VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: gldgti on August 09, 2011, 09:21:26 pm
-
I wish I had them to give you guys - but I'm just looking for some! I am midway through rebuilding a 1Y for my wifes '91 cabrio, and I've got the head fully dis-assembled.... while its all apart I'm thinking "what can I do to make it better without too much trouble".
I've totally degreased the head casting I've been looking at the ports.... and basically I reckon they look pretty good.... I mean, we all know the 1.9 head flows much better than the 1.6 head, but could I make it any better with only a small injection of effort?
The car is only going to be running a T2.... albeit with the original 1Y intake manifold, so it should have HEAPS of torque at low rpm, and with the t2 i'm not expecting more than 100hp.
Just wondering if anyone can vouch for porting giving decent increases on the 1.9 head - and if so, where do I start. At the moment all I can think is that if I'm running the T2, porting wont give me anything at all... anyone agree?
Cheers!
-
I did mine whilst it was stripped, I think it seems much better as a result.
No massive amount of material removed just matched the ports to the manifold.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/Golf%20in%20progress/Engineandgearboxinpaint004.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/Golf%20in%20progress/P1020615.jpg[/img[img]http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr281/regcheeseman/Golf%20in%20progress/enginebits002.jpg)
-
damn thats a lot of material there to remove, if u want a quick easy port job that will help a lot, open up the head around the valve seats, thats a really sloppy area, and they say the most important part in porting is an inch before the valve and an inch after. and then gasket/port match for smooth transitions.
-
I did some porting here
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=26175.0
-
thanks guys, i might take a look at the exhaust port near the valves.
cheers!
-
I would do the intakes too. There is a sharp ridge about 2cm in from the seat on the floor side that could use some shaping.
-
check out the ports on this freaking that, they are huge!!!
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=11698.0
-
check out the ports on this freaking that, they are huge!!!
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=11698.0
i would expect nothing less from Dave tho..
-
check out the ports on this freaking that, they are huge!!!
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=11698.0
i would expect nothing less from Dave tho..
yep, he put some amazing r&d into these engines, especially with this head porting, he also had some kind of indent he put into he deck which really helped flow, it was never really discussed very much on here tho, i'll have to dig through some more old threads... like i always do haha
-
make sure you are not gasket matching the head. you want to port match the intake to the head you also want the cross sectional area to decrease as you approach the valves, not increase. increasing the area slows the air velocity.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/junk/gasketporting.jpg?t=1312825257)
my $0.02
-
make sure you are not gasket matching the head. you want to port match the intake to the head you also want the cross sectional area to decrease as you approach the valves, not increase. increasing the area slows the air velocity.
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/junk/gasketporting.jpg?t=1312825257)
my $0.02
or port them both to match the gasket
-
yeah for a smooth transition but take the velocity of the air particle, you slow it down and then speed it up.
look at race applications, from the plenum to the valve the cross sectional area decreases (increasing velocity), it doesn't increase then decrease....
your effectively doing this:
(http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d101/keatonstanley/CDF%20intake/Clipboard01.jpg)
and when your valves are open for a limited time.... then its kinda important
-
i understand that, but if the intake runners are opened up to be equivalent to the gasket size, along with the ports, the only point velocity would change would at the bowl/radius down into the valve seat, the valve seat being the smallest part, it wouldn't be like you picture above, it would be just the right half of your picture.
-
Isn't the exhaust port suppose to be stepped though (manifold bigger than head opening)? Or is that only gassers?
-
Isn't the exhaust port suppose to be stepped though (manifold bigger than head opening)? Or is that only gassers?
that's to prevent reversesation of exhaust gases during valve overlap.
-
well hopefully the lack of overlap with this stock cammed 1.9 wont cause me any probs :-)
so got busy today
carbide rotary burr tool....
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010478.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010476.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010477.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010483.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010485.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010486.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010484.jpg)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010487.jpg)
The 1Y block - king of versatility it would seem :-)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u139/gldgti/P1010479.jpg)
-
Looks pretty good. I'd probably pull the exhaust studs and give that area a nice sanding.
Are you rebuilding the head or just freshening it up?
-
About the same here. I didn't port match, just opened up the head around the valves and ports. Just feel around with your finger, you'll know immediately where to take off material.
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00083.jpg)
[(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00082.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00055.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/mccavittj/DSC00056.jpg)
-
Looks pretty good. I'd probably pull the exhaust studs and give that area a nice sanding.
Are you rebuilding the head or just freshening it up?
just a freshen up really - the engine was a sort-of-freebie, complete but had come from the UK to australia and had been left out in the weather a bit - inside it was all choked up with black gunked up old engine oil, so this has really been a process of take everything apart and clean it (to make sure the oilways arent blocked) and put back together.
I've reassembled the head today with a set of new lifters and I hand lapped the valves in but apart from that and hte mild port job its just going back together - measured the valve guide wear - well within tolerances on the intake and still reasonable on the exhaust, and the rest of it all looks pretty good.
the block is in much the same state internally - black gunk everywhere.... anyone got any advice for easily cleaning it?
-
just a quick jobbie that will help a lot, i think the most important part of this the valve seat/bowl area, they're really not shaped well there.