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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ShoulderMan on April 12, 2011, 05:44:28 pm
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Im wondering if anyone else has ran into this problem.
I just bought a boost guage and as soon as i connected the line, the needle erraticly moves back and forth untill postitive boost pressure kicks in, as soon as im not boosting, it starts erraticly moving again.
I have it connected to the intake manifold nipple, where you would run the line to a turbo Injection pump.
any ideas?
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all diesels make the needle dance on the 0 needle peg. live with it or get a gauge with vacuum so theres no peg to bounce against... lol
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Many folks put a restrictor in-line to reduce the buzzing... for example, VDO sells a tee with one built in, or you can use an inline fuel filter.
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The restrictor doesn't work that great in my experience. I have found the quietest boost gauge to be a gasser one that has vacuum as well. Of course the vacuum side isn't used (unless you had a terribly clogged air filter).
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I don't have any buzzing or jumping with my gauge sence I put in one of those little fittings that ECS tunning sells. $6 but makes all the differance.
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I have a guage with both boost and vacuum.
what fitting from ECS tuning works? Ill have to try that. or the ...inline fuel filter, havent heard of that one yet, but hey, if it works.
I also noticed, for the first time... I am only getting 5lbs of boost, 10 at high revs (4Krpm), and below 5lbs for normal driving. is this where the extra fuel is needed to boost higher?
I am using a non turbo IP, and have not adjusted the fuel setting, mainly for the lack of an EGT guage. .. I have a k14 from a mk3.
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mine used to do that when the engine was winding down, i read about putting a small filter in, perhaps for a fish tank, and that was supposed to help, i think the problem is that most of these are designed to work with a tiny plastic line and a compression fitting, and most people use vacuum line
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I see. well I am using the plastic line that came with the kit, maybe i need more restriction, well, Ill try the filter and see what that does.. the T fitting is just that with a smaller out.. I have one of thoes with out the extra leg, so its an L with a larger inlet and smaller outlet. Ill see which one works best... or use both.. and report back.
Thanks
-Ron
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Get the filter end of a cigarette, unwrap it and stuff the material into the gauge pipe. The engine end of the gauge pipe is best, just don't restrict the flow to the injection pump spaceship. If it still buzzes, keep stuffing until satisfied. Worked like a charm.
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Where did you mount it? It could well be vibrations from the engine that's making it move. I fitted mine where the 12V is in the console and it doesn't move at all during idle :)
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I used a 0.6mm mig welding tip in my boost line to the gauge - stopped the vibes/ticking perfectly on a VDO gauge ;D ;D ;D
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I has said ECS tuning before but its 42Draft designs. They're $6.
I do like the cig. filter idea and the welding tip.
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I tried the welding tip .020 but it was still to big, I tried the filter, and that didnt work too well for me either, I ended up using a hose conector from napa with a reducer built in, Probably like the one at ECS or 42Draft designs, and that did the trick. cost about 5.50, and no more bouncing.
Thanks for all the help and advice.
-Ron
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My Isspro gauge starts at 2, no bouncing.
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autometer starts reading at 1 and no sketchiness :D