VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: gnavs on June 18, 2010, 05:04:00 pm
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I'm really not sure why I didn't post my progress on here, I'd rather get some technical advice than a bunch of "do work son", so here is what I've been up to the last 6months or so
*November 2009*
So after dealing with above average oil consumption, coolant leaking into unknown and potentially damaging areas I've decided to tear into the diesel and start replacing some stuff. I'll be doing the headgasket, timing belt and, if the funds allow it, slap a new T3 on it as well. This is my first time getting this involved with anything really so progress will likely be slow but I'm looking forward to learning some things.
Here's how it looked in 08
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Picture479.jpg)
And here's what it looks like as of an hour ago.....
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_072.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_073.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_075.jpg)
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Getting the 12 year old crud off of everything was maddening
*January 2010*
Here is my current workstation
(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo317/gnavs2/AAZ%20rebuild/IMAGE_104.jpg)
dirty engine pics :shock:
(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo317/gnavs2/AAZ%20rebuild/IMAGE_106.jpg)
(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo317/gnavs2/AAZ%20rebuild/IMAGE_105.jpg)
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A few parts were ordered....
*January 23, 2010*
Passat style PD150 intake manifold
(http://i266.photobucket.com/albums/ii274/dieselrules/230120101094.jpg)
Rover boost pin
(http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/76088267dd6d750bd9247af8dc4f5eed.jpg)
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Yup, cleaning was definitely time consuming...
*February 11, 2010*
A few more updates, I got the head off and discovered the usual cracks between the valves. Apparently it's pretty common so I'm not too worried.
On to the current pictures. She's a dirty old girl...
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_112.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_113.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_115.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_116.jpg)
definitely looks like I've got some oil blowing by pistons 2 and 3 so a re-ring is in order as well.
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*February 16, 2010*
Out with the old, in with the new
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_125.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_126.jpg)
:-*
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*February 17, 2010*
Finally got around to getting the valves removed. I ended up getting the one from Princess Auto and it worked fine. Next up is getting the head and block hot tanked but I don't know who does this.
The crank nose will end up getting machined for the TDI pulley.
On to the pics
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_130.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_129.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_128.jpg)
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*February 27, 2010*
Head and block back from the hot tank. The block didn't quite come as clean as I wanted so I'll have to get at it with a wire wheel before paint. The cylinder head has the expected cracks between the valves but I think they'll be alright.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_131.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_134.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_133.jpg)
Meanwhile the pistons are taking a varsol bath overnight.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_132.jpg)
and here's the color I'm going for...
(http://www.diesel-engine.cn/CUMMINS/Engine/CUMMINS-B-Series-Engine.jpg)
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*March 5, 2010*
since the hot tanking didn't get the block as clean as I wanted it, I decided to take my dremel and a few sanding drums to it, I think it came out quite nicely. Decided to go with a cast iron color for paint, pics of the fresh painted block should be up soon :)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_135.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_136.jpg)
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*March 22, 2010*
My fresh Autometer EGT and boost gauges came in last week. Also lost my job last week. Makes for more time but less $$.
I hate the look of A Pillar pods and also the "look at me!" aspect to them so I decided to put them where they'd make the most sense, right in front of my face.
I used 2" ABS plastic pipe which holds standard gauges ever so gently. Still needs some sanding and painting but the idea gets across. It clears the hazard light switch perfectly and doesn't block the odometer or anything.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_139.jpg)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j227/her_reger_fck/me/Diesel%20Rebuild/IMAGE_1382.jpg)
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And here we are, completely caught up to todays progress :)
*June 18, 2010*
Progress once more.
Installed the Rover pin in my injection pump, went in super easy (that's what she said), painted and cleaned up some stuff, and finally got my scratched crank machined.
It might have been unnecessary but the peace of mind should be worth the coin.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_148.jpg)
Set of undersized main and rod bearings alongside
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_150.jpg)
Freshly painted and gasket matched PD150 intake
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_154.jpg)
Tapped my exhaust mani for the EGT probe, yes I know it's crooked
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_153.jpg)
went with a cast iron color for the block and head
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_151.jpg)
aaaand cleaned up the valves
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_146.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_147.jpg)
up next, hone the cylinder walls and start putting the bottom end back together.
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Congrats senior!! Looookin goood!
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hey dude, thats looking great
let me know if you ever need a hand, would love to see some of your work in person!
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Got blue or red aaz engine hoses for yah when ready...
I sent your body coolant hoses to the tooler
Wear gloves...
Gb
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Rick! long time no see, I'll definitely let you know when its a progress day :)
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Yesterday my G60 valve cover arrived in the mail and now I've set about making damn sure it's possible to run it on an AAZ head before I start drilling and tapping. Can I get confirmation from you veterans?
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Wow really nice work on the clean up!
I don't really want to post my progress now :P
Do you have any shots of how the brackets go on the block?
im using 1.6 brackets because i am keeping all my stuff from my 1.6 set up (i have an aaz head and block)
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Not trying to slow you down but the first pic of your cylinder head it appears like there are cracks at the pre-cups and that could create some unhappiness if the cracks are in fact there. If the cup comes loose it will cut the head gasket and work it way into the cylinder then it makes one hell of a mess. New cylinder head castings are very reasonable, also solves your cracks between the valves situation
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Yesterday my G60 valve cover arrived in the mail and now I've set about making damn sure it's possible to run it on an AAZ head before I start drilling and tapping. Can I get confirmation from you veterans?
Hey buddy i still got that dd keychain for ya. Some aaz heads come with the holes machined for the traditional style valve cover so i would imagine you could get away with tapping them and putting studs in, would also need different cam caps since on the aaz it has the studs built in. At the same time some aaz's only came with the outer holes machined for the valve cover gasket to clip onto.
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We honed the block today. This is going to be minty when it's done!!
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Not trying to slow you down but the first pic of your cylinder head it appears like there are cracks at the pre-cups and that could create some unhappiness if the cracks are in fact there. If the cup comes loose it will cut the head gasket and work it way into the cylinder then it makes one hell of a mess. New cylinder head castings are very reasonable, also solves your cracks between the valves situation
True, I was planning on just running it while looking for a replacement in the meantime. Where is a good place to get new heads? I remember reading about some Brazilian made ones but can't find them now.
I tried to press out he old valve stems and got a bit put off by how much force I was using, broke a couple brass punches trying to get one out. Quote from a machinist was $150-200 to install new guides and re-align the valve seats so if I can get a bare head with 7mm guides for anything near that price I'll probably just do that.
Hey buddy i still got that dd keychain for ya. Some aaz heads come with the holes machined for the traditional style valve cover so i would imagine you could get away with tapping them and putting studs in, would also need different cam caps since on the aaz it has the studs built in. At the same time some aaz's only came with the outer holes machined for the valve cover gasket to clip onto.
Sweet, I looked into this a bit this weekend and it looks like it's completely possible with some patient drilling/tapping. The studs in the cam caps come out so that obstacle is no more. I'm sure the 1.6 valve cover gasket would fit as well. The G60 valve cover is a bit of a side project for now, I just want to get the bottom end back together and figure out this cylinder head stuff first.
We honed the block today. This is going to be minty when it's done!!
Thanks again for the help Kane. I'm still crossing my fingers all goes well during reassembly. Funds are definitely getting tight, especially with Stampede coming up ;)
BTW everyone, Kane's car is awesome...
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Here's an old pic of Kane honing my block :)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_166.jpg)
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Aaaand on to the real progress. I set about getting my old valve guides out of the head and decided to try a method I came across online. Worked like a charm.
1. Drilled out the center of the guide, I used a 5/16" bit. Be damn sure you're drilling straight down, a drill press would be best here but I just went for it. I'm crazy like that...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_169.jpg)
The overall diameter of the 7mm guides is in the neighborhood of 12mm, the new hole left a the guide a lot weaker and easier to remove.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_170.jpg)
2. Tapped the newly drilled hole, I used a 16NC just because of the bolt I was using.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_171.jpg)
3. Threaded my bolt into the newly tapped hole and tightened it down.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_172.jpg)
4. Flipped the head over and used another bolt to hammer down on the threaded one. I should have used a punch but I couldn't find mine for some reason, damn garage elves.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_173.jpg)
5. And presto, guide is out. Obviously unusable but that's exactly the reason why they needed to come out in the first place.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_174.jpg)
So now I'll be addressing these cracks between the valves and possibly do some mild porting. I've lined up an aluminum welder who will work for beer so hopefully I'm able to clean these cracks up a bit. What I was thinking was using some old valves to just have in place when the welding happens so that my valve seats don't get messed up. If anyone's got suggestions on this let me know.
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gnavs!
there you are!
it's "fckreher99" from vortex.
good to see you doing well, keep up the good work!
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Porting is a must. Get rid of the lip you feel around the ports on the valve side.
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gnavs!
there you are!
it's "fckreher99" from vortex.
good to see you doing well, keep up the good work!
Damn it's been a while!
PM'd
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Porting is a must. Get rid of the lip you feel around the ports on the valve side.
Yup it's happening. Read thru that old Rabbit head porting document and it convinced me :)
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Huge thanks to theman53 for sending me some main bolts. Finally got my crank back in.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_177.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_176.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_178.jpg)
and here's where she sleeps....
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_179.jpg)
Hope to be doing some head porting this weekend but I may have my hands full fixing a rad leak on my super wicked awesome neon beater 8)
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Huge thanks to theman53 for sending me some main bolts. Finally got my crank back in.
(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo317/gnavs2/AAZ%20rebuild/IMAGE_177.jpg)
(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo317/gnavs2/AAZ%20rebuild/IMAGE_176.jpg)
and here's where she sleeps....
(http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo317/gnavs2/AAZ%20rebuild/IMAGE_179.jpg)
Hope to be doing some head porting this weekend but I may have my hands full fixing a rad leak on my super wicked awesome neon beater 8)
Man my handwritting is better than I remembered :D I think the 12.9 unbrako stuff is just as good as the ARP stuff for alot less $$$. It is what went into mine too. Good luck getting her going.
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Thanks Lucas!
Anyways, I got the intermediate bearings in today using this technique
I've been jealous of Andrew's intermediate shaft bearing removal/installation tools since I saw his pictures of them; I had an engine completely dissassembled with the bearings removed, but no good way to re-install the new ones. I don't have a machinist friend, so I took my micrometer and started hunting for something that I could modify using my limited tools and skills. Here's what I found: a 1 inch black pipe cap works great after just a bit of careful grinding. It has a body diameter that is almost exactly the inside diameter of the larger bearing; the cap even has a flange at the end that's a slightly larger diameter. First thread a short piece of 1" pipe in the end; it works well as a handle while grinding/sanding the cap. (I used a high speed right angle grinder with a new grinding disc so I could get sharp, square edges at the inside corner where the diameter steps up.) Then grind the casting marks off of the body of the cap so the bearing slides over it easily, and carefully grind down the diameter of the flange so it is smaller than the inside diameter of the machined bearing surface in the block, then drill a hole in the end of it for the threaded rod. It takes a bit more grinding to make the one for the smaller bearing, but it's the same process, and for $6 and about an hour or less you'll have the tools you need to remove and install both the intermediate shaft bearings.
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/shgriffin/VWDieselIMbearingtool003Small.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff16/shgriffin/IMbearingremovaltool001.jpg)
Worked like a charm! Should have the entire rotating assembly installed once my piston circlips get here.
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1.9 aaz complete
Ebaygermany...
I did find a new local complete for 275.00 in the box with a valve cover and gasket, I sent to extrude a hone for port and polish, 575.00 later it's done
I have another used head let me know...
GB
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Thanks GB, I've been keeping an eye out for bare heads lately but still think I'm going to stick with the one I've got providing I don't render it unusable for some reason.
I got the entire rotating assembly in last night, so nice to see things coming back together. Still need to clean up some parts, I've been putting it off because, frankly, it sucks cleaning 13 years worth of diesel crud off of everything.
No pics right now, so you'll just have to trust me ;)
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SET OF Three 1.9 AAZ COOLANT HOSES
95.00
5 ply silicone, one piece design
Color's:Black, blue , red, yellow
Dont let me be the only one with them.....
GB
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Sorry GB, I'd love them but funds are tight right now. I ended up getting some stock replacement hoses but I still want a set of those silicon hoses eventually, they look amazing.
And the reason I can't stop smiling today is apparent in these pictures. Long story short, a friend of a friend is an amazing aluminum welder and for a case of beer he was able to help me out.
Before:
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_134.jpg)
After:
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_184.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_183.jpg)
Time to port the hell out of this sucker and check that everything is straight.
Now, since I've got my valve guides out can I grind down some of the hump that the guide goes through? I didn't really want to get too crazy in that area but I remember seeing someone (aki?) that had ground the hump and the guide down as well.
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Nice work :) :) :)
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Good to have the forums back up and running again. Here's some pics of recent progress.
September 14
Ported the head this past weekend, opened it up quite a bit actually. I essentially gasket matched the head but there was a lot of material that needed to be removed for that to happen. No pics at the moment but it was pretty straight forward.
Last night I got to reassembling the accessories and brackets.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_188.jpg)
Aaaaand ran into a snag, the crank pulley I bought ended up breaking while trying to turn the crank. I'm just glad this happened now and not while it was running. 3 guesses as to who this came from ;)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_189.jpg)
Major PITA but it doesn't really set me back too much since I still need to measure piston protrusion and order the right headgasket.
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September 15
$1.25 for this communist built tool, funny thing is it works better as a valve lapping tool than it does as an arrow. Doesn't fly for sh!t.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_190.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_191.jpg)
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September 21
Painted some brackets and attached a few more things. I can't for the life of me remember how the power steering pump attaches though :oops:
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_193.jpg)
Torqued down the head and slapped on my G60 valve cover, intake and exhaust manifolds just to see how it all looks.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_194.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_195.jpg)
Should be ready to time the thing soon.
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now serious question, does anyone have a picture of their power steering pump and how it attaches? I looked through the Bentley and I'm pretty sure I'm not missing a bracket but I can't for the life of me remember how it all attaches. I know it sits under the alternator but that's where I blank.
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No idea on the Power Steering. I would like to see the A/C picture w/o power steering. It isn't in the serp thread that I remember.
Great looking work you have going there. Especially like your valve cover.
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Thanks Lucas, I've actually spent most of the day reading "power steering delete" threads and am seriously considering it (but not just because I can't figure out how to mount it!). I'm sure I can handle un-assisted steering myself. If I can do it on a tractor I can do it with this POS :P
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Yeah I don't know what year the car is. It looks mkiii but the mkii and mki that I have owned are easy to steer. Even my wife can park it with relative ease. Once it is rolling there is just little finger pressure to move the wheel. Good Luck.
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It's a MK3, so it'll be a bit heavier but I'm 99% sure I can handle it :)
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it mounts under the spot for the A/c compressor. I think the bracketry is the same-ish for the TDI, I'll snap a picture for you.
Mounts with three bolts i believe too.
Driving a power rack without power will be tougher then the same car with a manual rack. The power rack has different ratios because it is ment to be power assisted.. :P gf's mk2 had a power steering failure (punctured line) and it was unreasonable for daily driving.. not overly too bad for her e and there whist blown.. but i wouldnt want to live with it :P
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Started to pimp my glowplugs, Vince's DIY is money!
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_200.jpg)
And an updated pic from last night
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_199.jpg)
I'll need to figure out a tensioner setup for these belts now. Without AC or power steering I might have to get creative. I'm thinking I'd need something for both the water pump belt and the alternator belt. I might be keeping an eye out for a non-ac alternator bracket but suggestions are certainly welcome at this point.
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I had a bunch of pictures from the last few weeks but they've mysteriously gone missing so here are a couple to bring everyone up to speed again.
Got the engine dropped in late last night so there is definitely light at the end of the tunnel. Will start hooking lines back up today.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_211.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_212.jpg)
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I have the silicone gasket for the PD130 race pipe adapter , made the tool and punched out a 100 of those, I didnt like the paper that street toys sent out..
I will be happy to mail you a freebie...
The upper radiator hose 191121101 Q will be done next week, silicone 27.50
I just use a lower 16 v scirocco radiator hose for perfect fitment, it has a angle drop off the lower radiator
It was made last week for the scirocco guy's ( silicone )
GB
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That would be awesome if you sent me a freebie ;D
Might pick up that upper rad hose as well. You have PM
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SHIPPED...
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Latest and greatest. Still waiting on a few things but it's still coming together.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_216.jpg)
You can also see GB's upper rad hose in there too.
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Had a pretty ***ty weekend. Car was towed on Friday for expired plates (my own fault) so I spent Sunday getting the POS out of the impound. Getting a non-running car out of impound sucks to say the least, but at least it's back in my possession. Rented a UHaul dolly and went to town...
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_222.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_223.jpg)
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also picked up a 3" exhaust system for cheap yesterday, no pics but it's a huge piece of pipe (that's what she said)
Should be getting back to working on it within the next few weeks.
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Burrrr.....
78 here today in Orange County
GB
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were you get that intercooler from? how much? what did it come with? this build looks pretty sweet :) Good luck.
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also picked up a 3" exhaust system for cheap yesterday, no pics but it's a huge piece of pipe (that's what she said)
Should be getting back to working on it within the next few weeks.
When I got my 3" my wife was not impressed, kind of shrugged her shoulders, and walked away. She doesn't like my car either, so it is an uphill battle ;)
Great job on the car moving, even if it was to and from the impound lol
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gnavs, every time I see this thread title it makes me chuckle. Most people want to build a FAST AAZ rather than a slow one. Where's the challenge in building a slow one?
haha, I've honestly never read it that way. It's always been the build itself thats slow. Either way, it's never going to be considered fast by todays standards. I just want it faster ;D
were you get that intercooler from? how much? what did it come with? this build looks pretty sweet :) Good luck.
I picked it up on the vortex classifieds. under $100 to my door but i think it may have suffered some slight damage during the tow.
also picked up a 3" exhaust system for cheap yesterday, no pics but it's a huge piece of pipe (that's what she said)
Should be getting back to working on it within the next few weeks.
When I got my 3" my wife was not impressed, kind of shrugged her shoulders, and walked away. She doesn't like my car either, so it is an uphill battle ;)
Great job on the car moving, even if it was to and from the impound lol
Progress is progress, and even a snails pace is still moving forward ;)
Burrrr.....
78 here today in Orange County
GB
pshh, snow doesn't mean it's cold out ;)
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got some work done on the downpipe the last couple nights. Man is that ever slow going, 3 hours into it and all we had was the first 2 bends in place. Having the first couple bends TIG welded at my roomates work, the rest will likely be MIG welded.
Exhaust is also in place and I've run the battery pos. cable from the trunk to the engine bay. Hopefully ready to start it this weekend.
Cross your fingers...
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Here's a pic of the downpipe with the last sections tacked. It's since been MIG welded and is installed in the car.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAGE_228.jpg)
Filled it up with G12, power steering fluid, cranked it over manually and circulated some oil before the big moment. Hooked up a battery and noticed some smoke. Not good... Disconnected the battery and had a look inside the bay. Turns out the ring connector that runs from the positive terminal on the starter to the alternator was just barely touching the ground connector next to it. I moved it out of the way, reconnected the battery and tried to start the car but the starter won't even turn. i ran out of time to work on it, I'm out in Ontario for work this week, but I'm thinking the starter fried.
Will reevaluate and go from there. If anyone has a spare AAZ starter lying around I may just take it off your hands.
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Got the starter issue sorted out, the solenoid must have fried.
It actually started with relative ease on Saturday night and the sound it made can be directly compared to farm equipment. Shut it down pretty quick though to evaluate an oil pressure indicator that didn't turn off (methinks it's just the sensor) but I'll be hooking up the oil pressure gauge soon to monitor things in real time.
Also, both mt accessory belts slipped off so I'll need to figure that out too.
I'll take a vid tonight so you can hear for yourselves. I'm elated at this point though :)
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looks great! ;D
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Got the starter issue sorted out, the solenoid must have fried.
It actually started with relative ease on Saturday night and the sound it made can be directly compared to farm equipment. Shut it down pretty quick though to evaluate an oil pressure indicator that didn't turn off (methinks it's just the sensor) but I'll be hooking up the oil pressure gauge soon to monitor things in real time.
Also, both mt accessory belts slipped off so I'll need to figure that out too.
I'll take a vid tonight so you can hear for yourselves. I'm elated at this point though :)
The oil pressure indicator will flash if there is no input from the W terminal on the alternator to the dynamic oil pressure warning system, just FYI. I see you mention your accessory belts were off so that would cause the oil indicator to flash. I freaked myself out after I did my first T-belt change and fired the engine up without the alternator belt on.
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You're exactly right! I read Vince's walkthrough regarding the dynamic oil pressure system and that's what I gathered from it. I've hooked up my gauges anyways to be 100% positive so I'll likely be doing another test run tonight. My phone's video capabilities are subpar so I'll have to find someone to act as camera-guy. Hopefully I'll get some videos up soon.
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I wait the video ;D
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So I took the car for a trip around the block, after waiting for a few minutes for the coolant to get up to operating temperature, and had to shut things down due to an issue.
At startup I was seeing around 50 psi oil pressure (sender mounted on the filter flange), dropping to around 25 when warmed up. I got 3/4 of the way around the block when the pressure suddenly dropped immediately followed by a bad high pitched noise. I shut it down and pushed it the half block home. I was maybe seeing 2700 rpms during this trip so it wasn't revved too high.
Initial reaction is intermediate bearings, or possibly the turbo, both of which were replaced during the rebuild.
Haven't tried starting it up again until I get some thoughts from you guys.
Any help is appreciated.
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Bump
I'm gone for the weekend so hopefully there are a great many replies when I get back on Sunday ;)
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Make sure the intermediate shaft turns easily.
^^^^ Good advice... If it's binding then it'll slip on the t-belt and probably cause some freaky noises. Vac pump can cause it to seize too!
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well the intermediate shaft turns with the starter and the vac pump doesn't seem to be seized either. Everything seems to be spinning freely.
I guess the next step is to drop the pan and check my main caps/bearings...
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So the car has been moved to Rocky Mountain House at my good friends parents place. I'll have access to a lift as well as old man mechanic knowledge. My pops came down yesterday and hauled it back for me. Some would call it progress, sorta. At least it's not on the street anymore.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAG0138.jpg)
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So the car has been moved to Rocky Mountain House at my good friends parents place. I'll have access to a lift as well as old man mechanic knowledge. My pops came down yesterday and hauled it back for me. Some would call it progress, sorta. At least it's not on the street anymore.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/IMAG0138.jpg)
What's with the straps on the mirrors? ;D
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it's obviously the strongest tie down point ;)
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Well, progress made once again. The loss of oil pressure was likely due to sludge buildup in the oil filter. I make sure to always use Mann filters for this car and it may have been a combination of sludgy oil and/or faulty bypass valve in the filter. I installed a cheap one from Canadian Tire for testing purposes and hooked up a pressure gauge directly to the filter flange (in place of the pressure sender) so I could monitor the pressure at the source. I'm now seeing roughly 18psi at idle and 25psi at 2000rpm, which my mechanic friend tells me is to be expected with this engine.
Either way I'm glad it was a filter issue and not something internal. The thing purrs like a kitten again now.
I'll be heading back up to work on it again in the next few weeks so I hope to snap some more pics and get a video of it running.
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Well, progress made once again. The loss of oil pressure was likely due to sludge buildup in the oil filter. I make sure to always use Mann filters for this car and it may have been a combination of sludgy oil and/or faulty bypass valve in the filter. I installed a cheap one from Canadian Tire for testing purposes and hooked up a pressure gauge directly to the filter flange (in place of the pressure sender) so I could monitor the pressure at the source. I'm now seeing roughly 18psi at idle and 25psi at 2000rpm, which my mechanic friend tells me is to be expected with this engine.
Either way I'm glad it was a filter issue and not something internal. The thing purrs like a kitten again now.
I'll be heading back up to work on it again in the next few weeks so I hope to snap some more pics and get a video of it running.
YAAAAY! Another AAZ runs again! Hopefully mine will join that list in the next few weeks/months. ;)
Went back and read all the thread; sure was quite the trip to get it back up from, what was it, 2010? No matter how long it's always a great feeling when a long project nears the end; think of how it will feel when finally back at full DD status!
And you should totally throw those Porsche dials back on if you still have them. ;D
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Thanks for the kind reply!
It certainly has been a long time in the works. This build has survived forum changes (not just vwdiesel), job loss, loss of interest and more so I'm glad to be at the point where it's just minor kinks that need to be worked out.
I got word from my buddy who's currently housing this lump that he took it for a drive last night. I'm heading up there Saturday morning to do a bit more tinkering and possibly take it for a spin myself.
Can't wait to get behind the wheel of this thing now, I really hope to be near the 150hp mark but we'll see.
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So here's a nice little video of it at idle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swsb40nVKYo
Also, the hood decided to fly up at me at 90km/h, must not have latched it well enough. The hunt is on for a new hood, which shouldn't be a problem. The thing is I was half expecting something in the engine bay to fail so the hood really surprised me. The GF didn't appreciate it either ;D
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2 years later and I've decided to move this in a new direction. I've been without a garage since 2012 and just didn't have the time or space to work on it, so it basically sat at my dad's farm getting rusty and full of insects.
Last weekend we decided it was time to remove what was important and scrap the rest. The motor will live on a pallet until I can jam it in a suitable MK1. That's the new plan ;D
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm222/gnavs/Mig/AAZ%20Rebuild/Shared_Image_20140820_144717_zpsa7aae523.jpeg)
The Jetta followed my too-far-gone old Rabbit to the crusher. Scored $207 8)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t1.0-9/10418334_10204759225319610_5351792413615008594_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/t1.0-9/10487348_10204759233559816_3419252340310746141_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/t31.0-8/10499413_10204759252880299_1426741771442996759_o.jpg)
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Ooh that's rough to watch. At least the engine will go on into a mk1 like mine. Was the engine running good when parked? Too bad the Mk3 got crushed; I got a Mk3 TDI 8 months ago and am always looking for non-US interior bits. Any leads on a good Mk1 swap shell yet?
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lots of parts that you could have sold. Those tails looked better than all the ones that I had on my cars and I am sure you could have made something for them. More than the scrap steel weight I am sure.
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It really hurt to see the Rabbit being crushed. Would have thought the doors & tail & maybe a few other parts would have been worth the removal and made some other Rabbit's owner happy. But time & storage can be more of a factor.
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I honestly did feel bad sending the rabbit to the crusher but it was just too rusty to work with. I want a MK1 in the future but it would have been too much to bring that one back to where I wanted it.
The MK3 did get a bunch of parts removed prior to crushing, the tails were among them. I did have it up on some local boards as a parts car but no biters, honestly Pick and Pull have enough MK3's in their lot so the competition was stiff. Everything of value was removed, leather seats, tails, euro plate tub, grille, some interior bits.
The main factor was definitely storage. With both cars being at my dad's place it was out of sight/out of mind for me but not him. He's building a shop right in the area where these cars were parked so there was some pressure to get them the hell out of there ;D
Once his shop is finished I'll probably be back at it with a nicer MK1, that's the plan anyway.