VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: chrisg on November 30, 2010, 09:51:59 pm
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how on earth does one do this? i mean the obvious answer is to remove the bolt and slide it off, but how do you remove the bolt if when you turn the ratchet the engine just cycles and bolt remains snug as a bug? ive tried an impact and that doesn't do squat.
i need to get it off to remove the lower timing belt cover, and ultimately replace my timing belt.
oh, and i guess i should mention the engine is out of the car, and stripped almost bare except for the fact i can't get the CS pulley and what ever is behind that remains attached to the block.
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Easiest way is to cut a small notch out of a piece of angle iron so it will be able to sit fluch agains the main part of the sprocket, then drill at least 2 holes to line up with the ones that are on the sprocket, bolt the angle onto the sprocket and place it so it either hits the ground or the sub frame, then pull on your ratchet like a mad man. :P
I personally did it the easy way, since my timming sprocket just slipped and im re-building the engine anyways, I just turned the crank until the pistons rested against a valve, then kept pulling to break the bolt free. I do not recommend doing this.
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Easiest way is to cut a small notch out of a piece of angle iron so it will be able to sit fluch agains the main part of the sprocket, then drill at least 2 holes to line up with the ones that are on the sprocket, bolt the angle onto the sprocket and place it so it either hits the ground or the sub frame, then pull on your ratchet like a mad man. :P
I personally did it the easy way, since my timming sprocket just slipped and im re-building the engine anyways, I just turned the crank until the pistons rested against a valve, then kept pulling to break the bolt free. I do not recommend doing this.
head is off anyways, so the second option is not really an option.
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head is off anyways, so the second option is not really an option.
Ah, didnt know that. Did that angle iron thing make sence though?
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http://www.vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=771&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30
Libby has the tool here. it is page 3, linked from the FAQ in commonly asked questions guide.
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Removing the pully?
or the timing belt sprocket?
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After removing the four allen bolts you might have to smack it with a rubber mallet or something to break some of the rust. Just don't break it by hitting
it with something hard.
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oh really now? well *** i got those out last night, after school i'll try tapping with a rubber mallet and see how she goes. thanks for the info guys!
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Hopefully you have not affected the torque of the sprocket bolt...
Doubtful. From the sounds of it he was using say a half inch drive hatchet which would be damn near impossible to make that bolt budge in the slightest. But you are far more savy than me on these things. That's just my opinion.
I know how you probably feel right now chrisg. You are relieved you dont have to remove the bolt and make tools but you probably feel silly for thinking you did! Been there mgsny times.
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aahah i feel great! pully is off, block painted timing belt in good to go. and no worries about the bolt. that thing didn't budge
thanks again guys for the knowledge!
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I don't see the problem here. If the pan is off, just use a piece of wood between the counter weight and the block to lock the crank and keep it from turning.
BTW, what kind of weenie impact were you using that would not remove the crank bolt?
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I don't see the problem here. If the pan is off, just use a piece of wood between the counter weight and the block to lock the crank and keep it from turning.
BTW, what kind of weenie impact were you using that would not remove the crank bolt?
pan was not off. the head was. but if you read what posted above you'll realize the problem was solved.
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You must have a pretty weenie impact. Both of mine will take the crank bolt out w/o holding the crank. I seriously doubt that you can overstress the crank bolt w/o really being an idiot with the rattle gun, BTW.
The way to remove the bolt w/o an impact when it is laying on the ground is to lay it on its side, wedge the crank and go at it by pushing down on the side where the block is. If the breaker bar is only 6 inches off of the ground the don't tend to flop around too much. If it is really stuck you may need some meat to stand on the block, but not usually.
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What years/models use a TTY front pulley bolt? The old stuff clearly isn't.
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Started sometime during the MK2 production line in the 80's. Anything 12-point with built-in shoulder is TTY. MK2 Bentley, Engine Chapter, Page 3-44.
Earlier bolts (six-point with washer or hex with washer) are NLA at most dealers, so lots of earlier MK1 engines have also been retrofitted with the upgraded TTY part as well.