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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: vdubspeed on April 22, 2011, 12:41:46 pm
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Well the time has come for me to boost a diesel. I've boosted 8Vs, 16Vs, 20Vs, etc but haven't played with diesels due to a lack of experience.
I've been daily driving my diesel swapped GTI since last fall and am ready to upgrade. I did a TDI swap into a mk1 for a friend a couple months back and scored a few turbo pieces for myself. One such thing I scored was a late mk3 turbo and exhaust mani. Since I'm a broke dubber with no job currently this is ALL on a budget and I will make something before I buy ANYTHING.
That being said...here's the platform:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap005.jpg)
Here is the current engine bay. A SOLID running 1.6. It will be getting removed for a 1.5 that I used to drive but pulled for the current 1.6. The donor 1.5 was a good runner too. It actually came out of a field and sat for 18 years.
Current bay:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap006.jpg)
Donor engine video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71LW2fjwKHY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71LW2fjwKHY)
So anyway...the 1.5 is on a stand and has been in the corner of my garage for a few months. Today I bolted on the manifold and clocked the compressor housing. Of course there was no way to mount the diaphragm for the internal wastegate so I built a quick bracket from some angle iron and some old k03 wastegate steel.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap003.jpg)
After that I started in on building an oil return hose. What I did was take a new beetle k03 return and hack it off at the flex section. I welded on a bung to accept a small line hose, attached that to some generic AN stainless line and the bottom section is something from a new beetle too. I still have to snatch a larger capacity pan from out back and will weld the nut onto it for the bottom to bolt up too. Must say it came together pretty good for just using junk.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap004.jpg)
And that's where I left off. I REALLY need to find an exhaust flange for this exhaust housing. I cannot for the life of me find just the flange. Prothe sells a downpipe but it inhibits the flow of the internal wastegate valve. I want to built a downpipe that doesn't just block the flap when it opens. Further more I need an intake manifold BAD. My friend gave me a mk1 cabby gasser intake but the runners hit the place where I plan to mount the EGT. More to follow...
Jason
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap002.jpg)
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FIRST.....
keep 'em comin' this is good stuff, Maynard. ;-)
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your prolly gonna want to cut the EGR port off the turbo, then you can run a gasser intake mani.. they are alot better than the stock turbo mani..
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see that is counter productive.
1. I already have this manifold and it works fine. Also the EGR runner is a great place for the EGT sensor.
2. a gasser manifold may be better...but boost is boost. Just because cylinder 2/3 are favored...does not mean equal boost is not being distributed and in the grand scheme of things...this is an old POS 1.5.
3. Imagine there is 10psi in an intake, when cylinder 1 intake valve opens...gets all the boost, and so on and so on.
A gasser manifold may be the optimum situation but I think a TDI manifold will be easier, cheaper, and won't make me cut a perfect exhaust manifold that will require nickel welding since it's cast.
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see that is counter productive.
1. I already have this manifold and it works fine. Also the EGR runner is a great place for the EGT sensor.
2. a gasser manifold may be better...but boost is boost. Just because cylinder 2/3 are favored...does not mean equal boost is not being distributed and in the grand scheme of things...this is an old POS 1.5.
3. Imagine there is 10psi in an intake, when cylinder 1 intake valve opens...gets all the boost, and so on and so on.
A gasser manifold may be the optimum situation but I think a TDI manifold will be easier, cheaper, and won't make me cut a perfect exhaust manifold that will require nickel welding since it's cast.
lol, you seem like you need NO HELP at all. you must have built a few of these already?
ive been there, done that.. got the tee-shirt. the gasser intake is a great upgrade. makes more torque on the bottom end. keeps cylinders 1 & 4 from getting too hot also. again, been there, done that. ive blown up a 1.5 from boost. and the intake manifold had a bit to do with it blowing up.
you can weld cast iron with mild steel wire. i did on my VNT turbo, cut the EGR port off, welded it closed, then drilled and tapped my welding for an EGT probe. its not a straight shot into the manifold thru the EGR port.. but if you hack most of it off, it makes placing the probe much easier. lol, should tell my turbo manifold that it needs to be welded with nickel rod.. cause it got welded with mild steel wire from a millermatic 250, and its been holding up great for years..
trust me, just because the intake has a box style plenum, does not mean it distributes the air evenly. there have been counltess threads about how the TD manifolds suck because they bias the center cylinders soo bad.. cyls 1 & 4 DO GET HOTTER then the center cylinders. the 1.5 i boosted, you could see that the outter pistons were more eroded than the center pistons.. that manifold does make a difference in air flow.
anyways, they were just suggestions, do it how you want, its your engine. i just know that i would be using a gasser intake because it makes things soo much easier. plus, it looks cool. and it works way better. you can feel the difference, just from replacing the intake manifold. and another thing, the RIGHT ANGLE ports on the intake manifold, they flow like hell..
also, you want the EGT probe in the stream of exhaust gasses, not up in a port like how you would install it in the EGR port.. so more than likely, even if you do put the probe in that port, its probably not going to read the correct temperature, its probably gonna read colder than it actually is..
either way tho, its your build, im not gonna twist your arm and make you build yours like i built mine, although you would thank me for twisting it after you got it finished and noticed the difference! lol..
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I'll bite. Now your miller is a 250 so you have way more amps. I have a Hobart 140. Just a little 110 unit. I use a CO/Argon mix with straight steel wire. I guess I could experiment on all old exhaust mani's I have out back. Just worried about cracking.
I don't like the mk1 gasser intake I have though. I would rather have a mk2 unit see so the intake is on the passenger side. I don't plan to run an intercooler so....
Anyway...we shall see.
Thanks for the input.
Jason
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I'll bite. Now your miller is a 250 so you have way more amps. I have a Hobart 140. Just a little 110 unit. I use a CO/Argon mix with straight steel wire. I guess I could experiment on all old exhaust mani's I have out back. Just worried about cracking.
I don't like the mk1 gasser intake I have though. I would rather have a mk2 unit see so the intake is on the passenger side. I don't plan to run an intercooler so....
Anyway...we shall see.
Thanks for the input.
Jason
lol, yea, your hobart wont do it.. not enough heat to dig in deep enough. maybe tho! its worth a try. i know my turbo is still sealed, and i didnt pre-heat it or let it cool down super slow or anything.. maybe i just got lucky, who knows. i weld with straight argon. our welder is mostly used for aluminum.
and intakes, mk2 unit is better than the mk1 unit anyways.. it has bigger runners. ive been running a mk2 gasser intake since i blew up my first 1.5 and have had ZERO problems with it. only intake better than the mk2 unit, is the G60 unit, or fab up a custom one.
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Well I took the exhaust mani welding for a test drive. I think it will work...enough. I turned up my heat to the max and welded some scrap steel to the exhaust mani. It was kinda tough because the mani was soaking up the heat and when I would move to the steel it would melt instantly. When I do the manifold I will preheat for sure.
BUT...I'm going to pull the trigger and chop the manifold. I can get a mk2 intake for free and have all the crap to make the intake plumbing.
I did get the scrap with a hammer while it was still warm and after a few hard hits it cracked. The probe will NEVER have any stress on it so I think the weld will be fine if I preheat and just cake it with steel :)
Well here's a picture of the experiment. Whatcha think?
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap.jpg)
Thanks again for the input glegor.
Jason
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the return pipe is fine. The exit from the center cartridge is only 1/2inch on the turbo but the k03 outlet is massive at like 7/8. I pull it back down to about 1/2 at the AN line and it stays that way until it enters the pan.
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I brazed an exhaust mani with not problems.
X2 on putting the egt probe somewhere other than the egr port!
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I brazed an exhaust mani with not problems.
X2 on putting the egt probe somewhere other than the egr port!
only reason i drilled my EGR port for an EGT probe, was because the VNT egr ports are shaped differently, and you can get right down into the gas stream from the EGR port on a VNT.. i cut the EGR flange off to clear the intake manifold more than anything..
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Well I got the oil feed line built and it's right in line with my budget build.
I took a new beetle. 1.8t feed line I had and chopped off the back half right before the flex. Then I dug out the fitting from any mk1 gasser with a WUR and used the larger fitting from the WUR. I cut the nipple off and drilled the hole a little larger before welding it to the new beetle feed.
When it was all said and done I have a feed line that is free plus it hugs the block and looks the part (simplistic)
I ended up going with a Spearco manifold thanks to Travis and plan to cut/weld the EGR port in a few days. Should have most of the fab work minus the downpipe done pretty soon.
Regards,
Jason
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/DSC_0112.jpg)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/DSC_0109.jpg)
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will the turbo be provided with sufficient oil and or pressure being fed from that port on the head? It is the last spot to see oil, and receives the lowest oil pressure of the system when warm ? I mean Hellsyeah to fabrication, but will it work properly?
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I think it will be fine. Minimum is going to be what, 10psi? it doesn't take much oil and 10psi is a lot.
Pull your oil pressure sensor out and start her up and then doubt that there will be sufficient oiling...
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been running a 16vT on head oil feed for 6 years and the turbo is fine. Hell...VW put the oil pressure senders there in some models so obviously it gets enough pressure to keep the gauges pegged(think mk1 cabiolet that I know for a fact puts the VDO sender there from the factory)
Anyway...I ain't worried about it. In fact...I worry that it's to much oil. All my other turbo builds run restrictors with oil comin from the head or the oil filter piece.
Wish the diesel wasn't my daily. I still have my 20vT rabbit that did daily service for a few years that I can jump in but I will miss the diesel when it has to come off the road for the motor swap and final fabrication.
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yeah i would be a bit concerned about not having a restrictor, dunno if that turbo needs one or not, i always understood that the turbos hardly used any oil. i totally agree tho, on my gfs cabby at idle with the sensor on the head and fairly light oil there is almost a full bar of pressure, and when ur on it, there is nearly 1 bar for every 1k rpms. and i like to wind that 10:1 8v out haha.
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(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap002.jpg)
By the looks of it in the picture, that oil return line will be right in the way of the cv axle. (it could just be the angle of the photo). But it would definatley be somthing to check.
Im not sure if this has been brought up already, but I didnt see it.
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(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/turbodieselswap002.jpg)
By the looks of it in the picture, that oil return line will be right in the way of the cv axle. (it could just be the angle of the photo). But it would definatley be somthing to check.
Im not sure if this has been brought up already, but I didnt see it.
Yeah that oil return needs to hug the block as much as possible.
Here's a pic of mine with a similar setup.
(http://i814.photobucket.com/albums/zz63/dawgsrepo/IMG_0410.jpg)
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that the first thing I checked guys and it's TOTALLY the angle of the picture. That line is millimeters away from the block.
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My 1z is factory fed from the sender port on the end of the head so at some point even vw thought there was enough there!
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I would be concerned about reducing the oil pressure to the rest of the drivetrain by taking oil from there, especially without a restricter.
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Well considering the fact that the factory runs a HUGE line to the turbo and I've pulled it back some from that...I'm not worried. Have any of you ever seen the size of the oil line from a factory k03...it's almost .25 I swear. This motor is not expected to have a long life anyway. I will kill it some way or another:)
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This motor is not expected to have a long life anyway. I will kill it some way or another:)
That has to be your signature. Seriously one of the best quotes here.
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it doesn't matter if I rob oil from the head or the oil filter housing...I'm still robbing oil pressure.
And I know I'm not the first to turbo a 1.5:)
It's not like this is a 20vT that suffers from sludge or something. This is just a 1.5D I got for free.
Anyway...enough doubting. I'm one of those guys that builds the *** and if it breaks...I fix it and keep going.
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when it breaks autopsy of dead parts will tell us all how to do it better next time!
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Yeah...good point. I care more for the t15 for sure:)
I have a few spare engines out back. Did any 8V gassers have larger pumps? I know for fact I have a 16V pump out back too. I just thought all 4 cyl blocks were created equal as far as oil pressure was concerned.
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Well considering the fact that the factory runs a HUGE line to the turbo and I've pulled it back some from that...I'm not worried. Have any of you ever seen the size of the oil line from a factory k03...it's almost .25 I swear. This motor is not expected to have a long life anyway. I will kill it some way or another:)
IIRC, the 1.5 motors had 26mm oil pump gears. The AAZ/1Z has 36mm oil pump gears. That's a huge difference in oil flow. It seems you might have appropriate expectations.
i used a TD oil pump whenever i did a turbo conversion.. the 1.5 engines DO have tiny little oil pumps..
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well I have a few 1.6 diesels out back. Are they any better?
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well I have a few 1.6 diesels out back. Are they any better?
i pulled 26mm pumps out of my early 1.6L engines too..
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It depends on the year. The hydro non-turbo 1.6s had 30mm pumps which are better than the 26mm pumps.
i think the n/a solid lifter engines got 26mm.
hydro n/a and solid lifter TD got 30mm pump. 30mm pump will supply enough oil for a turbo on a solid lifter engine..
hydro TD and AAZ got the 36mm pump.
pretty sure thats what came in those engines IIRC.. someone feel free to correct me if im wrong?
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Well PISS. I ordered an exhaust flange for a gt15 from atpturbo HOPING it would work and unfortunately...it's smaller than my turbos output.
WHERE can I get a flange for this turbo???
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your turbo is a K03 isnt it? different from the gasser K03 flanges?
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way different. gasser k03 hs a round output. I have plenty of those ::)
This thing has been a nightmare to find a flange for. Prothe sales one but it's a terrible for internal wastegate valve flow.
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could u drill prothes out and add more piping to improve wg flow?
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EXACTLY what I thought of doing. Kinda making a divorced wastegate setup. His setup is $65 though...I really just need the flange. Doesn't fall in my "budget."
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way different. gasser k03 hs a round output. I have plenty of those ::)
This thing has been a nightmare to find a flange for. Prothe sales one but it's a terrible for internal wastegate valve flow.
find a stock diesel downpipe?
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can't! I only have vwvortex, here, ebay, and craigslist at my disposal and haven't found any there.
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can't! I only have vwvortex, here, ebay, and craigslist at my disposal and haven't found any there.
Does it matter if its n/a? I have access to three diesels with factory down pipes. 2 NA 1.6 and 1 Mk 1 Jetta Diesel (Its a coupe!) There is a junkyard here in Fl. Ill ask him what he wants for em. Ill pull it for ya and ship it. On yer dime of course. Or maybe if ya have a spare TD IP lyin around, Ill handle it in exchange. PM me if yer interested.
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can't! I only have vwvortex, here, ebay, and craigslist at my disposal and haven't found any there.
Does it matter if its n/a? I have access to three diesels with factory down pipes. 2 NA 1.6 and 1 Mk 1 Jetta Diesel (Its a coupe!) There is a junkyard here in Fl. Ill ask him what he wants for em. Ill pull it for ya and ship it. On yer dime of course. Or maybe if ya have a spare TD IP lyin around, Ill handle it in exchange. PM me if yer interested.
he needs a downpipe for a K03 turbo, not from a n/a or TD jetta. they wont even come close to working..
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yup. I'm just going to buy a prothe downpipe and reweld it. No big deal in the end.
I'm thinking I may change course just a bit. I have a known good 1.6 NA outback that ran but had a blown headgasket. I'm thinking of pulling the head, tossing in a metal headgasket (best place to get one?), ARP studs and then tossing it back together. I like the 1.5 but I wanna get something moving with that 1.6 too. To damn many N/As around here!
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makin progress. Slashed the EGR port off, fill, tap, insert EGT. Add Spearco intake thanks to Travis and move closer to boostin another dub ;D
Showin the 16vT rabbit in the back
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel1.jpg)
mmmmm...Spearco
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel7.jpg)
Shortest boost piping ever!
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel12.jpg)
Another angle:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel16.jpg)
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man that thing is tits mcgee on there, u probably won't be able to see anything behind the valve cover aint. hell ull end up with enough room for an air/water intercooler above the intake. with the full spearco kit the factory snorkel box gets used with their air box above the intake manifold, it looks stock unless u look under the intake box.
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makin progress. Slashed the EGR port off, fill, tap, insert EGT. Add Spearco intake thanks to Travis and move closer to boostin another dub ;D
Showin the 16vT rabbit in the back
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel1.jpg)
mmmmm...Spearco
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel7.jpg)
Shortest boost piping ever!
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel12.jpg)
Another angle:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel16.jpg)
no, thats not the shortest boost piping ever.. the stock 1.6TD, and 2.0TD both use less boost piping than that. thats a friggen cool intake manifold tho..
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Well yesterday I took the diesel off the road and returned Blue to daily driver status. It's wild going from a 60hp car to a 260hp car...with a/c...:laugh:
Anyway...made a little progress today after work. Really the only big thing to do is build a downpipe but I'm waiting on a flange now. Space is limited due to the shifter but I will manage.
Here's a pic of today's progress.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel3.jpg)
Please excuse that out of place blue boot. I'm just using left over crap from the 20V build.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/TurboDiesel8.jpg)
Should be ready to go as soon as the oil pump comes in and I fab up a downpipe.:D
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look at all that real estate, you should put a tv or something back there
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LOL. After the 20V with A/C I did in my other rabbit I DID NOT want clutter. This car has had EVERYTHING deleted. No a/c, no heat, no vacuum boost, block off, no water recirculate, etc. That was another main attraction for going boosted because I wouldn't sacrifice the simplicity of the engine bay.
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well things have been slow as of late on the diesel project.
I completely revamped the oil return line though to allow 1/2 inch line all the way down. Basically I'm running a modified k03 line from a 1.8t that bolts to the pan exactly like a 1.8t. It's f'n awesome.
Today I started hacking up and rewelding my prothe downpipe. This thing was worth EVERY penny. Only one on the internet that had the flange in stock and furthermore the pipe is stainless! Now it's 100% Chinese but it's also now 100% modified in South GA.
I went from this:
(http://www.westportparts.com/images/1Z087.jpg)
to this:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/Turbodiesel9.jpg)
I have about 1/8 of a clearance from the gear selector lever when 2nd and 4th are called upon. I really was limited in room because of the lever but it came out good. If I ever go to a bigger/better turbo I would like to switch to an 02a so I could run a full three inch exhaust and not have to work about the gear linkage of an 020.
Anyway...silicone hose for the turbo to intake is ordered and by the time it arrives I should have the downpipe done. I'd like to starting daily driving this again next week but DAMN am I enjoying the a/c in the 20v rabbit:)
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when i shift to second and third i hear a ping when the shifter hits the dp ;^P looks cool
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Hey Trevor, is that my old Spearco kit that I sold to you ???.
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just an intake manifold
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Powered by Spearco - Do you have any more pieces. I would LOVE to see your rabbit if you do. I've always had a soft spot for the early aftermarket turbo kits from companies like Spearco, Callaway, BAE, Legend, etc.
I wish I would have NEVER gotten rid of my old collections :'(
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he did, he sold it all to me, he also had a bae kit he sold to a customer of his. its funny how similar the tdi turbo looks to the spearco stuff. i like the spearco kit best aesthetically because the engine bay looked stock still.
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no intercooler? ???
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From the looks he's going for a tidy simple engine bay so i doubt an intercooler will be involved in this build.
Like where it's going thus far.
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definitely no intercooler. I'm not going for big power here. I have a 16vT and 20vT for that. EGT's will be monitored and if it gets crazy...I'll pull the fuel back.
This was from the beginning a quick turbo build on a 1.6 n/a build with a STRICT budget.
Anyway....El-cheapo downpipe complete. It's made from the prothe piece and stock b5 passat 1.8t tubing. I went ahead and put the tab on so it will stabilize the exhaust hopefully so it won't crack. If it were a gasser I wouldn't care but a diesel shakes a little;)
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/downpipe2.jpg)
total investment...$65 for the flange:D
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yea, you really do need a second bracket on the downpipe to get rid of the vibrations. my downpipe never cracked or broke, but it did come loose a few different times till i built a block brace..
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EGT done. I LOVE Auber Instruments!!! Their gauges are universal and can be matched to ANY sender. My EGT is a fast response k-type and responds so nice. When I first turned the gauge on it read 88 (ambient) and quickly tracked the temp as I cranked up the car.
Anyway...the acrylic clear plastic, black plastic, and backing of a stock cluster were cut to allow the gauge to slide in. Power is robbed from the cluster and feeds of the 15 circuit.
Cool thing is they make their gauges with three different color LED's but I opted for green to keep the OG look:laugh:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/EGT1.jpg)
With the key on:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/EGT4.jpg)
The flash made that 1 look a little yellow but I assure you it is green. You can set an alarm too and it will flash red when you reach that pre-determined point.
I'm pissed I don't have the silicone hose here because she is ready to go. ::)
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(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/EGT4.jpg)
HOLY CRAP! low miles mk1 cluster!
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probably broke dude. I grabbed it from the pile because the acrylic was nice and it was a diesel one. I'm tired of seeing the gasoline only decal in the old cluster :P
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i used paper to cover mine, and i use the full gti cluster with work tacho, unless i tell people they have no idea that its even covered
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v306/Trev0rbr/DSCN0542.jpg)
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also my odometer is lower than yours ;D its at 120k now tho haha
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how did you get the GTI tach to work?
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how about a AWIC?
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AWIC. Have you ever installed one? Do you realize how much CRAP that adds and how EXPENSIVE a good AWIC setup is.
I have a BADASS AWIC setup on my 20V and it makes the AIC I have in my 16vT look like childs play.
AWIC = intercooler, cooling radiator, holding tank, water pump, relay for the pump, wiring, hose to get the water flowing etc. It's a nightmare and TOTALLY not what I want in this project.
Just for laughs and giggles...here's my AWIC setup in my 20V rabbit: Remember...the intercooler in this picture cost MORE than the ENTIRE turbo install on this diesel
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/20V046.jpg)
pump in the back:
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/20V068.jpg)
tank
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/20V069.jpg)
radiator out front for the AWIC
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/PrettyBlue011.jpg)
and here you can see the AWIC in the bay
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/PrettyBlue013.jpg)
might as well throw in the video of it working.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PC8lFoZShmE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PC8lFoZShmE)
SO...as to keep with the theme of this car...budget turbo build...no intercooler will ever be thought of. VW didn't think it was prudent for their lowly 1.6td in the mk1/2...neither do I. ;D
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cool.
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Well hot damn! I'm finished...for now...until the governor mod!
Anyway...took the now turbo diesel around the block and immediately noticed I could NOT blow black smoke. EGT's would get up to 1200 if I tried hard but 1000 was the norm under a load. No increase in power according to the butt dyno but definitely a ton of spooling.
I turned up the fuel screw 1/2 turn and it definitely got quicker but still no black smoke. EGTs went up slightly.
Picked up an oil leak but otherwise the car drives just as it did before except the badass spooling sound.
When I get back from vacation I plan to do the governor mod and continue playing with the little guy.
Overall...GREAT investment seeing as how I did it with less than $400.
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maybe driving that 20v has squed your butt dyno from detecting a 10hp difference ;D ;D ;D good luck, perhaps with more fuel you will get good results with that small turbo. i think that turbo should be a good match for a dd 1.6
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well last night I for a nice drive and I absolutely love the upgrade.
two things I've noticed.
1. If I FLOOR it I can get to 1400 degrees but I shift and it will drop instantly. I still have no black smoke though.
2. It's definitely faster. I took a turn I do everyday in second gear and punched it and it was amazing how much it accelerated compared to before.
I'm wondering if I should even do the governor mod since I can already melt the engine at it's current condition.
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That's my problem with the N/A pump on my 1.6 w/turbo, I have it cranked to get enough fuel to make boost, but it smokes like crazy when not under boost and EGT's are high. Plus my boost response is worse than a 3071 on a 1.8T. :P Proper TD pump is the best way to go, not enough fuel to smoke when not under boost but plenty of enrichment once boost hits. I had a TD pump on it for a couple of weeks until it started to leak so I had to put the NA one back on.
Brendan
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i don't know that the governor mod will increase egts, it could tho because u will be getting more fuel up top, and you will be moving more air when u rev higher so there will be more back pressure
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That's my problem with the N/A pump on my 1.6 w/turbo, I have it cranked to get enough fuel to make boost, but it smokes like crazy when not under boost and EGT's are high. Plus my boost response is worse than a 3071 on a 1.8T. :P Proper TD pump is the best way to go, not enough fuel to smoke when not under boost but plenty of enrichment once boost hits. I had a TD pump on it for a couple of weeks until it started to leak so I had to put the NA one back on.
Brendan
I have no smoke...EVER.
When it was NA I had black smoke while accelerating hard only.
Now it never smokes. Off or on boost but it runs great with more speed for sure. I'll definitely be doing the governor mod ASAP.
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That's my problem with the N/A pump on my 1.6 w/turbo, I have it cranked to get enough fuel to make boost, but it smokes like crazy when not under boost and EGT's are high. Plus my boost response is worse than a 3071 on a 1.8T. :P Proper TD pump is the best way to go, not enough fuel to smoke when not under boost but plenty of enrichment once boost hits. I had a TD pump on it for a couple of weeks until it started to leak so I had to put the NA one back on.
Brendan
I have no smoke...EVER.
When it was NA I had black smoke while accelerating hard only.
Now it never smokes. Off or on boost but it runs great with more speed for sure. I'll definitely be doing the governor mod ASAP.
governor mod will make it smoke more, but turning the throttle lever a couple splines, and screwing the fuel screw in about 3 more turns, then you will be able to pour coals like i do.. i got a n/a fuel pump with a VNT in front of it, and it smokes off boost, but i like it, really gets the message across to the tail gaters..
i can still not make ANY SMOKE on boost tho.. none at all. once my boost gauge comes up off the 0 peg, its smokeless.. (even with the tank of HIGH SULFUR DIESEL that im running right now..
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well I tried rotating the arms...no go.
I rotated the arm 1 click right and when she cranked the motor went IMMEDIATLEY into full throttle mode. Tried pulling the idle back but no go...got scared so I stopped.
I rotated it the other way and it started fine. Cranked up the fuel two turns to get a good idle. Thought it was good until I took it for a ride. Between gears it would run up and not come back down.
Gave up and went to stock arm setting, fuel screw in 1 turn, idle ALL the way down.
That seems to be the best right now but I still have no smoke. It's awesome though. SO much more peppy!!!
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I think I'm tracking now.
So the second time I rotated the lever I had the right orientation...just turned up the max fuel to much to increase the idle.
I'm still learning. I LOVE how tough this bastard is. Try giving 15psi to a gasser and not having the fuel PERFECT...good by engine!
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i did like 2 splines.. and my idle screw takes care of my idle at all times. even when you screw the fuel screw in soo far that its making the RPMs hang..
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Well I'm in LOVE.
Gov mod complete, rotate 1 spline CCW, stock boost (no idea what it is for this wastegate), 1.5 rotations on the fuel screw. Full 2.25 exhaust with Magnaflow muffler.
Starts and idles perfect. Reliability was not affected. Runs awesome and pulls HARD. Will pull till the EGT's hit melting piston time.
My friend who has a bone stock 1.6 with a giles pump was REALLY impressed. Almost to point of opening his pump to do the gov mod.
I can't really add any more fuel though because EGT's are maxed out. I'd like to do water injection or maybe one day add an intercooler.
Either way...as Bush said...Mission Complete
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awesome to hear, you should do one of those cool water meth injection systems where you use boost pressure to squirt water into the inlet of the turbo. very simple, very cool. also, ur friend with a giles pump should already have the gov mod done, i would imagine
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Well I'm in LOVE.
Gov mod complete, rotate 1 spline CCW, stock boost (no idea what it is for this wastegate), 1.5 rotations on the fuel screw. Full 2.25 exhaust with Magnaflow muffler.
Starts and idles perfect. Reliability was not affected. Runs awesome and pulls HARD. Will pull till the EGT's hit melting piston time.
My friend who has a bone stock 1.6 with a giles pump was REALLY impressed. Almost to point of opening his pump to do the gov mod.
I can't really add any more fuel though because EGT's are maxed out. I'd like to do water injection or maybe one day add an intercooler.
Either way...as Bush said...Mission Complete
your mission was to stay cheap.. and you can find intercoolers cheap off other cars. a 90s turbo eclipse intercooler is ideal. there are plenty of others that fit too. SRT4 and PT croozer intercoolers also fit decent. i have a tiny mazda millenia intercooler on my rabbit..
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new mission....a/c.
After driving the turbo diesel a couple hours round trip with a trailer in tow AND with the family in the car, we picked up an oak table and 6 chairs and hauled butt home. About 10mins into the trip...I decided enough was enough and today I started in on installing a/c.
What that meant was pulling the original GTI wiring harness that has been HACKED after 7 motor swaps. I installed a harness from an 81 or 82 Rabbit L diesel 2dr with a/c that I've been holding onto. Tomorrow I will start on installing the a/c hardware.
What I find funny is that I pulled the a/c on this car about 8 years ago because I wanted the original JH to be a little faster. Over the years the car transformed and more shiz was pulled. Can't believe I'm putting it all back in.
But yeah...new mission - I want a blizzard to come out of the vents and give a big f-u to the great ball of fire in the sky.
more to come.
Jason