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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92EcoDiesel Jetta on July 28, 2011, 10:41:12 am
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I have a C clamp type valve spring compressor. Will it work on a hydro head? I am thinking of replacing the valve stem seals before putting the head back on. I'll try to get a pic of the spring compressor later.
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If it works on any vw 8v head it will work yours.
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Somebody gave me this years ago but I've never used it.. Hope it fits my head.
open
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/1311893410.jpg)
closed about 4"
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/1311893508.jpg)
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You have more range than that if you wind down the bottom part. You will need another tool to actually push down on the spring. That one is designed for this style head
(http://www.motorera.com/dictionary/pics/h/head.gif)
The VW springs are almost flush with the valve cover surface.
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Looks like I need to make a socket with cut-outs to push on the valve springs and get the keepers out?
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Yes. I made mine out of some cheap metal plumbing pipe. Easier to grind out the slot than a hardened socket.
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To be honest, I think that this valve tool will struggle to do the job.
The reason being it is not strong enough to 'break the seal' ie unwedge the collets.
I suspect it takes 2 to 3 times the power needed to merely compress the springs [dual springs at that]
A modified woodworkers 'G' clamp is the way to go IMO.
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What mod does the woodworkers 'G' clamp need? I have a woodworkers pipe clamp, much stronger than a G clamp. I'll try both.
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A shop press is my favourite, or a drill press.
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I'll be interesting to see if mine has dual or single springs.
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I suspect it takes 2 to 3 times the power needed to merely compress the springs [dual springs at that]
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Neither is available where I'm do the work.
A shop press is my favourite, or a drill press.
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What mod does the woodworkers 'G' clamp need? I have a woodworkers pipe clamp, much stronger than a G clamp. I'll try both.
I don't have a pic, because my dad made it 40 years ago and it's 20 miles away :(.
Weld to the fixed clamping face two parallel strips of metal say 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide by say 2" long,
Have the strips facing each other with tips about 1/2"apart.
This worked well, however, were it my tool, I'd find a ring, say a slice of M19+ socket to rest on the collet holder.
Weld this onto the two prongs. Don't make this more than say 1/4" high, else it may affect collet removal....
The clamp will weld, but I would even build a little clamp on device.
I inherited most of my dad's skills, but alas, not his ability to settle for a purely functional tool that took minutes to make.
Another option is to make use of the block headbolt holes and fabricate a screw in lever 8)...
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Don't forget 2 things:
1. SAFETY! Those springs are strong, and if things go badly parts will be flying at high velocities, and Moore's Law states that you will be the target of said parts...
2. You have to eventually put this all back together, so you need something that allows not only disassembly, but assembly as well... Like, you have to set the retainers into place and carefully release the spring tension back on to them, so a tool that does not allow for that is one-way use tool. Which is fine, if someone else is rebuilding the head for you.
Just my $.02...
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I use this, why invent the wheel all over when you can buy it ready made over the counter ;)
(http://www.biltema.no/ProductImages/19/large/19-228_l.jpg)
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dl sledding, good point about safety when working with springs. I always wear goggles working with them. I know someone who lost an eye taking apart a power window motor w/o wearing goggles.
Here's an inlet valve cleaned up. dual springs in my 92 Eco head. valve keeper removal tool and clamp. I need to make the opening in the neck larger for more working room getting the keepers back on.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/1312048974.jpg)
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I have used a compressor just like the one pictured on many Vw diesel heads. As mentioned it's not very strong but thats only been a problem when breaking the retainer and keeper loose for the first time. The rest of the time it's fine. I made an extension out of a plastic clutch alignment tool found one that fit in the "cup" on the compressor and tightened the screw that clamps it. I used a razor knife to cut a slot in both sides and it worked pretty good. Alas it wasn't strong enough and broke after a couple jobs so I was forced to make a new one out of aluminum.
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I see you got something figured out. is that a socket from a motorcycle repair pouch. :)
I already had taken pics so here ya go...
(http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt112/awc4140/ellie717.jpg)
(http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt112/awc4140/ellie718.jpg)
(http://i603.photobucket.com/albums/tt112/awc4140/ellie719.jpg)
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Here is a quick scetch of what the valve spring compressor looks like that I built to take apart my 1.9l hydro head.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/valvespringcompressordiagram-1-1.jpg)
If you guys are interested I can go to my shop and get all the measurments and such for it, just let me know
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I'm on my phone (wap) and can't see any pics.
Please post dimensions of your tool(s).
I epoxied a Quarter to one end of the clamp that contacts the recessed valves. Also epoxied the valve keepr tool ( a deep sparkplug wrench) to the other end of the clamp.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/1312072268.jpg)
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I played around with a few different combos when I started taking apart heads. the first one I made, which was not safe at all, and the piece on the left I got from a harbor freight kit, and ended up using only this piece. The cool part is the slideable magnet that catches the collars. I use a big arse c-clamp and a rubber sanding block for the bottom where it holds the head. Safe as can be for less than ten bucks. ;D
(http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/2488/img4816.jpg)
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Here's my improvised tool on the head. I made it using what's kicking around. Got the job done. If I were to do it again I'd use a shorter wood clamp (less weight) and use a larger diameter aluminum tube so I can have a larger opening and more working room to get the keeps out/ in..
I ended up just cleaning all the carbon off the valves and head, leaving the old stem seals in since they were ok. the guides were within spec as well as the seats and spring lengths.
(http://i1183.photobucket.com/albums/x480/Ecodiesel92/1312072613.jpg)