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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: goon on June 30, 2010, 07:05:44 am
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it sat for two years... and im now trying to get it going i took a 13 mm socket and pressurized the oil for awhile and then tried turning the crank by the bolt... no success.. its move half of the rotation and then it would stop... i thought it was hitting valves so i unbolted the camshaft so all the valves would come up... then i cranked hard on a breaker bar to move the crank in a clockwise manner and it just stopped right were it was before but now i put a little muscle into it it wont move either direction... it just loosens or tightens the bolt..
do you think it could just be rust on the cylinder walls? im pulling the head off today to see the mess inside and if it is what do i do?
one more question its an 81 deluxe it came out of and its a hydro head how do i know if its 12mm bolts or 11mm
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Hydro is only 12mm. It's not the original engine.
I think you will find a gross amount of rust in there.
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Sounds like by trying to turn it over you have jammed it up with the rust Tyler was refering to.
When an engine sits like that, normally, the best thing you could possibly do would be to seperate the block from the tranny, drop the oil pan, rod bolts, main bolts, pull the head off, drop the crank out, with the head off you can now push the pistons out the bottom of the block (dont forget oil squirters and oil pump).
Then you can clean the rust out of the cylinders with a stone or ball hone.
What forcing the pistons to move up has likely done is wedged rust with the rings and its scoring the cylinder walls likely to a point where you're unable to move them anymore.
I fear you're going to see some hefty marring on the cylinder walls (as i did with my old engine) now when you take the head off and move the pistons back down.
Remember, you can also always move the pistons by putting the car in gear and forcing the wheels to turn. In 5th gear, you should be able to apply a lot of torque to the crank from having 1 wheel off the ground - or just rolling the vehicle forwards or backwards.
Unfortunately, you may have been too hopeful with this engine. Had it been an air tight seal, the bores likely would have been fine.
That's something to remember - when parking a car on long term, loosen the cam off so the valves seal the cylinders from the moisture.
Call me a pesimist, but you may need to do a mini rebuild on her to have it run right. No boring, just a hefty hone and re-ring and it'll probably run.
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pistons always come out the top of an engine. ive never been able to install one from the bottom atleast. the distance between the main caps isnt even close to big enough.
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I think on gas 8v vw engines you can pull the pistons out the bottom but none of the diesel engines I have worked on had enough room between the mains to drop a piston out the bottom.
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Well the motor is JUNK pulled the head off and it's a mess in there! Cylinder walls look like they've never even ran the pistons were fully engulfed in rust the head too... I'm going to pull this one and finish building my 12mm mech build it's in alot better condition
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I think on gas 8v vw engines you can pull the pistons out the bottom but none of the diesel engines I have worked on had enough room between the mains to drop a piston out the bottom.
your kidding me!?!?!? guess ive never tried it.. never thought of it i guess.
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Like I said "I think" ;) I've never torn down a gas engine but I seem to recall reading on the tex that you can.
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Like I said "I think" ;) I've never torn down a gas engine but I seem to recall reading on the tex that you can.
I'm aaaalmost sure you can't, I did rod bearings in a 86 gasser golf a few years back and I don't think there was enough room.
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Well the motor is JUNK pulled the head off and it's a mess in there! Cylinder walls look like they've never even ran the pistons were fully engulfed in rust the head too... I'm going to pull this one and finish building my 12mm mech build it's in alot better condition
Pics?? :)