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General Information => General => Topic started by: rabbitman on February 12, 2011, 12:05:57 pm
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So I bought some Permatex copper spray-a-gasket and another thread on here made me wonder if I should even use it.
Does it corrode aluminum or not?
If I shouldn't use this stuff is there something else I should use?
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I bet it will work as well or better than no gasket...
but seriously, your post lacks info.
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Dry dry dry.
(http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa85/vwaldon/martini.jpg)
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I don't think there is enough copper to do much in that spray to hurt you. It depends on the gasket you are using to what I would recommend. Any fiber gasekt or any felpro gasket PERSONALLY I wouldn't use it. The MLS gaskets I used the permatex aviation grade on both sides of the HG and would recommend using it ... unless felpro has an MLS gasket for our stuff then no.
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Never had a whole lot of faith in that copper spray stuff... Doesn't seem like you can spray enough on to really do much.. My preference is Hylomar.. I've used it on MLS and fiber gaskets with good results.. Best part is if you need to take things apart down the rod you don;t have to chisel the stuff off...
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Hylomar and aviation grade permatex should be one and the same for those interested.
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I bet it will work as well or better than no gasket...
but seriously, your post lacks info.
Sorry guys, I was thinking it and forgot to actually write it haha.
I'm doing a head gasket (victor reinz), I'll also be using ARP head studs.
I was just wondering if I should leave it dry or coat it with something, the parts place catalog says "VW® says that gasket sealer is unnecessary. They also say that diesel head gaskets don't leak. We recommend a special Universal Jointing compound, particularly on diesels." And then the picture shows a tube of hylomar.
I know these engines need all the help with sealing the head gasket they can get so I figured smearing something on the gasket might be a good idea.
So should I use the copper stuff I bought? or go with dry?
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dry..
most fiber gaskets actually have a coat of sealer on them it feels like, or if its fel-pro, they got silicone printed on them..
i would still not use the copper stuff.. copper and aluminum WILL CORRODE.. it would suck to have that copper spray eat a hole in your head.. only has to be a tiny little hole to leak coolant and piss a guy off..
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Copper spray versus dry, I'm gonna x2 on dry..
The corrosion factor which Kevin mentioned is the first issue, the second is that most of the copper stuff sets up hard, almost like a glue, or Indian Head shellac.. Aside from being a nasty #$&*( to scrape off when it has to come apart again it doesn't give and allow for the different rates of expansion and contraction between the aluminum and cast.. If the copper doesn't corrode first, it basically just cracks apart which leaves you wide open for leaks...
The coating on the fiber gaskets is a sort of silicone that will give.. AS will the aircraft grade sealant (Hylomar)..
To give an example of the issues with the copper spray, the Dodge 2.0 as used in the dreaded Neon.. I'm sure you may have heard about the nightmareish HG issues those had.. They used a MLS gasket and from the factory a variety of copper spray sealant.. The service manuals all specify to use the crap when installing a new HG which usually results in another failure.. Surprisingly my ultra anti - goop machinist suggested using the aircraft sealant on the Neons, and so far the results have been great.. I've tried it on a couple VW's now and it hasn't caused any problems, whether it improved anything it yet to be seen.. The stuff is holding my crack engine together so it can't be all bad..
Save the copper spray for your old low compression tractor with a cast iron head...
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Looks like I'll be using aircraft sealant or nothing, thanks all :)
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Has it been a problem child? IF not and the head is good and flat you should have no issues with doing it dry...
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I've never ran this engine, the head is flat and I haven't checked the block. I just wanted to make sure it would seal is all. I'll just do it dry I guess.
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I would (and did) use Hylomar too. Like Andrew said, the primary benefit would be reduced chance of oil and coolant leaks. I took the head off a "new" factory reman'd engine and it even had that stuff on there. It was purple and semi-sticky, (i.e. not hard). IIRC, Hylomar is blue, but I'm sure it's the same basic stuff the factory used.
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Yeah I'm not to worried about compression leaks, but on my rabbit there's oil leaking out the HG and I'd rather avoid that on the engine.