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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 92Ecodiesel on January 08, 2006, 05:35:17 pm
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I just put a turbo diesel engine from a 92 ECOdiesel jetta into my 89 Jetta that was NA. I have 2 problems, the big one is that the transmission wont engauge. With the clutch all the way out and the car in gear it just sits there and wont move. I did put a all new clutch parts on and installed them exactly in the same mannor the old ones were installed. The other problem is that it is smoking like crazy, it's running very rich lots of unburnt diesel. I am thinking/hoping its just the injector pump timing and will have that checked again since I had another timing belt installed on the engine while it was out of the car. Any and all suggestions welcome.
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What clutch did you use?
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here are the specifics on the clutch kit I bought and installed.
Brand: Sachs
Description: Clutch Kit, OEM Spec, Quality And Fit
Year: 1992 - 1992 Engine - Chassis:
1.6L, 4 Cylinder DIESEL, FI, VIN "F", IV: GL, From Chassis #1G-L-015952
1.6L, 4 Cylinder DIESEL, FI, VIN "G", ME: From Chassis #1G-L-015952
1.6L, 4 Cylinder DIESEL, FI, VIN "H", IV: GL, From Chassis #1G-L-015952
1.6L, 4 Cylinder DIESEL, FI, VIN "H", ME: From Chassis #1G-L-015952
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hmm...does it make any noises when you put it in gear and let out the clutch? Sometimes the outer Cv's can come apart and just spin inside the boots.
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No it doesn't make any noises. I put it in any gear let the clutch out and nothing. Sits there like its in N.
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That's really strange. What if you start the car, put it in gear, let out the clutch, leave the e-brake on and get out and look underneath? Do either of the driveaxle flanges spin?
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You may also try putting the car in gear (1st) by hand at the selector on the tranny under the hood (car off). Then get in, push in the clutch and crank it up without messing with the shifter. See if when you let the clutch out if it wants to move or not. At least then you will know that you're not encountering any problems with the adjustment/broken parts on the linkage.
Good luck
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Yes the driveaxl flanges are spinning. Does this mean something came apart, The spinning is telling me the transmissin is working.
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Yes, on the side it is spinning you have a bad CV joint or the axle has come out of the CV joint.
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Is the inboard bit of the CV axle spinning with the tranny flange? I know it sounds like a silly question but I actually had one occasion where the 6 bolts that hold the CV axle to the tranny backed themselves out after being tightened to spec. Luckily I caught it before the halfshaft came all the way off. Only had this on my pickup though, never had a problem with my wifes jetta or my 4000. Needless to say I always make sure that those 6 bolts are really on there good now.
Hope this helps.
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I've had those bolts back out on me too. The last time was in my Rabbit. I pulled out and stood on it, shifted into second and heard a loud clunk... I was rather releived I hadn't broken another clutch, transmission, or CV joint, but it did bend a couple of the bolts. Luckily I'd just pulled away from a wrecking yard with a pair of axles in the back. I ended up putting the axle back in in the AM/PM parking lot.
Back to the point though, I thought he had just put it together so that seemed unlikely. :D
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Glad it wasn't just me that this happened to. You're right, this would be unlikely, but just figured to make sure that it wasn't the obvious, and I wasn't sure since "driveaxl flanges are spinning". :D
BTW not to get too far off topic but do you guys switch the drive axle bolts out to a hex (allen wrench style) or just keep them with the 12-pointed star headed bolt as I've done. The parts guys seemed to think that a lot of people toss the 12 points.
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I kept the 12-points. I paid several dollars for the special 12-point tool, so I might as well keep using the special 12-point bolts. ;)
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Yeah, I keep the 12 points too. It wouldn't be so bad to switch them to allens, but I haven't really attempted to do so especially seeing what was done to my first Rabbit. Someone had replaced the bolts with hex head bolts. One of them snapped and the bolt wound it's way through and began to machine down the bell housing. :shock:
You're also supposed to replace those bolts each time, but I never do and really have never had a problem with them other than the issue of them working loose once in a great while.
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Yes the driveaxl flanges are spinning. Does this mean something came apart, The spinning is telling me the transmissin is working.
did you put the 12 point bolts back in?
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I keep the 12- point bolts. They are very high quality, very high strength bolts you could only really match their strength (grade 12.9) with an alternate style, at best. Considering most 8mm bolts only see 15-ft lbs max torque, might make you respect the 33-ft lbs CV bolts more. This is an ungoldly amount of torque for an 8mm bolt!
Considering the stress these bolts get placed under, it shouldn't be surprising that their splines get gauled up a little bit from each installation/removal cycle. Although I find they can be used more than once, I probably wouldn't use them more than 2-3 times. I clean their splines and after removing them, inspect their splines closely to see how badly they are gauled up. I toss bolts having badly gauled up splines and replace them with new bolts. If the splines are in decent enough shape, I re-use them.
I always use a torque wrench when installing them, and double-check they are all torqued up to specs, and I've yet to have any loosen up on me.
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My friend's Jetta had the bolts get loose which caused them to be damaged. Aside from the 12 point head, these are class 12.9 high strength bolts which should only be replaced with the same type. These are easy to find as many German cars use them including most Audi and water cooled Porsche. Try to clean the holes out with a pic to make sure you have full contact before loosening tight bolts. I have stripped one by not doing this. Daniel