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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Big Daddy Roth on January 26, 2012, 11:38:32 pm
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I did an AAZ swap into my syncro passat.
I have a Giles IP and I'm looking for a lift pump (not in tank). I removed the in tank pump, because it is the only pump the G60 used and the pressure would have been too high. What do you guys recommend?
Also, what's out there for injector nozzle upgrades?
thxs
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The one pump for the gm 6.5L is perfectly suited according to Giles. Rated for diesel and fairly low psi with good flow. Holley black is the only one I have heard guys running around here on diesels and it accually holding up. I am sure there are more as well. Holley black is $$$
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I left my high pressure pump in the tank and just used a holley pressure regulator to reduce the pressure down to 4 or 5 psi. In my opinion this was the easiest way to reduce the pressure down to a reasonable level and keep everything in place. I've had no issues with it(2+ yrs now). I think my in tank pump outputs around the 40 psi and the regulator reduces it nicely. Regulator is only, if I remember correctly about $43.
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I use petrol mehanical LP with fiber valve,good for my oil.
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you really dont need to upgrade your injector nozzles, these are NOT a TDI engine.. the nozzles in your engine right now are capable of flowing enough fuel to cut your pistons in half..
as for a lift pump, i had a low pressure in-tank pump in my mk2, but it kept giving me issues, so i took it out and went with a napa auto parts universal solenoid style fuel pump. its rated for gas, but ive been running it for years now, in 3 different cars, and the only issue ive had with it, was from having debris get in it from a dirty tank..
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I picked up a Mr. Gasket diesel pump on the weekend. Gonna put it where the fuel filter was (or fuel pump on vr6/16v).
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An awesome pump I have used on my old f250 is made by carrier. You can mount it in the engine bay or towards the tank and its a constant duty diesel pump that has no issue priming. Its low pressure as well. I have read that it doesn't like cocktails though.
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I'd like to put it in the engine bay, but the instructions mention that it should go close to and below the tank.
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I'd like to put it in the engine bay, but the instructions mention that it should go close to and below the tank.
The type of pumps that are most often used in automotive applications are better pushers than they are pullers.
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Mine cost me $80 shipped from a guy on another forum that buys them in bulk. Then about $10 in barbed fittings and sealant.
You can mount it anywhere, and its better in the engine bay because it has a see through plastic cover over an internal screen that you can see the fuel level. Its also beefier than that little mr.gasket pump.
I have them hard mounted with big rubber washers in the engine bay, through a fused relay and all has been well. Also know a ton of real world examples when it comes to the old f250s and using them.
If anybody wants I can take a picture of my unit.
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damac, please post pics and p/n of your pump.
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Giles said to me that the AAZ's OEM injectors are fine for whatever you can throw at it.
I had him clean & test/set my originals. I had planned on the Bosio injectors available from Kerma for the AAZ, Giles assured me they were overkill.
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Walbro fpr is made for diesel and is biodiesel ready. I think mine ran 100usd.
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Walbro fpr is made for diesel and is biodiesel ready. I think mine ran 100usd.
theres no way i would regulate 50 (digi) or 100 (cis) psi with a simple regulator.. is it made for such high pressure?
i deleted both pumps on my mk2, and installed a GM 6.5TD lift pump under the car where the high pressure pump once lived..
yes, i took the in tank pump out, and made a pump delete out of a piece of TYGON tubing..
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I left my high pressure pump in the tank and just used a holley pressure regulator to reduce the pressure down to 4 or 5 psi. In my opinion this was the easiest way to reduce the pressure down to a reasonable level and keep everything in place. I've had no issues with it(2+ yrs now). I think my in tank pump outputs around the 40 psi and the regulator reduces it nicely. Regulator is only, if I remember correctly about $43.
can you post a link for it?
http://www.holley.com/types/Fuel%20Pressure%20Regulators%20-%20Carbureted.asp
which one from above?
anyone try this> carter p4070 ?
i want to use the 2.0 slo fuel pump in my cabrio, although i already replaced it with a aaz fuel sender just cant stop the idea of putting it back and run a regulator trough it, my friend thinks the diesel density is different and thus it wont last long.
would cheapos like this work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-ALUMINUM-PSI-ADJUSTABLE-HIGH-FUEL-PRESSURE-REGULATOR-GAUGE-HOSE-RED-/170775144113?hash=item27c2fde6b1&item=170775144113&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_4049wt_1270
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Adjustable-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator-Chrome-Gauge-/190634926269?hash=item2c62ba20bd&item=190634926269&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr#ht_976wt_1037
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Please continue on about the lift pumps; I've noticed quieter clatter and slightly elevated operating temps with my new cocktail, so I'd like to find the cheap lift pump answer
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Here are a couple pics of carrier faucet pump. I have heard from multiple people that these pumps do NOT like cocktails and they are meant to be constant duty diesel pumps. This sucker has no problem priming the dual tanks on my old f250. Also didn't seem to pose any issues on the jetta during the short week I ran it on there.
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v44/kellyass/?action=view¤t=P2081358.jpg
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v44/kellyass/?action=view¤t=P2081360.jpg
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Please continue on about the lift pumps; I've noticed quieter clatter and slightly elevated operating temps with my new cocktail, so I'd like to find the cheap lift pump answer
the universal SHAKER pumps you get at the auto parts stores are fine for cocktails.. there are no rubber pieces in them, just some springs, a plunger, and a couple check valves..
ive been running one in my diesel for a very long time.. its just an electric fuel pump, meant to feed a carburator, but rigged up under my Jetta, and pumping diesel..
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Please continue on about the lift pumps; I've noticed quieter clatter and slightly elevated operating temps with my new cocktail, so I'd like to find the cheap lift pump answer
the universal SHAKER pumps you get at the auto parts stores are fine for cocktails.. there are no rubber pieces in them, just some springs, a plunger, and a couple check valves..
ive been running one in my diesel for a very long time.. its just an electric fuel pump, meant to feed a carburator, but rigged up under my Jetta, and pumping diesel..
what PSI is it pumping?
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Autozone. Com has a few different ones.. Around 4-7 psi max.. Sounds good! Is it OK to run about 5 psi @ my IP all the time?
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Autozone. Com has a few different ones.. Around 4-7 psi max.. Sounds good! Is it OK to run about 5 psi @ my IP all the time?
you can run like, oh, 30 psi safely to your injection pump.. i think thats what giles and tyler fed a pump with..
be sure it has a flow rating of atleast 15 GPH.
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What's the purpose of the lift pump if your IP is good? I thought you'd only want to use one if your pump isn't priming properly.
-Todd
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What's the purpose of the lift pump if your IP is good? I thought you'd only want to use one if your pump isn't priming properly.
-Todd
if you want power, then vacuum at the pump inlet is bad.. it makes the timing advance later than if the pump had pressurized fuel waiting for the vane pump to inhale..
basically, is it easier to suck fuel thru a 20ft drinking straw, and fuel filter? or is it easier to let the fuel simply flow out of the 20ft drinking straw, and be delivered to the pump, rather than be pulled to the pump..
you can STARVE the pump of fuel in the higher rpms, and with a lift pump, it doesnt happen. when the engine is revved up, the vane pump is making LOTS OF VACUUM, and it can aerate the fuel in the lines from vacuum. if you have a lift pump, and any amount of positive pressure, the fuel will NOT AERATE..
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Good info. Thanks!
-Todd
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Well I installed a lift pump off a Chevy diesel for $8 from the junkyard.. Ooo wee couldn't be happier! Bucking is gone, multiple great effects. Shoulda done this sooner or it should have come stock!
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So is there an upgrade for AAZ nozzles?
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Walbro fpr is made for diesel and is biodiesel ready. I think mine ran 100usd.
theres no way i would regulate 50 (digi) or 100 (cis) psi with a simple regulator.. is it made for such high pressure?
Walbro makes a line of lift pumps perfect for our application: http://www.walbro.com/producthlt.aspx
It's been mentioned here before, I don't think I'm the only one (planning to) run one. Mine was <100USD, but I ordered it so long ago I can't remember.
You won't need a regulator, ditch the tank pump if that's what you're talking about. It's likely to go, as all of it's rubber seals will swell with diesel (around here most/all diesel is B5 - 5% bio)
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giles reccomends the 6.5TD lift pump.. there around 50 bucks new, iirc..
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giles reccomends the 6.5TD lift pump.. there around 50 bucks new, iirc..
a 6.5 td what?gm ford? and does it just drop into the tank no modifications other than maybe different hose size?
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GM 6.5, it is inline not in tank.
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GM 6.5, it is inline not in tank.
you use the diesel sending unit without a in-tank pump, or a modified gasser sending unit with the low pressure pump removed.. and then you install the GM lift pump under the car where the water separator/high pressure pump used to be..
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Not sure if I'm over thinking this, but are you guys simply running them off anything that's showing 12v, including when cranking?
My only thought would be to wire the lift pump on a separate, custom circuit that was only live when the engine is running. Kinda like how a gasser fuel pump needs a coil signal.
-Todd
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I run a separate wire off of the 12v that the fuel seliniod gets. That way when the key is on the pump is on. I have it with an insulated pull apart terminal so if I wanted to run the stereo for 5 hours I can pop the hood and pull it off. I also have it fused, so I could pull the fuse as well.
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What's the purpose of the lift pump if your IP is good? I thought you'd only want to use one if your pump isn't priming properly.
-Todd
if you want power, then vacuum at the pump inlet is bad.. it makes the timing advance later than if the pump had pressurized fuel waiting for the vane pump to inhale..
basically, is it easier to suck fuel thru a 20ft drinking straw, and fuel filter? or is it easier to let the fuel simply flow out of the 20ft drinking straw, and be delivered to the pump, rather than be pulled to the pump..
you can STARVE the pump of fuel in the higher rpms, and with a lift pump, it doesnt happen. when the engine is revved up, the vane pump is making LOTS OF VACUUM, and it can aerate the fuel in the lines from vacuum. if you have a lift pump, and any amount of positive pressure, the fuel will NOT AERATE..
Sorry to bump this up again, especially on my first post!
But does having positive pressure at the lift pump not affect internal pump pressure and hence advance rates? Reason I ask is I'm running a 1.9XUDT 306 on WVO and something to get the fuel to the pump easier would be a great advantage!
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What's the purpose of the lift pump if your IP is good? I thought you'd only want to use one if your pump isn't priming properly.
-Todd
if you want power, then vacuum at the pump inlet is bad.. it makes the timing advance later than if the pump had pressurized fuel waiting for the vane pump to inhale..
basically, is it easier to suck fuel thru a 20ft drinking straw, and fuel filter? or is it easier to let the fuel simply flow out of the 20ft drinking straw, and be delivered to the pump, rather than be pulled to the pump..
you can STARVE the pump of fuel in the higher rpms, and with a lift pump, it doesnt happen. when the engine is revved up, the vane pump is making LOTS OF VACUUM, and it can aerate the fuel in the lines from vacuum. if you have a lift pump, and any amount of positive pressure, the fuel will NOT AERATE..
Sorry to bump this up again, especially on my first post!
But does having positive pressure at the lift pump not affect internal pump pressure and hence advance rates? Reason I ask is I'm running a 1.9XUDT 306 on WVO and something to get the fuel to the pump easier would be a great advantage!
you can feed the pump with 150psi to the INLET and not change the advance curve..