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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: wdkingery on May 28, 2011, 06:49:12 pm
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Hey I just got a new IP from thedieselstore.com about a month ago... $450 shipped with core seemed great, and it has been.
But its gotten to where the idle is hangin. It'll carry itself @ 25mph in 5th. A quick rev won't knock it down, but if I pull the cold start and push it back on it'll fall back down.
Any ideas? I'm gonna call them on Tuesday as I think I have a warranty
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That is what I would do if it has only been a month. Let them suggest the fix rather than start turning screws and such and then have them deny a return later.
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Yeah every screw on the damn thing has yellow jiffy lube paint on it
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The better to see if you were fooling with them, Grandma
They think they rebuilt it correctly and set it accordingly. Hence the paint, break the paint, break the warranty.
Call and talk to them or get stuck with a dysfunctional pump for 450 bucks. Not a good ider now is it?
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Hahahah yeah Ima give them a jingle on Tuesday. Meanwhile Ima check about this 91 NA that just landed @ the boneyard; Ima need it either way, specially if they want this one back for repair
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Sounds like you have a late MK2 pump with the idle-up lever that's connected to the cold-start lever. You'll see it on the back of the pump. There is an extra shaft with a spring on it that connected to a second lever on the throttle lever. My old pump used to do that, especially when it was cold outside. And, the only solution was to pull the cold start lever a few times to get it to drop. I later found a massive air leak on one of the return lines, so I can't rule that out as part of the problem. Eventually, I pulled the pump and swapped in an early Rabbit pump I had rebuilt. No problems since.
I'd say spray some penetrating oil all over those levers. It may be that the new seal is making the throttle lever bind a bit.
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yay this was the kind of info i was looking for; infact i was on my way out (as soon as i research hydro heads on mech blocks) to see if there was something related to the cold start area that could be causing this.. i recently had all my oil blow out my dipstick tube when my PCV clogged up (it's an experiment i've got going; trying to calm the smoke down with steel wool in the PCV hose before it exits from under the car) and it got oil all over the pump and every other thing, so that whole area just got an entire can of starting fluid.
it likely needs just that.
i'll report back
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well i wasn't able to find anything of real value, except there's some kind of adjustable long stick that goes down to the cold start that looks like it might be a possible solution, but again it's got yellow on it too.. shucks i'ma wait till tues and see what they say
hey does turnin the fuel screw in till it smokes (like it appears everyone is doin) turn the gas mileage down much? i'd like to smoke when i accel now :)
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well i wasn't able to find anything of real value, except there's some kind of adjustable long stick that goes down to the cold start that looks like it might be a possible solution, but again it's got yellow on it too.. shucks i'ma wait till tues and see what they say
hey does turnin the fuel screw in till it smokes (like it appears everyone is doin) turn the gas mileage down much? i'd like to smoke when i accel now :)
All that smoke is diesel that was burnt.
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turn the gas mileage down much? i'd like to smoke when i accel now
Well, just how much do you enjoy smokin' tailgaters? It comes at a cost and with diesel still floating over 4 bucks a gallon I just hit the emergency flasher rather than the pedal.
To Answer your question in short, YES. It does depend on where you set it so it seems. You may get it so that you really have to floor it to make it smoke and then you would not loose much economy if you tender foot it. I laugh at the honking diesel pickups that bellow black all the way up the same hills I don't. If I ever see one in the station filling up they all tell me they get good mileage on diesel. Like 20 -22 is good? Maybe for them but when they ask about my mileage I tell them they don't want to know, when they ask again and say they are interested and I show them the record of 44-50 they about cry. So smoke comes out and dollars go with it in my way of thinking. But then I am considered a little weird.
Smoke'm if you got em.
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turn the gas mileage down much? i'd like to smoke when i accel now
Well, just how much do you enjoy smokin' tailgaters? It comes at a cost and with diesel still floating over 4 bucks a gallon I just hit the emergency flasher rather than the pedal.
To Answer your question in short, YES. It does depend on where you set it so it seems. You may get it so that you really have to floor it to make it smoke and then you would not loose much economy if you tender foot it. I laugh at the honking diesel pickups that bellow black all the way up the same hills I don't. If I ever see one in the station filling up they all tell me they get good mileage on diesel. Like 20 -22 is good? Maybe for them but when they ask about my mileage I tell them they don't want to know, when they ask again and say they are interested and I show them the record of 44-50 they about cry. So smoke comes out and dollars go with it in my way of thinking. But then I am considered a little weird.
Smoke'm if you got em.
hahahah ok.. i'll stick with my non-smoke gas mileage then.
i figured if i was breakin the yellow jiffy lube seals i'd go for smoke too.
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well i wasn't able to find anything of real value, except there's some kind of adjustable long stick that goes down to the cold start that looks like it might be a possible solution, but again it's got yellow on it too.. shucks i'ma wait till tues and see what they say
hey does turnin the fuel screw in till it smokes (like it appears everyone is doin) turn the gas mileage down much? i'd like to smoke when i accel now :)
thats going to make your idle hang even worse.. turning the fuel screw up..
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try unscrewing the residual fuel screw, the one that the throttle lever rests against.
Giles
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try unscrewing the residual fuel screw, the one that the throttle lever rests against.
Giles
wow i feel honored you'd try to help!
i assume you mean this one: (http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/2956/imag0238k.jpg)
i turned that down after thedieselstore.com (where i bought the pump) told me to; you can even see were it's been cranked out..
that didn't even lower the idle with the problem solved..? now it does nothing as i turn it until it hits the point it used to rest at; then the idle comes up as you turn the throttle..? i thought for sure i'd get a lower idle by crankin that out a bit.
well anyway, the problem is that the cold start creeps up when the engine revs up.. so you have to push the cold start back down, but the cold start handle cable doesn't have enough ass to do that .. so i zip-tied the cold start down for now :( you can actually see the ziptie in the photo (runnin up to the fuel line that my dumb ass took the rubber insulators off of and lost_
Edit: well I have found that the little knob goin to the cold start is related. It's still wonky. Now I've got these screws all wound every which way and I either have high idle, or teeth chatterin battery light blinkin low idle. Shucks. (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/577/imag0238k.jpg/)
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Can you get it back down to the teeth chattering stage and then bump the timing up a little and get it to smooth out? Oh and I would love to have that fitting under the OUT banjo of yours. 1 drill+tap+fitting = internal pressure gauge.
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Can you get it back down to the teeth chattering stage and then bump the timing up a little and get it to smooth out? Oh and I would love to have that fitting under the OUT banjo of yours. 1 drill+tap+fitting = internal pressure gauge.
bumping the timing to smooth it out wont work. these things dont respond to timing changes like a gasser does.. you cant advance it and make it idle a whole bunch faster..
and all mk2 pumps have that out bolt pedestal.. they are great for making an internal pressure gauge adapter..
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If that is a actual picture of your pump / setup
It looks like the return hose maybe sitting on top of the throttle linkage possibly hanging it up?
or is that an optical illusion?
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If that is a actual picture of your pump / setup
It looks like the return hose maybe sitting on top of the throttle linkage possibly hanging it up?
or is that an optical illusion?
Good observation! It's not got any tension on it tho. I'm about to make a video so yall can see
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aight i got a video up now..
keep in mind it started doin this on it's own.. so no matter what i do with idle set screw there it's still gonna hang.
http://youtu.be/M0v3w73SIgw?hd=1
i tried to embed it but it didn't work
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Ahhhh I think I see the problem
you have a 86 or later pump with Idle boost.
what you are adjusting is the residual fuel adjustment.
The Idle should be adjusted with the Idle boost screw that is the little rod with hex head going down to the cold start advance lever on the engine side of the pump.
the traditional "Idle speed adjusment screw" on these pumps is actually for residual fuel adjustment.
Bentley says if residual volume is to high loosen lock nut turn screw out until engine speed stops decreasing. Then turn the screw in just until the engine speed increases, and back the screw out 1/2 turn.
In your video I can see the Idle speed boost rod vibrating like it is loose you may have to turn that in until you start to get Idle to increase then adjust the residual screw again I am not sure.
On mine I have the residual screw backed out more than what bentley calls for and I can adjust Idle with the boost rod. i know I am in range when I pull the advance cable out to the first detent and my Idle increase.
Also you may want to get Injector line dampeners on there before you start to break Injector lines.
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yay some possible clarity!
the car's an 85, and i thought i got an identical pump back.. but movin on:
yes ignorance is big part of the problem here; i don't know what half this *** does!
the little hex dancing around.. yes that thing is disconnected at this point; i backed it out too far and it let go, and i've yet to fish it back together.. i thought it was part of the cold start crap so i didn't think it was related.
yesss... i've been told about that already; sadly i lost them. (clamps)
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In your video if you look to the right of your out bolt you can see the Idle boost screw head vibrating.
It sounds like you have adjusted the full load screw in too much to compensate for the low Idle adjustment of the boost rod and the "Hang" is actually too much "Droop" because the full load screw is turned in too much. I am taking the word "Droop" from the bosch manual allways thought they may have ment drop. but this is all just my "wag"
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Have you adjusted the full load screw since you got the pump?
well that cold start boost rod is how I adjust the Idle when I have gotten it right I really helps on cold mornings you may want to put the rod back in order before trying to continue.
Do you have a bentley?
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i haven't adjusted anything.. it's all painted yellow and i think it voids my warranty to dick with any of it.
i don't know what any of the screws do, so if you could use my photo from a few posts back to elaborate on your explanation that would be great.
yes i have the bentley.. maybe i shoulda been reading that to begin with? but i thought cause i had a brand new pump that something was hangin up inside the pump.
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First you'll want to find out what will and will not void our Warranty before you continue
There are probably others on here that could tell you the correct way I only know the way I do it.
the adjustment that you have circled in red acording to bentley is the residual fuel adjustment.
the rod going down to the cold start lever on this model pump the Idle boost / Idle adjustment.
the full load screw is on the back of the pump close to the stop solenoid .. stop solenoid is the deal with the wire going to it.
first thing I would do is to correct the boost Idle / Idle adjustment springs and all if they fell off?.
make sure when the advance cable is pushed all the way in that the cold start lever on the side of the pump is all the way at its bottom.
slowly turn the Idle boost / Idle adjust screw in until it starts to bottom out then back it out halfway.
at this point you should be able to use the boost Idle / Idle adjustment rod to make changes to the Idle up and down
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If you cannot adjust Idle with the boost Idle rod then the residual fuel screw and or the full load screw may be adjusted to high