VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: shwak23 on March 17, 2011, 09:27:02 pm
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So i'm getting a 1980 Rabbit 1.6 Diesel tomorrow for free. ;D It's pretty minty and has had a lot of work done but as far as I know the motor heats up and the coolant res. pressurizes fairly quickly which is bad... :-\ How ever she just had the head-gasket and the head swapped supposedly by a guy in Rhode Island after she blew the head-gasket. Any ideas? ??? ??? [I don't know a ton of info about this car I haven't even had a chance to look at it except for pictures.]
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Sounds like the HG is still leaking..
Could be that the head is cracked or warped.. IF it still has it's original engine is could be quite likely the block is cracked.. Most likely you're looking at pulling the head again to investigate..
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Well that's the thing supposedly it has a new head. But i'm not sure. I guess I was hoping there might be something else. Is there anything else that could produce these symptoms?
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How fast is it building pressure?? Within a minute of starting?? Not too much else that can build pressure right off other than compression leaks..
The other question would be what is a "new" head.. If you still have the original 1.5 in the car it would be some variety of reman, or a rebuilt used head, or just a really clean used head.. Could have been a dud, could have been installed wrong..
And the head could be fine, as I mentioned earlier the early diesels had problems with blocks cracking.. Not what you want to hear I'm sure, but I'm throwing it out there..
Do you have any idea for sure what engine is in the car?
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I'm pretty sure it's a 1.6 with a 5speed trans. So I'm sure it's not an original engine but i'm not entirely sure if the head was swapped or just the gasket. I don't really care what it is. I have plenty of time to go over it, but it would be sweet to discover something stupid like air in the radiator was causing the problem and boom I have a running car for free.
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Get the code from the engine block, and we can help you identify exactly which engine you have.. It can be found here:
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/VW/blockcode.jpg)
Air trapped in the coolant system isn't a huge issue with these.. Can't hurt to check things out good though.. A compression test or more so a leak down test (if you have access to the tools) would tell the tale best..
In the mean time check out the FAQ, lots of good info about this on there...
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Oh i've checked the FAQ many times... It's what I read when I don't have anything else to do or the weather is too bad to actually do work. Or if i'm just procrastinating work... Like right this moment.
Well the car is coming tomorrow morning so I should be able to get some more info. But after reading some more is there any chance that the cooling system is plugged up? I mean particularly if all this work has been done on it perhaps it stirred up mad sediment and needs a flush? I was just wondering if this sort of thing would display the same sort of symptoms.
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Or if i'm just procrastinating work... Like right this moment.
Yup, know all about that.. ;D
A blockage could cause some issues.. The determining factor is going to be how fast it builds pressure.. If it happens within the first min or 2 of running it has to be compression leaking... Otherwise that's not enough time to heat things up to build pressure.. IF it takes 5 mins or so then I'd go looking at things like blockages and water pumps not working... Keep up posted on what you find when you get your fingers on it..
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(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww106/shwak23/1172934869_photobucket_41279_.jpg)
Here she is finally home.
(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww106/shwak23/1172934869_photobucket_41295_.jpg)
Here are some pictures of the writing on the block
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More
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(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww106/shwak23/1172934869_photobucket_41301_.jpg)
It started right up but it doesn't currently have any coolant in the res. and it has a leak where the inj. lines go into the injector... So i'm gonna have to sort that out... Kinda hoping I don't have to re head gasket it.
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That is sweet!! Love the yellow...
For diagnostic purposes you could just fill the cooling system with water and see what happens...
Is the fuel leak from the steel injector line, or the little return hoses?? The little return hoses can be a bugger.. If it was old hose removed and re installed they usually won;t seal unless you cut a tad off the end of them, or best yet replace them.. The steel lines can be overtightened and distorted which will cause them to leak.. OR it may just not be seated in there properly..
The number you will need for the engine is pretty much right behind the bypass hose that comes from the head to the water pump.. There will be a flat spot on the block where's it's stamped.. It's kind of a bugger to see...
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sweet, it used to be a Vegi car.. :(
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Here is what I posted on VWDIESELPARTS Just provides a little history of the car and my own experience. I don't want anyone wasting their time telling me to buy a Bentley ;) ;D
It's snowing today so I haven't had a chance to get the code off the block but I will!
Edit: It's still a veggie car... If I can find teh veggie... and filter it... ugh... ;D
Well. Let me tell you all I know about this engine and some more about my experience. You guys gave me some excellent answers but if my op had been clearer you could skip a little. I do have a Bently.
This is my third VW Diesel. I had a '85 Diesel Golf for 6-7 months that ran like a top and rusted through the winter. I eventually sold it back to VW when I happened to ask if I had any recalls on the vehicle. Stealership told me that the Gas Tank was recalled and after attempting to find me a gas tank they decided to just buy the car from me. I got $1000 for it. I paid $500 and put $0 into it.
With my 1k I bought my current car which is a 1990 VW Golf Diesel that I blew up by putting to much oil in... I then had my friend swap in a Quantum 1.6 Turbo Diesel Motor. (yes it was a pain in the ass.)
My newest car is obviously this Rabbit. It was owned by a woman in MA that paid someone to fix it up to be her daily driver. She then drove it daily. Then she blew the head gasket and sent it to said mechanic and he supposedly fixed it. Then she drove it home and it started showing symptoms of a blown head gasket... According to her it happened within the first 50 miles. She took it back to him multiple times and he kept insisting that the car was perfect and then accused her of ruining the car on the way home just to mess with him.
I haven't ran it long enough for it to heat up because one of the injectors is leaking and I don't have any coolant to pour in it... I kinda like that dye idea. It sounds exciting. I have some tools and some people who might be able to guide me a little but basically I work in my driveway. If I have to pull the head then that's fine i'll figure it out. I could buy a head gasket... Perhaps some other things. I'd love to be able to get this driving for under $300. [Obv if the head/block is toast i'll get new ones but it'll just take more time/$$$.]
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Don't worry too much about the fuel leak for now.. It would suck to get that fixed then find that you have to rip it all back apart to do a HG.. No use wasting antifreeze if you have to drain it right away to fix something.. Fill 'er up with water, run 'er and see what you got.. Won't hurt a thing as long as you don;t let the water in there for freezing temps....
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(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww106/shwak23/1172934869_photobucket_41494_.jpg)
It's a little too cold today to be using water as coolant. Up here in Maine ya know?
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Looks a bit too cold to be doing much of anything.. :P Let me rephrase that to use water on a nicer day, then drain it when you have your verdict..
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It was certainly too cold to be spreading gravel on the, now frozen, mud ruts in my driveway. ::) Oh well I guess it had to be done. ;D
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http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/head_gasket_or_combustion_leak_test.htm
Is something like this going to show me if the head gasket is bad? I know this particular one is for GAS only but obv I'd get the diesel one. Is there a cheaper way of determining this information? Or some sort of homemade device that uses the same liquid? I'd rather spend $30 then $50-$60.
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Starting it, and seeing how fast it builds pressure is your cheapest, and pretty darned reliable way of checking.. With 23:1 compression, if the gasket is leaking, it'll build pressure real quick!
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The pressure will build very rapidly if the block is cracked as well though. If it takes a while to get hot check your radiator for cool spots, waterpump, thermostat etc. if it gets hot in a matter of seconds its combustion gases.
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This is a small update I posted over at VWDIESELPARTS
Well even though I have no new updates as far as testing this I do have the original emails from the mechanic.
The block seems excellent,with no ridges at all on the cylinder walls.I beleive it is remanufactured because it looks fairly new,even the paint.Spent the whole day on it yesterday and will have it done sometime today.Couple other minor but important things you need are an air filter,and an oil baffle whicks sits on top of the cam shaft and prevents oil from getting into the intake manifold(where the air filter sits).Good news is that i need get it running late yesterday and the cooling system is working fine.I just have to re-torque the head and put all the guards and such back on.Thn i will chech the wiring to see what caused thes problem in the first place.Got to get some more coffee,Walter
.I also replaced your brake booster,repaired your ebrake,in the process of replacing the lower adjustment bracket for your alt. belt(it was cracked),changed the oil and filter,fuel return lines and more,including the baffle and air. filter.
,I already fixed the cooling fan(engine) and noticed the interior one wasn't working.[MY NOTES – IT WORKED, I THOUGHT, NEVER HAD AN ISSUE BEFORE HE HAD CAR] I will check that stuff out today and try and fix the most important stuff(defroster needs to work in the winter).The reason i do all of my emailing in the morning is becuase i don't have any interuptions and can concentrate fully.Talk to u later,XXXXX PS( i beleive the broken bracket might have been what caused your problem since it does also run the waterpump)
.I installed a new power wire for your heater motor,yours had a short somewhere.Removed the 2 passanger door handles and greased them(white lithium grease)and the inner part of the latch assembly.Greased the outer latches on the drivers side doors.Installed a new bracket for your grease lines under the car,they were hanging down under the passengers door.Put and additional 12 or so wire ties on the grease hoses,they were rubbing the frame in some places.Spent 1 hour trying to figure out the radio but got stumped.I think the radio is shot.Installed all new injector return lines,yours were mismatch and old.Replaced the broken alt. bracket,there is a better setup available its just to cold to locate rights now.Re-installed the horn wires,they were disconnected.Repaced the downpipe exhaust gasket and installed new hardware.Installed faster glow plugs 12 seconds and a new glowplug relay.Interior lights seem fine,mabe by fixing some of the other electrical problems they fixed themselves.Repaired one of your passenger door moldings,it was starting to come off.Installed the original vent window and put on some really good two part adhesive,hopefully it will work.Lubricated all the shifting linkage,inside and out, plus the hood latch and truck latch.I gave it a short test drive and it runs super for the year.The shifter now works like it came straight from the dealer,i also tighten one of the linkage pieces that was loose under the center of the vehicle.I am sure there are some things i forgot but i covered most of it.All the addition work came to an extra $400 but was well worth it and will save you additional problem down the road.The glowplug relay costs over $60 new,and the glowplugs were used but in excellent condition.
And some more info from the PO.
This is when I went down there, drove 5 miles, and the car stopped on the highway.
It then became a 4+ month battle . . . 5 times back to the shop. I never managed to drive it more than home and back – sometimes not even that.
In the course of this, he also claims he also replaced the fuel pump, starter, solenoid (Ithink?), changed the grease switch around (he had reversed it by accident, so I asked him to put it back), replaced the vent window (fell out on the highway on the way home and smashed), and did a bunch of other little stuff.
Pretty sure this car hasn't been run on Grease it just has the grease system.
Update... The Injector line is broken. It broke off just above the flare. I have to fix that before I can even run this thing warm.
Anyone got a used line? I need the second one from the right.
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I've found checking for a steady stream of bubbles to be far more objective than observing how quickly the hoses pressurize.
Remove the pressure cap and fill the reservoir right to the top with fresh water. Start the engine and watch for a constant stream of bubbles to rise to the top of the coolant reservoir. Check at various RPMs as well. You may need to pinch off the radiator return hose to keep from making a mess.
Chris
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Sorry about the lack of updates.
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My attentions
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have sort of
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shifted suddenly...... ;D
(http://i710.photobucket.com/albums/ww106/shwak23/1172934869_photobucket_43079_.jpg)
Who says you can't rent an apartment and own parts cars?
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Rabbits do tend to multiply quickly.. ;D I bought my first one for $100 bucks.. By the end of that week I had 4 sitting around..
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well um, now that you have three, you need to keep them apart. If you don't you'll have 6.
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need to throw a couple 2 door cars in the mix too..
then maybe we will have 3 door rabbits.
or throw in a passat wagon, then we could have rabbit wagons!
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Well I relocated the Rabbits to my new er.. Work area. In a clearing in the woods. I'm pulling the red ones engine to put in the white one I think... Although the white one needs all that surface rust cleaned up. I don't really have any idea how to do that. I've avoided body work like the plague for years. The yellow one is really clean but I think it's going to have to be used for parts. I'll probably sell the shell.
Once I get the white one on the road... My MKII golf goes under the knife for a tranny swap and some body work and some interior work...sigh... The previous owner left a gasser trans in there when he converted it to diesel. ::) ???