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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: motomike33y on November 10, 2011, 06:59:44 am
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Just got it back, looking forward to installing and trying it this weekend. will report on initial impressions when I get it up and going.
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When i uprated from the 1.7 KY to a 1.9 1Y I had Giles do my IP . Truck ran great, as much power as a 1.6 turbo with more torque, little smoke and around 28 mpg [all with my foot buried in it most of the time]
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Wow. 28 mpg from a diesel pickup is pretty bad.
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to be more precise-(http://i356.photobucket.com/albums/oo4/lhomme/DSC00330.jpg)
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Keeping up just fine. The Vanagen diesel that I had got closer to 40.
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got the ip in, but had timing issues as noted in another thread. got it together now, so just need to get the lines hooked up, get power to it, etc. should be able to do it this next weekend
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got it on, got the timing sorted out so it will start, but still need to do some fine-tuning as it has to turn over several time before it starts. probably some more work next weekend before it goes on it's first road test drive. seems to run smooth
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got it on, got the timing sorted out so it will start, but still need to do some fine-tuning as it has to turn over several time before it starts. probably some more work next weekend before it goes on it's first road test drive. seems to run smooth
Let me know how you fix the starting issue. I'm having the same problem.
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still having problems, will have to start looking at my glow-plugs, etc. thought I could fiddle with timing but haven't been able to get it firing w/cooler temps
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What is the compression on this motor?
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haven't checked it in a couple years, but haven't driven it much either during that time. before I do too much more, I'm hooking up pimped glow-plug set-up, then I should go back to basics and check compression, etc. to see if I have any unsuspected issues(plus it will be easier hooking up glow-plugs if I take lines off, etc.) thanks for question
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As a side note, it started easily and ran well this summer before IP stated leaking, so no reason to check compression
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As a side note, it started easily and ran well this summer before IP stated leaking, so no reason to check compression
my audi would start perfectly fine in the summer, and it had ~200 psi compression..
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They almost never start well at 200 psi, however, it is quite easy to get an erroneously low reading if the motor is not hot and you do not have a good charger on the battery. They do start OK in summer at 250 and sometimes 225.
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this weekend my plan isto take out the injectors, check compression, verify TDC w/my flywheel marking, check glowplugs, and wire up 'pimped' system, then put things back together and see how it works-assuming the weather cooperates, etc. compression had been 400+ if I recall my last checking 2 years ago
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400 psi 2 years ago does not mean squat today. Run a compression check.
BTW just what do you think so called "pimping you GPs" is going to do for you? It won't make you motor start better. It won't make it run better. It might make it easier to troubleshoot a bad GP, but so what? Everything I drive is diesel and I only have to replace one a year or so. BTW Schmucks cheap ass wire with crimp on connectors is not going to conduct as much as that solid copper buss bar you guys seem to hate so much.
It is MUCH easier to check glow plugs with an ammeter. You don't even have to get dirty.
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didn't get finished. compression is 520, 600, 540, and 450. I like controlling the glow plugs because it used to have a hot start problem unless I used the glow-plugs. You may be right about the copper bar, but my other vehicle w/individual wiring starts much better than before. Timing seems to be spot on between TDC, my flywheel notch, the cam holder, and IP gear pin. probably no time now until next weekend
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My old f250 has basic spade connectors and it seems to do fine. I got a push button on it as well to stop people from driving it and to prevent potential glowplug controllers sticking. Don't have a problem with it, 10 seconds and I'm off. None needed when block is hot.
I have been lucky with my diesels thus far and never needed to use glowplugs when the block is hot, like say a quick stop in the store during winter. In summer I can let them sit for a while and come out and start them right up with no glowplugs due to heat soak I suppose?
When I last replaced my injection pump on the truck I found out the hard way that at its hottest the truck wouldn't restart. If I was lucky I could run around and jump in and get it started. But then I got stuck a few times when shopping for 20 minutes and I think the ip got even hotter due to heat soak and I was stuck over an hour. Got stuck a few times before getting another pump, that sucked :)
Do our vw 1.6 pumps suffer from heat soak?
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Heat soak, or hard hot starting is caused by a worn head and rotor. It is reasonably common on the pumps on the 6.2s, 6.5s, 6.9s and 7.3s. I think those were all DB pumps... it's been too long though.
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got the new wiring done for the glow plugs, spun the engine a bit to get fuel to the injectors, tightened the nuts, glowed for 10 seconds, and it started right up-temp in 30s then. today in 20's after night in the teens, glowed for 10 seconds and it fired right up. had to restart a couple times till things got warmed, but starting problem apparently with the glow plug circuit. have to get my switches finished up then try some driving to compare the new IP
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didn't get finished. compression is 520, 600, 540, and 450.
450 to 600 is quite a spread. 25% difference is way to high. Did you do it hot, with a good battery and a big charger hooked up?
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didn't get finished. compression is 520, 600, 540, and 450.
450 to 600 is quite a spread. 25% difference is way to high. Did you do it hot, with a good battery and a big charger hooked up?
to high?
8 ga wire from 40 amp relay, (one per glow plug), crimmped and sweated ring terminals.
MUCH easier to change one glow plug, not to mention, Confuses the flip out of folks when they see what lives in my rain tray.
I would love to know how one gets 600 on a cylinder, I am lucky to get 425! Majic, no? :o
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Yeah it may save you 5 or six minutes.
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600 psi sounds like something is coating the piston or valves and that is not a good sign. The spread here is too big as well.
I just came in from doing the compression check on my 1.6. I thought I had one that was worse than the others but as it turns out all 4 are right at 480. Love that. I was expecting to be low by more than 71 psi on one along the line. I just felt loose as I turn it over by hand.
Have you checked the valve clearance lately? That is the Bentley suggestion
Something is not right on those readings.
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With the stock wiring, the glow plug current path is up to the ignition switch and back to the relay, then to the plugs. On a vanagon, that's an extra 25 feet of wire and connections that can get corroded.
Not exactly. The low current side of the glow plug relay is run through the ignition switch. The high current side, which sends power to the plugs, is kept within the engine bay.
Excessive resistance on the low current side isn't much of a concern in all but extreme cases.
Chris
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for whatever the reason, after my rewiring the glowplugs and cutting out the relay,it starts easily now. I started driving it this weekend while I work on my tdi. noticed the power with the rebuilt pump as it accelerates more quickly(altho still a slug) and cruises at 55 easily w/throttle left. I've only put about 40 miles on set-up so I'll see how things go. I know difference is over 25% between cylinders, but I'm used to my rabbits having a hard time getting 300 psi, so I'm not going to worry too much at this point
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drove it a couple hundred miles during the past couple weeks. other than someone stealing my radio, I've been very pleased. timing is still a bit advanced from the sound, but it started right up even in temps in the teens(fahrenheit), and pulled strongly on the highway. several hills that normally would slow me, I now can accellerate from 40mph in 4th as I go up the hill. cruises easily at 60 on the expressway and gets there quicker in 3rd and 4th. put my first tank of fuel thru and only got 23mpg so wondering if that's normal-used to get 25-30 but for warmer weather and longer drives. still happy but need to try to get a lock for my door before I put another radio in
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Is this the 1.9 w/ 1.6 head?
Overly advanced timing can easily take a toll on mpg. I'd fiddle with it and try and at least get the same numbers you were getting in the summer.
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thanks-probably this weekend. think I need a new solenoid for my glow plugs as I forgot and left the switch on for a couple miles of driving last nite, now won't start this morn as solenoid won't work. had been going to do toggle switch that automatically went to off but couldn't find one. this reinforced my need for one.
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When I have had solenoids stick I tap them on the side with a wrench or something solid. Never had one not come back. Did you arc the contacts together?
Leaving it on for a couple minutes, I wouldn't think it would do that. Get a hammer on it.
I take it you ran one non pushbutton switch to the relay on the low current side.
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hadn't ever heard about that fix. I bought a relay for a snow-plow that functions the same way and installed it tonite. it works. I also bought a new switch that I'll put in this weekend that has to be held on. I had an on-off toggle switch with a light but unfortunately the light was covered when I installed it. that was to be my reminder to turn off power.
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Now you know why they came up with all those annoying buzzer/beeper sounds on the new cars. Your gaze goes out the window once the engine is running. Warning lights? What warning? I didn't see no warning, and now my engine is seized, overheated or I am out of gas. Great warning system there eh?
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got the relay in last nite and it started right up. even started this morn at 0 F altho it would die as fuel still thick. got it going within a minute or so tho. 10 seconds of glow is all I need.