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General Information => General => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on September 01, 2011, 07:18:14 am
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In the front doors!? Got a line on some decent 6.5" components.. Can i make it work??
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http://www.crutchfield.com/s_105SARS500/JVC-Arsenal-CS-ARS500.html?tp=106
Actually i like these ones better :)
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It can but you may not consider it pretty. I didn't do it, but my '86 came with them installed. The way they were installed would rule out many speakers as you need a very shallow surface mount and grille cover. I'll get pics when I get home from work.
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you can put 6x9s in your doors if you got wing windows, and the speakers are shallow enough..
now you gotta have something to power (amp) those speakers with.. bigger speakers distort alot faster than small ones..
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I would probably rather the JVC Arsenals I posted in the second post.
5 1/4" and a pretty shallow magnet. And 1" tweets instead of 3/4".
Get these and some 6.5" rounds for the back deck, amp all four. And then a folded horn subwoofer for the trunk.. Which can produce 108db on as little as 120 wattd rms.. A smooth 88db on just 20w. All with just an 8" woofer too. Frequencies between 20-250hz. All above 90db at 120w.
Money. :)
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LMFAO...
just checked the efficiency of the sub in my trunk..
86.3 dB/spl
if it were in a folded horn, it would make your ears bleed..
anyway, back to your car..
i wasnt suggesting that you install 6x9 speakers in your front doors, just stating that it CAN be done..
and honestly, idk that i would waste my time on a 5.25" speaker, because they are not much better than what the cars came with factory.. the 6.5" speakers would do better.
i would do 6.5" speakers all the way around, with a nice amp to push them..
then again, its all up to you..
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http://billfitzmaurice.net/autotuba.html
8" $40 woofer, with 20w rms could out do your 86db. And thats the point. small wattage, no draw on the electrical, cost effective.
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http://billfitzmaurice.net/autotuba.html
8" $40 woofer, with 20w rms could out do your 86db. And thats the point. small wattage, no draw on the electrical, cost effective.
sure, the $40 sub will do good, but its not going to make the same sound pressure levels as my $1200 sub with 1600 RMS
(no, i did not pay retail price for the sub, im not that rich)
yes, the amps do take a toll on my charging system, i really need to figure out a new way to drive the alternator. im thinking about a serpentine system, because i have everything besides the water pump pulley..
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sure, the $40 sub will do good, but its not going to make the same sound pressure levels as my $1200 sub with 1600 RMS
It'll actually be pretty damn close ;) :P
On average 10-12db hotter than most commercial 12" subwoofers with a fraction of the power.. seems a no brainer to me.. lol
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dude, no.. i cant see it happening.. your $40/20w rms sub will NOT shake your brain and eyeballs like my sub does.. it cant make the same pressure. there is not enough energy going into the sub to have that much energy coming out of it..
im not trying to get into one of those "my stereo is better" arguements, but i just dont see a $40/20w rms sub getting anywhere near as loud as the inefficient sub in the back of my car.. my sub prolly puts out about 130-135 dB.. but it damn near knocks the wind out of you also..
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I said 20w will keep up with most 86-89db.. The 120w rms that the speaker can handle will produce these numbers;
(http://billfitzmaurice.net/images/SPL/T18.gif)
What kinda of sub is this exactly? Which frequencies is it going to produce? above 100db from 40-200hz? I also don't wish to start an argument, but mostly anything over 105db is pretty much useless to listen to. And using 1600w rms for it? jesus christ.
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this is the link to it.. its a JL Audio W7..
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=40 (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=40)
its a high end/competition sub..
the highest frequencies that big boy sees is 80hz
yes, 1600w RMS..
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13.5" 50lbs and 1600w rms sweet baby jesus.
Jus sayin, for $200 total i have a sub that sounds just as good ;)
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I had 6.5s in my doors before. I mounted the speakers to the doors, not the panels. I also needed to trim the grill edges so they'd sit lower and the window cranks would clear them.
Cutting the holes was tedious, so it'd look clean, but it worked out. I used door edge trim to cover the cut edge, and it looked decent. I should have pulled the vinyl around, but it was an afterthought.
-Todd
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13.5" 50lbs and 1600w rms sweet baby jesus.
Jus sayin, for $200 total i have a sub that sounds just as good ;)
for a mere $40 more than you spent, i have a big (13.5" 50lbs and 1600w rms sweet baby jesus) subwoofer, along with a box that i built myself that cost nothing..
i did pay ~$300 for the amp tho..
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for a mere $40 more than you spent, i have a big (13.5" 50lbs and 1600w rms sweet baby jesus) subwoofer, along with a box that i built myself that cost nothing..
i did pay ~$300 for the amp tho..
I couldnt get it so cheap though.. sooo a voided argumentative piece lol
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http://billfitzmaurice.net/autotuba.html
8" $40 woofer, with 20w rms could out do your 86db. And thats the point. small wattage, no draw on the electrical, cost effective.
Spreading the word already.
Did you build one? I recall you asking me about it.
The distortion that the horn lacks makes it much more pleasant to the ears. At one point, I had six Tuba HT's in my rig. Sonic bliss. 500 people partys powered with less then 4k watts. Shame no one around town would pay to haul out cabs that huge.
My rabbit's going to get the larger, re-folded version of the AT that's in the plans. No idea what I'm doing up front. Wonder if I can track down some HL10c's for that build....