VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: e30vr6 on January 11, 2012, 02:48:02 pm
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hey every one. Just joined up this morning, iv had a mk2 jetta diesel coupe since august. i bought it as a 2nd car wile my e21 (320is) is off the road for a full turbo build. So far im loving the chassis, power has left a few things to be desired (haha) hopefully it will be a bit better when i figure out a custom intake and 2.5in exhaust, and possibly a guilles fuel pump.
Anyways enough talk on to the good part! The pics
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/DSC_0680.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/DSC_0679.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/DSC_0675-1.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/DSC_0672.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/DSC_0674.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/d60012.jpg)
And literally an hour after I took these pics I did the single round conversion.
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/DSC_0728.jpg)
Only done a few things so far, lots of maintance, sound system (deck and speakers might throw a sub in soon), momo steering wheel, and single rounds
To come in the next few weeks neuspeed springs some shocks (not 100% sure what yet) and more maintance
If any of you guys as an idea on how to set up a larger intake please feel free to post up!
(pic of my baby the bmw)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/1980%20320is/DSC_0082.jpg)
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Very nice coupe!
I still have to pick up the shell, but that's what I am eventually building too! A nice 2 door diesel Jetta.
Also really dig the E21 3-series, I love the '80s bimmers. I've had a few, '81 528i, '84 533i x2, '86 325i. What engine is in the BMW? 320, is it an m10b20 2.0l 4cyl? CIS or motronic? Very cool car.
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320is would be the 2 liter I6 no?
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Nice cars.
It looks like you either have a vacuum leak or a clogged CCV because of the oil that is coming up your dipstick.
This whole thread is good. Specifically the first post and the stuff on page 4 answers your questions about the air intake
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=4391.0
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Thanks guys! the bmw is a m10 1.8 (4 cylinder) running full cis
Could I get some more info on this clogged CCV? If only seen one vac line so far? Could it be the one coming off the valve cover? Or are there more?
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/burnyourmoney/d60012.jpg)
#1 points to the CCV. It's inside and built into the valve cover. You can clean it out with WD-40 or valsol or something similar. You can test to see if it's clogged by removing the hose just above it with the engine running. Be advised that some oil may spray out and speckle your nice engine bay
#2 is the vacuum line. It connects to the vacuum pump. Not sure if you know this already or not. Anyways, it likes to leak and if it does it will draw extra air into the engine which can cause it to puke oil. That green cap just above the vac pump is what I would check first. With the car running just feel along the hose or listen and you might be able to detect the leak.
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take the intake manifold off and clean out the CCV ports on it.. ive seen them clog before.. leads to oil out the dip stick..
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For the intake use a gasser manifold, preferably the one from the g60 corrado and an adaptor like this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1949/MkII_T_Body_Adaptor_to_3
or diy and then plumb from there. I like to use junkyard intercooler tubes and such because they're cheap and you can find bends that fit nicely.
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i like the pics taken at Steveston harbor....i used to work on a fish boat there when i was younger....might go down there in the next week ...just for the road trip...lol sweet cars as well lmao
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For the intake use a gasser manifold, preferably the one from the g60 corrado and an adaptor like this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1949/MkII_T_Body_Adaptor_to_3
or diy and then plumb from there. I like to use junkyard intercooler tubes and such because they're cheap and you can find bends that fit nicely.
why do you need a gasser intake on a n/a? that COMPLETELY gets rid of the CCV ports..
i never thought it would be worth it to add a gasser intake to a n/a...
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ok thanks everyone!
now questions. for the CCV on the valve cover, is there something so post to be there? iv taken the valve cover off to replace the gasket and it was just a threw hole. or is the ccv on the over end on the intake mani?
hey! Another stevestionite!
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That raised up section on the valve cover is suppose to be filled with a wire mesh type material. If it's straight through you will go through a lot more oil than if you had the proper one. The previous owner may have removed it to try and fix the puking oil problem.
Did you have a plastic piece under the valve cover that sits on top of the camshaft?
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yes the plastic piece was there. ill look again, bit if it has been removed anyone got a spare valve cover with the CCV they want to sell? haha.
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yup....PMing now !!! lol
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if the CCV ports are plugged in the intake, it doesnt matter what you do, short of venting to the atmosphere, will never fix your puking oil problem..
end of story..
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if the CCV ports are plugged in the intake, it doesnt matter what you do, short of venting to the atmosphere, will never fix your puking oil problem..
end of story..
Yup. Take off the other end of that hose and see what you can see. Have you looked for any vacuum leaks?
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alrightty! CCV ports cleaned with some wd-40. i cleaned until it was pouring out "gray" instead of black, idles ALOT better now. ill check tomorrow if any more oil is coming up the dip stick
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DID YOU SPRAY WD-40 DOWN THE INTAKE CCV PORTS!?
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For the intake use a gasser manifold, preferably the one from the g60 corrado and an adaptor like this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1949/MkII_T_Body_Adaptor_to_3
or diy and then plumb from there. I like to use junkyard intercooler tubes and such because they're cheap and you can find bends that fit nicely.
why do you need a gasser intake on a n/a? that COMPLETELY gets rid of the CCV ports..
i never thought it would be worth it to add a gasser intake to a n/a...
The g60 manifold has more ports than I know what to do with. I setup a g60 hockey puck on top of the g60 valve cover and it's good to go.
The runners are bigger and it's way cleaner to build an intake from as opposed to chopping the stock airbox and gluing some abs down over the middle of the engine. This way you can put the filter in the raintray, by the battery tray or anywhere.
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DID YOU SPRAY WD-40 DOWN THE INTAKE CCV PORTS!?
no..... just cleaned out the one on the valve cover.
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For the intake use a gasser manifold, preferably the one from the g60 corrado and an adaptor like this: http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/1949/MkII_T_Body_Adaptor_to_3
or diy and then plumb from there. I like to use junkyard intercooler tubes and such because they're cheap and you can find bends that fit nicely.
why do you need a gasser intake on a n/a? that COMPLETELY gets rid of the CCV ports..
i never thought it would be worth it to add a gasser intake to a n/a...
The g60 manifold has more ports than I know what to do with. I setup a g60 hockey puck on top of the g60 valve cover and it's good to go.
The runners are bigger and it's way cleaner to build an intake from as opposed to chopping the stock airbox and gluing some abs down over the middle of the engine. This way you can put the filter in the raintray, by the battery tray or anywhere.
yea, but the only gain you get from it on a n/a is just the ease of plumbing something..
the BIGGER runners are BAD for a n/a...
the intake velocity seems like it would be horrible.. did you lose a gob of bottom end power when you went to the G60 intake?
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That'd be like saying adding intake piping for a cold air pickup would loose low end torque? Because adding piping is effectively lengthening each runner by however much pipe you add.. For me, nearly 3 feet.
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That'd be like saying adding intake piping for a cold air pickup would loose low end torque? Because adding piping is effectively lengthening each runner by however much pipe you add.. For me, nearly 3 feet.
no.. maybe how you think about it, but no..
the runner is between the intake valve, and the intake plenum..
you are extending the plenum, not the runner..
im talking about intake runner velocity..
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Longer runner increases bottom end torque from what Ive read iirc.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3399/3507465026_874f1e7da9_z.jpg)
Like this engine.
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(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3399/3507465026_874f1e7da9_z.jpg)
Like this engine.
so that goes along side exactly what i was saying..
the shorter runners, with a BIGGER CROSS SECTIONAL AREA will make LESS TORQUE..
the stock intake has relatively long, skinny runners.. so the intake velocity will still be quite high..
the G60 has really short, really tapered runners.. G60 has the shortest runners out of any counterflow mani.. besides a TD manifold.
i mean, look at the gasser intakes, the digi/mk2 cis intakes have there runners coming out the BACK SIDE of the plenum.. the runners basically come off the plenum, pointing towards the firewall, and then dip down to the engine..
the G60 has them coming directly off the bottom of the plenum..
i NOTICED my torque soften up after i added my mk2 cis intake.. the runners on that manifold ARE bigger than a stock diesel intake, but not as big as a G60 runner..
so, i imagine that your torque would soften up even more going for an intake with shorter, wider runners..
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DID YOU SPRAY WD-40 DOWN THE INTAKE CCV PORTS!?
no..... just cleaned out the one on the valve cover.
Any updates? Did you try blowing air through the line into the intake manifold from the CCV?
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What CCV holes in the intake manifold are you talking about? The drain holes to evacuate oil or whatever into each intake runner? How in the world do you expect that them getting clogged up would effect crankcase ventilation? The oil vapor is is going into the runners at the top of the intake not those little drain holes. They just get rid of puddled oil in the bottom of the manifold.
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What CCV holes in the intake manifold are you talking about? The drain holes to evacuate oil or whatever into each intake runner? How in the world do you expect that them getting clogged up would effect crankcase ventilation? The oil vapor is is going into the runners at the top of the intake not those little drain holes. They just get rid of puddled oil in the bottom of the manifold.
mk2 intakes are nothing like mk1 intakes dude..
the mk2 intake uses a Y shaped breather hose, and the intake has a port between runners 1&2, and also a port between runners 3&4..
those ports/hose barbs often get clogged with crap, and then they are just plugs, not vents.
again, mk1 and mk2 manifolds are VERY DIFFERENT. the mk2 manifold runners actually un-bolt from the air box, if you didnt know..
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Update, there is still a bit of oil coming up the dip sick. but its wayyy less then it was. so i might go back in and clean some more. also going to run around with a can of carb starter to try and find out of there’s a vac leak. besides the line from the pump to the booster are there anymore? if thats the only one i may just replace it.
also finally getting some low's
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/91%20jetta%20d/DSC_0006.jpg)
(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/dirtjumper34/91%20jetta%20d/DSC_0007.jpg)
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NO! do not use carb cleaner on a diesel to find vacuum leaks! it will cause a run away.
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ok? what would you recommend?
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Also, unlike on a gasser, spraying for a vacuum leak won't show anything because whatever is sucked into the engine goes into the oil, not the intake.
Unless your car has AC, those are the only vacuum lines.
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ah ok. im still learning this diesel thing haha. no my car dent have ac. so ill just replace the hose. it looks kind of old and starting to crack at the bottom
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ah ok. im still learning this diesel thing haha. no my car dent have ac. so ill just replace the hose. it looks kind of old and starting to crack at the bottom
diesels are 100% different from a gasser..
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yes im learning that pretty quick lol
so another question for you guys. so far iv replaced valve cover and oil pan gaskets, all new glow plugs, air filter. is there anything else i should do as "preventative maintance" coming up with the new suspension its getting all new sway bar bushings, rear motor mount (has a nice clunk if i left off the peddle quick) new tie rods, and rear shoes.
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yes im learning that pretty quick lol
so another question for you guys. so far iv replaced valve cover and oil pan gaskets, all new glow plugs, air filter. is there anything else i should do as "preventative maintance" coming up with the new suspension its getting all new sway bar bushings, rear motor mount (has a nice clunk if i left off the peddle quick) new tie rods, and rear shoes.
how old is the timing belt and tensioner?
that is the post important maintenance item on the whole car..
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i was told it was replaced at 260,000 km but i don’t have a receipt for it. the cars at 348xxxkm now. So I was thinking of ordering it to. there is a local guy who rents out the lock tools.
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i was told it was replaced at 260,000 km but i don’t have a receipt for it. the cars at 348xxxkm now. So I was thinking of ordering it to. there is a local guy who rents out the lock tools.
so, even if it was done @ 260k, its still time to replace it, no matter what..
so, that would be my next action, is to replace the belt before it breaks and trashes your head/valves/pistons..
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cool thanks. ill ad that to my BMA parts order.
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do you know how to replace it, and time it right again? do you have access to the dial indicator required to time a Bosch VE injection pump?
replacing the timing belt on one of these diesels is much more in-depth than replacing the belt on a gasser..
you MUST KNOW HOW TO DO IT RIGHT, or you risk severely messing up your engine..
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the timing belt is not something i plan on replacing myself. it will be takin to my mechanic for that.
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the timing belt is not something i plan on replacing myself. it will be takin to my mechanic for that.
does he know how to do them correctly? ive even seen alot of PROFESSIONAL mechanics botch a timing belt job on a VW..
make sure he knows what hes doing, and has the correct tools to do it.. make sure he has the appropriate timing spec for the VW as well..
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yes.
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Understand ROR is passionate about these cars, but he is 200% on point.
The timing belt is super way over due by at least 20 thousand miles. If it goes it will equal catastrophic failure of your engine. I would not spend another dime on any other upgrade/part until that is done. I also wouldnt drive it unless its to the mechanic.
It should set ya back about 400 bucks. Maybe a little less. I also had my water pump changed whilst he was doing the timing, so it may be a little less.
Otherwise, it looks like you have most of the normal stuff done. I would drain the transmission and put fresh gear oil in there. Pretty much any fluid or lubricant on that thing with that many miles needs needs refreshing.
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Well come on guys, instead of belittling a person for not having the skills necessary.. why not put a pinch more effort in to it and teach them?
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=28
With this very well written article, you will be able to do the job yourself with confidence. I would not take it to a mechanic that is questionable on it. You have a better chance of doing it yourself. People make it out to be the most ridiculous thing ever, to be honest? It's easier than doing the timing belt on the 1.6-2.0L gas engines..
Here is why it is easier, everything has a lock. put the locks in, slide the belt on, make sure its still Top Dead Center, adjust the pump. Done. Its easier to me because you do not have to strain your neck trying to see down to line the marks up on the intermediate shaft and the crank shaft pullies.. ;)
You can do it yourself, read the article I posted. Understand what your reading then attempt it. If you have question of anything, get back to us here before doing it and we'll gladly help you through it. At least, I will :).
I would also recommend doing the water pump while you have everything torn down, for it to go later and then have to re-do all this would be a total pain in the rear end.
Goodluck!
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Since you don't have AC I would not touch the waterpump because it is very easy to get to by removing the alternator and bracket.
If you do decide to attempt the timing belt yourself (which you can do if you can do suspension) then I would first do some "dry" runs with the pump still installed and practice getting consistent timing readings at the current pump setting (it should be between 0.85-1.05mm).
Whatever you do, do NOT touch the starter until you have turned the engine over twice by hand to make sure nothing is hitting
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Alright to add to your post Tyler, I would give the waterpump a look over give the pulley a wiggle and see if the waterpump bearing is good to go.
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awesome thanks for the info 8v of furry,
also from what i have read the timing belt is "so post" to be done every 60xxx miles (not 100% sure on that) its been 85xxx KM so that's been 50xxx miles. but it will be on my next parts order to get done.
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also is it worth wile to rebuild the vac pump? BMA has a rebuild kit for around $20.
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Did it quit working? If not don't F with it. They do not have a high failure rate.
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The vacuum pump kit they are offering is likely for the old diaphragm style pumps. Yours is a rotary one and they almost never fail.
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this is the one: http://www.bmaparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1991-VOLKSWAGEN-Jetta--/l4_1.6l_diesel_iv-Engine&yearid=1991%40%401991&makeid=VOLKSWAGEN%40%40VOLKSWAGEN%40%40X&engineid=1283295%40%40JETTA%20%2FL4_1.6L_DIESEL_IV%40%40JETTA&catid=Engine&subcatid=Vacuum%20Pump%20Kit&mode=PA
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both of those kits are for OLD pumps.. like was mentioned..
you will be wasting money of you buy either of those kits..
like was mentioned, you have a vane vac pump, not a diaphragm vac pump..
those are NOT for a 91 diesel.. last time a diaphragm pump was used on a VW diesel was like 82 or 83..
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ah ok good thing i posted this BEFORE i orderd it haha.
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One note about waterpump pullies, I had a genuine vw waterpump on my diesel when I first purchased the vehicle, it was not leaking, but it had sooooo much play in the bearing it was chewing up the v-belt. Too bad I found this out after I purchased the serpentine setup :(
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One thing to add... It is worthwhile checking out the oil seals while you're doing the T-belt.
I did my T-belt on Jezzie, and the IM shaft oil seal failed about 15,000 km later taking out my otherwise new timing belt (not by breaking it, but severely oil contaminating it). There's only about 3 more bolts to replace the IM shaft oil seal at the same time as you're doing the timing belt.
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One thing to add... It is worthwhile checking out the oil seals while you're doing the T-belt.
I did my T-belt on Jezzie, and the IM shaft oil seal failed about 15,000 km later taking out my otherwise new timing belt (not by breaking it, but severely oil contaminating it). There's only about 3 more bolts to replace the IM shaft oil seal at the same time as you're doing the timing belt.
That and something I didn't know until too late. There is an O ring on the back side of that seal carrier for the IM shaft. It is very small but usually needs replacing too. I never installed one on my build and had an oil leak for 8,000 miles...then I figured it out and fixed it. FWIW the seal in the carrier is the same as the cam and crank seal.
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this cars FS
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=30754.0