VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Smokey Eddy on May 02, 2010, 09:08:50 pm
-
I don't have much to say other than, I can only blame my self =(
never... ever... ever... re-use con rod bolts and ALWAYS change the IM shaft bearings...
I can't tell what came first. The IM shaft seizing or the rod letting go.
The hole on the right is where the IM shaft flew out and the hole on the left... well... :'(
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06459.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06460.jpg)
-
OH NO!
-
Tears rolled down my cheeks today as i pulled the stuff off the front so i could show you guys the carnage. even now the oil is still warm.
Approximate time of death, 2:30pm western pacific.
I think the shaft seized prior because i lost power brakes and the buzzer came on. then, seconds later "WUUMMPP"
*oh EFF..."
my stomach SANK as i saw bits litter the highway behind me =( I knew exactly what had happened before i even pulled over.
I was travelling at ~120km/hr passing a semi-truck. Didn't even make it half way up his trailer.
-
Well keep it all covered up and find a new block to put your head on. Now that you have done this so much it won't be an issue of how, but how much$ to get it back on the road.
-
I need AT LEAST
rod or rods, block, im shaft, crank turned, oil pump possibly piston heads...
Realistically I think i'll end up with an over bored block and over sized pistons...
quick question, if i have the crank turned, i have 0.5mm over bearings... do the rods have to be machined? im assuming yes...
-
"""quick question, if i have the crank turned, i have 0.5mm over bearings... do the rods have to be machined? im assuming yes... """
No, they make it so that the bearings take up the slack. They can check and make sure that the rods don't need resized if they are out of round. Being that the VW crank is probably the best on the planet I bet it is fine. Unless the oil was gone for too long.
Also, the "clarkrep" has some IM shafts that he turned down and is selling.
-
Seems like this won't be too much Ched eh?
guess the Holset is back burner-ed for a while.. ;( I weep for your block.
-
The holset was a dumb idea.
It will be lots of ched Jer. I need new rods, oil pump and block?
the bearings i just bought too are all useless now seeing as everything, if salvageable will have to be turned and have bigger bearings. Hmph.
-
yeah, dunno what i was thinking. maybe just a whole new bottom end?
-
I have an oil pump that was good when pulled. You can have for cost of shipping :D GET IT BACK ON THE ROAD! I need me some inspiration for my build :D
-
I was hoping you'd take me for a ride in it on Tues :'(
I think that's just your car telling you that you need a 1.9 block!
We need to get this thing rebuilt, we have the technology!
If you want some help with it, let me know.
-
What exactly broke on the crank? Just the bolt or part of the rod as well? I reused my last set of con rod bolts :-\.
-
I live in Abby and have a couple choices you might be interested in.
a. 1.6 diesel complete motor was running excellent when pulled
b. 1.9 AAZ long block.
604 897 6280
-
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO AN AAZ BUILD. PLEASE! lol
-
I live in Abby and have a couple choices you might be interested in.
a. 1.6 diesel complete motor was running excellent when pulled
b. 1.9 AAZ long block.
604 897 6280
Is your name Dave per chance?
-
b. 1.9 AAZ long block.
b. 1.9 AAZ long block.
b. 1.9 AAZ long block.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO AN AAZ BUILD. PLEASE! lol
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO AN AAZ BUILD. PLEASE! lol
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE DO AN AAZ BUILD. PLEASE! lol
This is what is commonly referred to as a blessing in disguise ;)
-
I have an oil pump that was good when pulled. You can have for cost of shipping :D GET IT BACK ON THE ROAD! I need me some inspiration for my build :D
I'll definitely let you know man! I think i'll see what vixentd wants for that 1.9 long block and if your pump will fit it?
That's very generous of you to offer an oil pump. I'm pretty sure mine got destroyed in the grenade that went off inside the the oil pan. The best price on a new one i could find was $90!
-
Man that sucks... :(
Hope you didn't get stranded too far from home
My heartfelt condolences to you and your wallet
-
What exactly broke on the crank? Just the bolt or part of the rod as well? I reused my last set of con rod bolts :-\.
change them man. get ARP ones. The bolts sheared off. definitely don't re-use.
-
Man that sucks... :(
Hope you didn't get stranded too far from home
My heartfelt condolences to you and your wallet
The tow was only $68
I'm a lot more concerned about rods and a crank depending on what vixentd's long block looks like.
i think i vicariously spoke with vixentd today through my friend Calvin and his dad Allan...
-
Letīs hope your head is still ok. When I broke con rod, it smashed valves in head and something crap want also through turbo...
-
Letīs hope your head is still ok. When I broke con rod, it smashed valves in head and something crap want also through turbo...
=( !!
i'll see on tuesday.
Was that at high rpm?
i was in 5th going about 120km/hr.
-
I'm deeply sorry. I had that same thing happen in my trusty ol' Gti after a lot of work done to the engine. Similar circumstances, passing a trailer at around 120.. fortunately I could pull out on the next exit and avoid the heavy traffic.
I hope you'll fix it soon and put it back to the road, where it belongs. :)
-
I have an oil pump that was good when pulled. You can have for cost of shipping :D GET IT BACK ON THE ROAD! I need me some inspiration for my build :D
I'll definitely let you know man! I think i'll see what vixentd wants for that 1.9 long block and if your pump will fit it?
That's very generous of you to offer an oil pump. I'm pretty sure mine got destroyed in the grenade that went off inside the the oil pan. The best price on a new one i could find was $90!
Yeah it was in my good running no issues 1.6. I have another from my TD block that only had 80,000 miles, but I have no clue what it ran like as I got the engine in a bag. If you want I could send them both and you decide, if the 1.9 doesn't work out.
-
I'm sorry Ed I have to ask this. Does it still Run?
-
Aw man, that sucks! I also re-used my rod bolts. :-\ Now that makes me nervous. I've already sent something through the block once and I don't really feel like doing it again....
Brendan
-
I'm sorry Ed I have to ask this. Does it still Run?
It did run actually if you must know :P
which makes sense... it was a 3 cyl horribly out of balance diesel! but only for a few seconds before i turned it off.
Thanks for the support guys. I sure was depressed last night about it.
I'll likely have a TON of good 1.6td stuff for sale soon if i go through with the 1.9 (granted i can afford the price...)
items such as, oil pan baffle, main bearings, IM shaft bearings, all the seals for those, oil pan gasket & piston rings. I also have the water delivery pipe but i'll see if i can make it work with the 1.9 long block if i go that route.
IDEALY im going to pray that my (basically new) head & valves aren't damaged and I can just find either an aaz block or better yet a 1.6td block and just go that route seeing as i already have the parts (less the con rod bearings - unless i get the crank turned which would be a good idea anyways; i have 0.5mm con rod bearings in the box) for a total bottom end rebuild with baffle and sandwich plate for an oil cooler.
I'm just SO choked that I spent like ... over $2,000 on unrelated engine stuff in the recent months and then this happens...
switches, relays, sound system, all new springs + nitrogen struts + bearings/bushings, and then the parts that were going to go in tomorrow: bearings, seals, baffle and gaskets. Even the oil & coolant in it only had 236km on them.
-
Aw man, that sucks! I also re-used my rod bolts. :-\ Now that makes me nervous. I've already sent something through the block once and I don't really feel like doing it again....
Brendan
Man oh man Eddie !! I feel for you. Don't knock your self out over the bolts. Every engine I've over hauled I've reused the rod bolts. The last 1.6L was still running strong 100K miles later when I lost touch with it. Get back on the road ASAP... you have lots of resources up in your lovely land of the Maple leaf and diesel cars !!
-
Letīs hope your head is still ok. When I broke con rod, it smashed valves in head and something crap want also through turbo...
=( !!
i'll see on tuesday.
Was that at high rpm?
i was in 5th going about 120km/hr.
Well, I was going ~120km/h in 3rd gear :lol:
-
Sorry to hear smoddy :(
Full 1.9TD swap! ;D ???
;)
-
:( Bummer man. That really sucks.
I have a 1.9 bottom end that I could probably strap to a pallet or through in a tote if you want. IM me
-
:( Bummer man. That really sucks.
I have a 1.9 bottom end that I could probably strap to a pallet or through in a tote if you want. IM me
THANK YOU TYLER!
fingers crossed that the head is OK
I'll definately be going in that direction i think if my top end is still good. No need in buying a complete engine if i have 2/3rds of one already.
oh man the anticipation of tomorrow is killing me - definitely not focused at work right now...
I'll take lots of pictures of the tear down + the pile of bits in the bottom of the oil pan! Yippee Hurray!
-
Eddy, I'm sorry to hear about your motor. The last motor that did that to me was a small block chev, It popped at the 'Welcome to Cache Creek' sign, at midnight, in my motorhome, with my wife, two kids, and mother-in-law. :o While everyone else panicked, I pulled over and camly went to bed. :) We wound up leaving that one behind, and getting a new motorhome, now I always have BCAA. They would have towed the damn thing home for me, free! Less than $150 a year, the BCAA is cheap insurance in my mind.
If you wind up with vixentd's long block, you could recoup a little by selling the extra head (to me?). Seriously, I'd be interested in the head, but likely not have money for a couple weeks. I just bought another car (92), so that ties up everything I've got this week.
And it sounds like there are a few of us who might be able to give you a hand with swapping a new one in. Motor swap GTG at Eddy's place?
-
now I always have BCAA. They would have towed the damn thing home for me, free! Less than $150 a year, the BCAA is cheap insurance in my mind.
If you wind up with vixentd's long block, you could recoup a little by selling the extra head (to me?). Seriously, I'd be interested in the head, but likely not have money for a couple weeks. I just bought another car (92), so that ties up everything I've got this week.
And it sounds like there are a few of us who might be able to give you a hand with swapping a new one in. Motor swap GTG at Eddy's place?
Yes, BCAA is more often than not worth it. I had bcaa for a year but forgot to renew it.
That sucks about the motor home! hahaha i love the calm response though. i certainly wasn't that laid back. I sat in my car, tilted the chair back and just blasted my stereo while i waited for the tow truck.
As for Vixentd's long block - I have to touch base with him and see how much he is asking for it and I'll see what it would cost to get tyler's bottom end to me. Then i'll make a decision. The big issue is i need pistons too and those are the expensive/hard to get my greasy mits on bits.
as for a GTG meet at my place everyone is always welcome! haha i'd love to see some vw turbo D's that are worth looking at opposed to my heap of broken bits. You guys would all see the huge burn out lines from my car not more than a week ago too!
As for the spare head possibility, I think i'd run vixentd's engine as is and port my head out more and get it nice and mirrored and then i'd swap them and sell it to you. That would work well because you would have some time. But time and TUESDAY will tell what i do in the coming week. You totally got dibs on the head though if that happens.
I love it how dubbers help dubbers. it's fantastic!
-
Smokey Eddy GTG List
1. RadoTD
I'll see you tomorrow! :) And change your signature from DEAD to COMATOSE or something. The monster will live on.
-
And change your signature from DEAD to COMATOSE or something. The monster will live on.
YES!! That's the attitude needed here! It's gonna come out breathing even more fire! maybe you can blow up some 020's lol
-
Hahahahha yeah that would be interesting. throw a clutch through the hood you mean?
I suppose it is going to come back to life but it will be totally different! different displacement!
Right now it has SUCH a massive bleeding hole in it... i haven't gone back into the garage since i took that picture.
one friend has already said "time for a new car" on facebook :P
He'll see a new car alright ;)
-
He'll see twice the burnout pics for sure!!! MUHAHAHAHA! NEw car.. PFFT! this is a Big kids lego set. SWAP IT OUT :P
Good luck ED! SOrry I live 1/8 of the way across the world.. :( I'd be there in a heartbeat!
-
You could just JB it back together. Your 3 cylinder should still be putting down more power then my NA :P
-
You could just JB it back together. Your 3 cylinder should still be putting down more power then my NA :P
HA! Yes... JB weld and duct tape. What more could you need?
And Eddy, give me some time to build my motor and we can race our AAZ's!
-
HA! Yes... JB weld and duct tape. What more could you need?
Drywall screws ought to do it up reallll nice. lol
-
HA! Yes... JB weld and duct tape. What more could you need?
Drywall screws ought to do it up reallll nice. lol
laugh all you want, I have seen motors with bigger holes in the block rebuilt(with a new rod and polished crank of course) and patched up with marine tex and run many many more hours.
sorry to hear that your car went tits up, but breaking things is all that pushes us to build bigger and better things.
hell, I have gone through three bodies, two blocks and four heads, and I and still driving the "same" car...
-
hell, I have gone through three bodies, two blocks and four heads, and I and still driving the "same" car...
That's what it is all about with these cars man! Big Kids Lego.
-
i laughed so hard at "same" car...
ahahahhaha!!!
well it did idle for a few seconds on 3 cylinders before i killed it. and Matt (radotd) im not waiting for ANYONE
XD
If I have to overbore this replacement aaz block i dont know if i have the coin for over sized pistons and machine shop costs.
it would mean cancelling my vacation with my brother to england to see my cousins ='(
-
If I have to overbore this replacement aaz block i dont know if i have the coin for over sized pistons and machine shop costs.
it would mean cancelling my vacation with my brother to england to see my cousins ='(
cant do that...
even if you have to go with another 1.6 you should still be able to go bigger and better.
I am sure you can find something you can afford.
if I was not leaving town for the summer on Wednesday I would volunteer to pull and crate my newly "extra" motor and ship it to you for a very reasonable price.
unfortunately, I am leaving in two days and I still have to finish up some school work...
I am sure something is lying around someones place. *hint, hint*
-Owen
-
Tyler has been very generous with his offer of his aaz block which is complete from the oil pan to the deck of the block but it may need a bore and the crank nose slipped on it so it needs to be machined as well.
which would mean i'd have to find 0.5 over pistons no?
it would be cool to go 2 bores over and have a 2.something Litre IDI.
I wonder how it would drive...
I think that would merrit a girdle and a bigger pump head.
possibly a second, smaller, turbo.
-
if it needs bored then yes you need OS pistons, but I would let the machinist look at it before you buy the pistons, it may need more than .5 over to make it right again(deep scratches, lots of oval, etc...)
-
Catlin_Cava sent me some of Gilles prices on pistons and his are $130 each. so that plus about $50 per cyl for the bore is over $500 plus the shipment of said pistons across the 2,000km that is the girth of North America.
which i guess isn't that bad considering i spent that much on suspension...
I'd hate to get tits deep into this only to find that my new AAZ head is destroyed tomorrow... I think i'll shut up until i have pics of the insides to show you guys.
I'll be sure to have a video of me dumping the shrapnel out of the oil pan out.
"Well there's your problem, you've got bits of the block in your oil"
-
I sincerely hope that you get a pleasant surprise when you pull the motor apart tomorrow.
and I would be looking into wrecked mk3 TDI's(I am actually, have been for some time) to swap one of those motors in...
-
Yes, I'd love to go TDI. But ... I'll have to have my career by then. I think i should have like a ... cap of how much money i should be willing to spend to get an IDI back on the road and if its too much just sell what good stuff i have and buy a TDI with the money instead.
-
V10 TDI out of a touareg :P
-
if you can find a tdi from a car with a CE2 wiring harness then the swap is pretty straight forward into a late mk2(like your '90)
but there is something to be said for the simplicity of the IDI.
-
What does a CE2 wiring harness look like?
and key indicators?
:D
i do like the simplicity but i'm ready to play in the big leagues.
-
the later mk2's had a CE2 harness(your 90 should, my 91 does)
it will have plastic water outlets on the head with two wire coolant sensors, it will have a two speed rad fan(I think) etc...
-
the later mk2's had a CE2 harness(your 90 should, my 91 does)
it will have plastic water outlets on the head with two wire coolant sensors, it will have a two speed rad fan(I think) etc...
yes and yes
-
so a CE2 TDI will very nearly plug and play in your car.
other than swapping the throttle pedal, all the TDI stuff should swap right over.
-
After all this, I guess the turn signals now work. :'(
-
After all this, I guess the turn signals now work. :'(
My diesel caravan's turn signals stopped working when the over voltage alternator cooked the ECU. Its on my list of things to fix now that I have a shop manual from Chrysler... I'll be going old school rather than change the ECU.
Mean time, I try to use motorcycle signals, but most drivers don't remember what they mean.
-
Mean time, I try to use motorcycle signals, but most drivers don't remember what they mean.
You're using too many fingers. ;D
-
HEY! actually i found something out quite humorously.
I was with two friends (RadoTD did make an appearance briefly but these two are other friends :) he has his fancy gauges now and i have my magnet RPM thing...)
and one of them says, "hey Ed... why are there no tunes?"
I point to the lack of a battery.
"oh..." he says
after that i fetch the jumper cables & battery and connect the wires that go into the dash and my amp wire to the RED and i clip the BLACK lead to where i DID have my ground going to on the body...
no power at the deck.
thats odd... i think... i jimmy them around a bit and some sparks fly and i get "continuity" which was more like a spray of sparks.
what i was using for a ground was structural but where i couldn't see it has become all corroded.
So i take my second ground that grounds to the transmission mount bolt.
That one grounds for the starter, because the car was previously starting, but NOT my stereo!!! So, me thinks the mounts to the body are either rusty or too dirty to be useful grounds to dash stuff or some combination of the two or too many things trying to ground through something too small?... i hopefully have found the solution to my electrical problems.
now for internal pictures... which i must say i am quite pleased about.
SUPER big imprints from the bigger valves on the piston that let go. The rings had gone BELOW the cylinder lining and it was stuck in that position. I need to remove the crank to get it out. I didn't clean ANYTHING by the way... that piston head is exactly as it was...
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06461.jpg)
Here is the head as it came off. no cleaning anywhere has been done in ANY of these pictures.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06467.jpg)
here are the piston heads from left to right
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06463.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06464.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06465.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06466.jpg)
I cleaned the head up and it looks fine except on the piston that hit the head you can see very definite ... burn? marks where the combustion chamber is ... its odd. Look for it in the second picture.
It's as if ... this piston let go but it also was burning very strangely. coincidence?
-
I know this car SO well now. I realized that i took the whole front assembly, radiator, all the stuff infront of the hole, the battery, the hoses, the IC hoses, the sensor wires, the hard lines, the GP wires off in probably less than an hour...
anyone else feel like they know their car back to front upside down and backwards? :P
I just realized why that piston is so clean! It smacked the head so hard all the soot just fell off!!!
OR....
when it broke free the injector probably sprayed a couple more times and it cleaned the piston and then dripped down into the oil pan...
-
I know exactly what you mean by knowing your car, I can rebuild a motor in an afternoon...
your motor looks pretty good, considering what happened.
I would venture to say that new valves, lifters and guides would make that head like new again, ready to be slapped on another short block.
good luck, keep us posted.
-
for all the valves? or just the two that got smacked? The cam is fine. No damage.
i was just going to see if the two that got smacked damaged the guides. if the valves still move freely in the guides im not going to change them [ for the other 6 ] . I can assume that the two that got hit are bent somewhere/stuck in the guides.
good time to change stem seals too.
-
Just caught this thread & saw the carnage. :o Bummer, Eddy. (My ex-neighbor did that same vented block trick, a couple of days after I adjusted his valves & pump timing... he got too power-hungry & over-revved an 'unknown' engine.) Hope you can get yours back on the road reasonably, and soon.
OTOH thanks for the heads-up on the rod bolts. How many miles did those rods & bolts have on them? That's scary; I've never changed the rod bolts on a VW diesel rebuild. So ARP is the hot ticket for the bolts/nuts? Any part # come to mind for a 1.6L, or will ARP just know which are needed?
It's not assembled yet, but my new 1.6 has already been balanced, so crap, there's some more bucks to dig in the pockets for. I'm guessing a good automotive machine shop can do the pressing, right? I'll probably ask the aircraft engine shop to do that when they do the re-balance (it couldn't be far off with just the bolt/nut changes?). The turned-down intermediate shafts are just to smooth out higher rpm operations, right. Can't see how one would have helped your engine survive any better.
Thanks for posting the graphic warnings and (hopefully) sweet successes.
J.R.
SoCal
-
They are very small and hard to see, but there are diamonds in here.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC06461.jpg)
-
VW Smokr,
they don't have to be ARP if you're running near stock numbers. They are just torque to yield so you can't re-use them.
You dont have to get a shop to press them in either. I'd be more than comfortable hammering them into the rod caps my self.
They are just splined bolts. no biggie. Mine actually moved freely once i had the nuts off them with a light tap of a hammer.
new bolts will not offset the balancing of your crank to pistons. one would hope the new bolts would have the same mass as the old ones.
745 turbogreasel ,
isn't it crazy how CLEAN that cylinder is?!??
I couldn't get the pistons that clean for the life of me when i had it apart...
the cylinder walls are smooth as GLASS too...
-
Hey, just reading back through from the beginning - to me it sounds like you must have had problems with your IM shaft first? Given that you lost brakes and got your oil buzzer before the WHUMP....
Got any carnage pics of the big end of the fried cylinder? I'm wondering if you lost oil pressure and seized that rod to the crank or something... Either way, BRUTAL.
For what it's worth there's a few VW diesels in the auto parts section of Craigslist right now too... Saw one of the VW wreckers out Langley way has multiple AAZ's right now.
-
Yes i did see that. Also some TDI's. Very tempting but for my budget I've asked Tyler to send me his. It has everything in it and just needs the crank nose to be machined - which i have a friend who can do for me at his work.
Yes, oil pressure does sound like a culprit here. For sure. I think the IM shaft must have siezed or something. I'll see how freely the other rods move when i take the block out this weekend. I'll look for "blueing" too to see if things got hot and starved of oil.
There was still lots of oil up at the cam though but that doesnt mean it was under much pressure...
This was probably a combo of two things. low oil pressure just influenced it to happen quicker.
but... upon a second thought... if the rod siezed to the crank then the engine would have just stopped turning. it would have stalled on idle which it did not. it idled fine.
Up to the throwing of the rod i did notice higher boost & egts. Maybe there was a lack of oil going on.
I always thought/hoped the IM shaft was gear driven.
but ... if the con rod cap was backing off the bolts then maybe that noise was piston slap and the higher egt and boost was me compensating the lack of power from 1 cylinder not firing properly?
dear god... try to imagine what would be happening inside the cylinder if it had even 1mm of loose travel up and down... the compression would be SO high. it would be piston to head kind of compression but without the swirl chamber. Maybe thats why its so clean... it got burnt off
-
The IM shaft is driven off the timing belt. The other end has the gear that drives the vac pump which drives the oil pump. Take out your vac pump and see if the slot is gone/almost gone. That could explain a little.
-
If the IM shaft wasn't spinning wouldn't i smell burning timing belt? or do you think it would be smooth enough not to melt the belt?
-
I had an 84 that the belt rubbed the cover so bad it almost wore it to nothing and I never smelled the difference. I only got lucky because I heard it hitting.
-
Ahhh
yeah the im shaft must have siezed up. sigh.
I guess that is something we should all be aware of now. if you have no power brakes at all as in ... nothing what so ever. It could be a much bigger issue that a leaking brake booster or leaking hose from the vacuum pump to the booster...
I thought i was getting low oil pressure (the buzzer and light) because the IM bearings were worn so i didn't think much of it, just planned to replace them that week which was actually just this last tuesday - wasn't soon enough. I also just thought the intermitant braking was a leaking hose because it would come and go right so i didn't think it was a siezed IM shaft... sigh
literally only takes a few km at little to no oil pressure to royally ... stuff up
The stock VW diesel intake manifolds bias airflow to cylinders 2 and 3. This causes cylinders 2 and 3 to have a more lean air/fuel mixture than cylinders 1 and 4, thus producing higher egt's in cylinders 1 and 4 compared to 2 and 3. The other problem that we and other tuners have noticed, is that under big fueling and high boost pressures the number 2 and 3 connecting rods bend while the number 1 and 4 connecting rods escape unscathed. The extra biased airflow from the stock intake manifold increases the peak cylinder pressure on those inner two cylinder and bends the rods prematurely, while also causing extra strain on the rod bearings and crankshaft.
-
Since the I-shaft pully runs off the back of the timing belt,
hagar suggested some belt dressing on the back of the belt.
That vacuum pump is pretty reliable when it comes to driving the oil pump,
the diaphram type can let loose of the oil pump shaft.
Still couldn't hurt to take a look at the slot the oil pump rides in.
-
That, and the condition of the IM shaft bearings... Cooked, OK, etc?
-
I've been at work most of this week (which is good, i need the hours) and im also waiting for my friend's hoist to lift the block completely out with. I don't really feel like laying on my back under the car fighting with the oil ban bolts if im going to have it on a stand by the weekend.
I'll be sure to let everyone know. Don't be surprised if there aren't any IM shaft bearings to show because the IM shaft is in about 15 pieces on the side of the highway in the grass somewhere...
-
Sorry to hear of your loss. I'm sure with everyones help here you will be up and running in no time.
As far as not finding the intermediate shaft bearings, you might be surprised to find them still there. I bought an 85 Jetta TD with an engine in the same state of disrepair. Same location of the hole in the block. Broke rod. Shattered intermediate shaft.
What I did find was a chewed up intermediate shaft front bearing which is what I attributed the catastophic failure to. Maybe the PO of the vehicle was running with a too tight timing belt.
Anyway, good luck with the rebuild. I too await the results of the autopsy. :o
-
Sorry to hear of your loss. I'm sure with everyones help here you will be up and running in no time.
As far as not finding the intermediate shaft bearings, you might be surprised to find them still there. I bought an 85 Jetta TD with an engine in the same state of disrepair. Same location of the hole in the block. Broke rod. Shattered intermediate shaft.
What I did find was a chewed up intermediate shaft front bearing which is what I attributed the catastophic failure to. Maybe the PO of the vehicle was running with a too tight timing belt.
Anyway, good luck with the rebuild. I too await the results of the autopsy. :o
Jerry sounds like he has a medical or law enforcement background :-) Like me :-D
-
Uhhh
so i took the valves out and they slide perfectly in and out - any valve, in any valve guide...
tell me what im doing wrong.
shouldn't two of these valves be messed up?
will post pics soon.
-
They may be alright. I'd be a little surprised, but these heads smack the valves straight on, so they dont bend them, exactly. I'd use a set of calipers, and check lengths of the two that smacked against the others to see if they got shortened or mushroomed.
I'd replace the two valves anyways, it would really suck to drop a valve after all this.
-
yes it would. I will replace the two valves that CLEARLY smacked the pistons. Upon closer inspection i saw that the other piston in the middle pair had valve to piston contact. very minor.