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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: mstephenson on April 10, 2010, 06:49:10 pm
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I have been pouring over the posts and have a few questions: 1.5na
I want to change out my injector pump and am terrified to do so ???. This is my brother's idea of learning mechanics: buy a German engineered automobile to learn on, but also because everything is 'mechanical'. Really, because he doesn't want to work on my stuff anymore.
I bought a re-built pump in '06? and never put it on or filled it up with any fluid. It has been wrapped in an oil soaked towel. Are the seals ruined and internals rusted? or should I try the 'experiment' for learning purposes anyway?
A theory question: I understand why timing is important for the crank/cam. Is there also a 'tdc' for the IP? Or is this something I should just go through the exercise until it dawns on me a few years from now. I do read. I have the technician manual from Vince's site and plan to do all that testing as well. I have the Bentley.
Can the OEM fuse box be replaced with something less prone to catch on fire? Mine has some melting by PO. I am thinking that will take care of the no-start ignition and sizzling I hear every now and then.
Do you need special tools to remove the injectors? I saw a socket or something by Snapon specifically for this?
I just hate tearing something down, being stuck and it never gets fixed and pieces everywhere. It's terrible for the current owner and the next owner.
I just want Rusty to run again :) and then I can improve/fix a little at a time.
Thanks all,
Michele
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You and me both ... nervous. I also am a novice reading as much as I can ... and I also support the work that Vince has posted elsewhere ... and herein.
IP pump on my 1.6L rabbit has a mark to 'begin' close to it's setting ... along with the flywheel, and also a groove etched into the sprocket.
But to be 'on spot', everyone says to use the timing kit. Others are successful with the ear method, feel mode, etc. .... but from what I read, that is 'iffy' ... and 'may' wind up ruining the engine if not close enough.
The kits are not that costly ... like 70-80 bucks. There's a 'chinese' merchant fellow back east .. Prothe I think ... that sells them for 72.00 ... last I checked. Got one and let a mechanic use it to time my rabbit ... and he wound up buying it from me for his shop ... so it was at least good enough for him.
Your other points ... gonna keep an eye for responses so that I can learn also.
Welcom aboard!!
I have been pouring over the posts and have a few questions: 1.5na
I want to change out my injector pump and am terrified to do so ???. This is my brother's idea of learning mechanics: buy a German engineered automobile to learn on, but also because everything is 'mechanical'. Really, because he doesn't want to work on my stuff anymore.
I bought a re-built pump in '06? and never put it on or filled it up with any fluid. It has been wrapped in an oil soaked towel. Are the seals ruined and internals rusted? or should I try the 'experiment' for learning purposes anyway?
A theory question: I understand why timing is important for the crank/cam. Is there also a 'tdc' for the IP? Or is this something I should just go through the exercise until it dawns on me a few years from now. I do read. I have the technician manual from Vince's site and plan to do all that testing as well. I have the Bentley.
Can the OEM fuse box be replaced with something less prone to catch on fire? Mine has some melting by PO. I am thinking that will take care of the no-start ignition and sizzling I hear every now and then.
Do you need special tools to remove the injectors? I saw a socket or something by Snapon specifically for this?
I just hate tearing something down, being stuck and it never gets fixed and pieces everywhere. It's terrible for the current owner and the next owner.
I just want Rusty to run again :) and then I can improve/fix a little at a time.
Thanks all,
Michele
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WELCOME TO THE BOARD MICHELE!
As for changing out the Injection Pump, its nothing at all. Have you ever changed a tire? Swapping an IP is just as easy, its the timing that takes a little time ;)
Your going to want to turn the engine by hand to TDC. First things first. Take the upper timing cover off, as well as the valve cover. 3 or so bolts hold on the tming cover, and 8 bolts hold the valve cover on. After you have this done pop the little plastic plug out of the tranny just on the driver side of the engine, so the flywheel is visible (this will be needed to locate the TDC mark on the flywheel). 19mm? I believe fits the crank sprocket to turn the motor. Following vinces guide on "How To Se Injection Pump Timing" it will show in detail on how to locate TDC. After that the pump and belt can come off. It is best to order a new Timing belt and tensioner along with new Glow plugs (as we all know how much of a pita they are to get at with the pump still in place) if you don't know when any were changed last. (cheap insurance if you ask me).
There is 4 13mm bolts holding the pump to the engine, and the big nut on the pump sprocket. 17mm wrench will take off the metal fuel lines that run from pump to injector. Take all these off and separate it from the ip bracket, take the fuel lines, cold start advance cable off the back and throttle cable off the top and VOILA! The pump is good to come out.
With the pump out now is a good time to also take out and replace the glow plugs, as the two left ones are almost impossible to get at with the pump in place. You might also want to check out Vince's guide for "pimping the Glow Plugs".. Its a very good way to ensure you are getting full power to your gp's upon use.
All in all, this forum will help you achieve pretty much anything that needs to be done to your "German engineered automobile" ;) lol
Good luck and again welcome! :)
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I too have a Prothe timing gauge. I have no complaints about the quality of it at all.
it was worth the $70 i paid for it.
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Fuse box on fire? Mine was much more frequently holding water ::)
The pump should be fine unless it was outside under a towel.
not sure why you want to remove injectors, but all you need is a 27 MM deep socket, and you need new heat shields for underneath them.
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You might want to check and see if you're getting power to the shut off solenoid on the injection pump when the key is on. Your injection pump might be okay but if the solenoid is not getting power then it will not push fuel to the injectors.
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Thanks 8v-of-fury that makes me feel like I can actually do it. And yes I do/can change tires even though I won't date a guy that can't ;)
Have the dial and lock pin. will a piece of billet do for the cam plate or should I order one when I get the two-prong tensioner thingy?
History of the car. I'm second owner. 78 4-door, 1.5 4-speed, sunroof, A/C (VOA), 261K miles, and interior is IMMACULATE. The registration tags have 1994 and it was parked until 2005 when I bought it for 300$. Checked that motor still turned. Got it home and emptied tank and all other fluids and filters. Refilled. New battery. And turned that starter over until it nearly exploded. And Rusty was re-born and I am hooked!!!
You guys may take it for granted after all this time, but the simplicity and elegance of it all is really something. No throttle body or OBDC hookup or electronic this or that.
OK, so the pump does have to be changed as there was so much diesel coming out of the shaft and puddling up I could smell it sitting at intersections. and it still got 36mpg!
Thought I would have injectors tested/replaced while it's all getting done.
Will get new glow plugs as well. They are the slow ones. Is this the time to change them over to the fast ones and pimp fuses or wait?
Thanks yall so much. I've waited 5 years to do this.
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http://www.autopartsway.com/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=part~ID=1981~Volkswagen~Jetta%20Diesel%20Base%201.6%20L4~240808 (http://www.autopartsway.com/autoparts2/index.cfm?fetch=part~ID=1981~Volkswagen~Jetta%20Diesel%20Base%201.6%20L4~240808)
First one on that page! Known as Bosch Duraterms or the best by many. They will work with either the fast or slow gp relay, and are better than every other one on the market. They are actually for the Post-92 AAZ diesel engines, and used for there "Afterglow" system. Where the gps stay on for up to 3 minutes on those chilly mornings to aid in emissions and cold starts. I have them and recommend them to everyone who is looking for gp's. I am using them with Vince's pimped setup and it is a very good setup. Manual switch on my dash activates the solenoid under the hood which sends nearly 12v straight to the plugs instead of the 9 they are getting from the stock wiring. Most certainly time to get the new plugs in when you have the pump out, and at least start the wiring, and get rid of the copper buss bar.. so that you don't have to necessarily finish it all up.. but at least get whatever done that will be hidden behind the pump.
"From Simplicity, Came Elegance" ;) I agree with you, they are the best things to work on!
Injectors pop tested and/or replaced while your already doing work is a great idea.
I have a leaking pump with a popcan strapped to the bottom of it to keep the fuel off the rad hoses till I have time to fix it :P!
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Some people have replaced the Pre-1981 fuseboxes with the ones found on late 80's Cabby's...you might check on VWCaddy.com if interested...a poster who went by "Iowacaddy" had the diagrams but said you needed some soldering experience going into it.
If your getting water on the fusebox you can cut a thin piece of plastic (like from a plastic milk jug or veg oil cubie) and slide it between the firewall and the top of the fusebox...the plastic needs to extend out past the wiring pigtails and beyond the seam where the firewall bends in an L-shape nearer the steering wheel; that way if you have a common leak above the box it will still drip but the water runs down past the fusebox and drips off the wiring past the pigtails at the back of the box to the floor. Or you can figure out how to stop the leak in the first place...please post that for us if you figure out how ;)
The fuseboxes are helped out by adding relays to the system where the wiring is a little under rated and tends to burn out on these boxes; like for the headlights and blower motor.
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Before you remove the timing belt get some practice in with your tools. Follow the Bentley's procedure for timing the engine as if you had just replaced the belt. Don't loosen or remove anything, just go through the motions. It is very important to get repeatable readings from the dial indicator. The car runs now so it's likely that it's timed "close enough" Don't be surprised or alarmed if you find cam/crank timing off a bit or even the pump timing to be off by quite a few mm.
You don't need the special tool for the cam. A door hinge, wrench, piece of flat stock etc will work fine. I used to just do it by eye to be honest. As for the tensioner tool, I find them completely useless. You can easily get more then enough tension by simply pulling on the tensioner by hand. I find this gives you much more room to get your wrench in there to tighten up the tensioner nut.
Just remember to turn the engine over 2 times by hand before even touching the starter.
Before you take anything apart, remove the OUT bolt on the pump and look inside. If you see it's full of rust, well then you know what to do. Also remove the front advance cover. It is held on by 2 T30 screws. If water got into your pump through the IN then this is the first place you will see problems. You can reuse the o-ring in there.
Good luck :)
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update -- I decided not to work on Rusty (78). I bought a battery and put it into Rudy (77) and eveything powered up so we'll be focusing on that one. It is an early model and was manufactured in 04/77. I'm saying this because of the flywheel mark.
Question: If it's hard to turn at the crank is that the compression and I assume it's a good thing?
Finding TDC: Should the lobes for #1 be equal in height? or is this relevant?
I took two pics of the markers, but don't know how to upload.
The first mark (or to the left of the mark below) is the "0". Can someone confirm that is the 6deg BEFORE TDC?
The second mark (to the right of the mark above) I have not seen on this site. It is not a stamp, but part of the flywheel cast. It is a "V" with the letter part removed leaving the inside of the V part cast in the flywheel. Is the centerline of this mark TDC?
I'm asking also because the cam lines up with the "0". and so now I'm not sure of anything ???
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The first description
http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/?action=view¤t=IMG_0079.jpg&newest=1 (http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/?action=view¤t=IMG_0079.jpg&newest=1)
The second description
http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/?action=view¤t=IMG_0078.jpg&newest=1 (http://s1013.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/?action=view¤t=IMG_0078.jpg&newest=1)
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Your first picture is TDC.
The lobes being pointed both up is just a reference to tell you that you have #1 at the top of its compression stroke, where it needs to be for TDC. That little "V" in the flywheel in your first picture, will disappear if you move the crank even the slightest. Following Vince's How-To with that mark as your crank TDC, and then making sure the came slot is perfectly horizontal.. Perfect cam/crank timing :)
I think you should get both running ;) Rusty and Rudy! I like it, do you have any pictures of them?
If you take your two links, and do them like this [img ] link [/img ] with no spaces after the word img, then it will post them in the post.
Also if it is hard to turn the engine at the crank, think you are fighting at least 400psi as you try and force the cylinder up on the compression stroke.. If it's really hard to turn, you have really good compression lol ;)
Lets get some pics ;)
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Thanks yall. I will be painting that notch in the morning. Now I'm back on tract except the rebuilt pump sitting on the shelf has blue dots all over it and the receipt says 1.6. I emailed Giles about a fix. So I'm going to time the existing pump and only change out the belt and tensioner. When it starts leaking I'll deal with it.
So, I've started pimping GP and ordered new ones from the recommended site and ripping out interior and copycatting Riddleyo on that (thanks man).
Ordered my window seals and had to offer up my first born. OMG! The price of staying dry...
My guy (Henry) at Gary Shelton in Bryan, TX (866-540-6311 toll free) is going to hook me up with everything else I need. Yall should try him; he ships anywhere. When I first called him about some parts for Rusty he knew the car and the original owner. He was there when she bought it in 1978!
Tried again to load pics and got the little box with an "X" in it. Dangit. Will be starting the visual diary if this works I'll load it all up.
Thanks,
Michele
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Well, I am 'practicing' as recommended so I have only changed out the belt and left everything original. Part of the reason is that I'm excited and want to hear it run and I don't want to do all this work if it's going to explode.
I have gotten to the TDC on the crank, cam, and IP. I have pics for you to see if that's good enough or not acceptable. Please let me know. The next time will be for real and forever.
Crank TDC:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0089.jpg)
Cam TDC:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0090.jpg)
IP TDC:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0091.jpg)
It finally dawned on me I can use the 1.6 pump as long as I time it accordingly so when the rain comes and goes this week I will replace IP, GP, tensioner, test injectors, etc.
Observations so far:
There was some oil pooled in the air filter housing.
There was hardly any oil in pan and black as night. Nothing milky though.
The fuel filter (see pic) had so much sludge in it I'm praying it didn't make it past that point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0094.jpg)
After draining tank should I blow out line from tank to filter?
And here are some of pics of what I have in Hutch:
Rusty:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0081.jpg)
Robin:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0080.jpg)
Rudy:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/af252/mstephenson_rusty/IMG_0082.jpg)
Thanks,
Michele
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Hello Rudy, Rusty, Robin and Michele,
When I suggested practicing I meant with the dial indicator in the pump.
Looking at your pictures it appears that you are a fair ways out. If you set the cam at TDC how far off is the TDC mark on the crank? The mark on the pump is not as relevant because it is fine tuned with the dial indicator at the end. Always remember to go in the direction of engine rotation (CW) when checking your marks.
It looks like it would run where it is, but it's not "right." You'll get it ;)
There was some oil pooled in the air filter housing. - normal
There was hardly any oil in pan and black as night. Nothing milky though. normal for it to be black as anything, not low though
The fuel filter (see pic) had so much sludge in it I'm praying it didn't make it past that point. fuel filter or oil filter?
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I know you meant the pump, but I am saturated and overwhelmed so it's baby steps until I can absorb and be proficient at what little I'm doing. :)
I was happy with results today as I completely lost TDC on crank and cam last night and the belt was off. So, I feel the pictures are a success for today at least.
So the IP is acceptable, but the crank and cam is not. I will work on that as well as the dial.
Yes, you read correctly. That sludge was in the FUEL filter. And lots of it. I imagine that screen is clogged as well. What should I do about the tank? Professional cleaning? Drain and additives?
...Onward through the fog...
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Michele, you have a wonderful collection of Bunny Rabbits.
Rusty is my favorite :)
Yes you can use the 1.6 pump, how many miles are on the pump? Older mileage pumps seem to like a little bit more of advance as they age. I have mine timed at 1.03mm or like 0.042". If I had it timed at the stock setting of like 0.90mm and w/e that is in Imperial... the car would not be happy. lol
Play around with the timing, start at stock and see how it does. I'm gonna bet though its gonna like it up around 0.95-1.00mm for an older non turbo pump.
Looks like your a pro at timing the VW IDI Diesel engine ;) Keep it up.
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Like "Burn" said, you are pretty close, but your cam timing could be better. Probably isn't out far enough to cause a collision, but not exactly right. You really need to find something to lock the end of the cam against the top of the head, loosen the bolt and move the cam gear (while keeping the crank where it is).
You DO have a Bentley manual, don't you?
Rick
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Yeah I think a 3" stanley door hinge was used to lock cams before. You should be able to do something like that and fill any gap with the appropriate feeler gauges.
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I think a 10 or 11mm wrench will also work for locking the cam.
You are well on your way to success. You're a smart guy for being cautious. The "I timed my engine and it doesn't run anymore" threads are all too common.
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You're a smart guy for being cautious. The "I timed my engine and it doesn't run anymore" threads are all too common.
Actually, you are a smart girl, I think. Anyway yeah, don't make your project become someone else's project. That's how I got my 91 Jetta for junk prices.
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Michele is a girl name to me, however I have seen weirder things. lol
You are practically the ideal woman, you are working on a VW lol. Can it get any better? :P
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You DO have a Bentley manual, don't you?
Rick
I have the Bentley.
;D
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You are practically the ideal woman, you are working on a VW lol. Can it get any better?
One that works on her own Ferrari?
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I don't much care for Ferrari's. Now if she was tearing down big blocks, adding supers, and pullin some 9s passes.. then it could be better. ;)
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1.6 pump is rebuilt and never been used. I think for my newbie sanity I am going to time eveything to what Bentley says "standard setting" until I feel comfortable with how everything runs.
And I am the IDEAL woman! ;) and I'm a good cook too.
You can thank my brother for all those nights in high school when he would come in and wake me up at 3am to tell me who he drag raced, what they did to his car, blah, blah, blah. 25 years later his knowledge is on the par of NHRA and NASCAR engine designers. He runs a 68 Mustang with a 351W with a Ron's toilet alcohol injection system and sheet metal intake and CHI heads (which are now getting ported again by someone very famous) on 10.5" slicks in the 1.8mile. His times are 5.80's and expected to be in the 5.60's after this porting.
Stangofnitro is his post name on youtube. If anyone is interested.
I have been talking to him about what I've been reading here and he wants to know if anyone has tried to drill out the oil holes in the 1.5 blocks. He is a gun drill machinist and will do it for them if there is enough material in the block.
I have pics of my new TDC's but I don't you guys will be satisified just yet. So third time will be the charm.
I also need to tighten everything up and run the crank around again clock wise. I have been going back and forth so I assume there is slack like Libbybapa is describing.
In Vince's how-to after he zero's out and returns to TDC his reading 0.026". For my own understanding does that mean the pump is retarded as it is?
Thanks everyone,
Michele
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I have been talking to him about what I've been reading here and he wants to know if anyone has tried to drill out the oil holes in the 1.5 blocks. He is a gun drill machinist and will do it for them if there is enough material in the block.
In Vince's how-to after he zero's out and returns to TDC his reading 0.026". For my own understanding does that mean the pump is retarded as it is?
Thanks everyone,
Michele
Not sure what oil holes your talking about ???
Inside the IP there's a plunger (one plunge or cycle per injection) and that's what the dial indicator is measuring, it's how far the plunger has lifted at TDC.
Without special/expensive equipment it's not really possible to measure how far before or after TDC it's really injecting.
Most people time these to .036-.040, too much and it'll be too clattery, not enough and it'll smoke (especially when cold), get worse mileage and not have as much power.
Have fun ;D
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I have pics of my new TDC's but I don't you guys will be satisified just yet. So third time will be the charm.
There is no margin for error with valve to crank timing. Basically, the head gasket is all the room there is between the valves and piston.
The IP lift reading you have is retarded. It will probably run there, but not very well. You COULD try it there and just start nudging the top of the IP towards the block (to advance it), but probably better to get closer to .040"
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Michele, in Vince's How-To where he has the pump timed to 0.026" is very retarded in pump timing. I just re-read his site about it, and it appears that engine was just sitting. So the pump was probably just thrown on and not timed. Timing it to 0.026" will most likely run, but I don't think it would be good to waste your time there. Time it to stock settings of 0.90mm (0.036" for you Americans lol).
work on cars and cook!? it really doesn't get any better ;)
Your brothers ride is seriously badass, dayummm.
Being cautious on this is the right thing to do, but I think your ready to go! :D
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In Vince's how-to after he zero's out and returns to TDC his reading 0.026". For my own understanding does that mean the pump is retarded as it is?
Yup... that's just an example of what it read the first time... I say "a bit low, as we'll see below" and then go on to list the factory settings *and* the generally accepted "performance" settings. ;)
I'll change the wording to "retarded" just to be clearer... although some people take "wow man, your timing is like so retarded" in a different way. ;D
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Vince, I'm not being critical of your site. I knew the answer, but just needed to hear it again the second time. Thank you for your site. I think it is very generous that so many are willing to share for the benefit of others.
Well, I started over today and went up to the point of moving the pump. It's amazing how fast it goes when you have red dots everywhere and a better methodology than the previous days.
So, my timing is retarded as well. 0.031". I did not preload the dial the 2mm as instructed since I don't know what that means. Will advance the pump tomorrow and probably go through the motions at least two more times to make sure I'm consistent and at the desired setting.
Beyond the screwdriver method is there another way to remove the stuck oil filter? >:(
Thanks again.
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Preloading the gauge means to insert it so that the dial reads roughly 2.00mm. It does not need to be exact. Preloading ensures that the gauge will not go below zero and give you inaccurate results.
That's not a very good description but hopefully it makes sense.
Regarding the oil filter
(http://myexercise4fitness.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/popeye.jpg)
or one of these known as boa straps.
(http://www.axminster.co.uk/images/products/MISBOA_l.jpg)
I've never had good luck with the actual oil filter wrenches.
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and failing that boa wrench, just drive a fat shaft screw driver through the housing and give it a whack to knock it loose. It will turn off easily once you break the seal.
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Preloading the gauge means to insert it so that the dial reads roughly 2.00mm. It does not need to be exact. Preloading ensures that the gauge will not go below zero and give you inaccurate results.
That's not a very good description but hopefully it makes sense.
In English-English; preloading simply means inserting the dial gauge so that the measuring finger is always being pushed in a little, by the pump's piston, and not floating in mid air when you are turning the engine/pump off the pump cam.
It can be any small amount, as you rezero the dial gauge when you've hit the low regions in between the injection points.
You are the looking for your magic value of 39 thou /1mm to show up on the dial gauge when your flywheel mark hits TDC. [or whatever value you want 8)]
If you get more or less than you are looking for, then this is when you loosen the pump and swing it until you are happy.
Then, before locking everything down, rotate engine by hand aa coule of turns and check dial reads what you want at TDC, and then also drop a big file into the cam slot to check cam to TDC as well...
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I have taken old timing belts and made a cut through them. Then they can be wrapped around an oil filter or anything and you can pull away :D. Cheap too
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that's what I do sometimes, the screw driver trick.. course it doesn't help when the PO puts the oil filter on like he was Lou Ferrigno... ;D
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Large channel locks work good too, they can pop the filter sometimes though.
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Just an update for everyone:
Thank you so much for helping with this timing exercise of mine !!! Also, diesel tastes very bad :P
I got the crank/cam perfect. And I mean that although there are no pics. I also got the pump timed to .040" (1.5 Pump). I know this is much advanced but I thought it would still work. I went through the exercise until repetition was produced at least a hand full of times in a row.
My fuel source is a one gallon can with clear line to filter, new filter, and clear line from filter to IP. Return line is also clear and goes into a milk jug.
I filled the IP with ATF and the fuel filter with diesel. Used a primer bulb (that doesn't really work well). I need to figure out a better way to purge the lines, clamp it and then insert onto pump.
But it won't start.
1. there is tons of air in the lines, but there is also diesel flow during the cranking process. and enough to make fire.
2. IMHO there is no fire. It sounds like it's just turning over and over and pushing fuel through.
I stuck a circuit tester on the GP relay/fuse? on the firewall and on the #4 strip and turned the key on. There was nothing.
So... tearing off the pump to the put the 1.6rebuilt on. Pimping GP. And we'll try this again.
Thanks, Michele
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Woah- I wouldn't give up on that IP yet until you fix the glow plugs. You really may not be able to tell anything without them working if your compression isn't all that great....you have to fix them anyway...
Rick
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Well, I misspoke. A charged battery goes a long way in starting a vehicle... oops
But that thing runs ROUGH! If I can get it stablized enough I will make video
I'm not sure a motor mount isn't busted. I thought it was going to come out of the car.
Me happy!!! ;D ;D ;D
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Without glow plugs, it's going to run rough. Does it smooth out after a couple of minutes of running?
Try pulling out the cold start knob and see if it helps..... What are you seeing about air bubbles in the lines?
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Well, I misspoke. A charged battery goes a long way in starting a vehicle... oops
But that thing runs ROUGH! If I can get it stablized enough I will make video
I'm not sure a motor mount isn't busted. I thought it was going to come out of the car.
Me happy!!! ;D ;D ;D
At low idle and especially if the timing's off they do buck around quite a bit. It wouldn't hurt to check the mounts anyways, the one by the timing belt has the shortest life and almost certainly is bad.
Is it smoking at idle?
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The mount by the timing belt is moving around by the inches. It will not idle for long. To keep it going the rpms need to be 1500-2000ish? and it never smoothes out.
Lots of smoke (more like burning fuel) coming out of the oil filler cap and the Oil light won't go off. It has new oil/filter.
No black smoke out the tail pipe. more like gray white
So I started up Robin and drove it around for comparison and that light went off right away and showed 4-5 bar on the gauge.
I am going to leave Rudy alone until I get Rusty running with the new pump and such. I know Rusty ran right (although much retarded) and see what happens.
Oi Vay!
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What does the smoke smell like? Antifreeze? :(
That "smoke" coming out the oil cap is from blowby, you should be able to hold your face a foot from it and not get soaked with oil mist. Can you look in the oil fill hole see the cam or is there a plastic thing in the way?
If the oil light won't go off then with the engine OFF and the key on, unplug the wire off the oil pressure sender on the tranny end of the head. The oil light should go off.
If it stays on you have a wiring problem, if it goes off then either the sender is bad or it's really telling the truth.
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Was reading about oil light and rabbitman's comments. Light goes out when switch is disconnected. PO had it only a couple months between original owner and me. And just visited with original owner and he said it was running good when he sold it.
So, low/no oil and oil light and horrible running makes for sad days for Rudy :'(. The bro is going to come over and confirm DOA.
I believe my next evercise will be getting the window seals in and working on sunroof and interior while I decide what to do next.
This concludes the timing exercise for this thread. I want to thank everyone for their input and insights. I have learned so much and overcome a fear by learning through it. I have to say the only other fear of this magnitude I have is dropping a dash and seeing all those wires and wondering where they go. :)
For any newbie reading this thread these are my observations:
...READ, READ, READ. I read a lot, but wasn't alway sure of what it meant. Worked on the car and went back and read this thread and others (How-to, etc) again to confirm what I had done. New things were revealed that were posted all along.
...PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE: Repetition of results. What took me days to achieve was condensed down to minutes once practiced and understood.
...Proper tools; not that you can't improvise. I used a chuck from my grinder as my cam lock (I will have the bro measure and get me a piece of stock that fits perfectly so I don't have to shim anymore), a deep socket for my IP lock, channel locks with rubber hose covers for my cam holder since I didn't have a 12" crescent (I will probably get a different tool for this next time)
...Mark everything. I painted the flywheel at TDC. I made marks on IP sprocket at it's TDC. I even painted the crank bolt that was closest to TDC.
Thanks again everyone.
Michele