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General Information => Troubleshooting => Topic started by: bryanbryan89x on January 11, 2006, 07:09:45 pm
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ok so i have never replaced a head gasket in a vw rabbit diesel before...the torque on the head bolts seems awfully high
1. 30 ft*lbs
2. 44 ft*lbs
3. 55 ft*lbs
4. then turn 180 degrees
5. then warm engine up to 122 F then do a 90 degree turn
6. then after engine has 1000 miles on it do another 90 degree turn
is this right?
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That's more steps than i've frequently seen in the book, but the torque numbers sound about right. You have to be careful. There is a point where the bolt will just begin to stretch way too much and it will become very easy to turn.
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I use edelbrock headgasket sealant, than torque the bolts in the correct sequence to 30 lbs, than 45, than 55, than I do 2 1/4 turns and put it all back together and thats it, I never retorque them when they are warm or after 1000miles, and I have never had one fail even with 35psi of boost. Make sur ethe headbolts are replaced with new ones.
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yeah it was a good thing i did replace them headbolts. I have not done the last two steps yet...i may consider leaving them out. it was from a haynes book.
good n tight
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yeah it was a good thing i did replace them headbolts. I have not done the last two steps yet...i may consider leaving them out. it was from a haynes book.
good n tight
don't trust haynes. get the numbers from Bentley. I have a bentley for diesel golfs and jettas but not for rabbits. maybe someone on here has a rabbit bentley?
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tighten it till it goes eazy... then half a turn back :lol:
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bryanbryan89x: Does your '81 have 11mm or 12mm headbolts? The torquing procedure is different depending on which it has. The procedure you listed the steps for sounds right for 12mm headbolts and an OEM/composition type head gasket.
I use edelbrock headgasket sealant, than torque the bolts in the correct sequence to 30 lbs, than 45, than 55, than I do 2 1/4 turns and put it all back together and thats it, I never retorque them when they are warm or after 1000miles
This procedure (without the retorque after heat cycling) is correct for multi-layer steel headgaskets only. Use it on a composition/fiberous type head gasket at your own risk!
Unlike the multi-layer steel head gaskets, the composition/fiberous type gaskets take a "set" after heat cycling, not able to fully spring back to their original shape. That is why the instructions that come on them and also which are given in service manuals on applications calling for them give the post heat cycle retorquing.
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Yeah they are the 12mm bolts. I will be sure to do the last quarter turn. It is a little late for the quarter turn after I heat it up to 122F. When it reaches 1000 miles I will do that quarter turn though. Think it will be alright? thanks for the help fspGTD
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I didn't follow the proper torquing procedures the first time I replaced my head gasket. I did everything up to the half turn, but didn't do the two quarter turns. My headgasket started leaking again after about 50K miles. I recently replaced it again, and did it correctly this time. Hopefully it doesn't start up again.
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Actually the same torque sequence I posted earlier works just fine for the fiber gaskets, the guy got me using the edelbrock gasket sealant has been doing Hg's that way for years with no problems. If your head is straight you are good. The biggest problem peopel have with their HG's leaking after they do them seems to be warped heads.