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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: VW_Commuter on August 02, 2010, 06:34:53 pm
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I have an AAZ Serpentine belt conversion done on my '91 Jetta by the PO with an A/C and powersteering delete done at the same time. I would like to have the A/C restored but don't want the powersteering and I know we had a discussion about that a few weeks ago but for the life of me can't find it in a search. I know that one of our European members listed the part number for an A/C compressor that rotated backwards and the serpentine belt that allowed the use of a single serpentine belt. I've found a belt routing diagram in ETKA -
(http://home.wavecable.com/~gregandjenn/vbelts_2.jpg)
And was wondering if anyone can remember the post and possibly post the link to it.
Thanks
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http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=9599.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=9599.0)
Maybe that one?
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That's the one but the waterpump is what turned CCW :(
I'd like to find out the part number is for the A/C compressor in the diagram and also the serpentine belts part number and dimensions. This would be the ideal setup for those who want A/C but don't want power steering. I'll have to keep researching to see if I can identify their part numbers.
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The a/c unit should be a sanden 508, there are some on ebay for 90's mkiii aaz golf's 193.00 each. I am saving up and doing the same deal you are once I get it all together. Once you have the correct brakets the water pump I think still needs driven by the v belt with an adjustable pulley *going from what others have told me on some of this* . The belt should be a 6pk 1145. Here is a link on the vortex that has info for gassers mainly, but you can take most for diesels and apply.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4773933-MK1-ABA-swap-A1-ABA-swap-Rabbit-ABA-swap-Rabbit-2.0-swap-2.0-into-A1-2.0-into-MK1-info-thread&highlight=serpentine+crank+pulley (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4773933-MK1-ABA-swap-A1-ABA-swap-Rabbit-ABA-swap-Rabbit-2.0-swap-2.0-into-A1-2.0-into-MK1-info-thread&highlight=serpentine+crank+pulley)
on autohaus there is a hancock compressor part # 1H0820803D for 341.95
This is the info on the ebay one
A/C Compressor & Clutch Part Brand: TechChoice Parts
Year Model: 1995 Interchange Part Number: 1H0 820 803 D, 1100, 1105, 4252
Vehicle Make: Volkswagen Other Part Number: 57591
Vehicle Model: Golf Part Type: Air Conditioning & Heat
Manufacturer Part Number: 30607N
Then there is a sanden 508 for a jeep that is identical to the VW one except it has lines coming from the top of the unit instead of the back and it is around 100.00
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If you look at the cropped pic that I posted and follow the belt as if the A/C compressor isn't there then you can see the setup that I currently have. I've got an AAZ bracket, AAZ alternator, what appears to be a VR6 water pump pulley, and no A/C compressor or power steering pump. Basically it's the pic I posted w/out 'F' and you can see they show the belt path both ways. The A/C compressor for an AAA VR6 motor spins CCW and if the center-to-center bolt holes match the ones on the bracket then all I will need is the compressor and then to find a double ribbed serpentine belt in the proper length and you can have A/C with a single serpentine belt. If I can find this info then it would be an easy conversion and one sweet setup.
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Andrew, I certainly will post all the info if I can make it work.
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That would help me a ton too. I have been waiting to do a/c for a while and now am glad. Let me know if you find something and need help searching. I now understand what you were looking for. Basically, you need to find a VR6 compressor and see if it works. I will try to find one and let you know as well :D
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Exactly. If the VR6 A/C compressor will fit the AAZ mount then all we have to do is find the right length double ribbed serpentine belt and we should be in business. Of course you also need the clutched pulley on your alternator and should do the TDI crankshaft sprocket mod to ensure a long and happy life for your engine ;D
If this works then we can have A/C, no power steering, and never deal with a v-belt ever again.
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would it have to be a double rib?
BTW...I have prepared for this. Crank sproket mod, clutched alt pulley installed, and no a/c lines or cash LOL.
Even if it doesn't bolt right on it should be easier to make a new adapter bracket than to try and source a compressor that would work. I have been looking for cheap alternatives for the aaz one and like I said earlier I found a jeep one. Takes forever and I don't know 100% that it will work.
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(http://i.ebayimg.com/08/!BYqwEtw!mk~$(KGrHgoOKkMEjlLmV,uSBKiw+gEzcw~~_12.JPG)
I am already looking. This one is only 99.99 buy it now :D from the looks of it, it has mounting tabs like the others, but not as many.
*old* but shows that the tabs should work if the spacing is similar as it does have both. ;D
(http://www.goldaclive.com/ebay/1957-133-042-2A.jpg)
this is what it says about alternate part#
Competitive Part Reference
Manufacturer Part Number
ACDelco 15-20994, 15-21500
Denso 471-7001
Four Seasons 57592
Frigette 204-827, 204-1553
NAPA 254074
Omega 20-15402
Ready-Aire 2257, 2257N
Sanden 1102
Visteon 000485, 010463
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I talked to my a/c guy today and he said that the pump really doesn't care about which way it is spinning. All we really need to watch is that the lines leaving it go UP or are 3/4 the way up the unit. That way all of the oil won't leave the compressor. He also said that sandens were junk compared to other units, but they can be clocked so we could mount them in other locations. I will experiment eventually if no on else does :D
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I am looking into a ribbed water belt pulley and a double groove belt. I was just pleased to find out that pretty much as long as your lines are ran upwards you can make a compressor work in either direction.
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http://www.tld-corvette.com/prodinfo.asp?number=578916 (http://www.tld-corvette.com/prodinfo.asp?number=578916)
They make double ribbed belts...now to see how long I will need and how long this one is. This is a Corvette belt, but I have found that some Volvo's had them and possibly a Lexus too.
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i just picked up all of the underhood A/C parts less the compressor for $75 and a VR6 A/C compressor for $40. As soon as I have my IP back together and the engine running I'm going to start putting the A/C back in it.
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I am running mine with no a/c and one vbelt until I get the rest of the lines, compressor, and condenser. I have most of it but the condition is shakey on most of it. Looking forward to you getting yours done and posting pics. I plan for 2011 for mine.
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I have a similar setup on my gas 16v and I'd love to have the belt run as per the diagram with a double sided belt. If you find one please post it. I will be seing if my parts guy can get one too. I didn't know the compressor could turn either way. Thanks!
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As far as my A/C guy knows all that is inside a sanden is a pison and valve. He told me it was exactly like the old detroits that could run backwards. He also said that he found most of this because when he fills a new one and oil comes out you cannot spin it the other way and turn the output into suction. It will just continue to puke out the output no matter which way the pulley spins. I am not an A/C tech so I know this only as second hand, but the guy I deal with is pretty good with this stuff so I am going to believe him until I ruin a compressor :D
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From my understanding of the compressor design there are spring loaded ball valves in the suction and discharge of each piston (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) which results in the ability to rotate the compressor either direction and still have it operate correctly.
I also found an interesting post, http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=367871&start=0 (http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=367871&start=0),over on The Samba which discusses retrofitting a system from R-12 to R-134A. The post talks about higher discharge pressure, more wear on internal compressor components, and the requirement to switch to PAG oil from mineral oil for compressor lubrication.
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Yes, changing over isn't that difficult - you need a kit (usually comes with o-ring, oil and some fittings). This needs to be added to the R-12 fittings so you can fill it properly. Change the compressor oil, change the air dryer (in a MK2 it small round thing connected to the condenser behind bumper) and you're set.
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While we are at it, why not all the links we have to good A/C info just in case :D
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20544.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20544.0)
and
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=10731.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=10731.0)
They talk of alternatives to R134a and R12 that can be had without any issues. I think most of the info here is how to charge it with no special tools or conversion kits :D
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I think I'm just going to use R-12 for my Jetta. I just got my EPA Section 609 cert (for motor vehicle a/c systems) so I can now legally buy R-12 or R-134a for that matter. I've got a line on a 30 Gal Cyl here in the Puget Sound area that I might be able to get. If I can get it then I'll have enough R-12 for about 10 systems ;D
All I'll need to do is have an A/C shop do a flush, draw a vacuum on the system and verify no leaks, add the compressor oil, then have them draw a vacuum on the system again. I'm going to try and find a place where I can rent a vacuum pump so that I can draw the vacuum the second time myself.
If anyone is interested in getting there EPA cert (for those of you in the US) I got mine from http://www.epatest.com (http://www.epatest.com). The test for the cert is 'open book' so I downloaded there study guide/practice test/ exam program and had it done in a matter of a couple of hours.