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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on August 08, 2011, 06:15:22 pm
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Trust me, I know what your gonna say.. Search is your friend. Yes your right, I am one to search because I know that many have done this before me.
However! all the search items that come up are not as conclusive as I would like them to be. Not only that but they deal with other hardware, mixed opinions, false information, and on some just a complete lack of common sense and any sort of reputable knowledge.
So what I would like this thread to be useful for is helping me figure out exactly what I need to do with the parts I have (if possible), or parts I need to get to make it happen.
THE SCENARIO
I have at my disposal an entire 1998 AHU TDI. I have all the electronics necessary to run the motor out of car, as I have had it running on the stand. I was going to do a full on electronic swap but have found I would much rather build an m-tdi for simplicity sake. I want to take this motor and put it in my 1984 Jetta. I will be putting a 210mm clutch on the motor so it will work with my existing 020 5 speed. Thus making my axles, and spindles usable. Yes I know the 020's are far inferior to that of 02A/02J which is currently mounted to my AHU (may still be swapped in one day ;)).. but it will be the easiest route to take right now. I am not hard on my vehicles so I feel the old transmission will hold up just fine. There have been some high horsepower 1.8t and 2.0t engines with torque surpassing that of the 150ft.lbs of the AHU.. so I have faith.
THE PARTS
I have 1.6 na pumps, a 1.6 td pump, associated mounts, all you can think of to make this swap happen. Its not the swap itself that i need help with just the m-tdi pump part.
I have the entire tdi pump, a 1.6 TD pump that I want to combine to make the m-tdi pump. Doable?
THE IDEA
Here is a question I have not seen asked in my travels, why can I not just add the 1.6 TD pump top, governor assembly, and throttle shaft to the TDI pump?
What is involved in the using of the 1.6 TD pump body and pump mainshaft, with the DI specific cam plate, plunger, and head? Is it a direct swap in deal? or is there things that need modified to make it all fit together? I would prefer the easiest route here on how I can make this M-tdi pump work for me. I feel it will be most easily achieved through a 1.6 17mm mainshaft with the tdi bits installed. Also if I use the 1.6 pump that way I can mount it to the engine using the original 1.6 engine mounts eh? The part that mounts to the front of the block and the motor/pump integral piece.. atleast in my head that works.
I WOULD LOVE YOUR INPUT ASAP PLEASE AND THANK-YOU! :D
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"Here is a question I have not seen asked in my travels, why can I not just add the 1.6 TD pump top, governor assembly, and throttle shaft to the TDI pump?
What is involved in the using of the 1.6 TD pump body and pump mainshaft, with the DI specific cam plate, plunger, and head? Is it a direct swap in deal? or is there things that need modified to make it all fit together? I would prefer the easiest route here on how I can make this M-tdi pump work for me. I feel it will be most easily achieved through a 1.6 17mm mainshaft with the tdi bits installed. Also if I use the 1.6 pump that way I can mount it to the engine using the original 1.6 engine mounts eh? The part that mounts to the front of the block and the motor/pump integral piece.. atleast in my head that works."
The answer to your first question is there is the tdi pump body is not machined for the throttle lever, and governor assembly. That's why you have to put the tdi parts into the 1.6 pump. The 1.6 pump has a 17mm input shaft and the tdi pump has a 20mm shaft. Imo you can run a 10mm head and rotor assembly on the smaller 17mm input shaft without any issues.
I'm sure you've read the faq on building an mtdi pump but the good info doesn't start until page 5 or 6. User with the name Hey has posted the best info I have come across for building the mtdi pump. Basically, you can install the tdi camplate, head and rotor assembly with springs and the tdi advance system(piston, spring and cover and pressure regulator) and have a functioning mtdi pump. If you want to get the full potential out of the pump then you need to modify the throttle lever and the governor lever as per heys instructions.
The finished pump can then be mounted with the original 1.6 pump bracket and pulley.
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I run a 12mm head on a 17 mm axle. And the IP now has around 12000 km of inspired driving to it ;D
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My mtdi pump was built with an 11mm head with the 17mm shaft with over 20,000 km on it now and still going strong.
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Hi, I recently picked up a 4BT pump for parts, or as a basis for a mTDI build on a 1Z/AHU that will be installed in my '89 Vanagon. I gather I need to find an LDA and governor from a VW turbo VE pump, and then of course a bunch of internal mods that I'm currently investigating. The 4BT pump body has a broken off mounting ear and is missing one of the delivery valves. I have numerous VW NA diesel pumps in my stash, so I'm considering the possibility of surgically removing the corresponding piece of one of those pump ears and then having it TIG'd onto the 4BT and machined down. Or perhaps I should just pull the 20mm mainshaft and remaining 4BT internals and transplant them into another suitable pump body. Are the delivery valves interchangeable between various models, e.g. can I just use standard 1.6L NA delivery valves on this 4BT 12mm head?
Thanks,
Casey
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Hi, I recently picked up a 4BT pump for parts, or as a basis for a mTDI build on a 1Z/AHU that will be installed in my '89 Vanagon. I gather I need to find an LDA and governor from a VW turbo VE pump, and then of course a bunch of internal mods that I'm currently investigating. The 4BT pump body has a broken off mounting ear and is missing one of the delivery valves. I have numerous VW NA diesel pumps in my stash, so I'm considering the possibility of surgically removing the corresponding piece of one of those pump ears and then having it TIG'd onto the 4BT and machined down. Or perhaps I should just pull the 20mm mainshaft and remaining 4BT internals and transplant them into another suitable pump body. Are the delivery valves interchangeable between various models, e.g. can I just use standard 1.6L NA delivery valves on this 4BT 12mm head?
Thanks,
Casey
pretty sure you need delivery valves matched to the pump and injectors.
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I've swapped delivery valves between pumps on Mercedes M-Pumps, and that's worked fine. I'm wondering if I need to use TDI delivery valves to match the injectors, which would make sense.
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Over at thesamba.com there's a guy who ran his AHU with a JX 1.6-pump.
I know a few guys with both JX and AAZ-pumps on TDI engines and the for sure work fine. I assume there's less power, but they are way better than the old JX.
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Have you made any progress on this 8v of Fury?
Just in the middle of the same sort of thing here. I have stripped an old GM VE pump for practice and worked out how it all goes back together.
So the real deal strip down started and I have just pulled the 1Z TDI pump head............only to find one of the two springs is broken. :'(
What are the chances of the springs in a 1Y NA IDI pump being the same? I am having a beer to dull the emotions of my broken spring find, I think it would be best not to strip down a 3rd VE pump in the living room this evening. ;D
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I think it would be best not to strip down a 3rd VE pump in the living room this evening. ;D
Of course not, That is what the kitchen is for!
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Of course not, That is what the kitchen is for!
I have engines in there! :o
I think I will just strip the 1Y IDI pump tomorrow and check it out. I am sure the local garage has some other kind of VE pump lying that could be investigated too. That makes 5 pumps in bits, I need counselling for this dub addiction. ::)
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Of course not, That is what the kitchen is for!
I have engines in there! :o
I think I will just strip the 1Y IDI pump tomorrow and check it out. I am sure the local garage has some other kind of VE pump lying that could be investigated too. That makes 5 pumps in bits, I need counselling for this dub addiction. ::)
what possessed you to take apart 4 pumps? do you have a grand plan or something?
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what possessed you to take apart 4 pumps? do you have a grand plan or something?
First one was just an old unusable pump for an investigation and to see how they are put together. It was scrap anyway so ideal to learn on and not worry about damaging anything.
The TDI pump was for the pump head and camplate. It was never going to be used in an E TDI setup again.
I was looking at the 1Y IDI pump with a view to installing the TDI head on it as it physically fits on the TDI engine I have in my project car.
I have a late AAZ pump with the extra electrical connection that interferes with the advance mechanism so it was no use, but may be a source for the LDA to go on the 1Y pump.
The problem has come up with a broken spring in the TDI head assembly though. The donor car ran fine. Has anyone else come across a broken spring in a pump head before?
You have to strip things to build them again. My race car has had 5 gearboxes stripped to get bits for mine, and it is a 4 speeder! ;D
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The springs in the aaz pump might be similar to the springs in the tdi pump. If you can come up with a part # for the spring I bet you could get a set from a bosch dealer for cheap.
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Has anyone else come across a broken spring in a pump head before?
It's reasonably common. You can usually hear the pump making some abnormal noises when this happens but not always and you need to know what you are listening for.
You don't need the part number for the spring, just go in with the 10 digit Bosch number for the pump and they can look up the spring for you.
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Cheers for confirming that broken springs has been heard of before.
Stripped the 1Y1.9 IDI pump today and the springs are a different length. The TDI pump head assembly uses longer springs (34mm) and guide rod pedestals which sit recessed into the iron pump head when compared to the 1Y IDI pump head arrangement which used 30mm springs and shorter rods that sit on the surface of the pump head.
I will get in touch with a local diesel pump specialist this week and see what I can turn up.
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http://rothengine.com/M-TDIUpgradePackage.aspx
If I get this kit (yah I know prothe..) and put it in my 1.6 TD pump, put my 10mm tdi rotor on it, and then bolt this to the tdi motor. Will it be effective?
There has to be about 3421 threads about making an M-tdi pump. None of them conclusive. All of them have missing posts, misinformation, and cockfights over who is right.
I want to make the most simple M-tdi pump known to man. And from my readings, a 1.6TD pump with this cam plate and spring kit, and a tdi 10mm rotor. Bolt it all together, strap it to the engine (who needs precise mounting holes) and bobsyourseconduncle, you've got a running M-TDI. Doing it this way would seem to retain stock 1.6td throttle, mechanical advance mechanism (cold start lever), and governer assembly. No?
Is this the bare bones M-TDI swap?
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Hows about this? http://www.rothengine.com/Product.aspx?RebuiltMTDIPump.htm
$350... hot damn.
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Hows about this? http://www.rothengine.com/Product.aspx?RebuiltMTDIPump.htm
$350... hot damn.
You already have everything you need for a barebones pump. If you put the 10mm head and rotor assembly, springs, camplate, advance spring and cap in your 1.6td pump, it will run a tdi. Just use the injection pump bracket that matches the pump body. Your 1.6td ip bracket will bolt right up to the tdi. You lose the small idler pulley that's on the tdi bracket but it's not a big deal. And that pump that you listed will have chinese made parts for sure. You already have all the genuine bosch parts you need make your own bare bones mtdi pump.
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I am picking up another TDI pump soon to get the parts I need to replace the broken spring in my current one.
The TDI pumps use two piece rollers for the camplate to run on. They are the same dimensions as the single piece ones used in the IDI pump I have, I presume the two piece setup is to cope with the more aggressive camplate in the TDI. Possibly helps keep the rollers rotating with the increased force generated by the steeper cam profile.
Much as there seems to be a lot of posts on MTDI pump building as mentioned above, some are still very relevant. The K and KF settings have to be checked or damage could occur.
I think a lot of the fuzzy info comes from the fact there are just so many variations of the oem pumps fitted over the years and different continents. So one aspect that is relevant to one type of pump build, is not on another.
In Euroland we have the Landrover Discovery TDI pump. I read somewhere that the camplate in these does not have the same lift as the VW TDI. It is also off a far heavier and slower running engine, so presume the advance curve would not be ideal when fitted directly to the smaller VW engine.
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Hows about this? http://www.rothengine.com/Product.aspx?RebuiltMTDIPump.htm
$350... hot damn.
You already have everything you need for a barebones pump. If you put the 10mm head and rotor assembly, springs, camplate, advance spring and cap in your 1.6td pump, it will run a tdi. Just use the injection pump bracket that matches the pump body. Your 1.6td ip bracket will bolt right up to the tdi. You lose the small idler pulley that's on the tdi bracket but it's not a big deal. And that pump that you listed will have chinese made parts for sure. You already have all the genuine bosch parts you need make your own bare bones mtdi pump.
So I will retain all the 1.6 throttle and governor setup? It will power the TDI to within stock TDI power specs? 90hp/150tq?
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Hows about this? http://www.rothengine.com/Product.aspx?RebuiltMTDIPump.htm
$350... hot damn.
Can you say PROTHE?!
you know better Jeremy.. lol.
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[quote
So I will retain all the 1.6 throttle and governor setup? It will power the TDI to within stock TDI power specs? 90hp/150tq?
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Yes, you will retain the 1.6 throttle and governor setup and it should be no problem to get 90hp with this setup. Start up and idling will be fine as well. The static timing has to be bumped up a little though. I would try 1.2 mm for starters. Once you're ready for more power just let me know and I'll help you with the next step.
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Can you say PROTHE?!
you know better Jeremy.. lol.
I have good luck with sketchy people ;)
Yes, you will retain the 1.6 throttle and governor setup and it should be no problem to get 90hp with this setup. Start up and idling will be fine as well. The static timing has to be bumped up a little though. I would try 1.2 mm for starters. Once you're ready for more power just let me know and I'll help you with the next step.
410, thank-you so much. The TDI is sitting as a complete lump in my garage. Hook up the battery cables and fuel lines and it will run status. I had it running this June on the stand, and revving up with the pedal sensor. So its all still good.
IS there any difference to the internals of an late mk2 N/A pump and a late mk2 TD pump? Other than the pump top/lid? Reason being, I have my TD pump on my n/a 1.6 now in my daily car (which will be getting the TDI) and it has a n/a top on it. If I could do the work to another pump and not have to have my car off the road for too long would be good. Can I use a 1.6 na pump with the tdi internals and 1.6 td top?
So here is my plan of attack.
- Get the TDI to TDC, Lock the cam (is there a cam lock?) and remove the belt
- Remove the injector lines
- Remove the pump and its bracket
- Remove the mk1 gasser mount I installed to make way for the 1.6 engine/pump mount combo
- Take apart the TDI pump
- Take apart a junker pump for reference and fitment of pieces
- Plan a weekend soon where I will have my car off the road to do all the necessary work to it :P
Is it really as simple as take it apart and put other parts in? If so why does this method not pop up more frequently? Just a simple bare bones mechanical TDI?
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These pumps come apart fairly easily. Getting the pump back together is a little trickier. I've used two methods to make this easier. I use vasoline to hold the springs in place while I install the head and I've also used parafin wax to do the same thing. The first time I reassembled a pump I installed the head and springs first then tried to install the governor lever into the pump last. It can be done this way because I did manage to do it but it was brutal. It's best to install the head and springs last with the pump standing up on its timing gear.
Inside the 1.6 pump there is a 'cross' with a spring near the camplate. The tdi pump will have a similar 'cross' but no spring. Make sure you use the cross from the tdi pump and don't use the spring. You should also be able to use a 1.6na pump with a 1.6td top as long as the governor levers are the same. I can't say for sure because I've never had an na pump apart. The only difference I can think of is no tap on the governor lever for the lda control which is no big deal.
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Can a 1999 FREELANDER 2-0 XDI fuel pump be used?
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Hey guys,
I just found this thread and I have some questions about building my MTDI pump.
So far, I have removed the head, 9mm plunger and camplate from my AAZ injection pump and I swapped in the TDI head, camplate and 10mm plunger. I thought I got it all right however I have two small springs left over and I think they came out of the AAZ pump. They look like this and I'm worried that they should have gone back in my Franken aaz/ahu pump.
Are these springs needed when running the ahu tdi camplate, springs plunger and head in the aaz pump?
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/boost_addicted/DSCF4458.jpg)
Here they are again next to some other springs
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/boost_addicted/DSCF4460.jpg)
And heres's my mtdi pump, minus those two springs pictured above that I'm not sure about. Note the AHU tdi in the background.
(http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm275/boost_addicted/DSCF4466.jpg)
Hey 410, the advance spring and cap you're talking about, do you have a picture of those... I have not swapped them into my aaz pump nor heard much about swapping them in.
Thanks,
Brandon
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Hi branden,
I think the springs in your pic are for the governor lever which are needed. They fit between the head and the governor lever and you need some vasolene or wax to hold them in place. For the advance spring and cover, you can use the aaz spring and cover setup. The aaz pump uses a two spring advance system which is very smooth and works really well. You can use the tdi spring and cover plate from the ahu pump as well. This is the only picture I have of the side of the pump showing the advance spring cover.
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m488/410-photos/IMG_0234.jpg)
Take the two bolts out and the spring and shims come right out. You will also have to change the advance piston which requires taking the pump apart a fair ways.
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I used this method of holding the springs in place.
(http://www.66rover.com/TDIswap/TDI%20Parts%20121307/slides/PICT1777.JPG)
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Nice idea Jimfoo. I used vasolene to hold the springs which worked quite well and I've also melted wax to hold the springs in as well. The first pump I reassembled I actually put the governor lever and springs in after installing the head. It's possible but barely!
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Excellent idea! im gonna use that for sure :)
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Can a 1999 FREELANDER 2-0 XDI fuel pump be used?
if its the rover engine the pump turns ACW , and if it is the bmw engine no
i have taken every thing out of a land rover 2.5 tdi pump and fitted it to a pug 306 pump that fits the 1z and runs 130hp all day long ,i did do the gov mod on it to
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What is the best m-tdi pump to build??
I see no reason why a 1.6 body with the 17mm shaft and 10mm tdi head and goodies can't supply the same fueling the tdi pump did..
but I guess most are going for big power with the tdi pumps.. and then they need to build the rover pumps or the cummins pumps.
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I was playing around with my junk mostly rusty pump to remember how they go together last night, and decided to shim the governor most of the way to swap with the one in my real pump. While looking at the M-TDI thread and pics of lengthening the link between it and the throttle shaft, I started wondering if shimming the empty idle spring part(AAZ) might change anything since there is so much play between the lever and where the governor first starts to contact it. It would change the starting position and angle, which may give more movement, but I'm not sure. I may cut the cover so I can see, although I'm not positive I want to do that. What are other's thoughts on this?
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Also in the original M-TDI thread, I'm glad to see I wasn't the only one to have problems of loosing the clip for the cold start. I thought it was just something I did wrong. I think I eventually machined some kind of plug for the hole.
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I was playing around with my junk mostly rusty pump to remember how they go together last night, and decided to shim the governor most of the way to swap with the one in my real pump. While looking at the M-TDI thread and pics of lengthening the link between it and the throttle shaft, I started wondering if shimming the empty idle spring part(AAZ) might change anything since there is so much play between the lever and where the governor first starts to contact it. It would change the starting position and angle, which may give more movement, but I'm not sure. I may cut the cover so I can see, although I'm not positive I want to do that. What are other's thoughts on this?
The idle spring in the aaz pump is actually on the fast idle circuit. You should be able to shim up the governor without affecting the idle. That empty section gets tensioned up by the governor as soon as it fires up.
I never did have problems with that clip on the cold start but I did end up with a leak in that area. I ended up removing the whole cold start setup and installed a advance spring cap from a donor 1.6 pump. Did you use the 1.9aaz advance piston and spring in your pump?
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Yes I used the AAZ piston and spring, although I have a modified one from my junk pump that I was going to put in which would allow it more advance, if it even needs it.
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I have at my disposal an entire 1998 AHU TDI. I have all the electronics necessary to run the motor out of car, as I have had it running on the stand. I was going to do a full on electronic swap but have found I would much rather build an m-tdi for simplicity sake.
You'll find at the end of this build that there is a lot of BS spouted over over the internet, based on chinese whispers, mis-quotes and implied experience.
With this in mind, fit the TDI pump and all the electronics and don't waste time and decent pumps trying to build some flawed mTDI compromise that will never work PROPERLY.
I would not start with any off the VAG origin pumps as a basis for a mTDI, it will smoke like hell.
Good luck with the build..... ;)
(me, bitter about the Frankenmotor advice offered on this very forum - no, not much!)
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If it can't smoke, it's not a diesel! ;) :D
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You'll find at the end of this build that there is a lot of BS spouted over over the internet, based on chinese whispers, mis-quotes and implied experience.
With this in mind, fit the TDI pump and all the electronics and don't waste time and decent pumps trying to build some flawed mTDI compromise that will never work PROPERLY.
I would not start with any off the VAG origin pumps as a basis for a mTDI, it will smoke like hell.
Good luck with the build..... ;)
Smoke isn't always a turnoff for all of us! I like to have the ability to show off my cloud! How would it be a flawed compromise If it hits torque numbers similar to the all electronic version? Just because VW didn't engineer it that way doesn't mean we can't :P
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How would it be a flawed compromise If it hits torque numbers similar to the all electronic version
By 'similar' you mean 'quite a bit less than'
You forget to mention fuel consumption?
Whilst I've no problem with a bit of off boost soot (as mates driving behind will testify ;)) but the mTDi just chugs. -
Heaps of smoke is not considered a good look by most normal people, and over here can get you a ticket or your car seized.
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Well, if the pump is built right it can run with lots of power and minimal smoke. I know first hand. I spent a lot of time reducing smoke in off boost situations and had excellent results in the end. I found the timing to be the most difficult to adjust but in the end that worked out fine as well.
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From what i have been reading it is possible to get some very decent even greater than stock tdi numbers out of an mtdi pump as well as normal fuel economy comparable to ecu control. Maybe i'm wrong since i haven't personally seen it or verified have only read what others are saying around the web. It is my plan to try it and see. I have seen folks ticketed for very excessive smoke, even been pulled over by the state boys a couple times myself but they usually let you on your way once you prove its a diesel not a badly maintained gasser!
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http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29246.0
This guy built M-TDI and I have seen it in person. It is good and I didn't see any smoke when he pulled in. He has also commented on it several times and says it drives, smokes, and goes pretty well.
Reg. I understand your frustration, but I have seen the 1.6 bottom and 1.9 head not smoke badly like yours did on cold startup. It was over 50F but no real smoke. Plus the guy had the correct thickness gasket and everything. Mine is complete 1.6 bottom and top and it smokes year round at startup. Not as bad as yours did, but I always have a whitish grey haze, if you look close enough, even when warm. I guess if it was bad and the cloud didn't go away I would do something. But if I needed a car to not smoke at all I would buy a gasser.
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http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=29246.0
This guy built one and I have seen it in person. It is good and I didn't see any smoke when he pulled in. He has also commented on it several times and says it drives, smokes, and goes pretty well.
Reg. I understand your frustration, but I have seen the 1.6 bottom and 1.9 head not smoke badly like yours did on cold startup. It was over 50F but no real smoke. Plus the guy had the correct thickness gasket and everything. Mine is complete 1.6 bottom and top and it smokes year round at startup. Not as bad as yours did, but I always have a whitish grey haze, if you look close enough, even when warm. I guess if it was bad and the cloud didn't go away I would do something. But if I needed a car to not smoke at all I would buy a gasser.
joshes engine ran beautifully.. correct head gasket, and everything. 1.6/9 hybrid..
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there is many ways to skin a cat as long as the end goods are the same , i have built a few pumps and tryed drifrant things in them , the pump on my mk2 golf has don 40th miles and if i sit at 55mph 65-70mpg and this pump is good for i would say 200hp but i de tuned to 130 so i dont brake anything so MTDI pumps can work just as well if not beter than Etdi, it shure starts beter from cold than the 14 etdi that i have had
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(first Post) ;D
I am also work on a basic pump build. I disassembled my vw 1.6 pump yesterday and all went well except for some of the screws I had to be very careful with and they will need replacing. The big problem was the jam nut and governor shaft were seized and that broke when it came out. So I went to boston fuel injection to get the replacement part and a rebuild kit. Waiting on a phone call from them now. Tomorrow I will begin to dismantle the ahu pump and organize my parts for the build. The plan for now is to start and run the engine for now with this basic pump and build my cummins pump down the road for more power. The reason for the hold off on the cummins pump mainly has to do with the need for a custom ip hub to mount an alh sprocket. Also I'd like to try a performance cummins governor spring (4200 rpm). Ideally I want fuel to higher rpms but the only way to run the vw govenor set up is to use the vw pump cover and throttle spring setup, and the springs on my vw pump are quite old and rusty.
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whoabeats, welcome aboard. How are you planning on mounting the 1.6 pump to the ALH? The housing is significantly different.
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whoabeats, welcome aboard. How are you planning on mounting the 1.6 pump to the ALH? The housing is significantly different.
I actually have an ahu and it mounts up good unless I am missing something? The only thing alh I plan to use is the sprocket and that will be for when i build the cummins pump. At school I plan to machine a hub that will mate properly to the cummins snout and will bolt up to the alh's slotted holes. I believe it will be a very tight fit. I have yet to do any cad or design for it yet though because I do not currently have a alh sprocket.
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When you said ALH sprocket I assumed that you had an ALH engine. The AHU had either a 50mm or 62mm mounting diameter. The 1.6s were all 50mm (I hope I have those numbers right, it's been a while).
For the cummins pump, could you not just pop off the hub on the ALH and stick that onto the cummins shaft? They should have the same diameter shaft and the same taper. I don't know if the offset would be correct or not though.
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This is something I have not attempted or found info for. That would be excellent if that is the case. I believe that the cummins pump snout is shorter though ( it is definitely shorter than the tdi and mechanical vw pumps I have now. I have to assume that the alh pump matches the others. All the B series engines which I am familiar with dont need to be as far forward because there is nothing between the pump and the gear as there is in a vw application, hence the shorter snout.
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Whoabeats, WELCOME :)
I too was thinking of using the 1.6 pump as a stand-in on my TDI swap, so that I could get the motor in there with what I have and get it running.
I haven't actually had the opportunity to get my TDI pump off yet, (will tomorrow though) does the 1.6 pump line up with the AHU bracket?
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Thats excellent news, I have access at school to the whole machine shop minus the cnc machines. Which have just not been hooked up yet. But I could easily take a fly cutter and take off the dome face.
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is it possible to swap the drive shaft so we could have the stronger shaft nose?
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That is a good question my cummins and tdi are both 20mm shafts. If they are the same that would allow perfect alignment.
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You can't swap the shafts because the TDI shaft does not have provisions for the gear that drives the flyweight assembly.
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would it be hard to machine it?
that would end with the "rumors" of shaft being weak to a m-tdi install...
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would it be hard to machine it?
It's hardened steel (AFAIK) but if you have access to the tools I don't see why not. You would have to get the dimensions just right or the buffers wouldn't fit or one would be doing most of the work and would likely fail quickly.
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would it be hard to machine it?
that would end with the "rumors" of shaft being weak to a m-tdi install...
Are you refering to machining the mainshaft snout? Because before I was told the alh hub would fit I planned to make my own hub for the cummins pump. I haven't been able to get my hands on an alh yet to try though. Once I have that hub though if it aligns. I'm ready to bench start it with the cummins pump. I'm gonna make a pressurized fuel tank via air compressor. And see how it runs.
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hi,
I am driving a Audi 80 from 1988 with a 1,9l mTDI.
I built my mTDI pump from a Citroen XM housing with 20mm axle where the housing and TDI T-Belt wheel fits direcly to the 1,9 TDI bracket.
on the "performance end" i used everything from a KIA Carnival 2,9 TD pump: plunger, camplate an lever
I took the timing advance parts and pumpcover /w LDA from an 1,6l IDI VW pump.
timed the pump at 0.9mm
At the start I used the SDI nozzles from the AEY that was the base for this conversion, later i changed to 0.260 nozzles.
The original 228mm clutch cannot take the torque when the turbo starts making pressure (running at 1bar) around 1800 rpm!
At this time the car has gone aroung 80.000km with this engine without trouble.
Vmax is close to 200km/h at 4000 rpm, due to the nice FHN-code gearbox from an Audi A4 130HP PD-TDI.
I believe that with more boost the engine could deliver a lot more power, but it is enough for a daily driver (at the moment ;) )
fuel economy is up to 20km/l !
greets, michael
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i have run a moded 1.6td pump on my other vw MTDI for 5 years with the 17mm shaft only run 110hp which is fine for the wife and never had a prob with this 17mm shaft , i would say 160hp and you would never get a prob with the 17mm shaft .