VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: jaysen71581 on January 17, 2011, 08:08:49 am
-
>:(
Today was the big day for going to get the seam rot repaired and the first real road test, so she fires up first time no problem and we are out on the road, heated seats are working great, boost gauge boostin up to 5psi oil psi is good and engine time around 180, not bad, well about a mile from the destination i hear a high pitch sound almost like im getting ready to throw a belt, so i slow down, i make it there and i pop the hood, guess what, i have no coolant in the tank, i pull the dip stick and i have more chocy milk, so now im convinced its a bad headgasket and now i may have some head warpage going on now as well, there was no oil in the coolant tank but its all in the oil pan... I dont know but its really starting to test my patients.... Any ideas other than finding the closest car crusher... >:( ???
-
Swap in a different motor, HG problem solved. However, you may open up a different can of worms.
Even if its just a block and head, with missing accessories.. such as the pump, injectors, alt, brackets, WP.. anything. You can very easily swap ALL your stuff right over.
Worth a thought?
-
interesting, any design ideas for the plate to the block idea..
-
bolt a plate on where the head goes, then pressurize the block.. just like pressurizing the cooling system, but without the head..
any plate, steel, stainless, aluminum, whatever.. take a head gasket, lay on it, and drill the 10 holes for head bolts..
then get some really short bolts the same threads as the head bolts. or stack a LOAD of spacers on each head bolt..
-
Im sure i can get a plate of metal and i can just weld a fitting on it as so i can hook up my air compressor and a gauge to measure pressure, i have a spare headgasket i can use as a template
-
Pressureize the cooling system with the oil pan off?
See where coolant is dripping into the oil pan.
-
Of all the things, lol it snowed and its the icy crap, so the car is still sitting up there, i did get to clean my garage and retool everything, ill be putting the car on ramps in the garage, ill order the new head bolts and HG.. Now heres the kicker the motor is out of an '85 Jetta TD and the headbolts are 11mm is that common, i always thought they were 12mm but mine for whatever reason is 11mm... :P
-
its not the stock engine then.
all TD engines produces by VW in a factory.. were ALL 12mm head bolts..
there is no such engine as an 11mm turbo engine.. have you pulled the oil pan to see if there are (not) squirters in the block?
anyway, like i said, ive heard of 2 turbo engines having 11mm bolts, and i doubt either one was un touched as it came from the factory..
-
I believe the first year for the TD engines in North America, if not all vw's, was in 1983. And the swap to 12mm headbolts took place in 1981-1982 model years. Therefore, it is highly unlikely you have a legit TD engine. More like a 1.6 (1979-1982ish) naturally aspirated engine with a turbo thrown on it.
Not a good engine for excessive boost and uel. Could possibly explain why your having issues, as you likely have a lifted head, cracked block, or both :(
-
is there a way to see what block i have so i can figure out where i stand, cause if its an NA block then im not sticking a turbo on it, id rather get the td block....
-
There should be an engine code stamped into the block directly under the cylinder head.
-
i run turbos on n/a blocks ALL THE TIME..
if you dont hold the power to it for 2 minutes @ a time, going up a long hill, then you should be good to go.
but you kinda HAVE TO have a pyrometer.. dont want to get it too hot and seize your pistons to the bores like i did..
-
(http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m100/anakinkenobe/4b083e43.jpg)
Here she is i couldnt find an engine code that matched any on the sites i was looking on.
-
Where your hard-lines come out of the pump, just to the right of that. Just to the left of the vacuum pump. there is a spot you didn't paint.. the code is there.
-
and im gonna make a bet that its an 81 or 82 11mm 1.6 engine. prolly a CR or CY code..
-
cr 614373 was the engine code
-
nailed it ROR2.0
-
Parts ordered, by the way the head is heavier than crap with the exhaust manifold and turbo on.... Will def use the hoist to put it back on lol... ;)
Ill keep ya updated as to the progress i make and if i can get it to not turn to chocy milk again... Parts were order from partsplaceinc.com , great people with lots of knowledge and in english lol... 8)