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General Information => General => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on March 21, 2011, 07:57:16 pm
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Looks like I need to do a clutch on my bro's 91 TD swap.
I have never done a clutch to begin with yet alone a backwards clutch on a vw. I need the cheapest way to get by on this one. He is in school and this car is his main transportation for about a 1500km week..
We will need to do it in a day or two on the weekend.. What the hell is with prices on my local Canadian site?! $1000 for basic clutch kit!?
Diameter: 7-7/8"; Spline Diameter: 13/16; 24 Splines; 200mm
This is what I need yes :) ?
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I got my clutch for my wife's 91 Jetta gas job for like 90 bucks, clutch, pressure plate, release disc, and another 40 for rear main seal, pushrod bushing, seal, axle flange seals, and some various other parts. $1000 is outrageous.
I easily could've done it in a day if it didn't take me 3 hours to pound the axle flange's off the tranny. Took 3 men, a big hammer, and a few curse words to get them off. I did have the new clutch mounted and centered, all seals replaced, etc. The 2nd day was just bolting it back in.
It should be a 200mm clutch, yes.
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You can get a good Sachs kit (disc, pp, grease, release bearing, and pilot tool) for about $100-140. You'll want all new bolts too: pp to crank, flywheel to PP. They're cheap too. As Coke noted, you'll MINIMALLY want to replace the input shaft and push-rod seals. The flange seals can be changed later if you don't have the special too (or want to make one, they're stupid simple).
You're looking at about $200 bux.
A couple of tips on the job if you do it off jack stands:
1) Make sure the car is properly supported (DUH! Winning!)
2) Support the motor with a floor jack. Don't fool around with a bottle jack: you risk getting hurt.
3) Slip a scissor jac between the back of the motor and the rear subframe, and crank the motor towards the front of the car. Also, you'll need to lower the motor down to clear the rear-subframe when you remove/install.
4) To remove the trans, you will have to swing the backside of the trans towards the firewall to clear the drive-flange on the passenger side of the trans (unless you remove it). I usually have to swing it back, and then rotate it counter-clockwise.
5) Have an empty tire on the floor for the trans to land on if you drop it.
Have fun. Too bad you don't have a MK1. It's a lot easier.
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Yeah was just on Autpartsway.ca and a couple hundred bucks is all you should be paying.
Where were you looking??
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Thanks guys, I was on autopartsway, I guess it didnt have my settings (that i entered on the side) as the criteria.. So it was showing me an identical looking clutch for some other car.. for $1000 just for the pp and disk :O omgawd.
In reality, the cheaper the better (right now) if I have to pull the trans again to do seals later so be it.. I know this is the worst attitude.. but its like not even funny. lol He lives 300km from here going to school, I'd have to drive there to help and it needs to be done on a weekend so i can get back for work and he can go to school monday morning.. and then! Limited income.. :(
so in reality.. do the seals really need to be touched right now ? Also are the bolts TTY? or can they be reused? this is not a fire breathing 1.6.. just a stock 1.6td
It is in an mk1 :D Its a 91 td swapped in to an 84 lol, I didnt want to confuse at the beginning of my post
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I'd highly recommend replacing the pushrod bushing and seal, and have the input shaft and rear crank seals on hand at least. The pushrod bushing wears over time which allows the seal to leak which in turn can soak your clutch in oil causing it to slip. That's why mine was slipping on this car. Get a couple pushrod seals in case you screw one up. Broke has good info for bushing/seal re & re on his site...it really doesn't take long. Bentley says to always replace pp bolts, flywheel to pp bolts are not really necessary but FYI you will need a 9 mm 12 pt socket for them.
You should easily be able to get it all done in a day, especially with help.
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And if you do reuse them make sure you Lock-Tight them, the brand new bolts VW that I got had Lock Tight on them, so you would definitely want it if you are putting used bolts back in.
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It is in an mk1
Much easier, IMO. Almost a pleasure, by comparison.....
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PUlling the trans I have done a few times for swaps. Its just the actual clutch I have never touched. Does anyone have a good HOW-to or w.e saved on the actual workings on the inside of the clutch?
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Red or blue loctite??
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HEY QUICK QUESTION. All the clutch parts are what need to match right.. Can i put a 210mm disk and PP under the stock flywheel.. or how does that work
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If you are going for cheap and easy.
You probably don't have to change the pressure plate,
the only reason to remove it is to replace the rear main seal,.. which is a hassle to get in straight.
and if you don't change it, you won't have to buy the new bolts,.. with the blue lock tite.
But you do have to change the push rod tube seal,
that is probably why you have to change the clutch to begin with.
It leaks and dumps trany fluid right into the center of the clutch disc,.. to be spun out ontot he rest of the disc.
That seal is almost always the reason the clutch slips.
I knew one guy who had it slip because of a hole in the trany.
He didn't have another disc and his still had plenty of meat so has washed it with gas and reused it.
It was very slippery at first but the oil did burn off and he had a good clutch again.
In fact, if this is being changed because it is slipping,
and if you really want to be a cheap bastard, that's probably all you will have to change,.. just the push rod tube seal and bushing.
Depending on how worn the clutch disc looks.
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if you have a 200mm flywheel, you must use 200mm clutch and PP
if you have a 210mm flywheel, you can use 8v, or 16v pressure plates..
ive got an 8v 210mm disk, mk2 8v FW, and 16v PP in my car.. hooks up good.
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I am down where my bro is living now, and we are fully set to do the clutch tomorrow.
We took it for a short drive, at 70kmh in 4th or 5th once warm it will slip the clutch. thats only 2200rpm. Not any outrageous fueling or boost at 2200... It held up fine when it was still cold, didnt start to slip till it got warm.. Doesnt seem like its a seal dumping on the clutch, but i will have to get it apart to know for sure. It just seems like the clutch has had its day.
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good luck,
I once pulled a huge favor and stopped by ON A ROAD TRIP to put a clutch in my older brothers toyota, never touched a toyota before, but it went ok, nothing like rushing a job you know next to nothing about, lol.
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I'm the epitome of cheap, and I'd change the seals and bushing.. Even if you're doing a cheap job with just a disc just to get by... It's very surprising how little oil it take to make a new clutch slip... :-\
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Went with a full kit. Disc, pp, TO, end cap, release plate and clip. Also going to do both seals, and the push rod bushing. As well as a new rod. All in all about $200.
Not too shabby really. Worst part was wrestling the trans out! Lol
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good luck,
I once pulled a huge favor and stopped by ON A ROAD TRIP to put a clutch in my older brothers toyota, never touched a toyota before, but it went ok, nothing like rushing a job you know next to nothing about, lol.
my cousin has a 94 chevy 1500 4.3 V6/5 spd manual..
i had never touched one before, but his clutch took a dump the night before we were supposed to go hunting for 2 weeks.. needless to say, we had the trans on the ground a couple hours after it went out, and we got a new clutch in the morning.. we were only about 6 hours behind schedule once we were all the way done, didnt even lose a whole day..
needless to say, i got a crash course in clutch jobs on a chevy pickup.. those needle pilot bearings are a BEOTCH to get out. especialy when you break the needles, and they HAVE to come out..