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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: dennis on March 29, 2010, 12:28:12 pm
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What is safe and what is not. I do mostly interstate driving 65-85mph. What is considered a safe sustained temp up-hill at high speeds.
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Im gonna get hit with the book for this one im sure, but I start to back out at about 1250F.
With a N/A mechanical lifter head (ducks)
;)
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I think i have read these motors can withstand prolonged use in and around the 10-1050F area. Anything really higher then 1250F on your TD motor.. and your lookin at starting your own metal forgery ;)
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I've hit 1300F for a very short time but I don't like going over 1150F.
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there before or after turbo numbers i've hit 1200+ my probe is after the turbo no squirters ether
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there before or after turbo numbers i've hit 1200+ my probe is after the turbo no squirters ether
Most people put the probe before the turbo.
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I put my probe after the turbo is because I didnt want it to trash the turbo if it broke off. I add 200 deg. to be safe.
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Ive knocked on 1450* many times....hehe...I'm not saying it's safe...but I have done it 5 or 8 times.... :o
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I put my probe after the turbo is because I didnt want it to trash the turbo if it broke off.
That won't happen unless you hit it with something.
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I put my probe after the turbo is because I didnt want it to trash the turbo if it broke off. I add 200 deg. to be safe.
do you do this 1-10 seconds before it happens? the lag time is huge, and temp variance hard to quantify.
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Iv got my probe in the manifold and have hit (pegged) my guage at 1500. I'll have a red mark at 1200 today. Also intercooler today. MAybe find an ole nitrous fogger, and start pumping some water, and alcohol at the intercooler inlet. Summer is coming. Got my guage off e-bay. The brand is BullyDog. Seems to react pretty fast.
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I have a k03 turbo. there's really no lag on my car
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there before or after turbo numbers i've hit 1200+ my probe is after the turbo no squirters ether
your engine was in pre-meltdown stage then.
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I have a k03 turbo. there's really no lag on my car
no lag in your boos, I mean lag in your gauge as the snail has to heat up before a real reading can take place.
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I have my peak warning at 1400'F and the Probe in the manifold, since Sat. ive hit the buzzer a few times. The turbo setup has been running since this last weekend. Seems I dont see much over 1000'F on hills. It takes mine a full pull to 3rd gear to hit 1400'F though, always followed by a good cool down.
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I have a k03 turbo. there's really no lag on my car
no lag in your boos, I mean lag in your gauge as the snail has to heat up before a real reading can take place.
...and the bigger issue is that the turbo is a variable heat remover. Depending on how hard it's working it will extract varying amounts of heat out of the exhaust stream (which it turns in to compressor energy) so measuring the temp post-turbo will result in a misleading figure that varies in terms of how much it's misleading you. ;)
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I can hit 1200 pretty easy if i'm going up a hill....and that's with a 2.25 down pipe and exhaust system...i tend to back out of it at 1100-1200, my new Giles pump definitely is putting out more fuel than stock
Got to get an intercooler soon.
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My brothers AAZ regularly hit 1600 pre turbo. He did throw a rod through the block though, not sure if it is related or not. His head did have cracks from the precups to valves. Again, not sure if it was related. The car also ran WVO at one point in it's life.
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The authors of Volkswagen's SAE paper on the 1.6TD ran their tests to 820 C, or 1500 F, pre-turbo.
From http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/vwtdsae.shtml (http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/vwtdsae.shtml)
Figure 50 shows lines of constant turbine inlet temperature and Figure 51 turbine exit temperature. The maximum turbine inlet temperature, which is difficult to measure, is approximately 820 C.
(http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/figure_50.jpg)
(http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/SAE/figure_51.jpg)
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My brothers AAZ regularly hit 1600 pre turbo. He did throw a rod through the block though, not sure if it is related or not. His head did have cracks from the precups to valves. Again, not sure if it was related. The car also ran WVO at one point in it's life.
Although it's not yet really melting into puddles, the Inconel alloy of the turbine wheel starts to deform at around 1600o F, so that temperature can potentially can give a whole new meaning to the term, "blowing chunks"!
IMHO the rod through the block is usually oil starvation combined with over-revving. Personally observed that on a bone-stock 1.5L n.a. that was over-revved on a downshift!
J.R.
SoCal
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My intercooled Eco Diesel reached 804°C during a long pull up a hill in 5th gear, measured with pre-turbo EGT probe & instrument from Auber.
What can I do to lower the EGT?
- will a larger diameter exhaust system help? Still running original cat & exhaust from 1991.
- the original K14 turbo produces relatively hot air at 20 PSI, will a T3 turbo be better?
- washer fluid injection post-IC?
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What can I do to lower the EGT?
- will a larger diameter exhaust system help? Still running original cat & exhaust from 1991.
- the original K14 turbo produces relatively hot air at 20 PSI, will a T3 turbo be better?
- washer fluid injection post-IC?
Yes, doing any/all of those will help your EGTs.
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750-850 F at highway cruise, will go as high as 1200 or so up a hill without downshifting and low boost.
Non-squirted also, but Swaintech coated.
Stock VW T3, 2.5" turbo-back, non-intercooled and stock boost levels right now.
Fueling is, eh, "a bit more than stock". :D
Brendan
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I dropped about 200 degrees after installing a small intercooler from an old Mercury Capri. 70 mph part load.