VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
General Information => General => Topic started by: rabbitman on January 26, 2011, 07:41:19 pm
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This http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24851.0 is now mine.
I'm just cleaning it out so far and in doing so I couldn't find the rear seatbelts. I looked at the mounting locations, which could be shoulder or just lap belts and the slot in the rear speaker shelfs where the belt should go through still has the block off plug in it. I also looked where the reel would bolt if it had a lap belt and there's a nice little plastic plug in it too.......
Any thoughts?
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I got to looking at the rust around the rear window and it's worse than I thought.
I bought some rust treatment by permatex and just chipped the rust bubbles off and smeared it under the window seal but I could tell it wasn't gonna work very good. Ended up taking the hatch glass out and wire wheeled the lip real good so I could really smear the stuff on thick.
Also had some very minor surface rust spots on the floor that I'm taking care of too, after doing the rust treatment I'm gonna hit it with 3M undercoating (inside the car), there's also some stops where the factory stuff came off so I'll hit that too. Supposedly this underseal is sound deadening and rust proofing. I hope so.
I bought a drivers side window regulator and tried putting it in but it turns out I bought it for an '86 instead of a '92, so I gotta get another one.
I'll keep yall posted.
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I ran out of stuff to do for a little while and looking around I found this
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P3200056.jpg)
This was already brought up a while back and someone said it's an aftermarket alarm horn.
Idk how they're usually wired in but you can see in the pic that wad of duct tape is a rather large 5 or 6 pin plug, I traced the wiring from there to where some of it tees into the main harness under the brake booster, the rest goes through the firewall and from there some of it hooks into the back of the fuse panel and some goes up the A pillar. I didn't see where it goes up there.
I took the horn off and the brand is "Ricar", it has a sensativity adjustment and a key slot that says something about.....emergency shut off I think it was. I couldn't find anything online about it. There's also a sticker with something other than english on it.
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So I've been getting the engine ready and took the head off to put a HG on, I'd bought a new 3 holer ahead of time since that's what was on it, after measuring piston protrusion I discovered it really needs a 2 hole gasket. Cylinders 1, 2 and 4 range from about .0295" to .0315", #3 is .0345" and the limit for a 1 holer is something like .0339".
It came with a Dr. Diesel performance camshaft (never ran) so I'm glad it barely needs a 2 hole HG, according to Dr Diesel the high lift cam makes things a little close inside the combustion chamber.....I'll take his word for it ;D.
Then since the head is off waiting for the gasket I decided to do a little port cleanup, nothing big, just get rid of some casting blobs, ridges and do a gasket match.
I borrowed my bros dremel for the job and during the last intake runner I managed to fry the motor in the dremel, a quick web search showed that model to be prone to such catastrophies so I'll argue with the maker and try to get a good deal on a new/better one.
I used my hitachi drill with the dremel bits to sorta finish off the intakes and got most of the exhausts partway done but I need to find another dremel to reach in farther and finish everything up. I haven't touched either manifold yet, I'm not too excited about grinding the cast iron exhaust mani.
I think I fixed the hatch rust so paint is the next thing on the list, the rear half of the vehicle is lighter than the front and the hatch is even lighter so I'll try to paint the whole hatch to match the rear half then it can at least be by-colored instead of tri-colored.
After the paint is on I get to reinstall the rear glass and taillights and it'll look like a car again.
I've been grinding the surface rust off the floor inside and then spraying undercoat on, supposedly it doubles as a sound deadener which makes me happy, I'm about deaf after driving the rabbit for 4 years.
In between undercoating it and other stuff I washed the interior off, it was mildewing from water getting it and humidifying the insides. Also installed a new window regulator.
Once that's all done the interior goes back in, it's just CL trim so it's nothing special but it is in very good condition.
With the engine I'm gonna button it back up and run the most powerful coolant flush I can find, there's quite a bit of rust scale built up in the block.
What coolant do you guys use? Supposedly the green stuff ins't the correct type so I found Zerex G-05 that says for vw but idk if I should just use green since it's so easy to get.
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Got the interior put back together today, the seats are real nice except I found a cigarette hole in the driver seat :(.
Also the dash is garbage, it's broke out between the heater controls and stereo and the screw holes are all messed up. I need another dash bezel for it anyways so I'll probably just loot all of the dash stuff.
What do you guys with golfs run for rear speakers? I think it's supposed to use 4x6, I don't need to vibrate the windows but I'd like it to sound good with a reasonable amount of bass. What brand sounds good?
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i thought this thing was like an 85 or 86?
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i thought this thing was like an 85 or 86?
The raintray vin says it's a '92 but somebody retitled it as an '86 when they brought it over.
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What do you guys with golfs run for rear speakers? I think it's supposed to use 4x6, I don't need to vibrate the windows but I'd like it to sound good with a reasonable amount of bass. What brand sounds good?
I've got one with Infinity's in the stock rear location. It's also got Infinity 8" woofers in the front doors and Infinity tweeters on top of the dash. I like the Infinity's but need an amp to properly power them and take advantage of their capabilities.
My other car I cut holes in the rear tray and put in 6X9's with boxes underneath. Eats up a ton of room and is not convenient. I have to unplug and remove them if I want to carry anything of any size. Not something I'll do again.
Next time I'll go with high end 6" rounds for mids and highs at the rear, and then a sub box for bass. Not a ton of room for an ideal setup, but most of your volume should really be coming from the front to get the proper sound stage. That's another issue with room in these cars. I've seen some guys do stuff with hidden speaker boxes under the dash area ported to the top of the dash, but I've never heard them so have no idea if it really works or not.
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any good reputable brand name will have good speakers for our rides, but like was stated, you really need an amplifier to power them and make them sound right..
i have JL Audio speakers all the way around my car.. TR evolutions in the front and rear, and a 13" W7 woofer..
a 100 pound sub box is a pain in the ass in a rabbit...
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One of the Cambridge guys had his mk2 (has single round cross hairs) sound ported up. He hits Timmies in Hespeler on the odd time. It sounds good. He spent some serious time and $$$$ making that set up.
If you really want to make decent sound on a low buck system, buy high end gently used gear and know someone who can design you a good sub box. Mine isn't 100 pounds, but I found that anchoring a 30 pound box takes away the vibration bounce which mangles good sub sound. Yea it isn't as deep sounding as a 100 pound box, but, 4 bolts and 2 screws and it is out of my way.
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One of the Cambridge guys had his mk2 (has single round cross hairs) sound ported up. He hits Timmies in Hespeler on the odd time. It sounds good. He spent some serious time and $$$$ making that set up.
If you really want to make decent sound on a low buck system, buy high end gently used gear and know someone who can design you a good sub box. Mine isn't 100 pounds, but I found that anchoring a 30 pound box takes away the vibration bounce which mangles good sub sound. Yea it isn't as deep sounding as a 100 pound box, but, 4 bolts and 2 screws and it is out of my way.
the actual woofer is what makes up most of my boxes weight.. its a big boy sub woofer, weighs like 70+ pounds, $1200 MSRP, takes 1600 watts just to make it sound decent.
definitely not for the faint hearted..
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One of the Cambridge guys had his mk2 (has single round cross hairs) sound ported up. He hits Timmies in Hespeler on the odd time. It sounds good. He spent some serious time and $$$$ making that set up.
If you really want to make decent sound on a low buck system, buy high end gently used gear and know someone who can design you a good sub box. Mine isn't 100 pounds, but I found that anchoring a 30 pound box takes away the vibration bounce which mangles good sub sound. Yea it isn't as deep sounding as a 100 pound box, but, 4 bolts and 2 screws and it is out of my way.
the actual woofer is what makes up most of my boxes weight.. its a big boy sub woofer, weighs like 70+ pounds, $1200 MSRP, takes 1600 watts just to make it sound decent.
definitely not for the faint hearted..
I don't need that much sub, that's just insane for me anyways.
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i dont need that much sub either, i just got a SCREAMIN DEAL on it, and figured i should atleast use it..
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I'm not going to bother with a sub, I hate not having room for everthing I want to haul.
I have the rear stock speaker mounts but not the tray and I don't want to cut anything up just for speakers anyways.
Also these doors don't have a speaker mount, instead they have pockets.
IDK.......I'm hoping to just find some good speakers that'll mount in the stock locations and hopefully it'll sound ok.
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So today I was going to put the valves back in the head and noticed the #2 intake valve felt rather loose in the guide. I had measured a couple and they where in the .025"-.030" range which is ok, but this valve was way loose. Measuring showed it to be .050"-.053. The wear limit is .051" :( :'(. I also found some little nicks in the stem just above where the seal rides.....
So then I got to looking at the rest and they all have nicks and scuff marks.
So I for sure need one new valve guide and now I'm wondering if I should just get all new stainless valves.
The valves also have slight scrape marks on the stems where they ride in the guide but the sealing surfaces are good.
So from this description should I just get a new guide (I'll have to have someone else do it) and run the same valves or new guide and all new valves?
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air cooled engines plus has all stainless valves...think I paid around 50 dollars for all 8
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air cooled engines plus has all stainless valves...think I paid around 50 dollars for all 8
Yeah that's what I was thinkin' of doing ;D. I looked 'em up and found their number and all.
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I will never replace a valve again with anything but stainless(ok, maybe inconel if I have lots of cash)
they are just so much better than stock ones.
-Owen
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I called about the stainless valves and he said he could either "get 'em or make 'em" haha. He was gonna find the price and call me back but I haven't heard anything, the time difference probably messed things up.
I also called a well known machine shop to see about getting new valve guides pressed in and the guy said they don't work on vw or subaru. When I asked why he said parts are too hard to get and everything is sized weird, I've heard that if someone doesn't want to work on these then don't try to make 'em since they probably don't know enough what they're doing to touch a vw diesel head.
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Yeah John at air cooled 2 years ago had to make mine. He gets a stock valve then undercuts them and swirl polishes them. He can't buy them in that way anymore is why he makes them. Still with all that work 2 years ago it was still cheaper than 1 oem exhaust valve.
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Yeah John at air cooled 2 years ago had to make mine. He gets a stock valve then undercuts them and swirl polishes them. He can't buy them in that way anymore is why he makes them. Still with all that work 2 years ago it was still cheaper than 1 oem exhaust valve.
I talked to him today and he was waiting to see if he could still get the blanks for making valves.
I also called the machine shop that said they wouldn't do vw heads (he said it's because parts are hard to get) and asked him if I got the valve guides if he would put them in and he said it's too iffy on getting the old guides out. He said aluminum might stick to the brass and drag out ruining the head and if he heats the head to loosen the fit then the valve seats might fall out too :o.
He also thought that the .051" wear limit was a misprint and that it should be more like .005" ::) (EDIT: thinking back I bet he was thinking actual clearance rather than valve "rock" like the bentley says). He did say that I should just run it and probably won't notice any oil consumption anyways. I hate to start out with a guide that's already past spec.
Time to do some body work.
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I didn't have to ship but 2 hours...But I sent the entire head to Air Cooled Engines Plus in Tiffin OH and had right around 600.00 in it. That is shipped both ways and ported/polished, flow benched, and all. Good Luck on the body work, it is no fun fixing messed up stuff and rust.><>
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I didn't have to ship but 2 hours...But I sent the entire head to Air Cooled Engines Plus in Tiffin OH and had right around 600.00 in it. That is shipped both ways and ported/polished, flow benched, and all. Good Luck on the body work, it is no fun fixing messed up stuff and rust.><>
Yeah I don't have lots of rust, the hatch was the worst but the rest is just surface stuff. I do have paint that flaked off of the I think factory bondo around the taillights (looks like they used bondo to get the right shape), some of the bondo came loose too so I put more on, sanded it and now I have to put more on to fill in the low spots.
The paint is almost done getting mixed, they need a better paint chip to get it closer.
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Last Saturday I installed the electric headlight adjusters and the autopal e-code headlights ;D ;D ;D.
It was fun, the adjusters didn't want to work right at first, one was bound up and pretty soon neither one worked. I ended up taking them apart and manually setting them at the lowest position and I guess that fixed something 'cause new they work fine........one is slightly slower than the other though ::)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/83-91-VW-GOLF-MK2-MARK-2-H6024-7-H4-HEADLIGHT-ASSEMBLY-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf3eeb0f5QQitemZ330510020853QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
These are what I have, they're a perfect swap into a round headlight golf 2. On the lower left corner of the mounting plate you can see the plastic up/down adjuster, I just removed these and the motors went right in.
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Today I painted the hatch and the trunk lip that gets banged up when loading and unloading spare engines, the paint is not the perfect right color but I think it'll do for now..........actually the paint is an absolutely horrible match :-\, so the car is still tri-colored ::). Some day I'll just repaint the whole car with the factory color.
The repaint that a previous owner did had lots of nicks down to white so I went around with a small brush and dabbed paint into the pockets and now it has chicken pox........
Time to put the rear wiper, washer, latch and plate back on and then when I get some help I'll install the rear glass.
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I painted the whole hatch, the roof is factory and the quarter panel has been repainted so don't laugh (too hard) at the slight mismatch of colors........the camera messed with the colors a little bit too.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P2260161.jpg)
The little white marks at the edge of the fresh paint is tape that got painted and didn't come off when it should've.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P2260159.jpg)
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P2260153.jpg)
With the city lights on.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P2260157.jpg)
As it sits.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P2260155.jpg)
I totally removed the alarm system after looking at it I could tell that one of the early owners had put it in. They had wires teed in and just twisted around and then taped up :-\, so I just undid 'em and all is good. I had to splice only one wire that had been cut to tee in.
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Still waiting for the valves to get done so I put the front bumper and valance on and hooked up the blinkers and stuff.
I'm not gonna put the grill on until the engine's together otherwise I'll lean on it and bust it.
The interior needs a new dash and bezel but I think I'll wait 'til the snow melts so I can get in the salvage yards and pull it all off a wreck.......I was in there the other day and they said they've crushed most of the vdubs since they've had 'em so long :'(. The guy said they've crushed 3000 cars in the last 2-3 years and only have a few mk2's left......I almost cried
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So I finally got the oversize valve guide, installed it, ground the seat, installed 6 of the valve stem seals before installation of the lower spring seats thus wasting 6, ordered another set, installed most of 'em and then having to put a bevel at the top of the oversize guide to let the seal slide on, installed the rest of the seals.......bla bla. Finished putting the head together, noticed the injectors all had cratered nozzles causing me to rebuild all of them I threw the last remaining pieces on and......
IT RUNS!!!
Smoky and loud (only has the intake on, no filter) and splashed oil everywhere since the vc wasn't on, the baffle helped though.
Time to go play with it more.
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good to hear!
glad that the car is getting the attention it deserves.
-Owen
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Yeah it's really nice to finally be getting something done on it after having it sit in the way of everything for so long.
It runs weird, it clacks worse than it should with an occasional pinging that sounds like a gasser pinging yet the IP timing is retarded enough that the engine misfires slightly and smokes unless I pull the cold start. ???
I don't think the temp gauge is working either, the upper rad hose feels like it's almost up to running temp but the needle hasn't moved.
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Got it a lot better, still seems noisier than I thought it should be.........actually I just thought of I'm comparing it to how my friends MK2 TD sounds, of course that'll be quieter.
Shouldn't this be a lot quieter than say, a rabbit NA? haha I hope so.
I looked into the temp gauge thing and it's just the sender, jumping it to ground pegs it on high. Funny thing though is that both senders appear to be bad since switching the GP and gauge plugs doesn't help.
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Something is still not right with it. It starts hard and then misses but at the same time it clacks real bad, I'm thinkin' the fuel lines and stuff weren't clean enough and is causing leaky/clogged injectors or something.
I added a pint of seafoam to 5/8 tank of fuel so we'll see if it helps.
Is it OK to run straight seafoam?
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I would stick some lubricity additive along with it just in case.
BTW diesel purge is goooooood stuff, and NAPA should have it/be able to get it.
-Owen
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BTW diesel purge is goooooood stuff, and NAPA should have it/be able to get it.
-Owen
I might look into it.
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I hooked up an oil pressure gauge to the head since I was missing the stock sender anyways and wanted to know what it is.
Here it is.
Cold idle: 70-80 psi and doesn't change much when revved.
Hot idle: 10psi
Hot revved: 30-35psi
Driving longer would probably get the oil hotter but the rad fan had come on at least once.
I do not have a tach but I'd guess idle to be 1000-1100rpm (yes it idles high) and revved to be in the 3000-3500rpm range.
I think the low oil pressure is affecting the vacuum pump since it vacs real good when cold but once it's hot I have to rev it to get good brakes.
That's way to low for my liking and being a '92 it probably already has the 36mm oil pump.
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Just put my tach in
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P1000348.jpg)
Much better than the big clock.
Do these tachs need calibrating? I assume it would be accurate as long as the crank and alternator pulleys are the same size as the car it came off of, but if they're not is there adjusting screws on it somewhere?
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i would say it is probably accurate, but i recommend that you double check. so long as your speedometer is accurate you can use your gear ratios to figure out what rpm you should be at at certain speeds
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i would say it is probably accurate, but i recommend that you double check. so long as your speedometer is accurate you can use your gear ratios to figure out what rpm you should be at at certain speeds
I parked my rabbit close to the golf and used the rabbits tiny tach (accurate to within 1 rpm below 1000 and within 10 above 1000rpm) to test the accuracy of the analog tach. It seemed to vary from about 50-150 rpms off, fine for driving but not really for tuning the IP. It's accurate enough to get tuned better than it is now though ::).
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they're pretty simple to adjust if need be
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My stereo, notice my messed up dash, that's part of the reason I didn't put it where it's supposed to go.
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P1010799.jpg)
The city lights on
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P1010801.jpg)
This is were the temp gauge likes to sit, It's not overheating so do I need a different sender to lower the needle?
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P1010798.jpg)
Looks good to me.........
(http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/rabbitdude82/P1010802.jpg)
The muffler was broke loose from the core so it could spin so I got a new Walker muffler from amazon, it's really quiet now.
I just gotta get it to start in the cold and I'll start driving it. ;D
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Nice car!
My temp needle stays just under half at almost all times. I have a fan cooling switch too set to 84 degrees celcius I think too. Helps keep it cool :)
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Nice car!
My temp needle stays just under half at almost all times. I have a fan cooling switch too set to 84 degrees celcius I think too. Helps keep it cool :)
Thanks man.
The thing with the gauge is it's not overheating at all and the lower rad hose barely gets warm meaning the t-stat isn't opening much. I'll just live with it I guess, it sure is nice when the needle sits right in the middle though ;D.
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I bet your Radiator or T-stat is fudged up......
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I bet your Radiator or T-stat is fudged up......
i dont think owen ever had any issues with the cooling system??
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I bet your Radiator or T-stat is fudged up......
i dont think owen ever had any issues with the cooling system??
He never even ran this car, he lost interest and sold it after buying the isuzu.
Like I said though, the needle sits too high but the actual temperature is not high. The top rad hose is not too hot to hold on to.
Just wondering if the sender is screwed (it's new) up or if it's the gauge. The sender is blue does that sound right?