VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: vdubspeed on June 01, 2010, 03:17:39 pm
-
So here's a little backstory:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4903902-8V-16V-16vT-20V-16v-8V.-My-rabbit-GTI-has-come-full-circle...with-a-twist. (http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4903902-8V-16V-16vT-20V-16v-8V.-My-rabbit-GTI-has-come-full-circle...with-a-twist.)
video of the donor:
Diesel Rabbit runs after sitting 18 years. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=71LW2fjwKHY#)
Now then...I had to add an electric pump to get it to rev up all the way. After doing some reading and discussing with another diesel fan on the vortex I have learned that my vane pump took a shiz and that's why I need the electric pump to keep it primed and revving all the way.
Well the motor is out now getting ready to go into the 84. I was setting everything to TDC and noticed the pump was pissin out of the front seal. Lovely.
So having a bad vane pump and it needing resealed I've decided to get it rebuilt. Who would you recommend? I found one website that seems real legit called www.dieselvw.com (http://www.dieselvw.com)
I'm not trying to break the bank here as the whole point of this swap is to save money.
More to follow..
Jason
-
you know what I'd do with that pig? just for s&g's, take the fuel line off the pump and stick it right in a bottle of fuel and see if it runs on it's own...if it does just get a pump drive shaft seal from a bosch dealer and stick it in there. i wouldn't be surprised if something was blocked up in the fuel tank/lines making it starve for fuel. of course check the drive shaft for play, there should be NO noticeable play in it. if there is any movement then the bushing is worn and the pump needs an overhaul.
-
I did that. In fact it was the first thing I did. We stuck the line right into a gallon of fuel. No suction.
Had to use gravity to get it to run. The electric pump finally got it revving but then today I noticed the seal leaking so I've decided to just get it rebuilt.
Hence...I need to know a good rebuilder.
Giles wants $650 for a stock rebuild while Roth Engineering wants $220. Both said they will fix the vane pump problem.
WTF would make the price for a rebuild between the two SO great.
-
DO a few searches for Prothe both here and on Vortex, and you will find out why Roth pump "rebuilds" are so much cheaper.. Generally if you get the pump back, and the car will even run at all you are doing good... I'd like to say his product and service have improved, I thought that once before, but was proven wrong.. Most of the parts he uses are of unknown origin, some work for a while, but generally are still of a lower quality and won;t least near lie the Bosch parts..
Giles is the ideal person to rebuild your pump, not only is his work top notch, but he also sponsors this forum.. However knowing how cost can be a big factor you may want to check your local area for reputable pump rebuilders..
I think I would still maybe try slapping a seal in the front of the pump and see what happens.. It is possible that the seal is bad enough that it's sucking air instead of fuel.. Check the shaft for play before you go too far though...
It is also possible if the engine sat a while that the vanes are simply stuck in the pump.. Some have filled the pump with ATF and left it soak for several days to free them up...
-
DO a few searches for Prothe both here and on Vortex, and you will find out why Roth pump "rebuilds" are so much cheaper.. Generally if you get the pump back, and the car will even run at all you are doing good... I'd like to say his product and service have improved, I thought that once before, but was proven wrong.. Most of the parts he uses are of unknown origin, some work for a while, but generally are still of a lower quality and won;t least near lie the Bosch parts..
Giles is the ideal person to rebuild your pump, not only is his work top notch, but he also sponsors this forum.. However knowing how cost can be a big factor you may want to check your local area for reputable pump rebuilders..
I think I would still maybe try slapping a seal in the front of the pump and see what happens.. It is possible that the seal is bad enough that it's sucking air instead of fuel.. Check the shaft for play before you go too far though...
It is also possible if the engine sat a while that the vanes are simply stuck in the pump.. Some have filled the pump with ATF and left it soak for several days to free them up...
I was going to say the same thing...use a marine primer bulb to force marvel mystery oil thru the pump and leave it full of it for a few days... see if it SUCKS then. while you're waiting get a pump shaft seal from a local bosch dealer and install it. you know how to r+r the pump sprocket?
-
shaft is tight. ZERO play.
You know...I'll gladly try slapping on a front seal if I can find a DIY and a quality seal.
I'll ahead and start letting it soak tonight.
For the cost of slapping on a seal and enjoying it for now...it might be worth it.
Any tips on quality front seals and a DIY for that?
-
do a web search for authorized bosch dealers with your zip code and see what comes up. they'll need the numbers off the front of the pump housing, like a 0 494 ? number. not the 068 number that's the VW number.
-
will do. Is there a DIY out there for it?
-
will do. Is there a DIY out there for it?
not sure what you mean by DIY...
-
is there a write up for a do-it-yourselfer?
I found a DIY for a complete pump rebuild but not just a front seal. I guess I can just tear it out and install the new one.
Still trying to locate a bosch dealer. Prothe sells a seal for $4.50 though
-
all you have to do is remove the pump sprocket and the seal is exposed. you have to carefully work it out unless you have the groovy bosch seal remover thingamajiggee.
-
wow...something easy on this for once? Thought I would be forced to by a special tool from NASA or something. ;D
Will try the reseal fo sho.
Still trying to locate a Bosch dealer. Anyone have a lead? I live in a SMALL town so no go here.
-
dude the bosch corporate death machine headquarters is in Atlanta...right next to Dan Halen Sheetrock International (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7P_lzinzq4g#)
-
I am surprised that no one wanted to cabbage up the parts or the entire 80 rabbit....you looking to get rid of it??? LOL Just kidding, the wife would cut me, long, deep, and continuously.
-
Welcome aboard, its a little nicer over here huh? the guys over here are the most knowledgeable around when it comes to VW diesels. i was also going to tell you about the front seal probably being your culprit too, but then you said you were gonna rebuild it, so i didnt even worry about telling you about that seal. its very easy to replace, and is probably all thats wrong with your pump.
-
Well I made a little progress today.
First of all, this car has no HVAC at all (I used to race it), and it has no power brakes. For this reason I do not need and type of vacuum signal. So...for this segment I deleted the vacuum pump and here's how it went.
I pulled the vacuum pump out like every other 8V or 16V there needs to be a gear there to turn the oil pump off of the intermediate shaft. Great I thought...I have an old 1.8 16V out back...I'll just steal the gear and cap and be done with it. Negative.
First off all the 16V pump shaft is splined. The diesel oil pump is slotted. So I thought....I just switch out the pumps. No can do...the intermediate shaft gear is cut opposite of the diesel so I would have had to switch that to. At that point...I needed a new plan.
Now I had thought about cutting the vac pump but didn't want to because it worked good. Oh well...f-it. Pulled out the chop saw and cut it right above gear BUT leaving the center shaft still pinned in there. This will allow the intermediate shaft gear to still turn the oil pump.
Next I had the 16V cap which needed lathed down. A quick trip down to the machine shop and I was good to go. Taking the overall distance from the 16V cap and gear....the diesel gear was machined to a nice flat surface and the 16V cap was machined down too.
Here's a before shot. Cut vacuum pump gear/shaft on left. 16V gear in the middle. 16V cap on the right.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/vacuumdelete001.jpg)
Here's the finished product.
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e48/vdubspeed16vT/vacuumdelete003.jpg?t=1275524208)
As you can see the diesel gear was machined to a nice flat surface and meat was taken off the cap. When I got home I bolted it down and as I torqued down the cap the intermediate shaft binded. Damn it....didn't take enough meat off. Well...using a shim from an type 1 generator, I tucked it under the cap and cranked the cap/bolt down. no binding.
Vacuum delete a success.
Thanks for viewing,
Jason