VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: taterade on October 13, 2010, 09:08:17 pm
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I started a post months ago about this build and I am getting very close to putting it all together. It's going into an 82' rabbit pickup that is pretty solid and clean, although i've molestered it a bit now. The plan is to do engine and tranny swap now then do body and paint after everything is in proper working order. It is a full rebuild on both the engine and the transmission with some mods and custom exhaust. I have a bunch of pics to post right now and I will keep posting as I go.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0647.jpg)
this is a terrible pic to show my rabbit pickup but it's the best i have at the moment
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0254.jpg)
the engine to start with. initially i thought it was a td motor only to find out it was an NA block with a turbo head.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/cd60bdc8.jpg)
prothe's 1.6td piston set
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/5e763b74.jpg)
my garrett gt1548 for good measure
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0601.jpg)
bought a new head for it because the previous owner had the cracks between the valves repaired but not very well done
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0693.jpg)
had the pressure valve welded shut along with the optional backside inlet
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0696.jpg)
re-bushed rods with raceware bolts
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0698.jpg)
freshly polished and balanced crank
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0617.jpg)
since i am going to push this engine a bit i had the oil galley taped for squirters
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0694.jpg)
i am going to convert the filter system to the newer mk4 style setup
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0702.jpg)
aba trans can't remember the code..
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0703.jpg)
all torn down
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0715.jpg)
and cleaned up
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0712.jpg)
welded up the flange to a 2.5" adapter
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0720.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0721.jpg)
then welded up one side for the v-band clamp setup
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0719.jpg)
arp studs came the other day! yayy!!!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0668.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0667.jpg)
welded up the exhaust with my buddy. 2.5" mandrel bent
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0722.jpg)
primed/sealed the block after i wire brushed it and cleaned it up all nice
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0723.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0726.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0729.jpg)
all painted green!!!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0727.jpg)
shot of the squirters. that's it for now and i'll keep it going as the pump gets rebuilt and so one. i am way stoked to get this in and running.
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Looks like you're doing everything right at least, I haven't heard anything bad about prothe pistons yet. They're the only thing he seems proud of.
Keep it up :).
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Oh, it also looks like seal grooves at each end of the crank. You might consider Redi-sleeves. I'll look the part #s up if you need them.
You are observent.
I think I've heard of oilers that work for this application that don't have a separate bolt hole but rather use a hollow bolt with a squirter sticking of the head........I'll go do a search for it........
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Here you go: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=115422
Link found here: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=15429.0
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The picture of the machined holes for the oil jets doesn't seem to show the holes for the bolts that hold them in place. Was the picture taken prior to machining those holes or are they held in place some other way?
actually i am using a later oil squirter from a 1.8t where it is a basic banjo fitting, so no screw/bolt needed. you are right about the seal grooves though and i think it may be ok. i am going to run it and see how it goes. if i have issues then ill address them then i guess. i would like to see the info on the sleeves however.
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got most of the bottom end done. should have it finished up tomorrow and then i am ordering an mls gasket this next week. hopefully i can have it together in a few weeks!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0730.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0731.jpg)
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Just an FYI you might want to consider. The Arco pistons many have said to be good here. I am using them as I got them before I knew about that guy ::) But I am not using the rings that came with them. Several on here have reported oil usage and one guy took his block apart under 10,000 miles and one of the rings were cracked.
SO, you might want to get a different set of rings before putting that MLS HG on...That is what I did. I had the crank in and out 4 times before getting everything I wanted done. If I would have only known I wanted it all at the same time I would have only done it once.
Goetze rings are good I hear.
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The picture of the machined holes for the oil jets doesn't seem to show the holes for the bolts that hold them in place. Was the picture taken prior to machining those holes or are they held in place some other way?
actually i am using a later oil squirter from a 1.8t where it is a basic banjo fitting, so no screw/bolt needed. you are right about the seal grooves though and i think it may be ok. i am going to run it and see how it goes. if i have issues then ill address them then i guess. i would like to see the info on the sleeves however.
I want to think there was a difference in opening pressures on these squirters (like, between gasser and diesel)
Also (hard to tell from the pic), did you have to machine the block for the squirters?
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the squirters have a very low breaking pressure. mostly used for idle pressure to rise and then they break after a little raise in the rpm's. it shouldn't be a problem using the 1.8t squirter.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0743.jpg)
cleaned manual rack!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0742.jpg)
put a few things on the block tonight and remembered i never posted anything about the oil cooler i am putting in. i will post more pics of the oil cooler setup tomorrow. i am hoping to have everything i need by the 12th of next month. if all goes to plan it should work out. see ya later
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I'm running Goetze at high boost & fuel. Still going great. I ran the car for a while with the breather just dumping to atmosphere and it was clear as glass coming out. no oil moisture and that's around 5,000km.
Remarkable work so far. Very impressed :)
Also, i added an oil cooler exactly as you are but be careful of where your lines join those nipples on the plate. I used compression fittings on steel braided line on the cooler and just managed to squeeze the line hard enough with small t-clamps on the plate side. (before i damaged the set up... stupid me)
Keep a film of oil on all the machined surfaces until its time to button it together.
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I'm running Goetze at high boost & fuel. Still going great. I ran the car for a while with the breather just dumping to atmosphere and it was clear as glass coming out. no oil moisture and that's around 5,000km.
Remarkable work so far. Very impressed :)
Also, i added an oil cooler exactly as you are but be careful of where your lines join those nipples on the plate. I used compression fittings on steel braided line on the cooler and just managed to squeeze the line hard enough with small t-clamps on the plate side. (before i damaged the set up... stupid me)
Keep a film of oil on all the machined surfaces until its time to button it together.
thanks for all your input and your kind words of the work. i have kept a light layer of oil on it ever since i got it back from the machine shop. i'm really pushing hard to get it all together within the next couple of weeks. :)
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been a little bit. obviously i didn't hit my goal of getting it done last month and it looks like it'll still be a few more months. here is what i did today.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0648-1.jpg)
got the bottom end all torqued and the head studs installed
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0655.jpg)
got the head torqued down and turbo on with a few other things
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff52/mkymk2/IMG_0654.jpg)
this is just a coolant supply freeze plug from a 2.7t and i believe later vr6's. made it easy to supply coolant for the turbo coolant jacket
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isnt 11mm head for a gt15?
what pressure are you going to hit on that turbo?
is a bit on the small side...
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11mm pump head is gonna be too big on your setup.. its gonna supply TONS of fuel, when you will only need a little bit.. that utrbo isnt gonna be big enough to take advantage of an 11mm pump.
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I think the turbo choice is fine, one can always turn the pump down to tune it properly.
Nice looking build.
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i think turbo-wise, hes golden, but i definitely wouldnt have paired an 11mm pump with a K03 sized turbo..
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i do realize that the 11mm rotor is a but big, but my thoughts are exactly what dan said. i plan on just down tuning it to run well with the gt1548. if it suks then ill do something else. i'm not looking to make big numbers by any means. i just want to be reliable with enough power to have some fun with. the gt1548 seemed like a good choice for quick spool and good power throughout.
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Can't you use the 11mm head with 10mm springs and related parts, instead of turning down the pump itself?
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bigger the pump head more high rpm risks right?
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ive been told the 11mm heads are hard to tune. you either have it just below where you want it, or you screw it in a lil farther, and it makes a smoke screen behind you.. people who have owned 11mm pumps have told me to just avoid them all together, unless going for a balls-out build.
i would AVOID an 11mm head. a 9mm head is gonna do all you want to do with it, without having a 4000 rpm rev limit, dependant on the pump head its self. you can turn ~5600 on a stock pump head. you can do ~4000 with a 11mm pump tho. and that last 1600 rpm is where these engine really shine..
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when I built my motor with the cummins pump I did some research into the RPM limit of the 12mm pump head, and found that the 4000 limit is for six cylinder motors.
four cylinder motors pump fewer times per revolution, so the safe rpm limit is higher(more like 6000)
I ran the 12mm pump as high as 5000 rpm with no issues.
as for tuning, with the larger pump head the injection event is shorter, making injecting large amounts of fuel require less advance.
other than that, they tune the same, just lots more clatter.
-Owen
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a side question...
i have a tdi 10mm pump head,can i put it on a 1.6 gtd pump without changing other parts(pump cam for a 1.9 like usual)