VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Thezorn on November 01, 2010, 09:21:25 pm
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A while ago the crank nose sprocket stripped on me in my 93 AAZ. I decided to go the cheap and easy ways and just file the crank and replace the sprocket.
Well, it finally has come to bit me in the but. Today while I was at work my girlfriend was driving and it died on her. I immiediately asked her what was happening; white smoke, wont idle, rumbles the whole car, smells terrible. I knew what happend.
This time it will get done right with the TDI sprocket and im guessing I will have to re-do the head.
Anyways I will start tearing it apart as soon as I have more then one day a week off and work less then 12 hours everyday. Ill post pics when I can too.
Just thought I'd share that
-Will
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were you using standard serp belt setup? i am planning on doing the same thing. so im curious for how long did your crank nose last. but i'm using vitara belt pulley(without harmonic balancer), which is not as heavy as aaz harmonic balancer.... and i think crank nose will last longer ;D
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Clutch pulley installed ?
Time to port and polish the head while it's out
I have a extra head if needed, used
GB
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It lasted about 6 months, and I actually just re-torqued/made sure it was still tight a week and a half previous to this. So that just proves that it will choose to go when it wants to. Im definatley recomending doing the TDI sprocket swap (wich I should have done in the first place).
Yes it is the serpentine set-up with the huge pully/harmonic balancer thing.
As for the head im sure its fine it was actually just dropping back down to an idle when coming to a stop in second gear when it slipped so im hoping no bent valves, but when its all apart I will see. And as for P&P of the head, I personally have no idea how to do that well, but when the time comes ill see what I can do.
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oh no thats horrible i just seen you two driving it the other day to. uggghh. well when ever youre doin some work give me a shout if youd like a hand. almost guaranted theres bent valves if it put your timming out any little bit remember i learnt the hard way to. but yea gimma a shout. time to upgrade to that k24 at the same time :p not sure if much is compatible of that extra motor i got sitting there but let me know .
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So, you think that the pulley has slipped, and done some damage, maybe bent valves etc, but only slight [hopefully as it was near idle]. It then ran rough, so at least some of the valves are operating on some of the cylinders.
So my question is:
How can it run and, [assuming the timing can't correct itself], not clash with the other valves, and bring all cylinders into non operation, without you resetting the pulley?Or have you?
Maybe it is some other problem :-\
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depending on the clearances, not all the valves may be badly damaged. some will be worse than others.
I have a 1.6 hydro engine i picked up second hand with a wrecked crank nose (it was an industrial engine). when i pulled the head apart, I found 2 exhaust valves badly bent, 1 more just a little bent and 1 fine.
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Yes it is the serpentine set-up with the huge pully/harmonic balancer thing.
Solid alternator pulley or clutched?
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depending on the clearances, not all the valves may be badly damaged. some will be worse than others.
I have a 1.6 hydro engine i picked up second hand with a wrecked crank nose (it was an industrial engine). when i pulled the head apart, I found 2 exhaust valves badly bent, 1 more just a little bent and 1 fine.
Interesting, but does that explain a running engine? If your engine stopped after the disasterous event, then the state of your valves can be explained...
Problem occured, then first two valves were hit glancing blows and the pistons travelled past, and then came to a halt at valve number 3, bending it slightly. The engine never reached the final valve set. Eg in the sequence 1342, does the damage fit?
Due to an over zealous headskim, my engine has had a knock for more than 2 years :o
(http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1706/number1piston.th.jpg) (http://img834.imageshack.us/i/number1piston.jpg/)
Turns out it was exhaust valves... Other than cosmetic piston damage which is not as bad as it looks [only a couple of thou deep], no issues with valves.
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oh no thats horrible i just seen you two driving it the other day to. uggghh. well when ever youre doin some work give me a shout if youd like a hand. almost guaranted theres bent valves if it put your timming out any little bit remember i learnt the hard way to. but yea gimma a shout. time to upgrade to that k24 at the same time :p not sure if much is compatible of that extra motor i got sitting there but let me know .
Im getting it towed to my house tonight and ill probabley start tearing it apart tomorrow or saturday.
So, you think that the pulley has slipped, and done some damage, maybe bent valves etc, but only slight [hopefully as it was near idle]. It then ran rough, so at least some of the valves are operating on some of the cylinders.
So my question is:
How can it run and, [assuming the timing can't correct itself], not clash with the other valves, and bring all cylinders into non operation, without you resetting the pulley?Or have you?
Maybe it is some other problem :-\
I dont really know what your getting at. But, I do know the pulley slipped since my timming is out. WAY OUT
Just to clearify this did happen once before and I just put a new pulley on the crank and reset the timing. and now it has slipped again.
and after this happend it didnt "run" it pretty much just made a bunch of noise when I tryed to turn it over when I got home, then I checked the timing, and saw what had happend.
Yes it is the serpentine set-up with the huge pully/harmonic balancer thing.
Solid alternator pulley or clutched?
I beleive it is solid, but then again I dont really know the difference between the two :P
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I dont really know what your getting at. But, I do know the pulley slipped since my timming is out. WAY OUT
Just to clearify this did happen once before and I just put a new pulley on the crank and reset the timing. and now it has slipped again.
and after this happend it didnt "run" it pretty much just made a bunch of noise when I tryed to turn it over when I got home, then I checked the timing, and saw what had happend.
Sorry I didn't get from your first post that the timing was definitely way out. I just thought you were guessing, and referring to what had happened previously.
I also didn't know that you had tried to restart it. I took it, that it actually had ran afterwards, all be it terribly, and wouldn't idle properly.
My mistake. Fingers crossed that problem is not too expensive :(
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Car was towed to my house last night and I will hopefully be beggining to tear it apart this weekend.
Working 10 hour days 6 days a week isnt very convinient at the moment :P
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Ive been slowley pulling the car apart with the 2 hours a day I have off between getting home from work and going to bed. Sorry no pic at the moment, Ill try and get some up tomorrow if I have time. Engine will come out either tomorrow or sunday, then I will start pulling it apart.
Hopefully some time off will come soon :P
and this negative 10 degree wind chill will leave :)
I do have one question, when I was taking the line off the vacumm pump that goes to the master cylinder, the part that it connects to the vacumm pump broke off, its the little white rubber maybe plastic? piece. Ill post a picture tomorrow, I dont know if this really makes sence, but.....how screwed am I? Im guessing it wont be cheap
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Finally have time to post on here, The engine is out and apart just have to take the crank and pistons out then it goes off to the machine shop maybe tomorrow. Ill post tones of the pics Ive taken tonight throught the engine coming out.
Almost all the parts Im gunna need are on order, going to have to see what the machine shop says, on wether ill need a bore and new pistons or if they can just clean it and re cross hatch the cylinders. Ordered the arp hardware last night now I just need to order the clutch disk and pressure plate. What is everyone else runing so I know my options?
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Fianlly pictures!
Everything was stripped off and ready to go
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1886.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1899.jpg)
On the top of the vacumm booster. Is this some sort of check valve?
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1883.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1884.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1887.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1889.jpg)
the head looks to be in really good condition, besides the usually small cracks between the valves.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1890.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1891.jpg)
Cam is in very good condition, and no abnormall wear on the lifter.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1892.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1894.jpg)
Finally got the enigine out. Had to separted it from the transmition since I couldnt find a triple square bit for the cv axle flage bolts.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1906.jpg)
Everything is actually cleaner then I thought it would be. Is all the grim on the intake valves normall? from the CCV oil recirculation
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1909.jpg)
Ill get more pics of the cylinders and the bottom of the head as soon as the camera battery charges.
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Forgot to add the clutch, I knew it was slipping
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1920.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1915.jpg)
Everything is going to need a good cleaning.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1911.jpg)
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In Canada you can get a five pack of triple-squares @ Princess Auto for $9. Harbour Freight in the US? You've gone through so much to get the motor out...might as well make sure it's all perfect while it's apart. Just thinking of the dreaded flange seal problem. So easy to deal with in the state you have it now. A reason to drink if you try to do it when it's all together....
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In Canada you can get a five pack of triple-squares @ Princess Auto for $9. Harbour Freight in the US? You've gone through so much to get the motor out...might as well make sure it's all perfect while it's apart. Just thinking of the dreaded flange seal problem. So easy to deal with in the state you have it now. A reason to drink if you try to do it when it's all together....
Yea I am going to for sure. The funny thing is I was talking to my friends dad last night when we were putting a pellet stove in there shop, and it turns out he had a late 80's rabbit and had the same problem. Luckily when he had to do it the local snap-on dealer lived beside him and he picked one up for like 30 bucks, even back in that day they were exspensive. Anyways we searched around there shop and found the 8mm triple square bit that I needed.
So problem solved.
Im going to try and get the block apart today and ready for the machine shop on tuesday, but the -10 degree weather outside isnt very tempting to work in.
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Took the pistons and the crank out today. With more pictures.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1945.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1976.jpg)
I wasnt thinking and cleaned the cyclider like 5 mins before I took the pictures and they got a nice layer of surface rust on them, I does wipe off so its nothing to worry about. Right after that I coated everything it a layer of oil.
Cylinder 1 looks the best out of all of them. (starting from the pulley side of the crank)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1955.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1951.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1963.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1964.jpg)
Cylinder 2
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1954.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1950.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1961.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1962.jpg)
Cylinder 3
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1953.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1949.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1959.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1960.jpg)
Cylinder 4
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1952.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1948.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1956.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1957.jpg)
Pistons all look super grimmy, My question is, besides the grim there is no actually damage to them, and by the looks of it there is no damaga to the cylinders either. Will I need to change the pistons? Or is it possible to get the cylinders cleaned and re-cross hatched and just re-ring them? Or should I over bore the cylinders and get new pistons?
The head has the usuall cracks between all the valves. But looks good otherwise, besides all the valve grim of course.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1965.jpg)
Cylinder 1 actually having the worst crack.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1972.jpg)
Is the valve grim partially there because of the CCV oil vapor coming through the intake? Or is that just from the piston blow by?
One more thing. How does the vacumm pump come out of the block? Do you have to take the gear off the bottom or should it just be able to wiggle its way up and out?
It will be going to the machine shop tuesday, thats all for now.
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Let the machine shop measure your bores and see if you need the overbore. If not then get new rings and hone this. I think your grime is just diesel combustion, could be oil too though.
Vac pump if like the 1.6 should unbolt and come right up out.
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I doubt it, the crosshatch is still visible and I didn't see any gouges on first glance.
Let the machine shop measure your bores and see if you need the overbore. If not then get new rings and hone this. I think your grime is just diesel combustion, could be oil too though.
Vac pump if like the 1.6 should unbolt and come right up out.
Why did you take the engine apart? Looks like if you'd just retimed the engine, things would have been fine. How did the bearings look? How about the piston tops? Prechamber cups?
I assume now you're going to strip the head and get it worked over as well?
Ian
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I doubt it, the crosshatch is still visible and I didn't see any gouges on first glance.
Let the machine shop measure your bores and see if you need the overbore. If not then get new rings and hone this. I think your grime is just diesel combustion, could be oil too though.
Vac pump if like the 1.6 should unbolt and come right up out.
Why did you take the engine apart? Looks like if you'd just retimed the engine, things would have been fine. How did the bearings look? How about the piston tops? Prechamber cups?
I assume now you're going to strip the head and get it worked over as well?
Ian
The reason I took the engine out was to get the crank nose machined for a TDI sprocket. The regular IDI sprocket has slipped on me twice now so it is definatley time for the change. As for the pistons the tops are in great condition and all the bearings, main and con rods, are all in good condition, all the pre cups are tight also. The cyclinders are all in as good as condition as the pictures show, no gouges, or wear.
and for the vac pump there is only the one crows foot type of thing putting pressure down on the top of it? and with that out it should come right out?
Since it is out should I get new main and con rod bearings?
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Quick question. What year TDI am I getting the crank nose sprocket from? The dealer brought one in for an early 97/98 TDI and it has the same style key as the AAZ.
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Should be all TDI...maybe not the early passat, but the rest should be the new sproket. I know the 02 and up had the new design for sure as I have that on mine.
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Thats what I thought. Maybe he just got the wrong part shipped.
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How good is he at the dealer? The VW guy in Wooster Ohio couldn't find you oil without a part number... Next try the BEW engine code and you should be in there like swimwear.
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hey will remember to remove that blue rag from your head :P remember what i did hahaha
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How good is he at the dealer? The VW guy in Wooster Ohio couldn't find you oil without a part number... Next try the BEW engine code and you should be in there like swimwear.
haha ill go back and check whith him again today.
hey will remember to remove that blue rag from your head :P remember what i did hahaha
Yea ill try and remember that joe haha. Im making a valve spring compressor and itll hopefully be done today (and will hopefully work) so i might be able to start P&P the head pretty soon.
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I have a complete set of silicone ( 3 ) 1.9 aaz coolant hoses in blue in stock, The 1.9 aaz breather is done also, I made it 1 ' inch longer for fitment of the MK1 TD snorkel
If you might only install one set and forget about them...
GB
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I have a complete set of silicone ( 3 ) 1.9 aaz coolant hoses in blue in stock, The 1.9 aaz breather is done also, I made it 1 ' inch longer for fitment of the MK1 TD snorkel
If you might only install one set and forget about them...
GB
What would be the chances of getting those in either red or black GB? and price?
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I have blue in stock 105.00 all three shipped with clamp's
red/yellow/black made to order
1.9 aaz breather in any color 27.50
email me at [email protected] for a pic
I have the firewall to head assy GB171-212-611 E ,21.50
all with clamp's
GB
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you have an email sir.
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if u need a valve spring compresor i have one.
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if u need a valve spring compresor i have one.
I actually jusy built one today. Ill show you it tomorrow if you want to check it out.
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Okay quick question. Whats going on here. I got the TDI sprocket today and compared it with the AAZ one before i took it to the machine shop (luckily). The hole for the crank nose looked alot bigger so I messured it just to see. The opening on the TDI sprocket is 34mm and the opening on my AAZ sprocket is 31mm, same witht the crank nose being 31mm..
This is a problem. Shouldn't they be the same size, or at least closer to it? What will I have to do? Or what am I missing.
Will
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What opening? Deep or diameter?
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What opening? Deep or diameter?
all diameters. and its the measurment of the crank nose diameter and the inside diameter of the sprocket.
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I don't know that one. It should end up being a .003" press fit. At 3mm bigger it will not even be a press fit.
I am understanding correctly, right?
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I don't know that one. It should end up being a .003" press fit. At 3mm bigger it will not even be a press fit.
I am understanding correctly, right?
Yes that is completely correct. I thought it should be a press fit also..? only thing i can think of it that the engine is a 93 built in 92. So it could be different. But it still doesnt make sence since you can do the TDI conversions on the 1.6s also.
all I can say is I dont understand.
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anyone know whats happening with this? do I have a different crank? or did I get the wrong sprocket again?
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No clue on that. i just got a TDI sproket and had it machined. maybe this is why you have had issues all along?
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Yea. I got a TDI sprocket off an 02 just like you had, but there is 3mm difference in the sprocket inner diameter (34mm) compared to the crank nose out diameter of 31mm. If anyone could measure either there crank nose or a different TDI sprocket so I know whats going on with mine that would be awsome
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Here is what im looking at.
TDI sprocket.
34mm bore. (the spot where it accepts the crank nose)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2006.jpg)
and a 16mm bore for the bolt.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2015.jpg)
AAZ sprocket.
31mm bore. (again where the sprocket accepts the crank)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2019.jpg)
and a 14mm bore for the bolt.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2017.jpg)
Im guessing I either have a different crank then following years of the AAZ (since mine was a late 92 early 93 model) or this is the wrong sprocket yet again. If the crank is the difference im thinking of just filling in the bore on the TDI sprocket with weld and getting the machine shop to cut the bore the same style, but at 31mm, so it will fit the AAZ crank.
This ever happen to anyone before?
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Your measuring has to be off. I have an 85 1.6 and I believe 1.5 are the only ones with a weird crank nose.
34mm I think is impossible. The 12pt bolt head is 19mm and the flange on the bolt could only be 5mm more at most so it would fall straight through the hole if it were 34mm.
Are you measureing the outside diameter of the sprocket? If so I don't think that matters.
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Your measuring has to be off. I have an 85 1.6 and I believe 1.5 are the only ones with a weird crank nose.
34mm I think is impossible. The 12pt bolt head is 19mm and the flange on the bolt could only be 5mm more at most so it would fall straight through the hole if it were 34mm.
Are you measureing the outside diameter of the sprocket? If so I don't think that matters.
I wish this was true, but unfortunatley my micrometers dont lie to me very often :). Just to make everything clear (or at least try to be) the hole that is 34mm is the one on the TDI sprocket. This hole is the one that should be a press fit, like you were saying, of so many thousandths of an inch. The crank nose which it is getting pressed on to is a 31mm diameter. This in turn gives me 3mm play. I know this is weird, sieng as how noone has seen it before.
Maybe libbybappa has seen something like this, or at least knows what the circumfurance of a normall 1.9tds crank nose is. There has to be a reason for all this madness and im starting to think the crank nose is a different size then it should be.
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I don't have time right now to give actual measurements but hopefully I can offer some insight. According to ETKA, the crank sprocket for the 1Z/AHU TDI (028 105 263E) is a *different part number* from the ALH sprocket (038 105 263 E). In your PM you mention that you got the later one. I have not gotten one of the ALH ones, so I can't confirm that the difference lies there, but I can say for certain that the 1.6TD, 1.9TD (AAZ), and the 1Z/AHU (96-98 TDI) are all the SAME crank nose diameter and the step on the inside of the sprocket matches it. The only explanation I can offer is the possibility that the ALH crank nose is a larger diameter and you got the ALH sprocket instead of the 1Z/AHU one.
Well that at least shines a bit more light on the situation. Ill look into it at the dealer today and see what there parts show.
thank you sir.
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IdIparts.com show's this :
http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1649
GB ??
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Finally firgured it out. The sprocket I had gotten was the ALH one but for some reason when looking under a golf on the dealers computer the engine code AHU or 1Z didnt come up. After a long session of head scratching we looked under jetta just to see, and viola, there it was. Any ways, got the right one on order so I can get back on track again.
As for my port and polish Ive finished doing the intake ports but do I want to open up the exhaust ports on the head aswell? and what about the exausht manifold?
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I just looked at volkswaparts.com, And comparing the pics of old-style (problematic) crank gear, the early TDI (1Z/AHU), and late TDI (ALH) the ALH gear seems to have less space between the pulley mount bolts and the crank hole, than the other two, and as the pulley holes are identical on all, the crank hole must be larger.
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Ya it was the ALH sprocket that was the problem. Got an AHU sprocket and it fit perfect. Its at the machine shop as we speak.
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I have a dumb question, the main caps are labled with numbers 1 to 5 but which end of the engine does the one go to. Does the 1 start at the clutch end or the timing end. No idea why I didnt pay attention to that.
And is there any way to tell what main bearings I have in my car from the part numbers on them? (standerd, overssize or under) besides getting the machine shop to measure them, so i can get some on order right away?
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I just looked at the Bentley for a 1.6 TD (the 1.9 AAZ is basically the same), #1 is timing drive end, #5 clutch end, as per norm in a longitudinal installed engine. As for knowing the bearing sizes, on most engines I've had down to the crank (mostly American and one Brit) a standard bearing would have only a part number, and undersized (reground fit) would be labeled -0.010, -0.020, -0.030 near the part #. However, on the VW, if they were German bearings, the undersize might be labeled
-0.25, -0.50, -0.75 (mm) (within .0005" of -0.030" at -0.75mm). You won't get oversize, as that would involve adding material to the crank, leaving less space for the bearings in their bores.
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perfect, thanks man
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Do you have a 'Freewheel' alternator pulley on your engine? The '98 TDI uses part # 028-903-119AA and it fits the AAZ. I think VW got caught with most of their serp belt engines having the crank gear problem, and applied this to all later cars. see http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5031715-DIY-ABA-AAZ-G60-VR6-MKIII-Engine-upgrade-Clutched-alternator-pulley-helps-prevent-catastrophic-crank-pulley-fail it tells the story. I called concept1, Calgary, http://store.concept1.ca/store/ and the pulley is ~$90 delivered BC. I've seen prices from $70US plus $45 shipping all the way to $190US plus shipping, and some being sold in US are "made in Canada"
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Yes thanks for reminding me, one more thing for the parts list.
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Doesnt autometer make a 1/8 diameter probe for there EGT gauges? If they do im sure having a hell of a time finding it. Dont most of you guys use 1/8 probes? if so what kind of guages do you have and who makes the probe. From what ive read the 1/4 one I have is to slow reacting
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IVE GOT AN EXTRA ONE FROM MY AUTO METER GAUGE SET IF YOU NEED ONE
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opps sorry bout the caps wasnt yelling lol, but if you want it send me a text tomorrow evening, im working during the day but ya ill be around after 5.....
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opps sorry bout the caps wasnt yelling lol, but if you want it send me a text tomorrow evening, im working during the day but ya ill be around after 5.....
Is your a 1/4 inch probe or a 1/8 inch probe joe. I have the 1/4 inch one that come with the kits but i guess the 1/8 inch are alot faster reacting
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I believe what we have is the micro-1000 from aircraft spruce...I don't think it is westach brand but it is a K type and works will all K types
also it is the 1/8" you are looking for.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/micro1pyroprobes.php
IIRC part # 10-01478
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Here's the one I have and it reacts very quickly
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=69&zenid=2e1052ad1e01b4b4fbf123f4b253336b
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Just installed my clutch pulley, here's a copy of what I posted to 'Vortex' on this thread:
DIY: ABA AAZ G60 VR6 MKIII Engine upgrade: Clutched alternator pulley helps prevent catastrophic crank pulley fail.
You were right, it's sleazy easy! The toughest part was breaking the solid pulley nut loose. Even though my alternator is a fresh rebuilt, I needed to put a little hand assist to the socket (cheap 'Altrade' impact). I didn't have a 'Crescent' wrench available (hate the damn things anyway) so I used a set of 9" 'Visegrips' to rotate the tensioner, for belt "RE&RE'. Screwed the new pulley on by hand with assist from T-50 torx, and gave it a bit more after installing belt. Even the 1/4" hop of the tensioner, at low idle, is gone. Dead smooth!
How's things in 'Rip Bum"? I have a stepson, granddaughter, grandson, greatgranddaughter and greatgrandson living there.
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Thanks for the info guys.
On a side note I just realized I ordered the wrong arp head studs!! :-\
So if anyone needs some 11m arp head studs I have a set...
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8v did a while back Hope it works out for someone.
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Ill post them in the classifieds
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i think its the 1/8 not sure its pretty big though, youd have to look at it and see if its what you need, if not peterbilt sells them for 39.99
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Engine should be back from the machine shop within a week, hopefully. The head is all back together and just waiting for paint, and new lifters actually. Clutch and pressure plate hopefully cam in today, but I have to wait till tomorrow to pick them up. Damn you Canada Post !! I ended up going wth the 357ft/lb rated ACT pressure plate along with the 6 puck sprung disk. Hopefully they do me well.
What type of shifter rebuild kits are out there. Ive done some searching and have found the USRT kit for the mk2/3s with good reviews. Have any of you guys used them? If not, what do you use. My shifter linkage could deffinatley use a good refresh.
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I used the missing linkz kit. I like it. It didn't cure all my mess but unlike factory stuff that gets sloppy over a couple months this still functions as the day I got it. Also, I didn't like the instructions. The part where you pull of the pinch bolt didn't tell you to mark it until the next page or at all I can't remember. I went with the complete deal weighted shift rod, short shift and teflon as the 3" downpipe is about 1" away from some of it :D Good stuff.
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Awsome, how do you like the short shift? Ive heard people say it makes the gears almost to close?
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Mine is still sloppy because the roller on the relay ball I bent when I was putting it in and never got around to fixing. I went with the 25% first and now I am at the 50% and like it. Definately not too close for me. It might be when I bend that piece back, but it is just one nut to take off and put back on to change it from 50 to 25.
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okay ill look and see what I can get.
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Quick question. What size allen key? do I need to take the wastegate off a kkk turbo (k14 or k24) I tried my 6mm, to big, 5mm, to small, and the standered sizes in between, Unless it is a 12point and its to rust to see. Anybody know.
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Quick question. What size allen key? do I need to take the wastegate off a kkk turbo (k14 or k24) I tried my 6mm, to big, 5mm, to small, and the standered sizes in between, Unless it is a 12point and its to rust to see. Anybody know.
Anyone know?^^
Im Half done the new intake manifold. Ill get some pics up later. Im off to the machine shop to hopefully pickup the engine!! Ill get some pics of that up later also. (as long as he actually finished)
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Have you tried a 5.5mm?
That would be the third use for that size of socket. :D
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I was thinking mine was 5mm??? I do remember I had to cut mine down so it would fit with out hitting the WG. Use the wastegate like a slide hammer to get it out. Don't pry, as that valve is more bendable than you think :(
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I wish I had, or could find a 5.5 bacause im possitive that is it.
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try a 7/32" if you can find one
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try a 7/32" if you can find one
Yea tried that. It might have been able to take it out but it was at the point were I could see it almost wanting to strip, so I decided to wait. Im going to Have to see what I can find for it.
Anyways, Here are some pics of the new Intake manifold Ive been building.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2115.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2116.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2120.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2121.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2122.jpg)
Still Have alot of work to do till its done, but its coming. I have domed (half circle) caps for the tubing that should hopefully come sometime this coming week. Let me know what you guys think.
Also, does anyone have a DIY or a guide for rebuilding the kkk turbos, I have a k14 and k24 that I am rebuilding and looking at the kits I have no idea what half the stuff is. I searched but I didnt see anything helpful.
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Are those runners going to clear the valve cover?
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I forgot...I didn't loosen mine. I broke everyone except the hard one to get to. I used vice grips and TONS of heat to get that one. Then tons of heat to get the broken pieces out. I replaced them with stainless so hopefully it never happens again. Also much antiseeze added as well.
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Are those runners going to clear the valve cover?
Yea about a quarter inch or so clearance. That was one thing I made sure of.
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That intake is sweet! I can't wait to see it finished!
Any numbers on the plenum sizes/slot area/runner lengths or did you just sorta wing it?
And any possibility of dyno's with both? ;)
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That intake is sweet! I can't wait to see it finished!
Any numbers on the plenum sizes/slot area/runner lengths or did you just sorta wing it?
And any possibility of dyno's with both? ;)
Pretty much winged it. The smaller plenumn is a 2" tube, and the bigger (main plenumn) is 3". The runners are 1 3/8s ID. Pretty much made them the same length as the orignal intake flange. The slot is about 1/2" wide and runs almost the full length. Now that I look at it I should have made the slot Tapered to the end of the manifold, but i guess we will see how this works.
A dyno would be awsome once the car is all back together, and im sure if I ever did one I would try with a stock intake also to see the difference. Only problem is that the closest one is, Im guessing, 7 hours away in Prince George :(
Ill be working on the intake some more tomorrow so Ill keep you guys posted.
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Come to Vancouver, I'm sure someone will have somewhere for you to stay. We can dyno our cars together! :D
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Come to Vancouver, I'm sure someone will have somewhere for you to stay. We can dyno our cars together! :D
That would be awsome. Ill make sure I let you guys know if I come down there this summer
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Well, I gotta say I feel for you. I am new to the AAZ (83 Vanagon with a 1.9 IDI) but spend an hour or so every night reading various articles on this forum. I guess that makes me a "lurker" but I'll chime in when I can add something.
Reading of your plight makes me pay close attention to all the talk about spinning the timing belt sprocket for sure. Maybe I should consider the same for mine. I have no idea as to what the PO did or didn't do but I think I'll check it now - for sure.
I must commend you on your stamina and your willingness to spend your valuable time keeping everyone in the loop.
Big thanks!
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Nice build and I love the aluminum welding. What type of welder to you have ? Why the double plenums ?
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Nice build and I love the aluminum welding. What type of welder to you have ? Why the double plenums ?
I actually use a TIG welder at the local college, I am a welder by trade and am good friends with the intsructors so they let me use the stuff up there. Its a miller tig, but im not sure what model it is. Its an awsome machien though. Not really sure why I did the dual plenums, just sorta felt like it would work nice. I have more updated pics Ill post up later. Ended up re-doing the top half, so it looks alot cleaner, ill post them up later on today.
Right now im off to the machine shop to have them tell me there still not done with the block and the crank...wish me luck.
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Here are the pics of the pretty much finished manifold. I still just have to weld a piece of 2" tubing onto the intake and and put the 2" cap on the opposite end, then it will be done.
Back
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2123.jpg)
Front
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2126.jpg)
Slit, I went with a small taper this time.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2125.jpg)
Cap
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2127.jpg)
Then Ill have to clean it up, and make it look nice. Surprisingly the machine shop isnt done! even though they have had it all since before the new year...yay.
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Does anyone have a copy of instructions or even a DIY for that matter for re-building the kkk k14 or 24 turbos? I bought a kit off a local guy but I have no idea what most of the little things are for :P
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Finally got the the engine back from the machine shop!!!! They ended up cleaning the cylinders, acids bathing the block and crank, polishing all the bearing surfaces, machined the crank for the TDI sprocket, resurfaced the flywheel, polished the IM shaft bearing surfaces and cleaned the pistons and Con rods. I am so happy to finally have the engine back to work on.
I have one question as of right now. Im just installing the new Main bearings into the block and there is one thing Im not sure about. I have 1 extra bearing with a slot in it (same as the ones that get pressed into the block) Which end gets 2 of these bearings, the clutch end or the timing end? Ive skimmed through my bentley but can see anything specifeing this.
Thanks in advance, Ill try and get some pics up later also.
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I remember running into this same thing, I had Ed there to tell me where it goes. IIRC, the furthest away from the oil pump to get better lubrication, but hopefully someone else can chime in, as I'm not sure if that was it
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I remember running into this same thing, I had Ed there to tell me where it goes. IIRC, the furthest away from the oil pump to get better lubrication, but hopefully someone else can chime in, as I'm not sure if that was it
Thats what I ended up doing.
Does anyone have a copy of instructions or even a DIY for that matter for re-building the kkk k14 or 24 turbos? I bought a kit off a local guy but I have no idea what most of the little things are for :P
Still looking for something to help me out with this.
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http://www.suzukituning.com/General/KKK%20K14%20Turbo/KKK14TurboRebuild.htm
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=13357.0
I had these two sites bookmarked... does either one of those help you?
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So how much are you billing to make those plenums? ;D I've been following your build, and really want one. Hell I'll even supply the AL and beer.
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http://www.suzukituning.com/General/KKK%20K14%20Turbo/KKK14TurboRebuild.htm
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=13357.0
I had these two sites bookmarked... does either one of those help you?
Awsome Dude!!! Im sure that is going to help tones
So how much are you billing to make those plenums? ;D I've been following your build, and really want one. Hell I'll even supply the AL and beer.
Hahaha Im not sure. Ill get my car running first and see how it does. Cost wise it was fairly cheap, probabley around $30 for the aluminum from a local shop. It was definatley time consuming though, but it would be alot easier to make another one that for sure. Then I just used the bottom flange off of the stock manifold and built up from it. Only hard part would be finding one of the manifolds again. But if you really want on let me know and Ill see what I can do.
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I have one question as of right now. Im just installing the new Main bearings into the block and there is one thing Im not sure about. I have 1 extra bearing with a slot in it (same as the ones that get pressed into the block) Which end gets 2 of these bearings, the clutch end or the timing end? Ive skimmed through my bentley but can see anything specifeing this.
Thanks in advance, Ill try and get some pics up later also.
does anyone have a for sure answer to this? i put mine in the number 3 main bearing cap. so the middle one. is that wrong?
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You can make a 360 degree slot bearing on edit: #4 main (2 'top' halves like this ) instead of a 180 degree slot (one slot , one solid) which promotes full lubrication of edit: #4 main 100% of the time instead of 50% of the time. IMO edit: #4 main supplies oil pressure to not only rod #3 but also the head.
This was edited a long time ago and that is why it says edit in it. I completely ripped it off of the FAQ section, engine rebuilding tips, started by Myke_w
THis is how I did mine.
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Got both turbos ripped apart today to rebuild. The stock k14 isnt going to need a rebuild by the looks of it, but the k24 will. Ill try to get some pics later
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Ooohhh! Are you doing K14/K24 compounds the same as me? ;D
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Ooohhh! Are you doing K14/K24 compounds the same as me? ;D
Yes sir! Hopefully mine turn out as nice :P How is your car doing now?
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The wastegate on my K24 is seized right now, so I can't floor it for very long at all or my boost will just skyrocket!
Plus for some reason, my boost gauge cut out, so I'm being pretty careful driving right now as I'm afraid to overspool the turbo
All is well though, engine feels very strong. Once I get my IC hooked up and full fuel, it should go fairly well ;)
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The wastegate on my K24 is seized right now, so I can't floor it for very long at all or my boost will just skyrocket!
Plus for some reason, my boost gauge cut out, so I'm being pretty careful driving right now as I'm afraid to overspool the turbo
All is well though, engine feels very strong. Once I get my IC hooked up and full fuel, it should go fairly well ;)
Man, I am sooo excited to get my car going!!
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Me too!
If you have trouble finding all the fittings you need for your turbo oil feed lines, let me know and I could pull together whatever you need and send it your way :)
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Me too!
If you have trouble finding all the fittings you need for your turbo oil feed lines, let me know and I could pull together whatever you need and send it your way :)
Awsome dude if i need anything ill let you know
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Updates finally, havent put any pics up ina while so heres a bunch.
Had to deal with this
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1884.jpg)
So I did this, Im not sure what the cap for the vac booster was made of but it was a b**ch to tap. Or maybe my tap was garbage..
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2132.jpg)
Parts parts parts.
ACT Clutch/pressure plate
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2150.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2151.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2152.jpg)
Tial 38mm wastegate
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2146.jpg)
Aircraftspruce EGT probe
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2149.jpg)
POR15'd Engine bay, half done
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2140-1.jpg)
Cleaned K14 and K24 / rebuild k24
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2148.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2155.jpg)
Lapped the k24 wastegate valve seat.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2159.jpg)
I decided to try something new. The K14 is going to be externally wastegated so I deciding to cut the wastegate housing off the turbo. This will give me more room for the K24 to fit in there and also more room for the external gate to go.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2160.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2161.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2162.jpg)
Just have to weld up the holes, I guess I will see if it was a good idea :P
Engine is all together and painted, Has anyone else used HASTINGS piston rings? they are what my machinist got me.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2164.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2172.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2169.jpg)
Also got a new inst. cluster with a tach in it. Is there any way to swap the speedo/odometer assembleys from cluster to cluster so I can keep the milage the same?
That mostley it for now, more to come soon!
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Got the lifters in the head, oil pump in and pan on and a bit more paint done today. I had my camera but luckily my girlfriend had left the sd card for the camera in the computer....or maybe it was me ;D
Tried cleaning the tranny the other day at the car wash but it barely touched the dirt and grim on that thing. What is the best way to clean it?
Im thinking warm water pressure washer and some engine degreaser for my next try.
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Scotts brite pads, super clean, gloves and hours of work. Have fun. It's worth it when you get paint on it
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Scotts brite pads, super clean, gloves and hours of work. Have fun. It's worth it when you get paint on it
My worst fear haha, I guess it has to be done
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I love the black color on yours and the parts of mine that are black. That said I will never paint another thing black on my engine again. I have had an oil leak since the first start and I think I found it last week. You will NEVER be able to tell where fuel, antifreeze, oil, and whatever else can leak out of these is coming from with it black. I love the way it looks, but if I were you and had enough coin for 2 more cans of engine paint I would try to recolor it :D
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I love the black color on yours and the parts of mine that are black. That said I will never paint another thing black on my engine again. I have had an oil leak since the first start and I think I found it last week. You will NEVER be able to tell where fuel, antifreeze, oil, and whatever else can leak out of these is coming from with it black. I love the way it looks, but if I were you and had enough coin for 2 more cans of engine paint I would try to recolor it :D
GHAAA, you dont know how many times I have heard that haha. I think ill run to the hardware store today and snag another colour.
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Wow !! watching this one forsure !!
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Had to deal with this
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_1884.jpg)
The little rubber bit there is a check valve. I suspect that without it you'll end up with crankcase oil/mist getting sucked into your brake booster and possibly wreck the booster diaphragm. Might take quite some time, tho. Also, I hope that you made sure that the threads of the new fitting didn't protrude below the surface of the top plate and you didn't leave any burr on the hole. In either case, the vanes of the vac pump will get trashed. I recently got a brass check valve from McMaster and installed it into one vac pump that had the nipple broken off. I haven't installed and tested it, tho.
Yea I was thinking about that but ive been told that it works fine to do this, and my local dealer cant get me a new one so this was my only option. I made sure the threads of the brass fitting arent poking through also.
I ended up painting a grey "oil leak detection" strip around the head to block sealling area, since ive been razzed about it more then a few times ;D
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Please report back if/when your brake booster fails in the next year or two.
Will do, thanks
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Havent had any updates for a while so here are some pics.
This is how the engine sits till I get a welder in the next few days hopefully
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2188.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2189.jpg)
Found a link on vortex that said a mk4 cabin filter/housing was "plug and play" with mk3s so I gave it a try.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2181.jpg)
Sure enough it fits like a glove
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2184.jpg)
Planing on relocating the PS reservior to here:
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2186.jpg)
to free up some space for the intercooler pipes
Transmision got a well deserved face lift.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2196.jpg)
Started to tackle some of the rust that inhabited my floor
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2192.jpg)
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2193.jpg)
And the oil pressure guage and new cluster with a Tach I picked up from forum members:
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/IMG_2191.jpg)
I was searching forever for replacements for the crappy stock cluster lights and finally came across "super bright LED.com"
They sell the tiny twist style bulbs that we need for our clusters and they actually work great, they are super bright haha!!
Thats It for now, will have more soon hopefully, when I get a welder in my possesion.
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This is how it sits right now, still have to put the wastegate on and figure out where my air filter is going to go.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/compounds.jpg)
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Good news, got the engine running today after scrtching my head for about an hour finally realizing I have the fuel cut-off switch wire mixed up with the other guy.
One question. I replaced my inst. cluster that originally had a clock in it to one that has a tach. in it. The tach doesnt work. Im guessing this is beacuse my car doesnt have the wire coming from the "w" terminal to the inst. cluster harness built into it, since it came with a clock.
All I should need to do is run the wire to the right number pin in the harness correct?
Only problem ive had so far is the fuel filter spitting out a ton or air... it will get fixed tomorrow though.
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how have I missed this build! twin turbo setup looks amazing!
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how have I missed this build! twin turbo setup looks amazing!
haha thanks, hopefully it runs well too. It will be insured and going for its first drive this afternoon.
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how have I missed this build! twin turbo setup looks amazing!
haha thanks, hopefully it runs well too. It will be insured and going for its first drive this afternoon.
Sweet! Can't wait to hear how yours runs!
You're correct about the W terminal... mine was a black/red wire coming off of the alternator. I've got mine run straight to the cluster harness (U1/06) skipping the fuse box
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You're correct about the W terminal... mine was a black/red wire coming off of the alternator. I've got mine run straight to the cluster harness (U1/06) skipping the fuse box
Okay cool, thats what I figured.
Ill see if I can get a video tomorrow. Only thing im having problems with now is that my fuel filter is spitting out tones of air. I remember reading something about how the return line plastic thingy has something to do with air getting into the system.
Just to be sure I changed the lines that got between the tank hard lines and the fuel filter with clear fuel line to make sure that no air was getting into the system there, luckily none is. Could it be that the filter still isnt full of fuel? It was about half empty when I stored it..
But the engine has ran enough for me to think that the filter should be full of fuel by now?
You guys have any ideas?
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Sweet! Can't wait to hear how yours runs!
You're correct about the W terminal... mine was a black/red wire coming off of the alternator. I've got mine run straight to the cluster harness (U1/06) skipping the fuse box
Do you remember off hand what if you had to splice it into and exsisting wire in the harness? or was the little slot in the harness empty?
Im having troubles getting the tach to work.
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See the PM, and I just spliced it into the wire coming from the fuse box to the cluster, there was a wire already there
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Okay cool, thats what I figured.
Ill see if I can get a video tomorrow. Only thing im having problems with now is that my fuel filter is spitting out tones of air. I remember reading something about how the return line plastic thingy has something to do with air getting into the system.
Just to be sure I changed the lines that got between the tank hard lines and the fuel filter with clear fuel line to make sure that no air was getting into the system there, luckily none is. Could it be that the filter still isnt full of fuel? It was about half empty when I stored it..
But the engine has ran enough for me to think that the filter should be full of fuel by now?
You guys have any ideas?
If your filter has the plastic tee on top that the return lines pass through then that'd be where I start looking. Problem #1 is they can crack / leak / fail to seat properly on the filter. The retaining clip isn't particularly brilliant in my opinion and probably has a fair bit to do with problems. You can try slathering some vaseline all over the seal and then putting it back on, purely for testing though. The diesel will dissolve the vaseline pretty quickly.
Problem #2 is that it is a recirculating valve, so any air that DOES get in there will continue to get circulated back to the filter again until the fuel temperature gets high enough to close the valve. Total PITA.
My advise would be to replace your filter with one that doesn't have that feature - the '85 filter seems to be the one:
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/wizard.jsp?year=1985&make=VW&model=JET-D-001&category=E&part=Fuel+Filter
Then just connect the return lines together. No more air circulating!
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This is how it sits right now, still have to put the wastegate on and figure out where my air filter is going to go.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/compounds.jpg)
:o TWINS!
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Okay cool, thats what I figured.
Ill see if I can get a video tomorrow. Only thing im having problems with now is that my fuel filter is spitting out tones of air. I remember reading something about how the return line plastic thingy has something to do with air getting into the system.
Just to be sure I changed the lines that got between the tank hard lines and the fuel filter with clear fuel line to make sure that no air was getting into the system there, luckily none is. Could it be that the filter still isnt full of fuel? It was about half empty when I stored it..
But the engine has ran enough for me to think that the filter should be full of fuel by now?
You guys have any ideas?
If your filter has the plastic tee on top that the return lines pass through then that'd be where I start looking. Problem #1 is they can crack / leak / fail to seat properly on the filter. The retaining clip isn't particularly brilliant in my opinion and probably has a fair bit to do with problems. You can try slathering some vaseline all over the seal and then putting it back on, purely for testing though. The diesel will dissolve the vaseline pretty quickly.
Problem #2 is that it is a recirculating valve, so any air that DOES get in there will continue to get circulated back to the filter again until the fuel temperature gets high enough to close the valve. Total PITA.
My advise would be to replace your filter with one that doesn't have that feature - the '85 filter seems to be the one:
http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/wizard.jsp?year=1985&make=VW&model=JET-D-001&category=E&part=Fuel+Filter
Then just connect the return lines together. No more air circulating!
Perfect Ill try and source one of those badboys locally today, thanks.
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Twint turbo :o :o :o
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This is how it sits right now, still have to put the wastegate on and figure out where my air filter is going to go.
(http://i744.photobucket.com/albums/xx81/theshow179/compounds.jpg)
:o TWINS!
Twint turbo :o :o :o
Compounds :P
On a side note, the turbo was puking out oil from the exhaust side since I had it on a slant and completely forgot that it was going to leak. Sooo..Engine came back out after about 30 mins of cursing and calling myself an Idiot. Got it mostley figured now, Had to make a new motor mount and bracket. Hopefully have it all back in and going today.
But if it leaks oil again....anyone want a free car?
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Free car you say? *perk*
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If it's not leaking then it must be low on oil. :P
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Oil leaks are just your car marking it's territory!
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I prefer to call it ''slowly changing oil'' instead of ''oil leakage'' :)
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If it's not leaking then it must be low on oil. :P
Hahah yea I think thats how its gunna be!
Its almost all back together. Ill get some pics of the motor mount and such if I can later.
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Well, there is still a few oil leaks I need to deal with.. Somehow forgot the oil filter housing gasket when it was all going back together ???
Also having problems with the oil drain for the second turbo. How high is the oil level supposed to be in the pan when its full? My drain bung is pretty well as high as it can be on the pan but It is still somehow under the oil level. The oil flows fine for like 2 minutes while the engine runs but then it seems like once the drain line fills up it starts to back up into the turbo and leak out of the exhaust side into the DP.
It alsmost seems like its creating some sort of sump though. When I check my dip stick it is right at the lowest notch.
I think I might try and hook the drain up to the hole in the block that the K14 is draining into and see if that makes a difference..?
What do you guys think?
Im sorta scratching my head at this point.
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That's weird...
My bung is below the oil level as well, but I haven't had any problems with it backing up the line. What size return line are you running and does it run over the CV or under it? If it's running over the CV with a 90deg fitting, you might be getting backed up at that fitting
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That's weird...
My bung is below the oil level as well, but I haven't had any problems with it backing up the line. What size return line are you running and does it run over the CV or under it? If it's running over the CV with a 90deg fitting, you might be getting backed up at that fitting
Yes it is over the CV. Thats sorta what I was thinking. Is yours under the CV? Wanna post a pic? It seems like there should be more then enough room for the there..
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Yes, mine is under. 1/2" with a JIC Male bung welded into the pan
I won't be able to get you a pic for a while though. It's got tons of clearance, although my car is fairly low, not sure what it would look like when your K frame is more than 2" from the ground :P
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Yes, mine is under. 1/2" with a JIC Male bung welded into the pan
I won't be able to get you a pic for a while though. It's got tons of clearance, although my car is fairly low, not sure what it would look like when your K frame is more than 2" from the ground :P
Alright thats what I shall do, thanks. My car is pretty low too so if yours works it shouldn't be a problem.
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Yes, mine is under. 1/2" with a JIC Male bung welded into the pan
I won't be able to get you a pic for a while though. It's got tons of clearance, although my car is fairly low, not sure what it would look like when your K frame is more than 2" from the ground :P
Done. The turbo is still leaking a bit of oil (less then before) out of the exhuast side. So now the only two things it could be is...either the turbo itself is a dud, which is more then likley, or since I have the main body twisted a bit it is causing the oil to not drain properly.
Could have the main body of the turbo clocked so the feed isnt right at the peak and the drain is directly below it cuase it too leak like this? Mine is probabley off by about 20 degrees.
Input it greatly appreciated, This is pretty much the last speed bump till shes on the road :D
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I think the most the turbo feed/drain can be angled is 15*.
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I think the most the turbo feed/drain can be angled is 15*.
Yea I think thats part of my problem.
Now that I think about it, I remember there being oil in the exhaust side of the turbo when I got it but thought nothing of it then. Maybe its just the turbo...
Anyways im done fighting with this turbo, Im gunna pick up another K24 that I know is good from a local buddy here and see it that fixes my problems.
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Well It looks like the turbo was the problem all along. After fighting with it I was able to get the old one off the car without pulling the engine out, then out the new one on. Hopefully im not speeking to soon though :P
If I can get the exhaust done today Ill try and get a video of it running and maybe pull it out of the shelter its in.
One more thing that I need to figure out is the tach in my new cluster. I have a wire run from my "W" terminal right to the number 10 (green) wire in the back of the cluster harness, but It doesnt want to move the tach.
So I guess I need to trouble shoot this, im gunna go pick up a frequence reading multimeter today and test the alternator. If the alternator is good then I guess its the cluster that is done. Has anyone ever tried to fix one of the clusters? Is there a write up on it to follow?
anymore help on this is deffinatley appreciated!
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Well It looks like the turbo was the problem all along. After fighting with it I was able to get the old one off the car without pulling the engine out, then out the new one on. Hopefully im not speeking to soon though :P
If I can get the exhaust done today Ill try and get a video of it running and maybe pull it out of the shelter its in.
One more thing that I need to figure out is the tach in my new cluster. I have a wire run from my "W" terminal right to the number 10 (green) wire in the back of the cluster harness, but It doesnt want to move the tach.
So I guess I need to trouble shoot this, im gunna go pick up a frequence reading multimeter today and test the alternator. If the alternator is good then I guess its the cluster that is done. Has anyone ever tried to fix one of the clusters? Is there a write up on it to follow?
anymore help on this is deffinatley appreciated!
Okay, so my alternator is putting out the frequncy from the "W" terminal as it should. Not sure If there is an actuall amount it should be reading but at idle it was about 400 hz and rose with the RMPs like I think it should..? Sooo I guess this means my cluster is to blame for the tach not working?
On another note..the alternator doesnt seem to be putting out any power now. If im reading my bentley correctly it should be putting out the 13 to 14v (or what ever it is) from the "B+" terminal. When I test the battery when the car is running I get 10V right now (dead battery). Even when I test right off of the B+ terminal I get the same reading of the battery voltage, meaning it isnt putting out any power, right?
From what I can see there isnt any reason for the alternator to not be working, besides of course if its dead.
Is there any wires I could have forgotten to connect that would interupt the charging circut?
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I thought blue was color of the "W" wire.
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Blue is the cluster wire. Red/Black is the tack lead wire.
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Blue is the cluster wire. Red/Black is the tack lead wire.
The wire coming off the W terminal is black/red. As for the cluster harness I have tried the blue, which looks like it could be the right one in the bentley wiring diagrams, and also the green, which is in the #10 slot in the cluster harness. neither have worked. once I figure out why my alternator isnt charging Ill try and troubleshoot this a bit more.
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Blue wire from the cluster goes to the Alt. Its the 12V signal to start the charging. Yes the Tach wire is Blk/Rd.
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When the car is started, is the Batt. light still on or does it go out?
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When the car is started, is the Batt. light still on or does it go out?
It stays on. I did mess around with the wire a bit though. If its not connected could that be the reason the alternator isnt charging? Sorta like the older GM's that need to have the little bit of resistance from the light in the dash for the alt to work?
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When the car is started, is the Batt. light still on or does it go out?
Played with the wiring and made sure everything was good. still no luck. When the key is on the bettery light is on, when I turn the engien on the battery light stays on and when I rev the engine the light still stays on. Check the B+ terminal and no voltage coming out of it, only reads the battery power. Check the battery voltage and its at 11-11.5V.
Could a low battery be the problem here? The battery Im using in pretty low ATM. I just charged it and it read 12.9V, but as soon as I turned it over it drops to around 11-11.5V. Does the exciter wire need a good 12V feed to start the charging? if so could my battery be the problem?
What is the best way to troubleshoot this problem?
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Finally got around to testing the exciter wire (B+) ?? if thats the right one..? and it has a good 12V power supply once the key is on. So the alt. is getting excited.. any ideas?
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Well, Big red wire has batt. voltage, little blue wire has batt. voltage: No charge? maybe brush/regulator pack?? Or give it a smack w/hammer?
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Yeah, give it a wack with a hammer. If that doesn't fix it, it must be electrical.
Pull off the brush pack and see if they have any life left of them.
Start the car, check again if the little blue wire has 12V at the Alt. If it does, check with DVM (digital volt meter)to see if the Alt. is putting out voltage at the big red lead at the connection. It could be the connection at the Alt. too. The blue wire is from the cluster to send 12V to the Alt. to start charging.
Big red wire is always going to be Batt. voltage when engine is off.
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Well, Big red wire has batt. voltage, little blue wire has batt. voltage: No charge? maybe brush/regulator pack?? Or give it a smack w/hammer?
Yea Ill give it a good smack with a hammer today and see if that knocks some sence into it ;D
If not ill pull it apart and see what I can find.
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Well, Big red wire has batt. voltage, little blue wire has batt. voltage: No charge? maybe brush/regulator pack?? Or give it a smack w/hammer?
Yea Ill give it a good smack with a hammer today and see if that knocks some sence into it ;D
If not ill pull it apart and see what I can find.
Turns out some idiot hooked up the red wire from the alt to the wrong bolt when he was building the engine.. ;D anyways its all good now, tach works, oil pressure light went out, and the battery is getting charged.
On a bad note there seems to be something wrong with my clutch/transmission...
When the engine is running and I push the clutch in it seems to start almost grinding something, release the clutch and its all good.
I can also put it in gear with the engine running and not depressing the clutch and it doesnt grind. Pretty sure something is not working how its supposed too..
any ideas?
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Awsome about the charging issue. The tach wire/ black with red wire is also what is needed for the dynamic oil control in the cluster. Cool, glad you got it figured out.
Now the clutch. When you put the trans to the engine, did you replace the clutch. Forgive me if you did in earlier posts. It kind of sounds like the clutch fork is slightly broken/worn and is getting worse. Just a thought.
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Awsome about the charging issue. The tach wire/ black with red wire is also what is needed for the dynamic oil control in the cluster. Cool, glad you got it figured out.
Now the clutch. When you put the trans to the engine, did you replace the clutch. Forgive me if you did in earlier posts. It kind of sounds like the clutch fork is slightly broken/worn and is getting worse. Just a thought.
Hahaha yea that was a HUGE facepalm moment when I realised that, thanks for youre help spearco!
After alot of searching I found this http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?3399144-Broke-need-your-assitance..-020-noise (http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?3399144-Broke-need-your-assitance..-020-noise)
This is the exact same problem Im having with the ACT clutch/pressure plate. I never measured or test fitted the disk on the actually input splines on the tranny, so by the looks of it I was sent a 24mm one but I need a 22mm one. So when I push the pedal down it was (disengaging) spelling?
the disk from the PP and trying to put it on the tranny splines, but since hole in the disk was alot bigger it was just slipping and grinding on the splines on the tranny. Time to go clutch shopping.
I think for now I might just get a stock disk since I can have one in 2 days, but I will see how much it is tomorrow.
What do you guys suggest for the clutch disk? something a bit better to moderatley better then stock?
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Cant get a good stock disk locally so im going to have to do some shopping. Where is the best place going to be for me to get a stage 1 or 2 disk for my car.
On a side note I found out my car doesnt actually have the OG transmision in it...its has a 1.8l gasser tranny.
Or at least thats what I was told by the dealer today when I was talking to the guy there that had worked on it before I got it.
Is this gunna change what I am going to be looking for when It comes to the clutch disk. I believe the code of this tranny is AUG? Compaired to the ATH it should have with it....lame.
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I did clutchnet.
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I did clutchnet.
There is SOOOOOOOO many choicess AHHHH ;D
What did you get? haha
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YOU HAVE AN AUG TRANS?!?!
you will hate it, better start shopping for trannies too. cause the AUG trannies SUCK behind a diesel..
boy, you can rip thru the gears, but they scream pretty good at highway speed..
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YOU HAVE AN AUG TRANS?!?!
you will hate it, better start shopping for trannies too. cause the AUG trannies SUCK behind a diesel..
boy, you can rip thru the gears, but they scream pretty good at highway speed..
Hahaha yea I know, just actually found this out yesterday when I was talking to the dealer. The PO didnt want to have the reverse fixed in the original ATH trans so they got this crappy AUG to replaace it...The bottom of the tranny where the markings are is super scraped off so I couldnt figure out the code before.
Always wondered why it reved SO HIGH at highway speeds (or seemed to, since I didnt have a tach to tell)
With this tranny (AUG) at 100KPH ill be reving at 3008rpms, but the ATH it should have I would be at about 2550....this alot explains the crappy fuel milage when highway driving.
Does anyone know If the MK4 (02J or 02A)?? trannys from a TDI have the same bell housing bolt pattern as our mk3 trannys?
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Does anyone know If the MK4 (02J or 02A)?? trannys from a TDI have the same bell housing bolt pattern as our mk3 trannys?
Yes, they do. All of VW's 4 cylinder motors bolt to the same bellhousing.
02A or 02J are basically the same transmission; internals are nearly identical, except 6sp 02J's exist. The myth that 02J's hold more power is false. With all necessary pieces (off the top of my head; trans, clutch, pedal box, brake fluid reservoir, clutch master and clutch slave, shifter box & cables), it all bolts in.
02M is stronger, but you need custom mounts and custom axles to fit it.
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Does anyone know If the MK4 (02J or 02A)?? trannys from a TDI have the same bell housing bolt pattern as our mk3 trannys?
Yes, they do. All of VW's 4 cylinder motors bolt to the same bellhousing.
02A or 02J are basically the same transmission; internals are nearly identical, except 6sp 02J's exist. The myth that 02J's hold more power is false. With all necessary pieces (off the top of my head; trans, clutch, pedal box, brake fluid reservoir, clutch master and clutch slave, shifter box & cables), it all bolts in.
02M is stronger, but you need custom mounts and custom axles to fit it.
Awsome, thats what It looked like to me. I can only imagine how nice a 6 speed 02J would be in my car haha. Maybe in the future though.I think Ill try and track down an ATH for now.
Still trying to find a good clutch disk though. I cant even seem to find a stock disk anywhere locally. Does anyone know if the clutch disk are different for the 1.8L gasser and the 1.9TD? I do know they are both 210mm but the only part im having a hard time figuring out is if they have the same spline diameter
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Got the right clutch disk in it now and took it for the first test drive today, Drives nice, and man do the turbos scream!
Could the fact that my timing may be to far advanced cause it to not build boost very quickly?
I was getting about 15psi at 3-3.5k rpms, which is waaay off what it shoud be.
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Hmmm that's surprising re: your boost. My K24 by itself can get 15 PSI around 3K. Retarding the timing a touch can help spool the turbo(s) up better, but I'd check for a boost / exhaust leak first.
What are your EGTs at?
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Hmmm that's surprising re: your boost. My K24 by itself can get 15 PSI around 3K. Retarding the timing a touch can help spool the turbo(s) up better, but I'd check for a boost / exhaust leak first.
What are your EGTs at?
Didnt have the gauge hooked up last night, my guess is that it has a bit of an exhaust leak. Ill try and track it down today.
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Hmmm that's surprising re: your boost. My K24 by itself can get 15 PSI around 3K. Retarding the timing a touch can help spool the turbo(s) up better, but I'd check for a boost / exhaust leak first.
What are your EGTs at?
Well I did have an exhaust leak, fixed it but we are still only make maybe 10psi boost. Is it possible for the pump timing to be causing this?
EGT's get to about 600 on a hardish excell.
Could old fuel have any effect on this?
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If your EGTs are only hitting 600°F then you need more fuel!
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If your EGTs are only hitting 600°F then you need more fuel!
The wierd thing is I havent touched the pump since its been down. How it is I had been hitting 17 psi with the K14 no problem previously. Im gunna check out the wastegates today and make sure they arent opening to easily.
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Well it looks like im having wategate issues with both turbos so that why Im not building boost. Unfortunatley I cant see myself being able to fix them so it looks like I am in the market for two new turbos, or at least a K24 with a working wastegate.
Thats really the only thing I can thing it would be as of now, When i drive it builds boost normall till about 6-7 PSI then STOPS. I wound it up to about 4k and It slowly built boost to about 10 PSI. Seems like it has large leaks in the wategates... or at least thats all I can think of now.
I know when I first played with the K14s wastegate when I first had the car, I backed the pring tension screw all the way out and it only built about 3-5 PSI.
I cant really think of any other things it could be at this point. I did have an exhaust leak but I fixed it. Boost isnt leaking out anywhere thats I could find either.
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hey will when i had that k24 on my car with the wastegate welded like it was when i gave it to you she built 20+ no problem without trying so i honestly doubt its that turbo cause nothing changed on it. but that sucks about not building more then you are getting oh and my phone kinda got ran over on sunday so im waiting for my new one to come in the mail should be here by friday i hope fingers crossed im lost without it.
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hey will when i had that k24 on my car with the wastegate welded like it was when i gave it to you she built 20+ no problem without trying so i honestly doubt its that turbo cause nothing changed on it. but that sucks about not building more then you are getting oh and my phone kinda got ran over on sunday so im waiting for my new one to come in the mail should be here by friday i hope fingers crossed im lost without it.
Yea I know the turbo works, but I needed the wastegate on it working and I thought the one from that old k24 I got was going to work, but obviously it doesnt. if nothing turns up then ill probabley just throw that closed up wategate on there and see if its any better.
On a side note, even at 6 -7 PSI the car did run fairley strong and well
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Still, I do wonder why your EGTs are so low... I mean at only 600°F do you have enough heat in the exhaust to build any more boost than that?
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Still, I do wonder why your EGTs are so low... I mean at only 600°F do you have enough heat in the exhaust to build any more boost than that?
Well it sure built alot more boost then this when it was just the k14 with the pump set the same, so that shouldnt really be a reason. Remember it is compound turbod (even if its not working) and intercooled.
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Maybe I missed this but how do you have the wastegates plumbed in? Also what is the boost on the LP turbo when you are seeing 6-7psi? With my setup when I am running 6psi system pressure my LP turbo is still at an idle. Maybe 1/2psi. I would focus more on the k14 right now.
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Maybe I missed this but how do you have the wastegates plumbed in? Also what is the boost on the LP turbo when you are seeing 6-7psi? With my setup when I am running 6psi system pressure my LP turbo is still at an idle. Maybe 1/2psi. I would focus more on the k14 right now.
Truthfully im not sure, i think tomorrow ill go pick up another boost gauge for the LP turbo and see what its reading. I have my external gate on the k14 in relativley the same fashion you do with yours. It is controlled off manifold pressure and has a 14 PSI spring in the gate. The LP turbos wastegate is from the intermediate pipe with its stock wastegate. Im not really seeing any reason for the k14 to not be building boost though. I do believe the K24s wastegate is possibley open/the valve isnt seating or has no spring tension on it so it isnt going to get spinning.
Im pretty possitive its getting more then enough fuel then it needs since it can put out some black smoke. My only other idea was to jam both of the wastegate closed and see if it builds any boost then.
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Im pretty possitive its getting more then enough fuel then it needs since it can put out some black smoke.
Wow, so you're making black smoke with egt's at only 600*F? Once you get the boosting figured out, you should be able to run mega fuel before it gets too hot!
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I have my wastegates plumbed different than you do. My LP is off the manifold and the HP is off the intermediate pipe. On the LP the factory is set to open at 24psi and if I had it the intermediate pipe I would over boost the first time I ran it. Right now I am only seeing 10-13psi on the LP. Total pressure is 35-38. Depends on where I put the boost controller at. My HP wastegate has a 7psi spring.
I have both wastegates from my k14 and k24 if you want to give them a try. The k24 is the exhaust housing and gate. the k14 is just the gate.
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I have my wastegates plumbed different than you do. My LP is off the manifold and the HP is off the intermediate pipe. On the LP the factory is set to open at 24psi and if I had it the intermediate pipe I would over boost the first time I ran it. Right now I am only seeing 10-13psi on the LP. Total pressure is 35-38. Depends on where I put the boost controller at. My HP wastegate has a 7psi spring.
I have both wastegates from my k14 and k24 if you want to give them a try. The k24 is the exhaust housing and gate. the k14 is just the gate.
I think im just gunna get 2 new turbos in working condition. I dont really feel like, or have time anymore, to mess around with these ones, a straight swap will be alot easier.
Once I get them working and actually building boost ill have to play around and see what works better for the wastegates.
How fast are you guys seeing your boost? (directed at Bug and Rado)
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I know this doesn't make a difference right now but I would move the LP wastegate line to the manifold. Once you get some turbos that work that is going to be a lot of boost and it may be to quick. By the time you see it you could well be in the 40-60 range. When I added 2psi on the LP turbo I got 4-5psi at the manifold.
As for my boost, it is very quick. Almost no lag at all. The k14 takes care of that for me. Comparing it to my single T3 it is light years ahead of the game. The T3 was total lag. Right now I make boost in every gear. I will have to make a video of it someday and post it up.
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His boost isn't going to hit 40 with fuel for 600deg. Certainly not without him flogging it at least
I hover around 6-10psi part throttle around 2000rpm just cruising with traffic. 7psi coasting at 3000rpm and rolling on the throttle from that, I hit 20 (where I've got my wastegates set right now) in under 2 seconds. My EGT's are much higher... I'm easily able to hit 1200, with fuel for only about 6-8psi :(. Still no intercooler right now
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His boost isn't going to hit 40 with fuel for 600deg. Certainly not without him flogging it at least
I hover around 6-10psi part throttle around 2000rpm just cruising with traffic. 7psi coasting at 3000rpm and rolling on the throttle from that, I hit 20 (where I've got my wastegates set right now) in under 2 seconds. My EGT's are much higher... I'm easily able to hit 1200, with fuel for only about 6-8psi :(. Still no intercooler right now
This is true, even before with just the K14 I would maybe hit 800-900 degrees on a long hill pull at 17 psi with the intercooler. That was with the 1/4' autometer probe that was very slow acting. Who knows if that what I was actually at..
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His boost isn't going to hit 40 with fuel for 600deg. Certainly not without him flogging it at least
I hover around 6-10psi part throttle around 2000rpm just cruising with traffic. 7psi coasting at 3000rpm and rolling on the throttle from that, I hit 20 (where I've got my wastegates set right now) in under 2 seconds. My EGT's are much higher... I'm easily able to hit 1200, with fuel for only about 6-8psi :(. Still no intercooler right now
What have you been doing in my absence! :P
I could brag about my EGT's ;)
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So, good news. Turns out it was the turbos/wastegates that were the problems. Replaced them with some new (used) turbos that were in good working order, and boom, it boosts now. The car sounds unreal, first, right off take-off you hear the K14 spool, then at about 2k the K24 spools up nice and loud.
EGTs are suuuper low, cruising at 100kmph, with about 5-8psi boost im at about 325 degrees, on a bit of a hard pull ill go up to about 6-700 degrees at about 15-17 psi.
Gave it a couple fairley hard pulls up to about 4k, it sure set me back into the seat and hit 17 psi very fast. I also notice it is alot quiter traveling at highways speeds now compaired to just having the K14.
I am definatley very happy to finally be able to drive this car!!
On the bad news side, my wipers decided to stop working..but only the front ones, the washer still works, and the rear wiper/washer still work. Im guessing it could only really be either the switch, the relay, or the motor istelf. I havent had time to test the circut yet to see if the motor is getting powered but Ill try to tomorrow.
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After all the problems I went though ordering the correct clutch disk I was wondering if you guys could help make a list of the MK3's that come with the 24mm input shafts?
Did the early 1.9 IDI's have them? from my understanding they didnt and actually had the 22mm. I ran into this problem when I was building my engine, I ordered the clutch disk for my car (93 AAZ golf) and was sent what I thought was the correct disk. It wasnt, it was for the 24mm input shaft and my tranny is a 22mm.
After realizing this I went and talked to the dealer about my car and he said that he had actually swapped out the OG diesel (ATH) tranny to one from and MK3 gasser (1.8l) believed to be a AUG. After driving it I realized this wasnt the case.
From the RPMs I see driving at 100kph (2725 ish) I beleive it is actually an AGS. AG- are the only letters that are visable on the bell housing on the tranny now. Now if it is an AGS, that means its from an MK2 1.6td vehicle and they had the 22mm input shafts.
Hear is the part I dont understand. When I sourced out a clutch disk I had the guys find the one for my car first (93 AAZ), then I asked him to check if the 1.8l clutch disk was the same, Sure enough it was, and they both were listed as 22mm splines or 13/16 of an inch. He also said that the 2.0l was the only one with a different part number, im guessing that one is for a 24mm input shaft.
I know that 93 was the first year of the new body style and the 1.9td engines, I also know that 93-94 were the same, 95 had a few changes and 96-98 had alot more changes (including the swap to TDI)
Could it be that 93 to 94 had the smaller 22mm input shafts and then 95 and so on they were upgraded to the 24mm? I really have no idea here and am mostley shooting for answers, so please correct me if im wrong!!
Im sure having this info available would be great, and very helpfull to alot of people, please add in what you know!
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I'm 90% sure that the MK3 8V transmissions have the 24mm input shaft; AMC, DFQ and CHE codes. 3.67 final drive with a stock .8 5th gear (easily swappable for a .75 to give you a bit higher ratio). The MK2 16V trans's did as well, but you don't want to go there. 3700rpm at 120km/h
I'm not sure what trans the 93's came with or what size the input of the ATH is though..
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rule of thumb.. if its 1.9, or 2.0 litres, its got a big input shaft. think of the 1.9 and 2.0 as the BIG BLOCKS, even tho they arent technically.
and anything under 1.8 or smaller, got a small input shaft.
and that goes for everything ive taken apart so far.. dont have any experience on the canadian TBI 1.8 jettas.. but there probably 22mm shafted..
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rule of thumb.. if its 1.9, or 2.0 litres, its got a big input shaft. think of the 1.9 and 2.0 as the BIG BLOCKS, even tho they arent technically.and anything under 1.8 or smaller, got a small input shaft.
and that goes for everything ive taken apart so far.. dont have any experience on the canadian TBI 1.8 jettas.. but there probably 22mm shafted..
This is what I thought, but the stock replacment clutch disk for my 93 AAZ, which should have had the ATH trans, was listed as a 210mm diameter disk for a 22mm input shaft. So like I was thinking maybe the early MK3's, 93-94, still had the smaller 22mm input shaft like the MK2's, besides the 2.0L.
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Lots of weirdo stuff on the early Canadian Mk III's, I don't think there's really any way to say for sure exactly what you're going to find. The '93-94 cars don't fit too many of the "rules" for the body type.
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Lots of weirdo stuff on the early Canadian Mk III's, I don't think there's really any way to say for sure exactly what you're going to find. The '93-94 cars don't fit too many of the "rules" for the body type.
Haha Very true!
Took the car for a 200km ish trip today, did really well. Blew off one coupler during the ride, and of course it was the one on the bottom turbo underneath everything else. After a while I was back on the road and didnt have any other problems.
Have about 350km on it so far.
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Have just under 1500kms so far from drive back and forth to work this week. Couple interesting things here.
On a super hard hill pull at 18 or so PSI I dont see EGT's any higher then 550F. This could mean 2 things, the compounds and the intercooler are making a HUUUUGE difference in EGT temp, ooor, I barley have any fuel. Im sorta leaning towards the lack of fuel.
I really dont think doing the gov. mod is what I want to do. So Im going to either get giles to build my pump or Im going to try and rotate the throttle arm? thing. My fuel screw is already in as far as it will go without the idle being to rediculously high (1050-1100)
I do think the compounds have at least a bit to do with the EGT situation, IIRC my EGTs and highway cruising with just the K14 and intercooler were about 450-500F. Now with the K24 and K14 and intercooler they are about 300F (at 100km)
All I need now is more fuel so I can add more boost.
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If you can build a compound set-up then surely you can tune your pump for more fuel! :D
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you need more fuel
saying your pump work great with one turbo (k14, iirc) a XX psi doesn't meant that with the other turbo (k24) at the same PSI.
now your moving more air (lbs/min) you need more fuel. go turn that fuel screw up a 2 or 3 turns, and make a video ;D
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So Im going to either get giles to build my pump or Im going to try and rotate the throttle arm? thing. My fuel screw is already in as far as it will go without the idle being to rediculously high (1050-1100)
My throttle arm is rotated back I think 3 notches already and will need multiple more once I get around to tuning my pump.
Before you pull the last arm off, make a good mark with a knife or something where your arm is set. I would do 1 or 2 notches at a time and start the car/get it idling properly before getting all the springs back on. Remember as well that rotating the arm back means you can back out the full throttle stop screw on the front of the pump too!
Your pump is an AAZ, right? It's a real PITA to get the springs on and off. Set aside hours to get it done. You'll use them all. Take lots of pictures before you pull it apart; it'll save you lots of time staring and scratching your head at how the arms go back on. I don't even have all the springs on my pump anymore.
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If you can build a compound set-up then surely you can tune your pump for more fuel! :D
Haha yes, just havent been to worried about it since I needed a few kms on the new engine before I was going start pushing it.
So Im going to either get giles to build my pump or Im going to try and rotate the throttle arm? thing. My fuel screw is already in as far as it will go without the idle being to rediculously high (1050-1100)
My throttle arm is rotated back I think 3 notches already and will need multiple more once I get around to tuning my pump.
Before you pull the last arm off, make a good mark with a knife or something where your arm is set. I would do 1 or 2 notches at a time and start the car/get it idling properly before getting all the springs back on. Remember as well that rotating the arm back means you can back out the full throttle stop screw on the front of the pump too!
Your pump is an AAZ, right? It's a real PITA to get the springs on and off. Set aside hours to get it done. You'll use them all. Take lots of pictures before you pull it apart; it'll save you lots of time staring and scratching your head at how the arms go back on. I don't even have all the springs on my pump anymore.
Yes it is an AAZ pump, Ill maybe try this tomorrow and see how it goes. On a side note I do have the LDA line disconnected so that might have a bit of a part in the lack of fuel?
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Yes it is an AAZ pump, Ill maybe try this tomorrow and see how it goes. On a side note I do have the LDA line disconnected so that might have a bit of a part in the lack of fuel?
Buh.. with my stock AAZ fuel pin, I figure having the LDA connected or disconnected makes about 50*F difference. It doesn't seem to add a significant amount of fuel
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Yes it is an AAZ pump, Ill maybe try this tomorrow and see how it goes. On a side note I do have the LDA line disconnected so that might have a bit of a part in the lack of fuel?
Buh.. with my stock AAZ fuel pin, I figure having the LDA connected or disconnected makes about 50*F difference. It doesn't seem to add a significant amount of fuel
AAZ LDAs really are a JOKE then..
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AAZ LDAs really are a JOKE then..
Yes, I think so. I'd like to know what's different internally with them. Once I get my custom LDA pin installed, it'll use the maximum amount that pin can possibly move, so I'll be able to see much better how much it can do. The next step after that would be to take the pump apart and see if I can change the leverage of the boost pin against the actual fuel delivery arm or whatever it's called inside there
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There's a reason the AAZ LDA pin is called a "joke" pin... the "joke" is that there's not really any taper on it whatsoever!! It's practically pointless really. The 1.6 LDA pin / spring is a fantastic upgrade for an AAZ pump.
Just do the gov mod to start, it's really not hard nor is it going to do anything to hurt your engine. Giles is definitely the best bet if you can go that route, but for less than an hour's work you can find out a whole lot about what your engine really can do. Really though unless you go for someone like Giles you'll never have a pump that can actually use your compound setup.
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There's a reason the AAZ LDA pin is called a "joke" pin... the "joke" is that there's not really any taper on it whatsoever!! It's practically pointless really. The 1.6 LDA pin / spring is a fantastic upgrade for an AAZ pump.
Just do the gov mod to start, it's really not hard nor is it going to do anything to hurt your engine. Giles is definitely the best bet if you can go that route, but for less than an hour's work you can find out a whole lot about what your engine really can do. Really though unless you go for someone like Giles you'll never have a pump that can actually use your compound setup.
That is my exact point
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A small update with a small problem after being away for a while.
During my trip home last night from work crusing at about 75, I decided to turn my highbeams on, then boom, Tach and Speedo both go to zero. I pull over to the side of the road turn the car off and turned it back on and noticed the idiot light in the cluster isnt blinking with the key in the on position.
Checked the fueses, all good, made sure the wire from the starter the alternator and the W term and good. I know the circut that runs the tach and oil light are tied together so is there a relay to check? But that doesnt explain why the speedo doesnt work...
Any ideas??
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Ignition switch, maybe. Lots of weird symptoms when they go bad. Try jiggling the key.
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Im thinking its just the cluster decided to die, everything works except the tach and speedo. All the back lights work.
The clock works but I cant change the time, also just found out the trip meter doesnt work..