VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: punkvideo81 on September 11, 2011, 06:25:07 pm
-
I usually find myself shifting around 3000 rpm's. If you were gonna take off in a hurry, how high of an rpm would you wind it out to? I was under the impression that your power starts to dip around 3500 rpm's or so...your input would be greatly appreciated.
-
Ive always heard 2500 RPM is the very best to shift at when driving normal, I think if your going hard i would shift about 3200 RPM.
-
It depends what gear you are going into. You'll need to play around with it and see what it fastest.
-
I guess I mean taking off in 1st and going from there. Where's the redline for these 1.6td's anyway?
-
4500-5k.. is redline.. stock pump and such..
my ahu with gov mod on rover pump pulls more then that though... revs like gas car..
when to shift is when it quits pulling IMO.. my 1.6 na, my 1.6td.. and my tdi-m have always been run good and strong...
-
I usually shift at about 3200 or so under normal driving, sometimes a bit lower (more like 2800) if I'm taking things easy. Jezzie cruises the best about 2200 RPM - she doesn't like being lugged around below 2K. If you drive her like that for a while she starts not running as nice after a while - I think it takes a certain amount of higher RPM running to keep everything happy with these engines.
You definitely won't hurt your engine by over-reving it. The 1.6 will go up over 6K happily, the injection pump however will start floating around then. Before any of that happens though the governor will cut out the fuel.
I take Jezzie up to 4500-4700 somewhat regularly (ie when I'm really trying to max her out, not under daily driving). She pulls fine all the way in to the mid-4's before she feels like she's falling on her face, but that's the governor kicking in rather than anything to do with the rest of the engine.
-
When I had a k24 I would shift as soon as I saw the boost drop off.
-running 25psi. probably 5-5.5k or so. maybe more, k24+gov mod+ custom boost pin + 1.6/1.9 head loves revving.
-
I try not to let the tach go under 2500.
Even if you rev high enough to have some power cut before the shift, at least you stay in boost. Shift early, lose boost, no power, long wait.... >:(
-
Thanks for all your replies. I forgot to mention this is a 1991 1.6td eco engine with a k14, giles pump, ic, and boost gauge seems to show boost to 20psi if that makes any difference.
-
ive pulled my car clear till the power goes flat.. like.. FLAT. thats around 5800 if i remember right..
my car revs like a gasser almost too.
usually, if i want the power, i would say that i pull it to atleast 4500..
normal driving, somewhere around 2k rpms..
-
Very unfortunately I don't have a tach, but I shift as early as possible. I hit 5th gear by 25mph, sometimes in traffic if we slow down to 20 I can manage to maintain 5th even. I just recently found a new miracle goo I was able to get for comparatively cheap, motorkote, and it cured alot of the vibrations from luggin 5th gear. Matter of fact I rarely downshift at all.. Makes for a slow ride but saves coins. I will string fourth till 35 if there's a hill
-
Kev, you and I both run these motors to the moon. ;)
I think it depends on your transmission more than anything.. If you have a close geared AWY transmission than you could pretty much shift at 2700 and drop to the next gear at 2600 and still be on full power.. With the longer geared transmissions there is a bigger drop between gears, and thus to hit 2600-2700 on a up shift, you'd likely need to shift at 3200 or possibly more.
I personally shift when she doesn't pull anymore.. But I've had 3rd gear to 115km/h, and I think that's above 55-5600rpm.
-
I have the same motor as you sans the giles and IC. I have swappped in an ASF tran and lightened flywheel. Driving regulaar I shift at 3k. When I'm in a hurry I wind it out to 4500. No issues. Boost is at 20psi when stompin the go pedal.
-
8v-of-fury - I have the ACN 5 speed trans. From the consensus, it sounds like winding it out to 4000 or so rpm's isn't so bad.
-
Oh it most certainly isn't bad. The gasser 1.6 and 1.7 (with proper valve springs) could spin 8k rpm. They are more or less the exact same motor as the 1.6 diesels.. Diesels have a slightly more robust bottom, so they'll take whatever you throw at em. ;)
-
Oh it most certainly isn't bad. The gasser 1.6 and 1.7 (with proper valve springs) could spin 8k rpm. They are more or less the exact same motor as the 1.6 diesels.. Diesels have a slightly more robust bottom, so they'll take whatever you throw at em. ;)
i think the cranks & rods are tougher on the diesel. and the pistons are most certainly much tougher than gasser pistons..
back in the day, people would slap a gas head on a diesel engine, and NOS the hell out of it..
-
Thanks for all your input everyone. I look forward to stretching my engine's legs a little more in the near future...then I've gotta get around to installing the VNT 15 I have sitting around for even more fun. Are any of you going to H20 int'l in Ocean City, MD later this month??? I'll be there.
-
Thanks for all your input everyone. I look forward to stretching my engine's legs a little more in the near future...then I've gotta get around to installing the VNT 15 I have sitting around for even more fun. Are any of you going to H20 int'l in Ocean City, MD later this month??? I'll be there.
you have a VNT 15 and its not on your car?!?
i woulda done it already. its gonna be night and day different ;)
-
I can't wait to get that VNT on, and a gasser intake as well. Should be a big wake up for it :)
-
its gonna perform as good, if not better than my engine, because you have a REAL TD fuel pump.. i dont, but i DO have a fresh, modified n/a pump..
-
REAL TD fuel pump.. i dont, but i DO have a fresh, modified n/a pump..
Same fueling capabilities. KEv, just put an LDA on your fresh na pump. BOOM a real TD pump appears out of thin air.
-
REAL TD fuel pump.. i dont, but i DO have a fresh, modified n/a pump..
Same fueling capabilities. KEv, just put an LDA on your fresh na pump. BOOM a real TD pump appears out of thin air.
I just went through this recently and found some snags in just putting my turbo pump on a good na body.
The delivery valves were smaller on na pump so the lines wouldn't reach the same?
Also as soon as I took the top off I found I could not seperate that governor arm from the groove like I have typically seen because it was one piece on the na pump, meaning I had to break it all down! Ok in the end I guess since I resealed everything but I wanted it to be a quicker project.
I had another working but leaking turbo pump so I took that whole assembly with the turbo top and distribution head and it seems to be working on the car now.
-
are you sure you dont have an aaz pump?
they have larger delivery valves
-
REAL TD fuel pump.. i dont, but i DO have a fresh, modified n/a pump..
Same fueling capabilities. KEv, just put an LDA on your fresh na pump. BOOM a real TD pump appears out of thin air.
wrong.. the n/a pump has a fuel limiter pin. ive made n/a fuel pumps into TD pumps before. i know what it takes..
gotta push that pin out of the way, or get rid of it all together..
-
if it is so easy, why not do?
So the TD pump that I have an N/a top on right now.. is better than a normal na pump?
-
REAL TD fuel pump.. i dont, but i DO have a fresh, modified n/a pump..
Same fueling capabilities. KEv, just put an LDA on your fresh na pump. BOOM a real TD pump appears out of thin air.
wrong.. the n/a pump has a fuel limiter pin. ive made n/a fuel pumps into TD pumps before. i know what it takes..
gotta push that pin out of the way, or get rid of it all together..
I have a bosch Ip rebuild for our 4cyls and it showed a map that the td pump had a higher potential fuel output. stock that is.
-
REAL TD fuel pump.. i dont, but i DO have a fresh, modified n/a pump..
Same fueling capabilities. KEv, just put an LDA on your fresh na pump. BOOM a real TD pump appears out of thin air.
wrong.. the n/a pump has a fuel limiter pin. ive made n/a fuel pumps into TD pumps before. i know what it takes..
gotta push that pin out of the way, or get rid of it all together..
I have a bosch Ip rebuild for our 4cyls and it showed a map that the td pump had a higher potential fuel output. stock that is.
because of the LDA..
un hook the LDA.. then a TD pump, and n/a pump would be exactly the same..
-
unhook the LDA? iirc, the whole top just pops off and there was no difference in the bottom of the pumps between na and td.. but i could be wrong.
-
unhook the LDA? iirc, the whole top just pops off and there was no difference in the bottom of the pumps between na and td.. but i could be wrong.
all i was stating, was that the pumps are identical with no boost applied..
-
are you sure you dont have an aaz pump?
they have larger delivery valves
No, I have multiple pumps from running vehicles that I compared, all the td's were the same and longer than the na?
I also forgot about that pin in the na body. I grinded it away with a dremel
-
unhook the LDA? iirc, the whole top just pops off and there was no difference in the bottom of the pumps between na and td.. but i could be wrong.
all i was stating, was that the pumps are identical with no boost applied..
Pretty sure that's right, the NA pump has a fixed stop pin inside while the TD pump has the "moveable stop" hanging down from the LDA. This has been gone over quite a bit 8).
EDIT: Not sure about how they look but IIRC the NA pump can pump just as much fuel as a TD pump, it will just smoke more until boost comes up......or you could advance the go pedal more and more as boost rises and get very little smoke.