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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: camboscams on May 05, 2011, 04:32:39 am
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So where would someone purchase a decently priced one? I can't find one on Mcmaster Carr as i've heard you can find them there.
Thanks Cambo
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manual boost controller?
ebay.com and do a search for "nxs boost controller" 20$ + 3$ shipping
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manual boost controller?
ebay.com and do a search for "nxs boost controller" 20$ + 3$ shipping
Or build your own, http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=59089 (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=59089)
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http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-relief-valves/=c6bw2k
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manual boost controller?
ebay.com and do a search for "nxs boost controller" 20$ + 3$ shipping
Or build your own, http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=59089 (http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=59089)
Nice link maybe a candidate for the FAQ section!
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I built one early last year and have had no problems at all with it.
I think it cost me less then 15 bucks.
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I built one early last year and have had no problems at all with it.
I think it cost me less then 15 bucks.
That's awesome, was the amount of boost pretty easy to adjust and was it very sensitive?
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I built one early last year and have had no problems at all with it.
I think it cost me less then 15 bucks.
That's awesome, was the amount of boost pretty easy to adjust and was it very sensitive?
Yea its super nice to adjust (just a bit tricky to get it right the first time), and it hold the boost really steady too. I was running 15lbs of boost with it and it worked perfect.
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I built one early last year and have had no problems at all with it.
I think it cost me less then 15 bucks.
That's awesome, was the amount of boost pretty easy to adjust and was it very sensitive?
mine was the same way, easy to adjust once it was all set up.. kinda a bit tricky when i first put it on tho. you will want to start with it on the lowest setting and work up, i started about in the middle.. wasnt too good of an idea. lol.
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Did anyone ever mount one inside the car? I wonder if you could use it to kinda control mileage, or be a deterrent to keep my foot out of it and get good mileage 8)
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Did anyone ever mount one inside the car? I wonder if you could use it to kinda control mileage, or be a deterrent to keep my foot out of it and get good mileage 8)
depends on if the blow off goes into the cabin or not. ;)
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I built mine from an air regulator in the airtools section of Home Depot (came with a gauge, they of course were out of stock of the one without the gauge) and two 1/8to1/4 NPT barbed connector, 1 package of the 3/8 vacuum line tubing, 4 tiny little hose clamps, and plumbers tape. I think all together even with the more expensive valve, 30 bucks.
Works like a champ, and it will hold 20 psi all day long. Once I neaten up the engine bay a little more, the gauge will look cool in there, doing nothing. :D
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I built one early last year and have had no problems at all with it.
I think it cost me less then 15 bucks.
That's awesome, was the amount of boost pretty easy to adjust and was it very sensitive?
mine was the same way, easy to adjust once it was all set up.. kinda a bit tricky when i first put it on tho. you will want to start with it on the lowest setting and work up, i started about in the middle.. wasnt too good of an idea. lol.
Haha yea I would definatley start with no spring tension at all :P
I actually hooked mine up to my air compressor and set it to 15 psi to try and dial it in like that, I guess it sorta worked but it still took alot of playing around with to get it set right
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Yea rather be safe then sorry for sure!
What do you mean about blow off?? Its going on a vnt setup and im not planning on running a blow off valve if that's what your referring to
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I built mine from an air regulator in the airtools section of Home Depot (came with a gauge, they of course were out of stock of the one without the gauge) and two 1/8to1/4 NPT barbed connector, 1 package of the 3/8 vacuum line tubing, 4 tiny little hose clamps, and plumbers tape. I think all together even with the more expensive valve, 30 bucks.
Works like a champ, and it will hold 20 psi all day long. Once I neaten up the engine bay a little more, the gauge will look cool in there, doing nothing. :D
a pressure regulator doesnt function the same way a boost controller does.. and usually, dont regulators have like, a 100 psi gauge on them?
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Mine tricks the wastegate, by entering a leak in the line. (I am sure ya know that) but am curious as to why you are pointing it out? I didnt even want the gauge, but like I said they were outta stock.
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dawes valve doesnt let ANY air thru, then POPS the wastegate open
a regulator lets air thru till a certain PSI, then closes off, so it cant build any more pressure.. this way lets the wastegate slowly open like the way it works factory. the wastegate starts opening before desired boost pressure is achieved. thats the cool thing about the boost controller, it holds the wastegate CLOSED until it reaches its opening pressure, then the controller POPS the WG open.. the way you have it now, under low boost (below your wastegate setting) your waste gate will be opening slightly, and making your turbo take longer to spool.. we use dawes valver (boost controllers) for a reason.
a boost controller would work better, and let your turbo spool quicker
your air line regulator might work ok, but it doesnt function the same as a boost controller, and i think that having the controller keep the waste gate closed till XX psi is one of the big advantages of it..
(the air regulator kinda works backwards of how a dawes valve works)
thats the reason i brought it up..
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Ahh I see. Thanks for the explanation.
It builds boost continuously, but I dont feel it hit full spool untill about 3700 RPM and than it goes from 13psi to 20 psi, kinda like how a Saab 900s felt when the spool come on, but more muted of course. So if I switch to the Dawes, youre saying the boost will come on like mentioned above, but lower in the rpm range, taking more advantage of the fueling available in that range as well I imagine, for a little more punch?
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Ahh I see. Thanks for the explanation.
It builds boost continuously, but I dont feel it hit full spool untill about 3700 RPM and than it goes from 13psi to 20 psi, kinda like how a Saab 900s felt when the spool come on, but more muted of course. So if I switch to the Dawes, youre saying the boost will come on like mentioned above, but lower in the rpm range, taking more advantage of the fueling available in that range as well I imagine, for a little more punch?
the dawes valve holds the waste gate completely closed until the set boost pressure is reached, then it POPS it open.
without the dawes valve, the waste gate will start opening at say, oh, 4 or 5 psi.. the turbo feels sluggish because the waste gate is partially opening before it could..