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General Information => General => Topic started by: jaysen71581 on June 02, 2011, 07:01:05 am
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I have a 4- door rabbit and was wondering if anyone has put speakers in the front doors? If so what size worked best..
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I haven't but depending on the door card in your rabbit I would say a 5.25" would be about the biggest you could run maybe a 6.5". I am fairly cerain a 6x9 would not work or look terrible. 4x6 would be cake.
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6x9 is too deep.
all rabbits have wing windows right?
depth is going to be the only limiting factor here..
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6x9 is too deep.
all rabbits have wing windows right?
depth is going to be the only limiting factor here..
you could put the speakers on rings to elevate them from the door cards.
While you're at it, you can add baffles [foam] to prevent them from exposure to moisture. the baffles also provide some restricted airspace as well for better bass response
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Sometimes you can find cabby door pockets,
that have a speaker area in the front.
Otherwise, there is a round hole in the door for speakers, kinda high up, above the window roller handle,.. but I can't remember the size.
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I was just wondering because the dash speakers are so small it's like your getting no good sound out of them..
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Yeah the 3.5" speaker no matter who makes it is not good in the dash. I am trying to stuff a 5.25" up in mine. A 4" normall used for a center channel with tweeters in the 3.5" dash hole would be a good deal IMHO.
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FWIW
I've got Memphis 3.5's in the front holes and concept audio 4x6's in the factory rear positions and a 12 inch sub in the back and it sounds great. As far as i'm concerned i don't think i would need speakers in the doors.
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i have JL audio TR evolution 3.5s in the dash, and 4x6 TR evos in the rear, along with a JL Audio 13" sub
my stereo will rattle the fillings out of your head, and it still never drowns out the music and words coming from the small speakers.
if i were running the speakers on an amp, they would make your ears bleed.
(the speaker locations in the doors are for 4x6 speakers or something like that)
and no speaker is going to sound good without some decent power going to it. even if you have a $1k component speaker system installed, and not enough power to it, its not gonna sound much better than a $30 set of speakers.. you need power to get good bass reproduction..
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I use to be a car audio nut, i have 2 12 inch infinity Kappa Perfects subs and a memphis 500d amp, i was thinking of getting a pair of memphis 6x9's and the 3.5's, it pounded in my 07 gti, i have a 1000d memphis amp but it needs repaired.
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another thing about speakers in the doors.. it just brings the virtual sound stage down, literally, it sounds like all the music is coming from lower in the car..
thats what i like about VWs, all the speakers are up high, so your legs dont have to be out of the way to hear your door speakers..
its kinda funny how VW rigged up the mk2/3 speakers to use the windshield as deflection.. sounds good still tho..
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What I found with speakers in the door (and dammit I don;t remember what size I used) is that it just made more rattles.. Being a God forsaken lepper (aka smoker) I run with the driver window cracked most of the time.. I suppose with new stripping it would have been okay, but with the window not fully up the darned thing rattled and drove me nuts...
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My '80 parts rabbit has 4" speakers in the door.........I'd have to look again but I'm pretty sure they're 4".
All the rabbits have the cut out in the door for them but you'd have to punch the hole in the door card.
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im pretty sure my grandpas caddy LX came with stock 4x6 speakers in the doors..
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Ok who has the car audio super cheap website hookup????
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my local walmart......
pioneer head w/usb good for reading mem stick with mp3 on it.. 90$
12" pioneer woofer 58$
6.5" 4 way sony xtream speakers 47
12" woofer box 38
sony xtream 600w amp 98
toaster is da thumpin... walmart.com does not show pioneer... so you gotta check yourself.. but ~$300 sound pretty good in the box..
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Wow, i wouldnt buy an amp wiring kit from walmart... Going to walmart for car audio is like trolling for fat chicks on a friday night...
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ohhh i alreay owned the wiring from multi cars ive stripped over the years.. just never used it... kept it for running new alt circuits and stuff...
toaster has interesting set up going on... setting it up for duel batt for camping
but components.. like amp/speakers and stuff... why not.. same stuff crutchield sells...
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I would use this site... http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i857_car-audio.html Really cheap prices. Far better than what you'll find locally.
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Wow, i wouldnt buy an amp wiring kit from walmart... Going to walmart for car audio is like trolling for fat chicks on a friday night...
Wires are Wires.. I don't think you can screw that up, and why pay more for the same thing?
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Wow, i wouldnt buy an amp wiring kit from walmart... Going to walmart for car audio is like trolling for fat chicks on a friday night...
sad thing, they sell the same wiring kits at all the stereo shops too.. prolly buy them from wal-mart because its cheaper
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What about German made car audio, that sh*t is expensive but does it mean its good???
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Ok the car audio for the rabbit has been purchased we are going with 3.5 infinitys in the front and 6x9 infinitys on the rear deck with 2 infinity 12's in the back all im missing is a good infinity amp but ill just go to old faithful my memphis 500d ;D
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what you got for power to the 6x9s?
deck power + 6x9's = sound like poo poo..
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memphis 200d ;D
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good, atleast you have something decent for them..
i have just deck power going to my speakers currently. i really should be running my mids and highs off my flex 4 amp..
i also have a Kicker ZX460 4 channel amp, but it likes blowing speakers up, so it would most likely turn my 3.5 & 4x6 speakers inside out..
*i used to have the end caps, the amp link, and a Kicker ZR360? amp also.. man, when you had those things all connected up, it looked like one gigantic amp, about 4 feet long*
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I had a kicker amp like that it was the 400watt version, it kept self grounding and they finally gave me store credit...
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Wow, i wouldnt buy an amp wiring kit from walmart... Going to walmart for car audio is like trolling for fat chicks on a friday night...
sad thing, they sell the same wiring kits at all the stereo shops too.. prolly buy them from wal-mart because its cheaper
ricer wiring.
Real cars get sjow or something like from a local electrical supply house. Nicer jacket, and I know it'll do power.
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Ive fit my infinity 3.5 in my dash, that was alot of time on the dye grinder and a dremel tool to trim away some metal to get it to fit and also test my 6x9, it is barely enough to fit, im thinking i could of went with a smaller speaker...
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
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Nope no crossovers, the 3.5's sound amazing though, lots of treble,
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Still there is no need for 6x9's with subs. They put out lousy mids, and even worse lows ;). I would replace them with some 6" or 6.5" rounds, and run some crossovers to only give them mids, and the fronts only highs. Let each speaker do what its intended job is.
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6x9s are already purchased lol...
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
You need to filter every speaker, or the overlap will cause cancellations regardless of speaker size. It's also a very quick way to kill HF/mid drivers by not running one. (if they don't have one internally)
I think the midbass upfront, and the subs crossed low is usually best. Time alignment and all that. Otherwise, you get mud.
Most home hi-fi speakers (even the cheap ones) will be on par, if not better then a "comparable" car audio speaker. Most of the t/s specs will be spot on also, unheard of in the mobile market.
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
You need to filter every speaker, or the overlap will cause cancellations regardless of speaker size. It's also a very quick way to kill HF/mid drivers by not running one. (if they don't have one internally)
I think the midbass upfront, and the subs crossed low is usually best. Time alignment and all that. Otherwise, you get mud.
Most home hi-fi speakers (even the cheap ones) will be on par, if not better then a "comparable" car audio speaker. Most of the t/s specs will be spot on also, unheard of in the mobile market.
most stereos worth their beans will have cross overs built into them.. my kenwood has a 3 way built in.. you can set the fronts, rears, and sub all to different frequencies..
i have my sub set to 80hz
my fronts set at 210hz
and my rears are set to 150hz
yes, im aware that there is nothing between 80-150hz, but it still sounds good. clear even. i still need more power to the satelite speakers tho..
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A quality 5x7 will still put out good sound, plus your running a sub right? No need for 6x9's if your running a sub.. unless your not running crossovers?
very correct.. a 5x7, or 6x8 will make just as much noise as a 6x9.. because the sub pretty much cancels out any low frequency sound the 6x9s are making..
my 5x7s in the stock rear locations sound just fine.. people always complain about their ears almost bleeding..
and why did you have to take a die grinder to the front speaker hole? my infinity kappas fit in there just fine with no mods.. (old skool kappa component set)
You need to filter every speaker, or the overlap will cause cancellations regardless of speaker size. It's also a very quick way to kill HF/mid drivers by not running one. (if they don't have one internally)
I think the midbass upfront, and the subs crossed low is usually best. Time alignment and all that. Otherwise, you get mud.
Most home hi-fi speakers (even the cheap ones) will be on par, if not better then a "comparable" car audio speaker. Most of the t/s specs will be spot on also, unheard of in the mobile market.
most stereos worth their beans will have cross overs built into them.. my kenwood has a 3 way built in.. you can set the fronts, rears, and sub all to different frequencies..
i have my sub set to 80hz
my fronts set at 210hz
and my rears are set to 150hz
yes, im aware that there is nothing between 80-150hz, but it still sounds good. clear even. i still need more power to the satelite speakers tho..
You don't need them set to the same frequency, you're doing it right.
Crossovers have curves/slope. Most used in car audio arnt steep 48db/octave like I would normally deploy.
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I always like my JL 12w4's crossed at 50hz. It seemed like they were quieter and hit harder. I also crossed my front speakers around 100-125 ish and the rears at 63-80. All this depended on the car and setup AND the biggest deal was my ears. Others hated my cars sound, but I loved it. I was also running a PPI pro mos 4x25 to the fronts, tweets, and rears. My subs were handled by a PPI Art series A 200, which was a tad small, but did the job on mono. I needed 2 of them really.
My crossoevers were only 24db/octave so maybe it filled in better than one that cut them more. At any rate, my last 4 cars didn't have any car stereo at all...eventhough I still have some of the old setup and could have one working.
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I always like my JL 12w4's crossed at 50hz. It seemed like they were quieter and hit harder. I also crossed my front speakers around 100-125 ish and the rears at 63-80. All this depended on the car and setup AND the biggest deal was my ears. Others hated my cars sound, but I loved it. I was also running a PPI pro mos 4x25 to the fronts, tweets, and rears. My subs were handled by a PPI Art series A 200, which was a tad small, but did the job on mono. I needed 2 of them really.
My crossoevers were only 24db/octave so maybe it filled in better than one that cut them more. At any rate, my last 4 cars didn't have any car stereo at all...eventhough I still have some of the old setup and could have one working.
wasnt aware they made a W4..
i know they make W3's, used to make W5's, still make W6's, and W7's..
PPI? screw you... im envious. 8)
and i was told to run my 13W7 at 80hz, and it does just fine.. i agree that subs do sound a bit cleaner on some music with lower XO frequencies, but my satelite speakers produce no bass frequencies, so this sub has to take care of everything below 80hz or so..
oh, i see that JL DID MAKE A W4, just a long, LONG time ago...
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I AM old school. W4 were basically an old school version of the W1's that handled a bit more power IIRC and were supposed to take a bigger enclosure. I put mine in the same enclosure I had the W1's in then moved to and even smaller one at I think 1.0 cubic foot per side and filled it. It pounded harder than some peoples 15" subs with 5x the power. When I would lift the trunk lid of the car and show them this tiny box 2 12's and a 200w amp they didn't know whether to stratch their head or their behind.
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I AM old school. W4 were basically an old school version of the W1's that handled a bit more power IIRC and were supposed to take a bigger enclosure. I put mine in the same enclosure I had the W1's in then moved to and even smaller one at I think 1.0 cubic foot per side and filled it. It pounded harder than some peoples 15" subs with 5x the power. When I would lift the trunk lid of the car and show them this tiny box 2 12's and a 200w amp they didn't know whether to stratch their head or their behind.
ive had setups like that in the past, but now im running a big block sub, and a big block amp to power it.. does a great job of shaking my thoughts 8)
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does a great job of shaking my thoughts
Nicely put 8)
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I've run 6.5"s in the doors. They will fit, but the regulators will need to be tweaked a bit, unless you plan on mounting them towards the middle, beside the seat. I had to mount mine directly to the door, and carefully cut the panel to fit around it. Any additional height will interfere with the window crank. Zender used to make crank spacers, but they're long since NLA.
I ran W4s almost 20 years ago, and PPI ProMos is probably just as old. It was he 1st amp line that was bridgeable and 2 ohm stable.
I'm also a big fan of staggered crossover points. Soundstream was always a big advocate of the practice. I remember doing a quick and dirty tuning of a friend's newly installed stereo. The system was way too boomy and muddled and the shop couldn't get it any better. I staggered the crossover points and it sounded 100% better. He was amazed that dropping 75hz to 175hz out of the equation made such a dramatic difference.
-Todd
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Yes, my old stereo was great back then and the last it was running still wasn't bad. I graduated HS about 15 years ago and it was when I was a sophmore that I bought all the stuff.
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I still have some of my old MB Quart QM series speakers (before they went bankrupt and sold to Rockford), MTX black and gold amps, Diamond Audio M5 subs etc.. Other than Audio Control, it's tough to find stuff made in the U.S.
I remember paying $300+ for a set of Quarts or $500+ for a Soundstream amp, and I never paid retail. My stereo guy that I've been using for 20 years (or longer) will break out the books and show me his cost, if I ask. I'm not sure if the ends justify the means.... today's China stuff is way more affordable and isn't terrible. I'm not sure that I'd be willing to pay that much for stereo equipment, nowadays. When I was younger, I had a lot more disposable income.
-Todd
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I liked my polk audio stuff over the MB, but it was just personal preferrence. MB were good speakers. I never paid retail either, but I know I never paid close to cost. My guy would show me the books, but never a check or invoice :D
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I still have some of my old MB Quart QM series speakers (before they went bankrupt and sold to Rockford), MTX black and gold amps, Diamond Audio M5 subs etc.. Other than Audio Control, it's tough to find stuff made in the U.S.
I remember paying $300+ for a set of Quarts or $500+ for a Soundstream amp, and I never paid retail. My stereo guy that I've been using for 20 years (or longer) will break out the books and show me his cost, if I ask. I'm not sure if the ends justify the means.... today's China stuff is way more affordable and isn't terrible. I'm not sure that I'd be willing to pay that much for stereo equipment, nowadays. When I was younger, I had a lot more disposable income.
-Todd
soundstream is chinese now, and they still work GREAT.. im sure its not the us made quality that we all love, but my soundstream amps have been awesome..
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soundstream is chinese now
Yeah, I'm well aware of that.... tough to find anything that isn't, lol. I used to use a bunch of their "MC" and "D" line amps, way back when. I got away from them when they lost the anodized blue design and went "Reference".
Maybe 3-4 years back I stupidly blew a set of Exact 5.2s that probably retailed for about $400-$450. It was totally my fault, but I got a new receipt and got them replaced under warranty.... a 10-15 year warranty, lol! Anyhow, I got the Soundstream rep to send me 2 sets of 6.5" coaxials in exchange. I Googled the speakers that they sent me and I was finding them for about $50 shipped. Lighter cones, stamped steel frame, instead of the heavy cast AL frame, smaller, cheaper crossovers, etc., but they're not the worst speakers I've ever owned; I currently have a set in the truck.
Back on topic, I plan on running either these 6.5" or a set of 5.25" in the doors. I was thinking of doing another power window set-up, losing the remote mirrors and mounting them high where the 4" cutouts are.
-Todd
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soundstream is chinese now
Yeah, I'm well aware of that.... tough to find anything that isn't, lol. I used to use a bunch of their "MC" and "D" line amps, way back when. I got away from them when they lost the anodized blue design and went "Reference".
Maybe 3-4 years back I stupidly blew a set of Exact 5.2s that probably retailed for about $400-$450. It was totally my fault, but I got a new receipt and got them replaced under warranty.... a 10-15 year warranty, lol! Anyhow, I got the Soundstream rep to send me 2 sets of 6.5" coaxials in exchange. I Googled the speakers that they sent me and I was finding them for about $50 shipped. Lighter cones, stamped steel frame, instead of the heavy cast AL frame, smaller, cheaper crossovers, etc., but they're not the worst speakers I've ever owned; I currently have a set in the truck.
Back on topic, I plan on running either these 6.5" or a set of 5.25" in the doors. I was thinking of doing another power window set-up, losing the remote mirrors and mounting them high where the 4" cutouts are.
-Todd
i have a Rubicon 1600w monoblock amp, and its got the anodized blue chassis.. its actually a nice heavy piece for a chinese amp.