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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Palmer on January 02, 2011, 08:34:38 am
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I've had a rather loud tick in my car since august. Its a 1.9 idi In the past 3 months I've replaced the lifters, main bearings, rod bearings, the oil pump, and the vaccuum pump. The car has had ARP headsa bolts for quite some time, but when the main bearings were replaced I had ARP main bolts installed. And still, the tick is there and just a load as ever. What else could it be, and is there anything simple I could try to fix it.
Mods are ARP bolts as mentioned above, turbo from a 1.6, turned up fuel, and 2.5" turbo back exhaust.
Someone told me to put a 1/4 litre of tranny oil in my motor oil.. I think I'll wait for vwdiesel.net's input first.
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probably injector knock..
have you had your injectors serviced in the last 100 years?
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I just got the car in June. I've never had them serviced. Is injector knock really loud? I thought they just had a quiet little tick. Having said that, I don't think i've ever heard one knock before.
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I have had injector knock that made me think the motor was going to throw a rod at idle.
it can be VERY loud, it can also be not so loud.
injector knock, depending on its severity, can sound like lifter noise or a bottom end coming apart.
-Owen
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The definitive "is the injector making that noise?" test is to loosen the top fuel junction at each injector, one at a time. If the noise goes away when you've disabled a particular injector thar she blows!
Obviously you'll want to take the usual fuel safety precautions... eye and hand protection, fire extinguisher standing by, but at idle the fuel will just dribble out and it can be a very quick way to isolate the noise as an injector issue.
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Oh sweet. It does sound just like my buddies car did right before he blew parts out of the back of his block. Hence the new main and rod bearings and main bolts, but those are never a bad idea.
I'll look into that next weekend.
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With respect to what your buddy mentioned about tranny oil; he probably meant ATF. This method can work ok to free up sticky lifters. Since you have already replaced them, no need for that. also, putting ATF in the engine will require the engine to idle for about half an hour and then you have to change the oil.
I think you are being directed in the correct direction. Injectors can be pretty loud if they are out spec. Plus, it cant hurt to have them serviced. You will get more power and better economy with clean and properly popped injectors.
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Ditto on the injectors. Lifter knock is loud. Injector knock is irritating. You may want to check what the oil pressure is while the car is warm and idling.
Find another buddy with a loose oil pressure gauge and find the right fittings to put it in the location at the top of the cylinder head on the transmission side.
Should be a blue or grey sensor there.
Careful, as this hole can have some residual oil. Obviously do not try and swap the sensor for your test gauge with the engine running.
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I have been meaning to pick up an oil pressure gauge for the car, as well as an EGT gauge. I get worried about my temps sometimes.
I need to get on this and see whats up.. Even homeless people are yelling at me to put oil in my car, haha.
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I am wondering if one or more of the lifter bores in the head are not distorted in some way. This could cause a new lifter to work improperly.
Is the knock high or low (location) on the engine?
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Its hard to tell really. I know three of the best diesel mechanics around, and 1 said lifters, and the other two said it sounded lower and was the main bearings. Apparently it was neither. I need a stethoscope. After everything I've changed, it still sounds the exact same too.
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Id just get the injectors serviced then see whare that leaves you.
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x2 on the injectors..
Owner has never had them serviced, its time..
this is one of those maintenance items.. just like timing belts, and oil changes..
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Good Luck, but mine was a horrible loud clack clack etc. If I ever pull the head for some engine destruction pornography... I expect to find a piston eaten by a failed gudgeon pin. But an oil leak and the girlfriend (oh, I wondered what that bright red light and loud buzzer were for.......25 miles DOH!) stopped me being interested. ::)
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Its hard to tell really. I know three of the best diesel mechanics around, and 1 said lifters, and the other two said it sounded lower and was the main bearings. Apparently it was neither. I need a stethoscope. After everything I've changed, it still sounds the exact same too.
Are you using ARP because the head had warped previously? If the head was skimmed, it is quite possible, coupled with the extra crushing effect of the studs on the gasket, some of the valves are kissing the piston crowns. That echoes through the engine... Mine did it for 20000 miles, and no harm done ;D
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Was not the injectors...
Any more ideas?
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Mine was loud until I installed a new head with new valves...
Much quieter now
GB
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You never said if you checked the IP timing. That can be loud.
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I have checked, and adjusted the IP timing. No change. The injectors did make a slight difference though. The stethoscope seems to indicate that its louder near cylinder #1, So maybe its a broken valve spring? Another theory was a broken spring in the IP as well..
I will keep updating as I go.
Also, as far as I know the head has never warped or been machined. The ARP bolts were just installed to keep the top end on when the boost goes over 20lbs.
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Just to be sure not the cam/crank/IP timing but the actual dial indicator in the IP?.? I think aaz was .85mm, I could be off on that. Why did the mains need the ARP for boost? And, what where the clearances on the mains when you replaced the bearings? I guess I am wondering what is going on with the mains. When I first read the post I was thinking ARP studs only in the head. Then with the addition of the oil pump gets me to thinking there were bottom end problems. Did you do the con rod bearings? Usually they are worse than the mains. Easier to do in car as well :D
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I did not put a dial indicator in the IP, just loosened the 13mm bolts and retarded it a bit. The PR had it advanced almost as far as it would go.
A little history on the car. The original TDI was lifted to be put in a corrado. This now has a 1.9 TD, not exactly sure what one. The PO put a turbo from a 1.6L on it (uncontrolled. Will peg the boost gauge at 35 lbs), Cone filter, and a 2.5 inch turbo back exhaust. He put the APR head bolts in to keep the head from lifting off. A few locals here had that problem with uncontrolled turbos. After 20lbs the head would lift off a bit. One guy even had his coolant blowing out of the reservoir until he put apr head bolts in.
I had if for a few months before this tick started. It was hard to tell where it was coming from, everyone just assumed it was lifters, so I replaced them. They didn't fix it, so I replaced the main bolts, and con rod bolts at the same time, and decided to put apr bolts in there because another guy with the same block and same mods had a bottom end fail on him.. I put them in to be safe and to try to keep the bearings from being beaten out of it. I didn't check the clearances, but I also had someone else do it for me... The shaft on the oil pump was all beaten to s**t, and so were the guts of the vacuum pump, so they were replaced at the same time as the bearings.
Still ticked.
Just had new injectors put in sunday, no change.
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When you pull the cold start knob out does the tick go down a bit?
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cold start nob doesn't do anything. I should look into that someday, haha.
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cold start nob doesn't do anything. I should look into that someday, haha.
haha, yea lol, Can you post up a video of your car running? it would help
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Yea, I'll get on it this weekend maybe.
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Turn the engine over with a wrench and see if you can feel the valves touching the pistons, it would feel like hard spots.
Did you ever try loosening the injectors one at a time at idle? That might tell you which cylinder it is.
Since you've changed so much stuff I'd have to guess wrist pin bushing.......
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR3w0uAGmmY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR3w0uAGmmY)
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Mine was loud until I installed a new head with new valves...
Much quieter now
GB
lifters tend to make LOTS of noise when the head is broken off the bucket..
LOL ;D
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR3w0uAGmmY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CR3w0uAGmmY)
It looks like you might have the anti-advance solenoid activated (the solenoid at the front of the pump)... if so, does the clacking sound diminish if you disconnect the power temporarily?