VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: slavik19 on January 06, 2012, 09:40:15 pm
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hey guys i just joined the forums.
seems like a great place
anyway i have my first swap.
got some questions/problems need some help
first of all the engine runs fine,
only when i direct the fuel line directly into a bottle fuel of diesel or something.
no air bubbles
something like this look on the side youl see the line.
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3669)
next what i did was connect it to the original gas line, without removing any pumps or anything just discounted the gas CIS system and connected my fuel filter. got most of the gas out. the engine runs but poorly, gets air (bubbles) into the system, i can tell because i have a clear fuel line.
im not sure if im powering on the fuel pump or not?
how does the fuel pump work?
does it continuously pump fuel?
is it same to run it with a diesel injection pump? with a fuel filter in between off course.
wiring: very simple so far. i have 1 wire coming from the ignition coil to the injector pump. that works fine.
glow plugs, ill figure out a manual system.
oil pressure and coolant temp: ok i need help with these.
oil pressure sensor on the cylinder head on the side of the transmission?
connect the blue wire?
im just not getting any kind of signal on my speedo, how can i test it?
coolant temp sensor? which one do i need? its all different. there is like more the one sensor on the 2 different coolant flangs?
i just want my gauge to work on my cluster. so i can keep an eye out for the coolant and oil pressure.
which one do i need to connect to make that work?
also how can i test it?
for right now that it.
my custom non ac bracket;:
me and my dad built it out of a AC bracket, what do you think?
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3670)
some pics:
messy work place :-X
already have single round set up
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3527)
mounted the 5 speed:
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3529)
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If the fuel pump runs fine from a bottle and not fine from the cars fuel lines you definitely have leaks somewhere. Either that or the main seal on your pump shaft has gone bad.
The oil pressure sensors should be the same wire as before, whichever came off the sensors on the gas motor should go to the sensors on the diesel motor.
For the coolant sensor it should be a two wire plug that would have connected to the front coolant neck of the gas motor.
When you say signal on the speedo, what do you mean exactly? there is no power at all? or just no temp gauge readings?
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my gas engine has something different it has 2 sensors on the front coolant flange they are diffrent kind of connectors. ill have to take a picture and it looks like the oil pressure sensor is on the front of the cylinder head on the gas engine. diesel on its on the side.
alright guys i figured it out. thanks for everyone's help.
no more air bubbles.
deleted the high pressure pump or what ever it was.
kept the in tank pump all wired up. kinda usefull. shorted the fuel pump relay and made a plug in wire for on or off.
runs okay now.
i have half of tank of gas and half a diesel.
my mistake i thought there was much less gas inthere. put five gallons in and its almost full.
what should i do?
i guess thats why it runs rough right now. but hey it runs.
hocked up the radiator and overflow tank. put water in it. how can i test to see if my water pump works?
also i took pictures of the sensors, can you guys help me figure out which is which?
pictures:
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3674)
before;
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3675)
after:
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3676)
in tank fuel pump. now i know how it works and how the level works and all.
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3677)
buy the end of the day it runs!
sensors:
Coolant temp? sender?
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3671)
the one on top is oil pressure and the two on the coolant hose are more temp sensors?
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3672)
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that temp sensor on the front coolant neck is not a temp sensor, its a fan thermo switch. those are only found on TD cars. so that neck came off a mk1 TD..
take your temp gauge connector, and cut it off, fold the ground wire away, and put a female spade on the yellow/red wire, then hook it to either one of the TINY coolant temp senders on the SIDE coolant neck..
if you have any specific questions, let me know, i just did this swap a week ago..
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not fan thermo switch... its a ac cut off switch for if it overheats.. it kills the ac... any diesel with ac after 81 has it..
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Five speed makes it kinda bearable, but the mk2 shell was so much comfier. I did the same thing awhile back
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19324.0
(http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/219/img4672mk7.jpg)
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damn you, i want your front clip.. ;D
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hey guys i figured everything out. well the wiring i was looking to hard. and at the wrong harness. got my oil pressure coolant temp and alternator wires hocked up and working! got all the gas out and put 5 gallons of diesel in her 8)
Five speed makes it kinda bearable, but the mk2 shell was so much comfier. I did the same thing awhile back
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19324.0
(http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/219/img4672mk7.jpg)
love the front grill already got a round rad support and lights like your and a cheap ebay badgelss grill.
hey how do i tell if my is a perreli edition? i have the same seats and the wolfsburg emblem on my fender sunroof small bumpers and its a 86. no p slots tho:(
are you swapping a diesel into yours?
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hey guys i figured everything out. well the wiring i was looking to hard. and at the wrong harness. got my oil pressure coolant temp and alternator wires hocked up and working! got all the gas out and put 5 gallons of diesel in her 8)
Five speed makes it kinda bearable, but the mk2 shell was so much comfier. I did the same thing awhile back
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=19324.0
(http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/219/img4672mk7.jpg)
love the front grill already got a round rad support and lights like your and a cheap ebay badgelss grill.
hey how do i tell if my is a perreli edition? i have the same seats and the wolfsburg emblem on my fender sunroof small bumpers and its a 86. no p slots tho:(
are you swapping a diesel into yours?
that car is ALREADY a diesel.. the swap already happened.
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yes justread his thread wish i found it earlier. its the same exact thing im doing
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love the front grill already got a round rad support and lights like your and a cheap ebay badgelss grill.
hey how do i tell if my is a perreli edition? i have the same seats and the wolfsburg emblem on my fender sunroof small bumpers and its a 86. no p slots tho:(
are you swapping a diesel into yours?
pirellis had this interior
(http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/597/img4675ki4.jpg)
and then it had the RD(?) hi comp. engine, along with the wheels. pretty sure they only came in atlas grey.
liked it lots like this though...
(http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/606/img5773.jpg)
fired the glow plugs by the push button in the dummy switch just left of the radio. don't wanna leave
those puppies on... :P
(http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/2200/img8049.jpg)
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yeap have the same seats the RH motor but no wheels.
ill be making a trip to homedepot and napa or advance soon for the glow plug set up.
what kinda of transmission?
mine seems like its to low of gearing. first almost seems like im in second or something when starting off.
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what kinda of transmission?
mine seems like its to low of gearing. first almost seems like im in second or something when starting off.
Can't be, all of the vw 020's are the same 3.45 first gear. Different R&P ratio, but it doesnt make too much a difference. You probably have a close ratio transmission in that car.
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what kinda of transmission?
mine seems like its to low of gearing. first almost seems like im in second or something when starting off.
Can't be, all of the vw 020's are the same 3.45 first gear. Different R&P ratio, but it doesnt make too much a difference. You probably have a close ratio transmission in that car.
im not sure.
lower numbers lower ratio?
i bought a ASF tranny.
ASF, AON, ACN, ACL (8v) 3.67 3.45 1.94 1.37 1.03 0.75
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lower numbers the longer the gear, and lower too yes.
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Slav: make sure whatever switch you use for your glow plugs is rated at least 50 amps. You really should fuse it for the same 50 amps as well. Otherwise, you will run the risk of things getting hot real fast. Too fast.
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Slav: make sure whatever switch you use for your glow plugs is rated at least 50 amps. You really should fuse it for the same 50 amps as well. Otherwise, you will run the risk of things getting hot real fast. Too fast.
alright cool
50amp switch 4 guage wire and a solenoid of some kind. ill figure it out
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You dont have to, its already been figured out.
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28
Also the code on your transmission is located on a flat rectangular spot on the housing that you can see by getting down to ground level in front of the car, and lookin at the trans.
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You dont have to, its already been figured out.
http://vincewaldon.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=30&Itemid=28
Also the code on your transmission is located on a flat rectangular spot on the housing that you can see by getting down to ground level in front of the car, and lookin at the trans.
cool thanks and i have the ASF code
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Nice. Same one I have.
Great on the interstate. I can do 70 easy if I want to, but I usually chill at 65.
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Nice. Same one I have.
Great on the interstate. I can do 70 easy if I want to, but I usually chill at 65.
thought you had an ECOdiesel? they have AVX trannies..
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alright thanks.
i was getting worried i wouldn't get it up to 70
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Nice. Same one I have.
Great on the interstate. I can do 70 easy if I want to, but I usually chill at 65.
thought you had an ECOdiesel? they have AVX trannies..
They do, but I snagged an ASF out of a Golf that had 112k on the odo about 8 months ago from that VW junkyard up in Dade City. I changed it when I put the lightweight flywheel and new clutch in it. I still have the AVX sittin on the floor of my "workshop" as back up or trade material.
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lifted the head today. put some gasket maker stuff where it was leaking. will test tomorrow.
meanwhile made this mount.
(http://forums.ncdubs.org/picture.php?albumid=399&pictureid=3679)
got the coolant hoses figured out and removed engine ecu and engine harness.
also got another question what are all the vacuum lines for? are they even needed?
i feel like taking it all out
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lifted the head today. put some gasket maker stuff where it was leaking. will test tomorrow.
Slavik, just to clarify-
do you mean you removed the valve cover and applied some gasket maker ?
or do you mean you removed the valve cover and head bolts, and then applied gasket maker to the head gasket area ?
just kinda curious is all
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lifted the head today. put some gasket maker stuff where it was leaking. will test tomorrow.
Slavik, just to clarify-
do you mean you removed the valve cover and applied some gasket maker ?
or do you mean you removed the valve cover and head bolts, and then applied gasket maker to the head gasket area ?
just kinda curious is all
removed headbolts, lifted the cylinder head. (where the headgasket is) and applied gasket maker.
not leaking no more.
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Those head bolts are "stretch" bolts and not supposed to be re-used/retorqued. Or did you put in new head bolts too ?
You wouldn't be the first man on the moon if you re-used the head bolts.
I'm sure others have done it by not knowing the specs.
It probably compromises the longevity sooner or later.
That was pretty ambitious and daring.
I hope it stays okay, keep us posted.
Thanks
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Those head bolts are "stretch" bolts and not supposed to be re-used/retorqued. Or did you put in new head bolts too ?
You wouldn't be the first man on the moon if you re-used the head bolts.
I'm sure others have done it by not knowing the specs.
It probably compromises the longevity sooner or later.
That was pretty ambitious and daring.
I hope it stays okay, keep us posted.
Thanks
i reused the headbolts.
no torque wrench
shoot should i replace them? has anyone head problems?
i guess if it starts to leek ill replace them.
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Since you re-used the old head bolts , and didn't torque + yield on install ,
would predict you will have many problems with it in less than 500-1000 miles.
If you wait until that point, you'll be buying a headgasket too - maybe more.
If you get new bolts now, use the proper tightening pattern, tightening sequence, torque specs, yield specs -- i think you'd be okay. In other words - redo it by the book specs. :)
Were your head bolts an allen head or triple-square 12points ?
Allen heads usually indicate an 11mm engine.
Trip-Sq 12's usually indicate a 12mm engine.
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When / If you get new bolts -
you will see the old bolts have been stretched longer, than the new bolts will be.
The more they get stretched, the less integrity they have left.
If you torque them a second time (re-use them) and do the yield turns - you are really dancing on the line of destruction by stretching them even more.
Unchartered territory, and not in the design.
If you don't do the proper pattern, sequence, torque values, the gasket will fail sooner than later. Anything past 1000 miles would be a miracle.
23-25:1 compression ratio
400-500 psi per cylinder
this aint gasoline brother ;)
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If you don't do the proper pattern, sequence, torque values, the gasket will fail sooner than later. Anything past 1000 miles would be a miracle.
Thought i might should say to clarify,
i don't just mean your leak will start again -
i mean a car that will no longer run.
just trying to help you from damaging or disabling your machinery.
fwiw :)
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thanks for the help
i used proper pattern and they are pretty tight.
got a bently.
but ill get new bolts man.
thanks for your help. i appreciate it.
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will these work? this guy is in charlotte i can pick them up.
http://www.westportparts.com/068103384AHeadBolts.htm
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That's one of Prothes / Hans websites.
Most of his stuff is absolutely bottom of the barrel quality.
Not ALL of it - but Most of it.
None of it is name brand.
Hence why he is a few dollars cheaper on some parts.
His bolts are probably suitable.
But to be completely honest - i would pay $5-$10 more from a better source. I wouldn't buy your vac pump kit there either.
Any part of the car that can leave you stranded or damage your machinery if it fails, or is complicated labor - most of us will not buy those pieces from him.
90% of his stuff you can get top quality brand name instead for same or lil bit more, sometimes even less, from proper channels.
Gear shift knobs, relay ball shafts for mk2, locking fuel caps, coolant expansion tanks, some things of that nature - he is good for.
His radiators and turbo downpipes are pretty good and real good value.
His pistons have been found acceptable, but the rings are lacking.
Fuel filters, air filters, timing belts, injection pumps, critical mechanical parts - he|| no. Some of those parts i have tried myself, some i have seen/inspected (cheap is usually cheap), and some there have been numerous horror stories about.
AutohausAZ and RockAuto are your friends.
Become fluent with their websites and offerings.
Use CarQuest on emergency items, and try to make a good friend with someone there and you'll get AhausAZ type prices on Worldpac items.
ALWAYS a good idea to ask others advice first before buying any part from Pete Rothenbacher Enterprises in Charlotte/Matthews/Indian Trail NC.
Some things yes, a lot of things No.
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will these work? this guy is in charlotte i can pick them up.
http://www.westportparts.com/068103384AHeadBolts.htm
Were yours 11mm or 12mm ?
Up through 81 or 82 they were 11mm
Did you have allen head bolts or 12 point triple-square ?
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will these work? this guy is in charlotte i can pick them up.
http://www.westportparts.com/068103384AHeadBolts.htm
Those won't work. Neither will most of the engine products on that site.
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my bolts where triple square head so im guessing they are 12mm.
um wow yea his prices are kinda to good to be true.
dont know if i want to wait and order headbolts somewhere else.
kinda want to drive the mk2 already lol
his head gaskets no good either?
i bought my rebuilt gasket and seal kit from rockauto. rings from rockauto.
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OMG
Get the correct and quality headbolts. Get a good headgasket also. Get a torque wrench and do it exactly as the bentley says. germanautoparts.com is another good site to buy all this stuff from. I would get the head checked if I took it off by the machine shop. Have you changed the timing belt/tensioner also?
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That is Prothe. All his engine parts minus the pistons *take the rings off and install different ones* are not usable in my opinion. Search prothe here and see the results of people that are ticked off because of inferior parts.
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crap! i just remembered i have the cheap rings! >:(
looks like ill be rebuilding my engine ones again.
i replaced all the seals and gaskets and full timing belt kit.
this sucks.
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You can get Fel-Pro brand bolts/washers package from probably any of the auto parts stores same day or next day. Maybe $5 more than Prothe.
CarQuest can have WorldPac stuff the next day usually.
Not like there are no other "quick" options.
Worldpac is always european brands.
Try not to worry about what you've already done and installed from the big P. Just try to compare his price against AhAz and Rock from now on before you buy - and see that he is not such a good value.
Most of his stuff should be priced about 1/4 or 1/3 of what it is.
But 90% of it is priced very close to what good stuff costs.
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You can get Fel-Pro brand bolts/washers package from probably any of the auto parts stores same day or next day. Maybe $5 more than Prothe.
CarQuest can have WorldPac stuff the next day usually.
Not like there are no other "quick" options.
Worldpac is always european brands.
Try not to worry about what you've already done and installed from the big P. Just try to compare his price against AhAz and Rock from now on before you buy - and see that he is not such a good value.
Most of his stuff should be priced about 1/4 or 1/3 of what it is.
But 90% of it is priced very close to what good stuff costs.
this bolts okay?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=aebdnzemhjf12hngcdqzkub4&partnumber=068103384A
so AutohausAZ and RockAuto is where ill buy my parts now.
shoot torque wrenches are so expensive. can i rent one somewhere?
autohausaz has pretty good deals close to the cheap stuff.
ill be buying a new headgasket bolts and some other parts.
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Yeh those bolts from AhAz are good.
And with AhAz you get free shipping on orders over $50.
But, like i said before - it's usually 4-7 working days for the stuff to get to North Carolina. No probo when you can plan ahead.
You can use a torque wrench from AutoZone, Advance Auto, or O'Reillys - for Free. You have to put up a deposit - but you get 100% refund when you return the tool.
Here is another local option.
I was at O'reilly today and asked about head bolts while i was there.
FelPro was $25 a set
Since someone mentioned they thought OR's dealt WorlPac, i asked them.
They deal with IMC European supplier.
CRP headbolts $15 set
Meyle headbolts $13 set
3 days shipping from Pennsylvania to O'R (you pay ship)
And you'd have to pay tax at O'R
Total was about $20 for a set of Meyle in hand.
So don't forget about CarQuest / WorldPac
and O'Reillys / IMC
when you need good stuff quicker.
With CarQuest/Worldpac you pay no shipping and probably get parts next day. You do have to pay tax.
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Yeh those bolts from AhAz are good.
And with AhAz you get free shipping on orders over $50.
But, like i said before - it's usually 4-7 working days for the stuff to get to North Carolina. No probo when you can plan ahead.
You can use a torque wrench from AutoZone, Advance Auto, or O'Reillys - for Free. You have to put up a deposit - but you get 100% refund when you return the tool.
Here is another local option.
I was at O'reilly today and asked about head bolts while i was there.
FelPro was $25 a set
Since someone mentioned they thought OR's dealt WorlPac, i asked them.
They deal with IMC European supplier.
CRP headbolts $15 set
Meyle headbolts $13 set
3 days shipping from Pennsylvania to O'R (you pay ship)
And you'd have to pay tax at O'R
Total was about $20 for a set of Meyle in hand.
So don't forget about CarQuest / WorldPac
and O'Reillys / IMC
when you need good stuff quicker.
With CarQuest/Worldpac you pay no shipping and probably get parts next day. You do have to pay tax.
wow man your really help full thanks i feel like i own you something in return.
i think im going to take advantage of the free shipping and buy new OEM bosh glow plugs
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started it again today. leaking oil again.
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wow man your really help full thanks i feel like i own you something in return.
i think im going to take advantage of the free shipping and buy new OEM bosh glow plugs
Thats what the Really Righteous VW Diesel Owners try to do for each other.
Share info ideas sources and resources.
Go with Bosch Duraterm Gplug instead of standard Bosch Gplugs.
About same price usually, but newer technology.
Everyone is really liking them.
I'll see if i still have the AhAz link to them in a few minutes.
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Bosch Duraterm @ AhAz
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xy53vg45qgphpx55ubzaco45&pn=W0133-1632561,W0133-1633298,
I have bought them as low as 9.xx each before in other deals elsewhere.
But 11.xx is still a good price - with free ship.
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Your oil leak on the headgasket :
Is it around the oil return port at front center ?
Is it a new headgasket ?
They make a product called Hylomar to use as a sealant on headgaskets.
Paste and spray versions.
Also a copper-kote product in aerosol
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Bosch Duraterm @ AhAz
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=xy53vg45qgphpx55ubzaco45&pn=W0133-1632561,W0133-1633298,
I have bought them as low as 9.xx each before in other deals elsewhere.
But 11.xx is still a good price - with free ship.
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Your oil leak on the headgasket :
Is it around the oil return port at front center ?
Is it a new headgasket ?
They make a product called Hylomar to use as a sealant on headgaskets.
Paste and spray versions.
Also a copper-kote product in aerosol
alright thanks my dad is saying hold of on the plugs.
i havent checked all of mine i know at least 2 work.
bought a new battery today.
new gasket.
it was over on the front center. thats where i fixed it. it dont leak there. i cant find where its leaking from. ill look harder tommarow.
will regular gasket maker work? i bought the one from hans cheap parts place
http://www.westportparts.com/D176404A2RedRTVSiliconeGasketMaker.htm
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It won't work for long on a headgasket, or exhaust gasket.
Will work about everywhere else though.
The leaking is probably due to the way it was installed and/or re-installed without torqueing and the yield turns. And the old bolts.
The fibre headgaskets are fairly forgiving when all is done right, and with new stretch bolts.
You could still buy the hylomar spray or copper-kote spray at a parts store if you think it needs it.
2 good Gplugs will crank down to about 40 or 45* F outside
3 will crank down to about 30* F
4 will crank down to about -20 below 0* F
below that most need a block heater.
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On the glow plugs if you are short on cash you could always buy 2 and replace #1 and #2, as 3 and 4 are easy to get to and could be done later.
Hylomar is good stuff, other than that I would run it dry. Most on here do run the HG dry, I use the hylomar.
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On the glow plugs if you are short on cash you could always buy 2 and replace #1 and #2, as 3 and 4 are easy to get to and could be done later.
Hylomar is good stuff, other than that I would run it dry. Most on here do run the HG dry, I use the hylomar.
yea i found out 2 of them where bad. ones behind the pump so so hard to get to.
well replaced those they all work now. starts MUCH better.
i got a serious oil leek somewhere. little puddle formed overnight.
i changed my axle flangs they had those caps. i kinda tore them up alittle trying to take them off. what if its transmission fluid? how do i check?
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Do you mean these flange caps ?
(http://i41.tinypic.com/1zld7iw.jpg)
(http://i39.tinypic.com/206d5ab.jpg)
Those are called transmission drive flange caps.
About $2-3 each from WorldPac or AutohausAZ.
Think this is the WPac #
J800352306KAC
And this the AhAz or VW #
W01331643177KAC
You need to seal them in with Permatex 1B non-hardening sealant.
(think thats right number - its a small tube and dark brown sticky stuff)
The bore they go in has to be clean and oil free so the sealant will work/stick.
if those are busted or damaged or missing -
your tranny lube comes out through the holes and runs into your CV Joint/Boot. It will compromise the CV grease and eventually ruin it.
your puddle "might" could be your tranny lube.
You'll just need to get the car up on jackstands and find your leaks.
Usually works best to check at night with a flashlight or drop light.
Sometimes daylight hides things from us that we can see with artificial light in dark surroundings.
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thanks bud
will local autostores have them?
but ill will be ordering everything from az
i only get about 2 hours a day to work on the car.
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The only way you could get them local would be -
CarQuest / WorldPac
Oreillys / IMC
VW dealership
Its been about 18 months since i bought a pair.
had a he// of a time trying to look them up when i needed them.
I think VinceWaldon had to find the listing / part number for me.
None of the AutoZone, Advance, etc... had anything on them then.
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The only way you could get them local would be -
CarQuest / WorldPac
Oreillys / IMC
VW dealership
Its been about 18 months since i bought a pair.
had a he// of a time trying to look them up when i needed them.
I think VinceWaldon had to find the listing / part number for me.
None of the AutoZone, Advance, etc... had anything on them then.
ill order everything on az
will this work for the sealent?
http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=oculk2550mqvpcztazvq5fud&pn=W0133-1841140,
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I wouldn't use that, myself. Use what he says, Permatex 1B. Something with better tack to it. Perhaps Permatex Avation will work OK too. I don't care what they say, RTV isn't oil friendly. I avoid it unless you absolutely don't have a gasket. And then not on valve covers or oilpans... I would be worried that it would make that plug pop out of there
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AhAz might not carry the Permatex 1B
i've never checked to see.
The tube i have is about 20 years old.
AutoZone, Advance, Oreilly will have it.
The RTV is pretty much same thing as the other Red Silicone you bought.
I use that stuff to supplement gaskets or hold them in place.
1B is rarely needed, so get smallest tube.
But when its needed, almost nothing else will do.
Oil leak could also be valve cover if any of your studs might have unthreaded and stayed taller on your last Remove/Install - especially on the backside. just a heads up
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Baron-
I use Permatex 1B all the time- I love it. Only thing better is Hylomar in a tube, which seems almost impossible to get now. I hate RTV in any color. But just personal preference.
Rick
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hey guys im having some electrical issues.
ignition off turn light switch on speedo back lights works great.
as soon as i turn the ignition on speedo go out, no lighting the backlight and clock/mpg/temp MAF goes out. i just want the backlight so i could see the speed.
i changed the light bulb last night.
i checked the wireing today everything seems plugged in.
what am i missing?
so ignition on.
light switch on turn the backlight on speedo off.
illum switch works because its the backlioght on the tempo controlls work fine
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Thats a weird one.
1. Did they use to operate correctly before ?
2. Do you have a spare headlight switch you can try ?
85 86 87 and early 88 will work.
I wouldn't let the temp control backlighting eliminate anything.
If its not a problem with the headlight switch - then its probably a problem within the cluster. Which would mean you would need a replacement cluster.
You might can find someone on NCDubs website close to you that can loan you another headlight switch to try. Could also try taking your HLswitch out and spraying WD40 inside of it.
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Thats a weird one.
1. Did they use to operate correctly before ?
2. Do you have a spare headlight switch you can try ?
85 86 87 and early 88 will work.
I wouldn't let the temp control backlighting eliminate anything.
If its not a problem with the headlight switch - then its probably a problem within the cluster. Which would mean you would need a replacement cluster.
You might can find someone on NCDubs website close to you that can loan you another headlight switch to try. Could also try taking your HLswitch out and spraying WD40 inside of it.
if you are very careful, you can separate the 2 halves of the switch (rocker side faced up, terminals faced down when you finally separate the halves, make sure to pay attention to the sliders orientation too) and clean/lubricate the switch contacts and slider..
i gotta tap on my headlight switch sometimes to get my headlights to come on.. had issues with the cluster lights also, replaced the bulbs and they have been fine since then..
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Yeah, this switch was to blame for my tail light problem too.
I found a new one on the vortex for $12 shipped.
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My headlight switch had problems until I pried it open and sprayed wd-40 in there.
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yea it used to work good. i think
i just relized that its not counting my miles either. so weird like its stuck on 90494 for the past 30miles look slike it moves just a little.
prob need new cluster. time to hit up pull a part
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got it figured out. ;D
took like 4 hours for me to get to know how the wiring works in the car. bently was not useful. my cluster has different color wires.
used a lightbult pen thing. found the bad ground and re grounded it.
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another problem.
car runs "cool" no hot air. needle is about half way.
new thermostat and coolant?
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When you say " no hot air" you mean from the heater? Is the heater core bypassed?
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prolly gotta re-foam the heater box..
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When you say " no hot air" you mean from the heater? Is the heater core bypassed?
it is not bypassed.
got the coolant lines hocked up and everything. maybe i have them on backwards?
i have theone to the right going to the cylinder head (top side of engine) the other down the metal pipe to the waterpump
prolly gotta re-foam the heater box..
oh doesnt that mean it doesnt work at all?
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Congrats on fixing the dash lights.
Mk2 (especially diesels) are notorious for low heat output from HVAC.
Your Tstat and coolant are probably fine.
Most common problem is the blend door (flap) that diverts air to flow only over the heater core. It has foam to seal it to. Usually you have to take the whole HVAC box out and repair / re-foam the seals and stuff.
I've never done one yet.
But have one in need, and know of a few others that need it.
I've read of folks glueing or duct taping a cut-out section from an antifreeze jug over the door. Or just duct taping it entriely. Might be a walk through pictorial on Vortex.
There is a walk through DIY on odometer repair on Vortex too.
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http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2355434
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thanks guys im going to attempt to do it.
http://www.4130-products.com/step/odometer/index.htm
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rebuilt the vacuum pump.
works great now
muffler cut out pipe welded back on