VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: osti on August 27, 2011, 08:09:56 am
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Ok it's been a while since I registered and was only reading so I think its time to post something about my car. It started life as a 1.6 Diesel. But when I got my hands on it was not enough to make a safe overtake and decided it needs a little extra boost. And I bought a KKK K24. I'll let the pictures speak instead of me.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0645.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0641.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0640.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0635.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0637.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0636.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0644.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0642.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0632.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0634.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0633.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0678.jpg)
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk224/itsomania/Golf/IMAG0677.jpg)
In the first few days I had to drive it only with the downpipe and no silencers and the sound was fenomenal. The interesting thing was that only with the downpipe the pressure was 0.65 Bar which is around 9.4 PSi but with all the pipes from the exhaust system connected the pressure dropped to 0.5 - 0.55 Bar (7 to 8 PSI) guess the backpressure takes its toll :-[ . But I'm happy with it for now.
So far the car has a Golf Mk3 GT rear axle with disc brakes and front Sway Bar from Mk3 GTI.
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silicone bad thing for those areas you used it... gaskets much better..
so you used copper for the oil line??
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I'm in the process of doing precisely the same thing, and noticed you used a 1.9 intake mani; did you grind out the head to fit those d-shaped ports, or just go with it as it was?
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:o he did use silicone in the wrong areas.. i would get gaskets in there ASAP.. silicone is more of a gasket helper, not a gasket all on its own..
he also DID use an AAZ intake mani.. not so good on a 1.6 head. really not that good of a manifold at all in general.. the AAZ manifold makes lots of turbulence when bolted to a 1.6 head..
:o :o he did use copper for a oil line :o :o that bugger is gonna crack and leave you stranded, or trash your engine..
you should get a proper VW oil line.. there cheap, and wont crack from all the vibrations of the diesel engine.. that copper could be used as a temporary line, but it will break eventually. no saying how long it will be, but it WILL BREAK. and when it breaks, its gonna dump all your oil, at a high rate of speed.. think of it.. a 1/4 opening, with 75 psi behind it.. it aint gonna be long before the engine is bone dry, and making new rattles that it never made before..
and wtf is up with those heater hose extensions?
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well, buy a gasket with a windage tray for your oil pan, and you can pick all that silicone out of your oil pickup when you remove the pan.
Also, way too much sealant for the intake, and you had a gasket next to it, it's fine to reuse those gaskets too..
but engine looks nice, also, turn that 8 into 18 psi and you'll see why we turbo these suckers.
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There were new gaskets on all parts I just havent shot them in the pictures and the silicone is used to help the gaskets. As for the copper line yeah I know what happens that was what I had left around in the garage, it will be changed soon. As for the intake manifold I did not had to grind anything except for the back of the manifold since the compressor housing was touching the manifold. And the intake manifold is from a 1.6TD not AAZ or at least that's what the man from who I bought it said.
After that said I'm thinking of putting a oil cooling system from Alfa 155 8v these come with a oil thermostat and bolts almost with no modifications on the stock VW oil console.
And the boost will soon be upped but for now there are other things to sort out. I'm looking for a air box out of SB but with no luck so far.
Oh and the heater hose extensions have been put in there just for temporary usage as I said there are a lot of things to sort out. :)
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It is absolutely a 1.9 manifold.
that's why you had to grind it..
But I dont think it would affect you TOO badly.
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It is absolutely a 1.9 manifold.
that's why you had to grind it..
But I dont think it would affect you TOO badly.
yup.. its definitely a 1.9 manifold.. look at the ports on it. there a different shape from the ports in your head.. the intake has D ports, the head has O ports..
we were NOT kidding, that DEFINITELY IS a 1.9/AAZ intake manifold.. they appear to be identical if you are ignorant of the differences.
it might not make much of a difference now, but if you ever want to build your engine for power, and longevity, that manifold would be one of the first things i changed.
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Damn I'm stupid I've been reading so much about the differences and havent saw the obvious oh well I'll look for another one.
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.. that copper could be used as a temporary line, but it will break eventually. no saying how long it will be, but it WILL BREAK. and when it breaks, its gonna dump all your oil, at a high rate of speed..
I wouldn't worry about it, there is so much cowboy gasket in that engine it'll destroy itself on oil starvation first.
Jeez - if you must use it, a light SMEAR.
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LMFAO.. cowboy gasket..
thats a good one..
yes, the silicone that squishes out of the joint, that stuff will fall off if it is actually inside of the crank case.. then the oil pump will suck it up.
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No worries the whole engine is being torn apart for a complete rebuild.
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.. that copper could be used as a temporary line, but it will break eventually. no saying how long it will be, but it WILL BREAK. and when it breaks, its gonna dump all your oil, at a high rate of speed..
I wouldn't worry about it, there is so much cowboy gasket in that engine it'll destroy itself on oil starvation first.
Jeez - if you must use it, a light SMEAR.
I'm sorry but do you even know how to use silicone? I don't want to start a fight but that silicone has to be there and don't worry it did not fell in the oil sump or got sucked in the engine. Cheers! ;)
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I'm afraid to ask, but what did you use for the oil drain line?
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damn these guys are beatin on you like a red headed step child..
don't worry about the silicone.. i put more than that every time i've done an oil pan (many, many fords) and i've never had one come back locked up.
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damn these guys are beatin on you like a red headed step child..
don't worry about the silicone.. i put more than that every time i've done an oil pan (many, many fords) and i've never had one come back locked up.
Fords dont care.. they will run with no oil or coolant most of the time..
VWs on the other hand, they care very much..
silicone is NOT bad for your engine if you use a light smear.. theres no reason for it to squish out of any joints..
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OK I'm explaining it once only the silicone is used to help the gaskets seal better. And YES there are new gaskets anywhere it might look like its too much but it is just the right amount it is left to dry a little and then it anything was fastened lightly so that it can dry more and after 10 hours all the things were fastened as they should be. With a torque wrench.
About the oil drain pipe the core is teflon with braided steel on the outside and something between them with inner diameter about 12 or 14mm I don't remember right now, there are no sharp turns in the drain pipe just a light curve when it connects to the oil sump.
And that's about all the whole conversion was on a very tight budget, everything including the turbo was $196. Its pretty good for a lunch money ;)
So no worries I'm just sharring my experience if someone does not like it, well ok it does the job for me and that's all I need. I don't mind about the beatin wkdingery it's a forum after all and everybodys free to saw whatever they want.
;)
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still dude, thats WAY too much if you are actually using gaskets.. you need a LIGHT SMEAR.. that is a FULL BEAD.
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I like using that copper gasket spray on all gaskets ever since I initially tried it years ago on an old 2 stroke dirtbike where the surfaces weren't perfect and previous top end gaskets would bubble. So much easier to work with to.
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fords require silicone.. helps them float when on their roof.. :-*
i use the black never hardening tar stuff permetx (sp??) sells.. wish i had the jar in front of me.. avaition something or another... works well to tack the gasket into place.. seals good.. fills any fine imperfections.. i use it on paper gaskets.. intake, old waterpump (metal so much better if you have though)type of things...
if using for a gasket helper ill live with it.. i was worried you did the ford thing and only used silicone.. newer vw does too.. just these old things.. they seem to dislike it..
gm makes a hell of a glue together engine sealent i prefer to use vs permetex by the way.. it uses one of those big silicone squirters like your doing construction work in your bathroom.. it dries faster, is less messy.. and i have never seen it spring a oil leak like i have seem with your adaptation of gasket helper.. yes ive seen silicone spring oil leaks at the oil pan with the gasket... but the gm stuff is like $15 for a quarter of the size of household silicone.. but works so good its worth the price.. ive never had to reseal one 2x..
i also use the copper spray.. i use it on metal gaskets.. aka intake manifold.. headgaskets for tdi and such.. works very nice..
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CURIL T!
chris, you coat tdi headgaskets? any reason why? neither myke or I have had a failure using a dry gasket. In fact, just threw together a 1.8t passat, headgasket was dry as a bone, I'm talking rub your finger across any part of the head/block and it's clean/dry. that's how I always do it. Did it on my franken td as well.. as well as countless others..
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Thanks for sharing. You will have to forgive these guys, they mean well. They are VERY passionate about these cars, and really just want you to get the best experience out of your VW.
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Since when did all the a$sholes from the vortex come over to our humble forum?
Clearly from the pictures he let the silicone almost cure before he installed the pieces.. They are up on a bench, not down under the car with him. Plus he stated he let it cure before he torqued.
I see nothing wrong with using silicone on new gaskets, just a safety measure. If people didn't use a siht ton of it, do you really think they'd still be selling it?
Who cares about the aaz manifold?? I don't see it as a problem unless he is planning on 20+psi regularly and ridiculous power.. for anywhere near stock i doubt the engine even notices..
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ever since the subaru headgaskets i use the stuff nathan... after 3 sets.. trust me if you own subaru only buy parts from stealership.. i did not wanna chance set #3 so i used the stuff.. its just a tacky spray.. and i figured if i did 20+psi on boost a little added protection good.. :D does not hurt.. and never know may help the aluminum from corroding down the road around the water jackets.. mine had slight pitting..
yes there is some haters who posted.. LOL.. i thought he did not use gaskets at first.. why i said.. ok ill live with that when he said he used both.. :D even though ive seen people do the both on vw and they tend to leak oil after a while.. why.. no idea.. they just do..
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Thanks for sharing. You will have to forgive these guys, they mean well. They are VERY passionate about these cars, and really just want you to get the best experience out of your VW.
its more down to that jeremy ^ ^ ^
everything i pointed out, is some point of possible future failure..
the silicone, if you use ungodly amounts of it, ive seen engines grenaded from oil starvation. care to take a guess why? yup.. from silicone bits blocking the oil pump pickup..
and his copper oil line.. its got fail written all over it. i know what happens to copper tubing when subjected to the vibrations of a diesel.. IT CRACKS.
and when that copper line cracks, hes gonna lose all his oil in a HURRY. it might be fine if he catches it in time, but more than likely, it would be missed until its too late, unless his buzzer works, and he has a gauge that he pays attention to..
dude, im really not trying to flame you, promise.. just want you to be able to drive that car for a good long time.. and the way it is set up, that wont happen.
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Oh chris, you reminded me that there are other cars than german ones, and that you actually subject yourself to working on them. haha.
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sadly the vws i work on do not break often enough to keep me with $ in pocket.. ;D fords do... :P