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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: therabbittree on January 16, 2006, 08:06:18 am
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yup, I got her running on sunday and I've been using to and from work... Got some issues to fix...
First the oil pressure doesn't go above 25Lbs ever... not even on a cold start..i tried a mechanical gauge and same thing just about 2 lbs higher reading then my electrical guage..I had the head port at first, then i tried the oil filter pad and same thing..kinda weird..the oil pressure stays between the first tick and 25 on a autometer silver faced 2 1/16" gauge..so i imagine between 5 or 10 to 25Lbs... I'm not digging that too much if you rev it the oil pressure doesn't change either..i'm running delvac 1 too..any Ideas?.. I plan to drop pan tommarrow and check the oil pump releif valve..i may play with that...how much oil pressure can a hydraulic lifter engine take?.... I like the old solid lifter 1.6 diesels 60 psi easy driving and 90 -100 on start up... i think thats too much for a hyradulic lifter.. no?... oh another note this engine as a AN oil line feeding the turbo from the oil filer pad to the turbo its a # 4 an.. I don't thing the stock metal line has a restrictor but I'm not 100 percent sure...
Second.. this 12 mmm injection pump i had Piers in B.C. build ran awesome on my 1.6L TD .. not on the tdi with the .260 race kerma nozzles and with the pump turned up as much as i can adjust..it still doesn't smoke...maybe a small see - though intial puff but thats all..on the 1.6 if i loaded the engine I could fog a solid trail constantly behind me that would totally block two lanes of traffic I have ticket to prove it ha...I'm not sure what the problem is..it drives like it has a ton of torque down low ( blows the hides off through 3rd gear...) but any where near mid rpm and high it has no pull.. so not too inpressive. My 2001 golf tdi with eth same injectors smoked a lot moreand was way faster...argh.. my kkk24 with closed waste gate only pulls 20lbs boost now ..so there is a fuel shortage. I even have aelectrical lift pump to help feed pressure and that has little difference in performance if its on or off...I'm not sure if the pump output pressure can be turned up more some how or what... I thought a plunger swap did that?..any how I have a complete extra cummins 4bt 12mm plunger pump sitting here but the gov is different..ie lower like 2400 rpm max or something... I think joe changed his gov to a vw style ..how did you do it any pics?..is it the same as the vw one?.. I though the cummins gov was different then vw?...or should I adjust my injector break pressure lower?.... not sure what to do there...I can drive it with lower power but the oil pressure is a priority I need to figure out..... I will post pics soon.. I didn't use a intercooler yet ..but I have guages pre turbo egt hasn't gone over 1100 yet and she cruises down the highway at 65mph at 800 egt with a early ff tranny in 5th gear....so the egt isn't an issue until i get the pump figured out..I will be either modifing a air to air or making a air to water..not too sure yet....
Thanks
Deo
\x/ hillfolk!
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Deo,
Good to hear you have it running...sorry to hear that you have a few issues.
As far as your low oil pressure readings. I personally am stumped on that one. You asked about this before elsewhere (asking where the best place to take a reading was...), I'd really look for checking the oil pump though as that pressure is quite low for a hydraulic motor.
Is this a used TDI motor or rebuilt?
As far as your power/pump issues. The problem def. lies within the pump. A couple questions for you then. When Piers built this pump which camplate did they use? A 1.6 unit? A TDI unit? Or the cummins 4bt unit. Some in depth reading into the Bosch fuel injection pump manual as well as some new info that Jake and I were able to come across suggests that pump plunger/camplate/head selection should all be done in tie with each other to work the best. In other words, if you have a 12mm head in your pump, you wouldn't want to use the 10mm heads plunger assembly springs for the best results, etc. Also, 12mm head alone will not "bump" injection pressures as high as a TDI would like them. Thinking about those that have used a stock 1.6TD pump on there TDI's, the stock TD pump turned up as high as it will go will only fuel the TDI to run at its lowest performance state. So, again..i can't remember... is this a 1.6TD pump with the 1.6TD aneroid, etc. with the 12mm swap or is it a different pump base as well? Another consider in the future will be your driveshaft for the pump. If it is the 1.6TD's they have been known to break in other applications (was reading on a Seat forum the other night), especially with the 12mm head on there. With our 12mm pump heads we'll be doing timing belt changes alot more frequently (about 20k less than what factory recommends) due to the extra wear on the belt the 12mm head will result in.
Whats all this mean? Well...fueling pressure should be close to there with the 12mm head, however what camplate selection did you use in the pump? There is alot of different between the IDI camplate and the TDI/DI specific units. In example, looking at a TDI camplate (10mm pump) vs. the 4bt camplate (12mm pump) there is alot of extra "lift" provided on the 4bt's camplate....about 20% more if I had to guess on it while the "curve" looks relatively the same as the TDI pump. I wish I still had the pic but it was lost on my other computer when it crashed. The IDI camplates are much lower, and quite different looking. Best result with the IDI camplate would be one from a 1.9AAZ unit.
Another consideration (though a smaller one) is what boost pin your running in the LDA, etc? Are you running the stock 1.6TD one or something else there?
As far as the governor swap in the 4bt pump. Yes, you are right...they use a single spring "variable speed" gov. whereas the VW mechanical pumps use a caged "min/max speed" gov. The swap was fairly straightforward and easy for me to do and in doing so I am able to use the complete Cummins pump top, with its boost pin, etc. The biggest problem to overcome is the throttle shaft bushing that is in the cummins pump vs. that which is in the 1.6TD pump. To swap the gov.'s over and have them fit you must also swap the throttle shaft bushings or machine the cummins bushing a bit has it is "taller" than the VW TD's. I pressed out the bushings from the two respective pumps and used the VW pumps bushing in the cummins top and then swapped over the entire gov. assembly , etc. Was very simple and clean as well. Karl who tested the pump for me back when i first got it (before any gov. swaps) on his Vanagon TDI synchro initally tried the Cummins gov. setup on the pump... It ran like a bat out of hell when it it 2k...boost surged, van took off but it all cut out around 3200k or so if i remember just because of the way that gov. is made to work. At the time he had a hybrid pump that he had made and was getting ready to go on a big trip and swapped a 11mm which got toasted. The cummins pump was sitting there and he swapped the top (gov. and all) from another TD pump and used that. Ran flawlessly out to the PNW from MD without issue. Lots of power, and he actual has smoke issues that he has beens solving. Loves the power though and it was such a better solution over the hybrids that he had before. Once the min/max gov is swapped in, there are no issues with rpm cutoffs and the power is quite linear and nice. I can't wait to try mine with the cummins top, etc. and with the airflow improvements I've made as well as the new pistons...things should be quite fun.
I do have pics here of my swap. I'm waiting to receive a seal kit for my 4bt pump before I put "everything" back together but right now its sitting downstairs with the new gov. and throttle shaft installed in the cummins top... I'll see if I can dig the pics out and post them tonight or something...
Joe
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thanks for the reply joe.. well im pretty fed up and burnt out from doing all of the is crap...ha..I may even put the passat tdi back on the road and drive it a while while I work out the bugs in the pickup. We want to sell the passat tdi wagon because it only has 85k or so on it and it is nice shape. I took it off th eroad so it wouldn't be messed up in the winter and we just bought that 2003 eurovan......any how back to the pickup...
Oil pressure issue is reall bugger..not sure about that..this engine was from a running '98 tdi a friend of mine had it only has 150 k on it.. he was the only owner and did all his own maintenance and oil changes delvac 1etc..it ran fine.. his son moved it in his drive way and let the ebrake off and not in gear. His drive way is a large hill..you get the picture..it rolled backwards into a tree...totalled the car..but drive line was still mint infact he drove it to my house..he never had any oil lights or oil problems..i didn't rebuild it i just did the headgasket and oil seals and repainted it...so oil problem is a mystery to me...argh
as for the fuel pump I gave piers a cummins 4bt and avw 1.6TD pump and saidf make the baddest ass pump you can with it i said 6000 rpm etc blah balh balh..well they ended up using the vw body and drivesahft the cummins 12mm plunger and cam plate.. they gave me all of the parts back etc..even gave me a cc spec.. I can't find that now..but teh 6000 rpm isn't true as my dyno runs showed fuel cutting off at 4800..same as a stock 1.6L TD...but this is the same pump that i have problems timing as the cam plate lift is lifting in the wrong spot for the pump lock pin..i need to time it with with et pump gear off a tooth or two to time it..so something was funny...also when we first got it running I blipped the throttle and heard a pop and liquid was pouring out on the ground. It was fuel the pop was the coldstart lever housing behind the pump it cracked open, actually in half. the lever was down ie shut.. not advanced..we swapped that off with a 1.6TD coldstart lever to fix it and I've been driving it. Like I if I can modifiy this other complete new 4bt pump to use the vw gov I 'll use that with a tdi gear from the '98 to fit the larger shaft...... at this point I want a reliable car to drive back and forth to work..this is getting to be a *** ..besides this one I've built a few other cars for people this last year and its been 1 1/2 years straight nothing but in the garage every night i can and every weekend or pass day I can..so I'm burnt out ha..need time to be with the family etc.. i'm off the next 2 days..if i can't figure it out these two days im done with it till summer or when ever ha.. wearing earplugs and a big jacket to stay warm while driving is starting to suck too rattle boxes..reminds me of highschool ..but man that was over a decade ago......need soem ideas quick so i can save this if not i'll do it later..
keep those ideas coming
Thanks
Deo
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Deo,
One thing...follow my thread about the GTD and such and you'll find something else. I forgot to mention it to you as well as 935Racer who has been IM'ing me regarding teh mTDI pump setup, etc.
The stock pulley from a 1z/AHU motor for the injection pump will not fit on the shaft of the 4bt pump. The pulley will actually slide all the way to the end more than likely. I was unable to do this with mine.
So...the fix. Well, Karl, who tested my pump originally used a 1.9 AAZ "adjustable" pulley turned backwards on the hub and it aligned right up...no problems...and makes timing adjustments really "fly" . I can forsee marking "preset" adjustsments to check against the gauge when dragging, etc. Fun stuff...
I however didn't like how "flimsy" and light the AAZ injection pump pulley seems, so I went to a MK4 style pulley I had here from an ALH motor....works...but when it was turned backwards it would hit against the injection pump mounting because it "bubbles" out... I had it machined and now it is ready to go on the 4bt pump...there are pics in the GTD Returns thread about it I believe...if not, i'll post them up. Beautiful piece now...and nice and heavy.
Yeah, those oil pressures would concern me enough to not want to drive it, etc. and check it out and see whats going on. 150k isn't bad, you wouldn't think oil pressure would be that low...especially considering what you have said on its maintenence, etc...
Did you test it against a normal "check gauge" for oil pressure? I doubt both gauges could be bad at the same time...but, don't know...that is a weird one...
As for the pump...I'd be concerned in the future about using the old IDI pump body and shaft in the TDI motor. Just the injection pressure alone and what you want to run for boost, etc... i think you could end up snapping the shaft...its happened before. The safest bet would be the complete 4bt pump.... but thats only my opinion...
Joe
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yeah ..looks liek i should do a gov swap on my other 4bt pump ...this pump i have here ran awesome in a the 1.6L idid but sucks now with the tdi...kinda weird.. the oil pressure think is messed up i need to figure that out before i drive it any more 12.5 psi isn't too cool...argh..worse comes to worst i'll drive my other 95b vr6 passat wagon..every day.... and keep the passat tdi out of the salt and parked..man two vr6s ..gas guzzlers ha compared to a tdi.... hopefully i can get teh pickup running good before waterfest....i still have aquife and 367 gear set to install and i have that compound twin setup i want to finish..that woul;d be nice once i have oil pressure..argh..its the little things in life huh?..like oil pressure haha
later
thanks
Deo
\x/ hillfolk'!
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well now i got oil pressure..its a messed up story ..i'm not gonna get into..but any how its 80 psi start and 25 idel when hot so seems good to me..gonna be putting it bad on teh road ..soon like a week or so gonna straighten out the other messed up stuff susepnsion steering rack and interior etc..then be bad again ..i hope to swap that other cummins pump on ..too and i need to use loctite on teh injecto pump braket too ..seems to have rattled loose the two front block bolts and they are missing ha..mummn.....gonna be running a hot hot thermosat too as it only gets to about 160 of so fahrenhiet...no heat in this sucker..ha
later
Deo
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Joe i figured out my oil pressure and now im trying to figure out teh 4bt pump conversion i have a extra bad 11mm pump here from amk4 and i am trying to pull the hubb off to use on teh cummins pump it doesn't seem to want to budge and i already dented th eback side slightly tyring to wedge it off..how did you get you hub off so you could us eth eadjust pulley?..please let me know soon as i hope to get this done asap.
Thanks
deo
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Deo...
You can't just simply swap the adjustable pulley on the cummins pump and have it work... The MK4 style pulley hub came off easily for me... however, there are clearance issues once the hub is mounted on the pump and the the injection pump sprocket is aligned. In order to get it aligned you must turn the pump sprocket "backwards" on the hub and then install...however, then...it hits the injection pump bracket mounting bolts because of the "bulge" on the one side of the beefy MK4 style pulley. I had to have mine machined down ...like this...
Before...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/joeallison_99/TDI%20ENGINE/100_1874.jpg)
After...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/joeallison_99/TDI%20ENGINE/100_2045.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/joeallison_99/TDI%20ENGINE/100_2057.jpg)
The other solution that works without machining but I don't like the "beef" of the pulley itself for a 12mm pump is the 1.9AAZ pump pulley which is also adjustable. It turned backwards on the hub works as well but they are a little "lighter" made and harder to come by on the market. I was able to type the 1.9AAZ pump pulley p/n into worldimpex and pull it up though...they supposedly are still "available"
Joe
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thanks joe..i understood what you meant from your earlier posts and other topics explaining teh machining the mk4 pulley and running it backwards.. I don't have any aaz stuff here but a bunch of mk4 stuff so im gonna go that route..only problem is the hub will not come off the bad mk 4 pump i have..argh..might have to try a puller or heat..i played with it for a 1/2 an hour yesterday and got no where...argh
later
Deo
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Man...thats weird...mine came right off... a pulley might help though. I'd mount the injection pump pulley on it and then use the puller... alot more beef on the sprocket itself then the hub alone...
Joe
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Re fuelling the solution seems simple enough: you need a TDI (preferably for the automatic) cam plate.
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The camplate will not solve everything...especially with the fact that the pump he is using being a hybrid at the moment (combo IDI TD pump and 12mm head, IDI camplate, etc..).
The 11mm camplate would give some benefit to the fueling but really the whole entire head/plunger assembly should be matched together. The cummins 4bt camplate also compared to a stock 10mm TDI camplate has about 20% more lift on it than that of the TDI camplate, but essentially the same profile. Once again I can't tell you how smoothly the 4bt pump runs on the TDI motor, after hearing the pump purr away on Karl's Synchro TDI Vanagon, there is def. no turning back. If you want the p/n for the AAZ pump pulley let me know, I have it. Also...easy solution as well would be to have the taper recut on the 1.6 pump's sprocket to match the larger shaft of the 4bt pump...that'd be really cheap and easy! Don't forget to have the keyway on the sprocket enlarged though...
Joe
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well I used my harmonic balencer puller and it worked it was on there TIGHT..ha it popped off with a load crack ha....I may try that aaz part # if you have it and its a bolt on ..it is probbaly the easiest thing to do..for the mk 4 I have to machine a key way in the hub, machine the pulley to clear when turned backward and drill it for the locking pin..sounds like a pain in the butt for the machinist or at least $100 bucks in machining for me to pay for...ha....any how I cleaned and organized my garage the last two days..now i can open both caddy doors in the garage and not hit any thing yeaaaaahhhh. I GOT ROOM.. yeaaahhhh....;)
firt thing tomarrow I will drop the oil pan and see how th ebearing are after a 3 days of driving with 5-20psi oil pressure.. I hope all is good still it still has 80 psi on start and 25 when warm at idle when you blipp the throttle it gets up to 75psi so I think it will look good down there but I want to check for sure.....then I want to do a new front suspension lift...instead of having the perches cut and raise 2 inches like it is now I will take a stock strut and keep the perches the same but cut and move the strut to wheel bearing housing mounting plates and move thenm down some how..might fab up a pipe to weld to bottom of strut and reinforce em... right now the truck sucks to drive as the suspension is fully expended and can not compress at all so not shock absorbing or road hugging properties at all..after the front suspension then add the rear shackles and re do the exhaust ..ha now it exits right behind the drivers door and it is way too loud..need ear plugs..I will re route it to go behind the passenger rear wheel.. no muffler still unless its is too loud in the cab again... I may do some dyna mat too not sure how much it costs ..but its all de tarred and no felt under the rug with out the rain gutter it was drafty... fix some more bugs then tackle the 4bt pump gov mod and conversion for the air to air intercooler etc.....phew,, I think I can handle the passat vr6 for a week or two to finish the caddy the right way....again joe can you post the aaz inj pump pulley part # for me?...
thanks
Deo
\x/ hillfolk!
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oh and when I swap the pumps I will pull the plunger in my hybrid pump and see what it has for a cam plate etc... on the injection pump note...how is your 4bt pump setup?.. does it have teh injection lock pin setup?...ie before you mount it your supposed to pull the pin out or something similar ?..how does that work and does your s have it?..also the 4 bt pump I used as a donor fro the hybrid had manual fuel shut off lever also ......but the plunger still has the electric fuel shut off ..mummn can I some how eliminate the electric fuel shut off some how plug the port alowing fuel to run through fully and just run a shut off cable to kill the fuel...also are you gonna run a cold start advance setup?..the newer untouched 4bt pump I am gonna use doesn't have acold start advance lever..I'm debating trying to add it ..and or messing with swapping a tdi advance piston cover for more travel...bad idea or good one?... I have to dig up jakes info from old posts about that...
later
deo
\x/ hillfolk
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fix some more bugs then tackle the 4bt pump gov mod and conversion for the air to air intercooler etc.....phew,, I think I can handle the passat vr6 for a week or two to finish the caddy the right way....again joe can you post the aaz inj pump pulley part # for me?...
Here is what I pull up from ETKA on the AAZ injection pump pulley...
028 130 111F
Here is the IMPEX link to it... http://www.worldimpex.com/search_by_partno.html?searchmode=partno&partno=028+130+111+F
They do show they carry it, etc. However, no pic...i can't gurantee that it is an "adjustable" one. I'd call and ask them to take a look at it, etc. They are pretty nice about things IMO. If its not the right one, i can email Karl and see if he has the P/N around for the one that is on his...
oh and when I swap the pumps I will pull the plunger in my hybrid pump and see what it has for a cam plate etc... on the injection pump note...how is your 4bt pump setup?.. does it have teh injection lock pin setup?...ie before you mount it your supposed to pull the pin out or something similar ?..how does that work and does your s have it?..also the 4 bt pump I used as a donor fro the hybrid had manual fuel shut off lever also ......but the plunger still has the electric fuel shut off ..mummn can I some how eliminate the electric fuel shut off some how plug the port alowing fuel to run through fully and just run a shut off cable to kill the fuel...also are you gonna run a cold start advance setup?..the newer untouched 4bt pump I am gonna use doesn't have acold start advance lever..I'm debating trying to add it ..and or messing with swapping a tdi advance piston cover for more travel...bad idea or good one?...
I don't see any kind of "injection lock pin" on mine. I'm not sure what exactly that is your talkin about...would have to maybe see a pic.... As for the manual fuel shutoff, yes...mine does have it but that "solenoid" that you see that is electronic at the front of the pump is the pumps version of a "cold" start advance...only electronic. Fuel is completely controlled via the fuel shut-off solenoid, single wire, on/off on the pump head side just like all the other VW pumps and all VE's for that matter. Most 4bt pumps I imagine that you'll find (they are late 80's to mid 90's) should mostly NOT have manual cold start advances... I will not be using one on mine as this car doesn't see cold weather, etc. so no sense in having it. Haven't played with the idea of the advance cover swap beyond possibly changing the advance spring in the cummins pump to a VW unit that is more than likely better matched to the gov. being swapped over. However, the pump ran awesome on Karl's app without swapping the springs at all.
Joe
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I'll take pics today.. both of my 4bt pumps have a pump lock pin on the left side looking at the rotor up front near the side of the 3 bolt mounting flange..one pump has a tag saying remember to remove locking mechaninism before starting or serious gov and internal damge will result... I'll have to dig up my b series manual..i think my 6cyl ve from the cummins has a similar pin....... oh and my 4bt pumps do not have the cold start advance vlae on the outside ..my 6cyl ve's from the cummins do have this but not the 4bts... I'd liek to find a way to make to disable the electric shut off and just use the shut off cable..
thanks deo
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I'd liek to find a way to make to disable the electric shut off and just use the shut off cable..
All you need to do it remove the fuel cutoff solenoid, discard the plunger and spring and replace the cutoff solenoid. Then use the cable shutoff.
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yeah, my unit happens to be a later series pump.
QuickTD has the good recommendation on what you can do to disable...
Joe
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Joe - I saw and learned about the 4BT's lock pin at a recent visit to my friend with the diesel rebuild shop. We actually started talking about it when we were reviewing the test specifications for your 4BT pump, because there is a spec on how to time the pump to set it! It's located on the side of the triangular-shaped mounting flange, on the side that is visible on a VW engine when the pump is installed. I'd just time your pump in the usual VW manner though, when it installed on the car. Only thing you need to be worried about the 4BT lock pin is that it is not tightened when go to rotate your pump, otherwise the input shaft will get scored.
As a side note, according to the test specs the 4BT pump has a 24 volt shutoff solenoid. That's not going to work at all on a VW electrical system obviously, but a 12 volt solenoid would probably swap right on.
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Jake,
I don't know where my head was (well, i could give you a clue) but I don't know what I was talking about. Mine does have it. I see it now... Interesting. :) Has a "nut" with an "arrowed" plate ... I have pics...will post later...
When you unscrew it I can see def. what Deo is talking about. Now what I'm wondering is I'm going to guess that the locking plate being in place allows the pump to move free, like a "run" setting. If you remove the plate does this "pin" that screws into the pump serve the same purpose that our pulley locking pin does on the VW diesel pumps? If so, I'm def. going to use this as it will save me from doing a bit more work to the Mk4 style pulley I"m going to run to clear it for the locking pin. I didn't find much of any info on it in my VE manual nor in the other lit. I'll def. post pics later though! Very cool stuff. Learn something new and great about this everyday!
Deo, if you want a electronic cold start mech. I can hook you up with mine if you want...I'm not going to run it and will just change the timing advance cover...
Joe
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as promised... Pics... was working on the pump again tonight just for curiousity reasons and preparing it for the reseal and cleanup I'm going to do after I have the bottom end all together this weekend and found ALOT more interesting stuff with it too.. :) Yum...
The bugger in question...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/joeallison_99/TDI%20ENGINE/100_2088.jpg)
And just for kicks...
VW TD throttle shaft and gov. cage assembly installed in 4bt LDA pump housing, the VW TD throttle shaft bushing was also swapped into the pump to compensate for a height difference between the two throttle shafts...
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b109/joeallison_99/TDI%20ENGINE/100_2089.jpg)
Sorry, the top one is a bit blurry...
Joe
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finally here are some pics...
heres the pump with the fuel shut off lever like joes this one was the donor for the camplate and the 12mm plunger on my hybrid pump:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/IMG00017_edited.jpg)
heres the other 4bt pump I want to modifiy with teh vw governor and the fuel shut off lever from the other pump top:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/IMG00016_edited.jpg)
heres a engine shot:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/IMG00020.jpg)
and a interior in the making shot:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/IMG00021.jpg)
hope to have figured out my suspension woes today..oh if you wan tto lift a rabbit don't try to move the strut lower mounting points ha we did and it won't work..so only lift you can get is messing with springs or perch height....oh and we mounted apoly racing seat too yesterday it gets you move room ..makes th ecaddy more tolerable for tall people ha..my freind who helped me make th eseat mounts is liek 6'8" or 6'10 " tall and he felt way more confortable and felt he could deal with it ha..im only 6' so i should be ok. i'll snag a pic today... oh i need to find a 13" high radiator that is 15 or 16" wide ..any ideas?
thanks
later
Deo
\x/ hillfolk!
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Deo,
Man, those look like nice pumps... new? Lucky you. I'm pretty sure this one I have has been rebuilt but it would've been cool to buy new. Not in the budget though this year I'm afraid. I really thing you'll be happy with the "full" cummins pump. The modification is slight and the smoothness of the motor is spectacular. Like I said, hearing it run on my friend Karls application ...man... so nice. and his wasn't with the cummins top on it...was running a Fiat TD top, boost pin, etc.
Also, that pulley you have there... that looks like the MK4 lump but did you go ahead and machine it down like I did mine? I don't see the "bubble" on the one side unless its just the angle of the shot but it looks like its flat on the table... Should work then :) Did you look up/ call worldimpex on the 1.9 AAZ pump sprocket number I gave you?
Finally, as mentioned above, you should be able to easily switch this over, and if you wanted the electronic cold start we could work something out as I don't want to run it on mine....
Looks good... Thats one monster of a 'sender in the engine compartment...
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yeah thats the autometer oil pressure sender..i had it on the head like normal but swapped it there its going back on teh head soon though...after my self inflict low oil pressures was "fixed"...ha..just got new strut inserts and some "neew" axles..and swapping radiators etc to try to fit the izuzu intercooler i have in there..i hope to make it fit..as for the cold start set up..i think it may be useful for me as i plan to run this puppy in th ecold..it starts awesome in the cold weather i have block heater an dhave n't had to use it yet just glow fro a little bit an dvroom starts right up..way way nicer then any 1.6L idi i've driven in cold weather...
out back in the garage fro me..later
Deo
\x/ hillfolk!
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hey deo,,that lda(cold start) shuts off around 120f on a cummins ,,get a temp SWITCH that opens around that temp,,the cummins one is a big bulky thing,,get one from an early 6.2/6.5 junk ,,theyhave a switch that works this way too,,,..
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mummn thanks for the tip..im off today and friday..i hope to have recieved the injection pump pulley by then.. so i can swap the pump..i got my other poly seat yesterday..and i want to re try the front suspension again argh ..keep swapping housings and springs..hows yours going?...
later
deo
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couldnt find one of those shift rod bushings,,,,i need one of those ones thats rivited together,, mines the orig. 4 speed one that bolts together and has boots,,,,,,if ya got one layin round,,keep it,,,i put the old sloppy one back in,,one day ill make all the linkage w/ rod ends etc,,,stripped out the speedo cable bolt in trans,,brought a heli coil kit home tonite,,gotta make a pipe for turbo to intake,got 2 2 inch 90 deg rad hoses,connect themtogether w/a straight pipe,,gotta weld in a fitting for the afc/boost guage,,yo that dude i got the car from has some i/c's layin round,he said he would gimme one,probably a audi 5000,,gotta run guage wiring,,,rad is installed,,alt+pulleys lining up ok now,,dunno if im gonna do 90 deg swap on battery,, imay jus wanna get it running,ohyea lift pump too,,,at leastiwas smart,i let the fuel level get to the red zone,,,,so it wont be toomessy,,,,,did ya rubber mount your pumpw/that bracket i gave ya???,,had to add an inch to downpipe,,,,,,,,i cant get the old egt fitting out of my dp,,maybe ill put ina smoke system in there,,hahhah,,,egt is now mounted preturbo,,its gettin there,,,im thinkin bout bustin butt fri nite+weekend,,,,,if it goes smooth,ill fire it up,but everything has been fighting me,,i hooked upshifter rod to shifterbackward,had to turn it around,,all the nice motor mounts+alt brackets i had painted up nice,now can sit in a box,cause ihad to clean+paint the ones that cane off the 1.6d,,,just lil frustrating things goin on like that
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cool im busting on mine too..did th egov swap and im thinking of dremeling teh d- valve stonight not sure..argh?... i think you may need to swap your delivery valves over from idi to di delivery valves..i may even try that on my truck tonight maybe thats th eproblem i have with no fuel?.. i'll give ya buzz.
later
Deo
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well, i cut em and mounted em in the pump and painted teh pump..just waiting for the pulley to get here in the mail..i swapped the other set on d valves onto the truck too ... it started frine it had to re bent the lines to clear th elonger valves..with out those two bolts for the block mount man it startes a har,onic vibration that increases th erpm ha its funny idff i press hard on teh pump and stop the vibration th erpms would drop down ha..oh well it getting swapped out asap.... i rang ya on eth ecell and th ehouse..no answer..talk to ya later
Deo
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thas wierd, cell is on,,didnt ring,,,,well it did,it was a voice mail for her,,,,,like 7 pm or so,,icame in round 10 or so,,hah,,the exhaust is still hangin under the car,,maybe ill leave the muffler in the rear for the sleeper look,,,,,,actually one cool thing is it looks like my neuspeed bar would still fit too,,i dont think iwas able to use it on the ol1.6 td
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cool you could always doe a sleeper muffler ie cut it an dweld in solid straight pipe thru it hehe...
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..i have some injection pump pulley problems..the part # from joes post is just the outer injection pump pulley.. ie no hub or woodruff key part to bolt the pulley onto the pump.....argh I was under the impression that teh impex part was a one piece pulley with a woodruff key slot to fit the 12mm big shaft injection pump..not a 2 piece mk4 style outer pulley only... since i already had a mk4 style here no reson to get another one...so now i'm gonna need to machine the tdi woodruff keyless hub for awoodruff key to use this pully on my pump..so basically starting over from scratch again..had to wait twosweks for impex to send me the wrong part. ..so i have a $50 paper weight here.. joe did your pulley from impex come with the hub?..when i called them ...they only show the pulley and a woodruff key as available..argh...?
any ideas? im gonna drive over to my machinist and see what he will charge me......
thanks
Deo
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Deo,
The pulley I got wasn't from Impex.. I got it from a TDI pump, the hub only comes with the pumps themselves from bosch and is probably harder to find. The p/n I gave you was what I had listed for the AAZ style pulley. Mine didn't come with a hub either, I sourced it from a TDI core pump that I had here from an MKIV.
From earlier in this thread...
Here is what I pull up from ETKA on the AAZ injection pump pulley...
028 130 111F
I advised to call Impex on that P/N just to be sure of what you were getting but the AAZ pulley also attaches to the pump via a hub just like the MKIV one does... otherwise...there wouldn't be anyway for it to be adjustable. Only nice thing about it would be is that it wouldn't have to be machined on the one side like I had to on my MKIV unit. You turn the adjustable AAZ unit backwards on the hub and it lines right up. Try to call dieselgeek (www.dieselgeek.com) to see if they have a hub they'd part with or even try Kerma...he might have an non-rebuildable pump core he'd sell it off of.
The hub should work just the same and non of the hubs for the adjustable pulleys have woodruffs cut in them....they are a tight "press fit" on the shaft... the AAZ pumps with the adjustable hubs were the same way. Thus the reason why when talking on TDIclub, etc. regarding injection pump overhaul, etc. VW notes that if the hub is removed the pump must be reindexed to the hub in order to set timing correctly. Now...there are several marks that you can use for reference on the TDI pump hub and the woodruff spot on the shaft will help align for initial injection pump timing anyways which is how I plan to setup mine up, etc. for timing reference and then checking against the gauge...
Is the pulley you got from impex the exact same as the MKIV one? And if you get into a bind not wanting the pulley I have someone that may be interested in it. Karls setup (initially tested my 4bt pump on his Synchro Westy application) is running fine and he didn't have it cut for a key. Just have to tighten it good onto the shaft. and aligned the initial timing marks relative to the pump shaft-hub as well as hub-injection pump sprocket against an older TDI or even 1.6 diesel style sprocket.
Joe
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well i have a hub from A TDI pump ..i am having a woodruff key way cut in it by my machinist..so i don't have to worry about it ..the sprocket i ordered isn't the mk4 hump back, its like you said a hollowed out adjustable outer pulley..my misunderstanding was that the aaz 1.9 idi has a woodruff key hub and outer pully togther for that part # or that it was a 1 piece non adjustable pulley like a older idi..either way.. now its in my machinists hads..ha 2 -3 weeks i hope to have it back..i also have him making a gasser to diesl cam adapter and hopefully he will have my psitons machines then too i am having the valve reliefs deeper by 2.6mm and the middle bowl lip bored out like yours or kerma's.. teh i want o get em coated and have a set of factory rings modified by total seal..get my polished rods shot peened and balance the engine... i got my quaife yesterday too so i have abuddie coming up to help me install it in amy 7a box ..i also am swapping the ring and pinion for a 3:67 and want to instal the stiffer preload cv cup spring set..need a big 'ol clutch too and my intercooler modified..i hope to have the new engine in for waterfest... twins and mods....
thanks i will post pics when the parts return...on another note .. how much inand out shaft play do you have on your pump?...i have about 1/8 inch in and out play no preload..the tdi pump i have here has the sam play..buta vw idi pump has the same play but it is sprung ie it springs back when pushed in...how is yours and what is normal?...
thanks
Deo
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Damn... so you got all this together and are ripping it all apart again and rebuilding again? Or is this another motor?
Sorry on the pump pulley, i thought pump sprocket would specify the "sprocket" only from my description and as I mentioned before it couldn't be an adjustable unit if it didn't have the hub to "turn" on. Thought I had made it clear enough.
Anyways... sounds like you've got alot on the plate. Alot of the things I've already done some that I didn't find very cost effective for their yield power wise like polishing the rods and shot peening... besides, the lower end compenents were amazingly balanced from the factory I was very happy to find.
You going to rework the head to if your doing deeper valve reliefs? TDI RS did it on his initial engine because of the 2.5 TDI van pistons but really your just increasing dead space in between the piston and the head if you go with the larger reliefs yet the same size valves...
Sounds good on the tranny. LSD isn't in my budget this year but I do have the 2y 16v tranny here with the 3.67 in it that I may couple with the diesel gearset to get a nice tranny out of. Might be able to do a bolt kit with 80% but next winter will be the big tranny project with a Peloquin on the way. I can't bring myself to go cable shift. I didn't like the feeling of it in my Lsyholm Corrado I had, nor the various other cable shift VW's I've felt. I like the positive contact of the 020 and will stay with that and hopefully be able to reinforce things enough to hold the power. Alot of it comes down to driving as well. I'm going to take the Mr. Dave approach this summer and take it easy as most the time will be break in on the complete new motor anyways.
I'll check my pump shaft play... I believe its in the same area as yours though, I wrote it down initially when I started doing the gov. swap and projections for the mechanical pump when I got it here to the house. I have it written down and will take a look and let you know.
You have some pics of the AAZ sprocket? It'd be neat to see some of what the impex part looks like. Only thing I didn't like about the AAZ unit initially was it looked "weaker" than that of the MKIV style... Still should be plenty tough for our needs. I got my MKIV unit done for next to nothing so I couldn't go wrong...otherwise, i would have been the path too. A pic or two would be cool though!
Joe
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this is another engine I'm playing with..the valve reliefs are for a bigger cam...it should be cool might not run as well as I hope but if not I'll stuff the g grind in there its a compromise and that worked as Simon used it.......the quaife was a deal I did almost 3 years ago. I got it used and it was a very very good price..my friend just finally shipped it to me though ha..so now it actually have it in my possession. I love the feel of the 7a trans .. like blake's old td jetta had it and that thing pulled to past 110 plus on the speedo.... it pulls and feels fast plus if I put a 367 ring pinion in there it should be even better......any how...im waiting for the machinist to do the injection pump pulley so it will be about 2 weeks plus..argh..i guess its more time to do the suspension and the radio other doo dads on the pickup...argh..ha...
i definately need to boorow my dads digital camera or buy one with my tax $ ha as the old beater camera i have keeps crapping out i went to use it yesterday and nothing i have stuff im selling that i need to post pics of so need to use one asap..then i'll post the aaz pulley for ya . What delivery valves are you using?.. long or short ones?...
..thanks
deo
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hmmi dont think im having any of those pumpproblems,, it seems torun good,,,dude at work followed me,,said it smoked a lil off the line,but when spooled up it was clean,,im using the old delivery valves,,,ridin on the hiway,i nailed it at 75,,,before iknew it iwas at 90 like that!!!! i was gonna bury it,,but i was more scared of cops than blowing it up,,usually im most of my cars,when passing someone,,,like we are doin 60,, i pull out to pass,nail it to front of passed car,id be doin about 75,,or gain like 15mph in a pass,,,now its like 20 25 mph more,,wow awesome,,im sick as a dog, ,but maybe ill drive it over to get my filters im itching to drive it:oops:
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hmmi dont think im having any of those pumpproblems,, it seems torun good,,,dude at work followed me,,said it smoked a lil off the line,but when spooled up it was clean,,im using the old delivery valves,,,ridin on the hiway,i nailed it at 75,,,before iknew it iwas at 90 like that!!!! i was gonna bury it,,but i was more scared of cops than blowing it up,,usually im most of my cars,when passing someone,,,like we are doin 60,, i pull out to pass,nail it to front of passed car,id be doin about 75,,or gain like 15mph in a pass,,,now its like 20 25 mph more,,wow awesome,,im sick as a dog, ,but maybe ill drive it over to get my filters im itching to drive it:oops:
Think your not having pump pulley problems because we're running the 4bt pumps that use the larger pump shaft. They require a larger pulley as well and specifically the TDI style injection pump "hub" and then the adjustable sprocket for the injection pump after that. In Deo's case...the AAZ unit turned backwards.... in my, a modified MKIV style unit turned backwards on the hub. You did all the old IDI parts...made it easier :) But i think we're going to enjoy the tunability and ease of it with the adjustable pump sprocket ... and I especially the auto adjust for the TDI belt tensioner and the extra security the deflection pulley and tensioner provide from the original setup. Not to mention as well... 90amps and NO more v-belts... :) Clean...
Joe
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yea i know allthat,,but the running problems deo was having,,,,something is jacked internally inhis pump,,,,just sayin mine seems ok,,although im thinkin bout shimming the intermediate spring,,ive got my timing set around .95 or so,,im thinkinbout advancing it some,maybe 1.00-1.05 or so??,when its cold,you cant see exhaust smoke but it burns your eyes,acts like slow timing,,,,hey i got a 90amp i found in the garage,,it fits the mount great,, pulleys line up too,,,justdont like that it weighs more and has a nasty cast (heavy)pulleyon it,,and the rotor is heavier than a 65 amp,,more stuff to spin up,,,but ireally dont have much more than lights+a crappy radio that icant hear at full chat,,,,anyone know if one of those autozone dumps can"test" it(myspare 90amp)before i bother to cut my wiring tofit it in???????,,,ipulled the brushes,they looked ok,,,noshorts/opens in rotor,,i guess as long as diodes+stator is ok,,but id rather get it checked before i put it on,,,,,,i guess the 90ampwould be niceif i decide to use the glow plugs inthe water outlet,for extra heat,,,
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sound good.. i would use that 90amp one blake..as for your fuel..remeber my golf tdi with those injectors in it..it smoked liek a freight train..with 20-25 psi..it seems like you could get a lot more fuel from yours ..you mentioned 20-25psi and clean exhaust..that way ..it should pull twice as much as my 2001 golf tdi did..because your car weighes half as much as the golf did..and the golf was fast..with my pump heck my idi td smoked it..ands the golf would have ate it alive...i hope with this new pump it works well..i may have a canadian helper help me with the hub machining and the stuff..debating if i shouold retrieve my hub from moro or if i should try to order anew one from bosch...and sent it to canada?
later
Deo
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Deo, something as easy as a keyway? Why not save yourself the $$$, etc. and keep/modify what you have. Also, when we were pricing individual parts through bosch for gov. swaps on the 4bt pumps (had thought about doing them on a regular basis to sell to mTDI peoples...but I don't have that much extra cash just laying around to buy them up) we were looking at 200+ just for gov. throttle shafts, spring assemblies, etc. It was getting pricey. Never did even find a Bosch P/N for the hub. It might be something that a Bosch shop that has ESItronic could look up and find...not sure though.
As for the alternator setup. Def. going with the 90amp...just to have it there. I'm not going to be running a huge stereo or anything. I found myself hardly using mine the last time around. However, there will be something there as well as extra draw from the AWIC pump and a few other auxilaries I'm going to add to. Plus, I just like the clean easy of the serp belt setup. Not going to worry about a 1hp draw or so...plus, no ps or ac, so it shouldn't even be noticeable. Have you developed a low end shudder without the harmonic balancer though?
On a seperate note...in testing my 4bt pump and my friend having his up and running very well on a relatively stock AHU TDI Synchro Vanagon application....timing so far has been set to 1.00. That is with the 4bt pump though...
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mummn a taper key way would be hard for me to do myself..i have a dremel tool and that would be my way of making that ..ie not that accurate i'd rather pay the $ to have it done then 'rig it up ..and ruin it....im debating the thgough deal now ..i just have to wait for the stuff..i am kinda anooyed at waiting too long for it though..oh well ha...theres afox wagon im debating playing with local too...heck i may even sell my tdi caddy if i get a good price..mummn i wonder what i would get for it?...
later
Deo
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I wish my mom and dad would have never gotten rid of our Fox... never, ever had a problem with it the entire time they had it. Just came to being "not used" anymore and found its way to NY here...
Probably can pull a little money for the TDI caddy depending on the shape of the body, etc. I'm guessing...maybe 3k
Joe
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man I'd hope I could get at least 3 k -- guys are selling td idi caddys on ebay 3-5k...I have a TON of $ in the engine and truck as it is 1000 bucks just for the engine before I did stuff to it...then two custom pumps, my turbo parts, an lines, machine work..welded early round frontend on my self..over $600 in guages alone..argh..two race seats ..I plan to paint the sucker and rhino line it this summer when I rhino the bed I'm gonna rhino the rockers too... I may grab the fox as a daily driver..I did grab a aeb 20v oil filter pad..I could use to put a tdi in the fox..argh ha..I always liked foxes and wanted to do a diesel swap in one..plus I have two synco quantums here i can rob parts from ie syncro fox eventaully.
Thanks
Deo
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Well Now, I did the pump swap. and the suspension swap, and a full exhaust to the rear minus a muffler of course , all today..argh... computer hard drive went on friday so I have to wait for the mail; to send em and check my email at my dads... heres some pics.. need to take some more
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/5d20a493.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/5b9267e6.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/c4fee1cb.jpg)
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y29/therabbittree/d4d00ce0.jpg)
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man I'd hope I could get at least 3 k -- guys are selling td idi caddys on ebay 3-5k...
Nice looking caddy! You found a non-rusted body for it, or did you do alot of body repair? Looks to be in great shape from the one outside picture.
Yeah, I saw a nice example of a 1.6TD caddy go for almost $5k locally this summer. And the old TDI jettas are at least $8k, and around $6 or 7k for beetles. Since the caddy is a desired body style, it might fetch more, although it is also an old body compared to the comforts of a new TDI.
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thanks it needs paint need to do it in teh summer..it has acrustyt rear wheel lip and had a fwew little rust holes but no crazy rot the windshield area is nice and the strut towers are clean this truck came from colorado...basicaly surface rust...i will post more pics as soon as i get it one th eroad..hopefully next week..teh exhuast i welded today was made from the exhaust i cut off of my dads 2002 cummins dodge ha..so its big ...at least from the cab back 3" 21/2 before that...thanks
later
Deo
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looks familar... how'd the pump swap/pulley work ?
Is that the MKIV pulley? Looks like it. I thought you had gotten the AAZ unit.
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well i spent the $ on machining teh mk4 hump pulley but used the aaz one i ordered because it allowed access to the two front / pulley side pump hold down bolts..i still had to file away a lot of metal to get access to it..i ended up drilling teh pump itself to use th emk4 stle lock pin and then i drilled the a1 stel metal pump braket too to slide the mk4 pump lock pin through and into the inject pump etc...other wise it would be almost impossble to set the intial timing and tighten th epump down..the pulley adjsutment may work some how ..but you may end up doing what i did.... also i set my timing a 1.05mm...i'm putting it on the road tonight ..so i hope to get some more feedback. I may be off a nothc on the throttle shaft as it has th eidel screw all the way out and th efull fuel screw out alot i mean alot and it still idles about 1000 -1100 rpm..i have to figure out whicth way to move th enothc on the shaft .then i may be able to actually turn the fuel fuel screw in to get some extra fuel..as it is now it runs really well egts about 1200 max so far 20 psi or so and soem black smoke..but ti think it should be making much more boost and more smoke and have more fuel screw adjsutment so i think i have to fiddle with the throttle shaft index more..any ideas..
LAter
Deo
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Deo,
Why did you go through all of that trouble to use the locking pin? From what I remember when we were talking about the 4bt pumps before yours has the pump locking pin built into the pump which is nice because it elminates the need to use the VW style pump sprocket locking pin. This is what I am doing. No need to modify. Another beauty of the 4bt pump.
Its easy to use. the "shim" for the locking pin comes out when "locking" the pump shaft and then is reinserted when you are not timing it.
Joe
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havce you locked your pump with the cummins pin yet?...i haven't messed with it but from the thbe cummins pump i have apart it doesn't look like it is a positive tdc lock..ie it just screws against the drum andacts a set screw kinda to stop it from turning where you set it..i will look into mine more....thats why..man i may have to swap my harmonic balanecer on mine or some thing it vibrates alot..and its a earplug only ride pretty much...any ideas on which diresction i need to shift my throttle shaft and its splines to work better...and tonight im swapping my therstat and the fan switchc AGAIN argh now its too hot runs..210-215 f water and 240 f oil temp..sucks..also the damn front blicnkers onlyy work with eth headlights out when they are on it cancels out and just teh running light are on..argh argh..
later
Deo
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According to my complete 4bt shop manual (thinkin about getting a 4BT to swap into an older jeep or Bronco) the pump pin will lock the shaft into position and is used for holding this position in a Cyl 1 TDC alignment procedure. Pump timing can be then check and adjusted from there. It'd serve the same purpose as the pump locking pin externally. Done stuff now that you have already modified it and I'd def. get a harmonic balancer on there :) I'm using mine and wouldn't run it without. Part of your vibration I'm going to almost gurantee is magnified by that homemade "filled" poly mount your using? or is that blake? I ran around in a friends car with a poly mount and couldn't stand it. Brand new the vibration was horrible and vibrated the $&*# out of things. I'd loose my teeth on the way to work with that setup...
Joe
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yea,the lock pin gets it close,,gotta still set with indicator,,,yea,,deo,ditchthat balancer,,it weighs a ton,,,imjust runnin a single v groove pulley,like less than a pound,,,mine doesnt vibrate too bad,,my 1.6 td was worse,,and as far as engine rock,,theres none,iprobably could raise the idle a little too,,,,yea joe,myleft side trans mount is filled with epoxy+microbaloons, solid,pretty much,,,and the lower half of the right side mount is filled too,remember,when the engine is in the car that filled part has the weight off it,,,,i like it,rear mount is a hd unit,,and the front is poly,,,,try the epoxy in an extra trans mount,,ya dont like it,,swap it out!!!,,id do it allagain,just like the setup i got,,,,maybe put something not so dramatic in the topof the rite side,,,,deo that old poly rear mount you tried ina car was wayyyyy worse than ive ever seen,that thing was nasty stay away from rear poly,,,it made a gasser feel like wayworse thana paint shaker,actually the tdi is smoother than the old 1.6,,although,,there is some new vibes in the car,,rattles etc,,not bad,,just gotta find them and insulate,,,,like outside of the car?????the vibes have made some of the inner hood bracing to come unglued,,its all dried out anyways,,79 rabbit hot texas car hoodthe vibes i think are less than a 1/6,but like more bassy sounding,,maybe the extra .4 litre???,,but it doesnt really bother me,,i wouldnt wanna drive it cross country,,but icould if i had too,,and lord knows ill be goin from ny to cleveland a few times,like 480 miles eachway,,,depends on how hardcore ya are,,im goin all the way,where you goin?????????,,,deo i ran a 2.5 in. pipe back,it ends before rear beam,,,,,,,,,yoyo,,attention attention,,ijust got a new camera,,gimme a few days,,ill get some pics goin yall
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bust out the wiring diagram!240 f oil temp???man i only seen like 95-100c so far,but i bet on a hot day it would see 115-120c,seen 120 once after an hour or so of constant beating,remember rabbitation???,,,,,sorry c temp but imusing a stock gti guage for my oil temp,,,coolant temp never barely gets to 190,,just a few tick under it(i think im still using the 180 fail safe stat,highly recomended),and a can of water wetter,if it helps, i filled it thru upper rad hose,,ya know supposed air pocket etc,,,,,,,,,,who knows,but sofar so good,,,,,,,,im the biggest dummy in the world,,,i think i bumped the glow switch when i got out at work today,killed my battery,,,,,or else idrove it to work today like that,,i dunno,,but guess what,,igot home and checked them quickw/a test light,,,,,CHECKED OK!!???,,wow,,,thats wierd,,,im gonna pull them for safety anyways,,do they have a thermal limiter in them??thats all i can thinkof to save them like that,cause i got a brand new big ol optima in there,,idont know how i dodged that bullet,,,,,,i know the volt guage driving home didnt even hit 13 volts,i just jumped it,,,,,,,and i bet that lil 55 amp alt was workin overtime!!,its on the charger overnite,,im takin her car to work,,, ,i hooked up a idiot(me) light to that glow switch so that wont happen again :o well they seem to work the volt guage drops when i hit em :D ,,i feel like such a silly :roll:
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tookout theglow plugs tonite,,they looked ok,,,took the hood off too,,been cleanin+painting the underhood,,,it was nasty+rusty,,,,,grind away witha wire wheel+por 15'ed it,,hopefully itll be dry enough tomorrow,igot the por 15 tie- primer,but instead of brushing it,,,i think im gonna shoot it on there after the por 15 is dry,igot one of those husky "detail guns",,ipainted the lower part of the grille ona a2 single round conversion to match bodycolor,,it came out nice,,a little gun is better than a spray can,,,hopefully i canjust live with the tie coat,it does seem to have a little gloss,,oil and hand prints suck onprimer,,,,,,yea,,how doyou get greasy handprints off primer?,,heehee ,,igotta get some pics rolling :cry: soon soon,,,maybe tomorrow?
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that'd be nice...:)
Joe
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well my computer has been crazy i lost a hard drive then insatlled town new ones then reinstalled windowes , had a virus , reformated then reinstalled and back up now..argh..so no news from me in a few days ..as for the rabbit pickup..i swaped the thermostat out and tryanother one its way to cold too..so i tryed all my new and used ones in a pot of water on teh stove..4 of the 5 opened at 190 f and one opened at 150 f..i put the 150 in a tit never gets hot and no heat argh like 1100 to 150 then it opens then back down to 100 degrees water temp even driving for 30 miles or so argh..im gonna get a new fail saif 180 i guess i figured i had a180 some where in my garage ha took like 10 water pumps apart and found 5 ...ha...i will try teh pin for teh timing the only resona i tdidn't uset he cummins pin was the disasembled cummins 4bt pump i have on my bench has no drum recess to have the pin hold the pump at a location..ie it looks like th epin just pushes on th edrum..but it could ion any postion if you tryed to lock it ..ie it my my be at tdi wahne the pin gos in..but heck may be that pump was messed up?...my truck as all rubber engine mounts no poly...the passenger / t belt side mount is upside down ...don't ask i messed up..and all th eexhaust has rubber vw hangers all the way back and a stainless flex mseh between th edown pipe and th eexhaust ..but itrs soo much vibration and noise it sucks th ereview mirror is vibrating so much that you can't see out it..ha..i hope its just a sound deading and no muffler issue..its annoying and definately aearplug ride.. i want to recheck th etiming with the lock pin to see if its off..it can't be too far off other wise it would be broken already.. so its proabbly eithe rtoo advanced or too retarded if it does have a timing issue..the boost still only goes to about 20psi..im not sure wahts up there..i will check fro boost leaks and other stuff..the inj pump throttle shaft wasn't off a tooth either as i tryed th eother setiings and it didn't work..the fuel screw is in a few turns more but still not much smoke..and it idles high ie 1000 plus rpm..so im not real happy with it yet..argh..
later
Deo
ps i got the mack home today and my yard is cleaned up so at least somethings are going ok...
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dude,mine doesnt smoke either,,maybe a little if i flatfoot it from noboost,,ill see a lilhaze,,ill chalk it up to the superior direct injection combustion properties,,,and my afc is fully sacked out,pin set for max fuel,,,,,,,,yo,,seen that crazy 14mm pump head???i dont have the "sack" to try that one woooh,,,,,,,,thas salada fuel,heehee yea my rearview vibrates too,,,not bad enough to not see stuff,,but i see 4 bouncy lights on cars behind me instead of 2,,hah,,its enough to see traffic behind me,,but i wouldnt be able tolike read their plate or anytrhing,,i guess im used to some of the vibes,from the jetta td,,,,,,,,,,,,ya a failsafe at autozone was 12$,,,yea my dad told me ya got the "confuser" working,,,,,,,,,,,,,hey anyone else,re: total seal rings,,ive found my invoice,,so maybe if you call them w/ my invoice#,they may can "remember" what they did,,i did see that the bore lube was 17$,and the ring lube was 10,,and they cut the 5 sets of rings,and it was 115 totalshipped,,imme if ya want my invoice#,,maybe they can hook ya up!!!,,i got some pics,,gotta installsoftware,and get them out 2 u guys!!!!
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ha yeah thats like mine vibes enough to see double ha..yeah i hope its justteh lack of any muffler..and the pickup cab is small and vibrates enouth with no insulationand no headliner or anythink...argh..man my pump is maxed out setting wise and same thing no smoke unless i load it up a little from dead stop or i lug it and even then its just a lttle..ha..not like the 1.6 TD remember fogging the lanes loading it up ie holding the brakes on as we cruised 35 mph ha..man....so i gues s if we want to make LOTs of power we need to up the pump head and or get the injectors edm 'ed..the cummins guys use the 14mm head on teh rotary pump 6bs..one guy has over 600hp froma rotary pump 6bt... oh yeah i'm buying a another cummins a'96 clubcab 5spd 4x4...gotta sell the passat wagon to pay for it....then i can throw my cummins goodies at it...sohould be nice 5"exhaust brake and my twins and pump mods...gotta get a dual disk clutch and another trans main shaft then...
later
Deo
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yo,,go into "general" i posted our "smoke tale"there,,,i think its under somethin like tell us your dieselstories,like at gas station"sir thats diesel fuel" yea iknow thas what iwant,,,,,uhoh am i gettin used to the power?????i may have to turn it upmore,,jus a little worried,,my idle screw doesnt have much left,so if ido,,i may run out of "idle",,,,,,,or should i move the throttle lever 1 spline,,,one of the pump guys said he will help me one day after work toshim up that intermediate spring,,i got a couple of other pumps torn down,,looks like if i stealthe other washers fromthe other gov.s icanuse those for shims,,,ya know the funky pump throttle lever with the 10mmscrew on top ?? cani loosen that 10mmscrew on top,,and get it to lower idle more,,,mines in the middle of the slot,,,,,,looks feasible,,anyone know if this is ok????
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man i don't know im already out of idle mine idles at 1000 plus ha..also i tryed to go either way with the splinesand it ran away...so i have it where it works..on my pump that extra throttle part doesn't look like it will do much ..i know i messed with it on my cummins..it has asmall cast in bump under the bottom that fitting in the hole..so you have to file it down...let me know
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dude that ebay rabbit was way sweet,,i think i messed my pants,,,,,,,wish i had 6600,,ouch,,,did i say that?,,gotta change oil tonite,,like 1200 miles or so,,,,dunno if ill jack it up,,,,,,i reamed on it today,,at a light,dusted some dude in a durango bad,and he was tryin,,,inailed it in first,and he had 2 lengths on me off the line,,was lookin for traction,so i asked for 2nd,and it roasted them bad again,but by then i was already passing him,,,playin enough just to prove a point,,didnt go over 45 or so(35 zone),,,,,,,,,i finally "checked my max revs",neutral,,,i was about 7/8 way down on pedal,and i was seein 5000,,i think thas enough,,think ill leave that alone,and not "test" that too much,and just shift around 4700,,,,,,man ,mu tires were almost new,,and since ive been runnin the tdi,,ill need new fronts in a few weeks ,they are gettin shredded,,,dude at work has a set of 185-80 13's for 50$,cant let that slide by,,,they will be good to burnup,,,and a little more "gear" too,,taller,,:twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: :twisted: