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General Information => General => Topic started by: erice1984 on December 14, 2010, 06:51:23 pm
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How does anyone survive in their mk1 Rabbit/Golf ?
I thought I could do this but the 1.5D doesn't heat up fast enough and the insulation inside the car sucks!
It is 0 degrees here and I have the defrost on so I can see out the windows, it doesn't heat the window up enough to melt the ice my scraper couldnt get to.
Help please! I don't want to sell this car just to get another "headache"
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Cardboard in front of the radiator.
Bubblewrap under the door cards.
Does it have a temp gauge? Is it getting up to temp on the highway?
Under 18F in stop and go traffic, it's common to lose engine temp.
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All of the above, a good thermostat and a block heater.. If I'm somewhere that I can;t plug that in I have one of those 12v window defroster things that plug into the cig lighter.. Not real fast, but it helps..
I was (I suppose) fortunate enough to need a new headliner so while that was down I added some extra insulation to the roof as well..
Unfortunately, I'd still advise having a good winter coat.. :-\
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What he said.
What degree thermostat do you have installed?
Check for small air leaks in the firewall.
Make sure the heater air controls are actually working.
Cheers,
-JB
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My past experience with my 82 diesel pickup, have been good. Good clean cooling system, reasonably few miles on a total engine rebuild. I've used it at -35C and had no issues with adequate heat or windshield frosting.
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my thermostat is a Wahler 80*C from autohausaz.com 056121113A
I need a new door seal or a larger one on my driver door
Does anyone have problems with door seals fitting correctly ? I noticed my door has a washer between the hinge and mount on the frame so the door closes and latches easier. I suspect because of the chassis sagging or hinges bending over time... In this case would it be worth it to get a new door seal or not bother because they are $50. Although I can tell I lose a lot of heat because of the door seal.
Yeah I do have a few grommets that could be replaced on the firewall by my feet.
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Get it sealed up. The GTI that came from was warm, but the fan and resistor was junk. Also X 10 on the cardboard in front of the rad, it helps a ton.
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Yeah, I should do the cardboard until I find enough stuff to order to get free shipping from autohausaz
how about this? I never knew this existed but seems the piece I am missing on my door.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Vw-Mk1-Rabbit-Jetta-Caddy-Upper-Door-Seals-NEW-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3347adc128QQitemZ220245901608QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
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not bad idea. I think the ones on the GTI were OK, not the best. I would send them to you for $5 plus shipping if you don't want new.
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not bad idea. I think the ones on the GTI were OK, not the best. I would send them to you for $5 plus shipping if you don't want new.
Hrmm.
I think I am more convinced that I need both those seals, the main door one and the upper seal we already spoke of.
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I get alot of cold air coming through those fresh air vents on each end of the dash. I never have torn into them to look where the air is coming through cause I'm just a little too lazy sometimes. Most of the time it's not a bother, but when it gets really cold out I notice it. As a temporary expedient I just duct taped them. Not very pretty to be sure, but it did get the job done. Be thankful you're not air cooled, on my old 70 Bug I had when I was a teenager I carried a window scraper to scrape the inside of the windows while I was driving, and had to do that pretty much constantly. :)
Oh and before anyone bashes on me, yes, I do have the handles in the closed position.
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Also, I forgot one, on the GTI you got the parts from it had vents in the door cards. I think to help it close and not be airtight, maybe to just vent. Either way they would let tons of cold air in all at floor level. I took them out and duct taped them from the inside and reinstalled them.
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Also, I forgot one, on the GTI you got the parts from it had vents in the door cards. I think to help it close and not be airtight, maybe to just vent. Either way they would let tons of cold air in all at floor level. I took them out and duct taped them from the inside and reinstalled them.
Yeah, mine didnt have any plastic sheeting behind the doors. I got some 4mil or 6mil plastic from homedepot and put it on there. I used butyl rubber glue stuff on one door and headliner spray adhesive on the other door. I think the door with spray adhesive turned out better, and cleaner. If I need to get behind there I don't have to fight the uber sticky mess of butyl rubber.
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Yup, a hotter t-stat would be better. And X2 on the cardboard keeping air off the engine ;D
I have those upper door seals but having never driven without 'em I can't comment on if it actually helps.
At about -20F or colder I can't keep the side windows clear but the windshield isn't a problem.
I'd try the bubble wrap, I have an aux heater and the stock heater and after it's comfortable inside I can still feel cold air on my arm by the door.
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Yeah, I should have done the math from the get go on the tstat. 80C (176F) is definately on the colder side for ANY engine. Every other tstat I have seen is 195F and 180 is the colder option, like say you use the vehicle to tow stuff frequently.
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The air from the side vents in a Rabbit is always outside temp.
Unless you do the mod that makes them push out whatever the center vents are set at.
Having warm air on my left leg when driving is great,
because over by that door can get cold.
It can also be aimed at the side window to help clear that.
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Also, I forgot one, on the GTI you got the parts from it had vents in the door cards. I think to help it close and not be airtight, maybe to just vent. Either way they would let tons of cold air in all at floor level. I took them out and duct taped them from the inside and reinstalled them.
should be a rubber flapper on the other side of the vent to make it a one way valve basically. to let air out, but not let cold air back in.
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i have only ever driven mk1 diesels, i always thought they warmed up pretty quickly and then eventually got too hot.
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I have driven mk1's as winter cars for the last 4 years (as I am only 20 ;)) it has been a gasser 1.7... But I have a 1.6D I drove last year (spring to fall) and its sitting in my driveway now.. I started it up last week in the 5F cold snap we had, and had the ice melting on the windshield with minutes of just idling! I think it possibly "warmed" up quicker than my 1.7 Gas did.. not producing HOT heat, but it was warmer than the 5F outside lol and enough to melt the ice layer the windshield had.
On just the mk1 basic of winter survival.. Being in Canada, I don't go anywhere in the winter without a GOOD coat on and boots.. shoes never touch my feet with snow on the ground (except at work obviously lol) as I have been stranded in a snow storm before.. the one time my mk1 lets me down! New years eve 930pm middle of NOWHERE! literally a 25min drive to any sort of civilization.
COAT BOOTS AND HAT ;)
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Just the other day I stood by the road while my leaky tire was pumping back up, I always look at the tires when it's cold out (they like to go flat then) and this one tire went flat three times in about two weeks shortly after getting on the road. Oh yeah, all week it's been -30 to -50 F, one day it hit -20 for a short time and then dropped again.
I wear my winter gear when it's this cold......except for my bunny boots, they don't really fit in the pedals very good.
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where do you live
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where do you live
AK
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Try this:
(http://www.foundmark.com/pers/gallery/parkas/onepiece/Image/USAF-suit.jpg)
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lol.. thats a nice lookin' marshmallow suit there
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I make the seals for them...
I just did 5000 ft of upper door seal, my original sample ( MK1 )
Adjust your door pin's for better fitment
use 3m 1300L cement
Email me for the family price
[email protected]
GB
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How do you adjust the doors? I noticed there was a washer in between the mount on the body and the hinge. to get the door to come up and latch well. Is there another way? Like adjusting the strike pin?
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How do you adjust the doors? I noticed there was a washer in between the mount on the body and the hinge. to get the door to come up and latch well. Is there another way? Like adjusting the strike pin?
Both are adjustments, I doubt the washers method is in the bentley though.