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Engine Specific Info and Questions => TDI Engine -General Info => Topic started by: ShoulderMan on March 23, 2010, 11:45:12 am
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does anyone know the rod length of the 1.2l tdi or have a spec sheet
Thanks
-Ron
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Found it here.
http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=18691.0 (http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=18691.0)
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline three cylinder (R3/I3) Turbocharged Direct Injection (TDI) turbodiesel; 1,199 cubic centimetres (73.2 cu in), bore x stroke: 79.5 by 80.5 millimetres (3.13 in × 3.17 in), stroke ratio: 0.99:1 - 'square engine', 399.6 cc per cylinder
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Thank you much, great find.
Now, I need to know the differences between the possibilities of 3 different engines.
there are three sets of 1.2l specs, each page you listed has a bore and storke different.
page one is 1.2l r3 pd tdi 3l 76.5 x 86.4 1191cc 72.7cid
page two is 1.2l r3 12v tdi 79.5 x 80.5 1199cc 73.2cid
I found bore and stroke at 76.5 x 86.7 1191cm3
edited...
after a closer look, the 79.5x80.5 is the newer 2008+ versions of the 1.2l
I dont know if that will give me the rod length I am lloking for, but ill find out soon enough.
thanks
-Ron
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unfortuantaly i still need the length of the connecting rod,
I have a part number of
045198401
if this helps.
thanks
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build a 1.6l tdi, but i need to know the rod length so i can get the proper data to come up with a c/r and storke that will work
unfortunately the piston and rod used for the 1.2l tdi are shaped differently from the rest of the tdi's, so ill have to make my own
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So cost break down:
(lets assume mtdi for both options so the pump cost is similar for both options, either adapt the tdi pump to aneroid pin boost fueling or find a LR pump; I see it as very similar)
1.9 tdi option complete engine cost - $2000-3000ish? (let me know if i'm wrong) done and done.
1.6 idi conversion option - pistons (how much are they actually?), complete head including injectors, injector lines valve cover etc can be found, or sum of the parts, for $750-1000, probably cheaper.
So with no labor costs (because building it would be a labor of love, right?) you'd have to spend over a grand on the pistons to make it not "worth it". The difference could be as high as $2250 if my costing is off.
Who among us can really say we do all this just to save money, I can't. (we'd all be driving hinda civics) Ok i'm sure Andrew will. :) Cool factor is one thing but I don't see this possibility as wasted money, am I wrong?
I say go for it!!
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I agree with most of it,
though i already have possession of everything but the pistons, and the injection pump. right now with all the of inofrmation that I have, the piston in the 1.2l tdi will be 7-thousands of an inch higher than the 1.6l, at tdc. not much, but enough to hit the vaves if everything else is off as well. I already have someone who can build the pistons, which is why i needed to know if the c/r was in the pistons or else where (head gasket). I want to get the compressio to 17.5:1 that will allow for future changes, I also live in Arizona, so I dont have to worry about the cold weather starting problems
ive read lots of posts about the idea of a 1.6l tdi, and a lot of people say it will work, but no one has gotten the parts to make it work, nor have they build one that runs... so it cant hurt to try and find the actuall numbers if your gonna try to do it right the first time.
i figure that if im gonna go all the way with this, I dont want to blow something up while im trying to start it the first time, becuase like you said, its not cheap. but it will be cool. 8)
as far as mpg goes, no one really knows, maybe it will increase 20% maybe not, but theres only one way to find out. everyone says buy the tdi cause you get so much better mpgs, then why not a little more for a 1.6l or 68mpg for a 1.2l.
if I can get the pistons made, and everything looks like a go, ill post an official 1.6l tdi thread where ill post all of the progress fron the start.
as for the pistons, even if someone did buy a set, or even one, they would not work because of the different shape they and the rod share to connect togeather.
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I already have someone who can build the pistons, which is why i needed to know if the c/r was in the pistons or else where (head gasket). I want to get the compressio to 17.5:1 that will allow for future changes, I also live in Arizona, so I dont have to worry about the cold weather starting problems
If you live at high altitude though that'll effectively lower compression and make starting harder even though it is DI.
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i can donate a M-TDi pump (11mm, same as Ruben's) to the cause at cost if it means this project will go ahead, i also get jobber discount at the dealer for new parts.
Cheers
Ryan
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the 7 thousands of an inch was measured in the shop vs the spec sheet on the 1.2l tdi piston,
here is the copy of the pdf found on page two of idi to di thread
http://www.katech.re.kr/bas/sta/Upload/Board/TBL_ANAL_PART_000396_1.pdf (http://www.katech.re.kr/bas/sta/Upload/Board/TBL_ANAL_PART_000396_1.pdf)
the reason you cant swap piston and rod is because they are a trapezoidal fit, not normal. (ill get you that picture as soon as i can)
I also live in Phoenix, arizona, no prob with altitude, just heat. (no a/c)
I think i have figured out the reasons as to why no one is able to get any used parts from this engine.
because of the streach bolts that run all the way through it (head to main bearing) if you remove the crank shaft, the block deforms out of shape, rendering the block usless, so there is not too much you can do with the block to strengthen it, only replace it at that point.
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Ill take you up on that as soon as i get the pistons made, installed and everything looks like a go. Thank you 8)
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Are these 1.2's PD's? Guess that would be the same as me trying to fit a PD piston on mt 1Z rods...
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the 7 thousands of an inch was measured in the shop vs the spec sheet on the 1.2l tdi piston,
here is the copy of the pdf found on page two of idi to di thread
http://www.katech.re.kr/bas/sta/Upload/Board/TBL_ANAL_PART_000396_1.pdf (http://www.katech.re.kr/bas/sta/Upload/Board/TBL_ANAL_PART_000396_1.pdf)
the reason you cant swap piston and rod is because they are a trapezoidal fit, not normal. (ill get you that picture as soon as i can)
I also live in Phoenix, arizona, no prob with altitude, just heat. (no a/c)
I think i have figured out the reasons as to why no one is able to get any used parts from this engine.
because of the streach bolts that run all the way through it (head to main bearing) if you remove the crank shaft, the block deforms out of shape, rendering the block usless, so there is not too much you can do with the block to strengthen it, only replace it at that point.
Is it possible to get the 1.2L TDI piston spec sheet?
Do you have find more information about the rod length?
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Some 1.9 diesel engine conrod specs.
1Y IDI NA = 150mm long, gud pin 24mm
AAZ IDI TD = 144mm long, gud pin 26mm
1Z TDI = 144mm long, gud pin 26mm
I investigated a longer conrod rod for the petrol engines a while back. Here is some more info on CGTI.
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222440
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I know nothing about it, but what about VR6 rods? Are they even close to what we have? I only ask as I have friend that is building a stroker gas engine out of about 5 VW/Audi engines and he is using VR6 rods to make it all work.
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Some 1.9 diesel engine conrod specs.
1Y IDI NA = 150mm long, gud pin 24mm
AAZ IDI TD = 144mm long, gud pin 26mm
1Z TDI = 144mm long, gud pin 26mm
I investigated a longer conrod rod for the petrol engines a while back. Here is some more info on CGTI.
http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=222440
ABA has 159mm length, and a 22mm wrist pin.
how come the diesels have SHORTER RODS than the mk3 2.0 ABA?
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probably shorter rods for a longer stroke but keeping the same deck height?
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probably shorter rods for a longer stroke but keeping the same deck height?
dur de dur..
your right..
the TDI has a 95.5mm crank, not 90mm like the ABA.
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Different rod lengths and pin sizes for for the 1Y and AAZ are probably down to the turbo pistons being more substantial to cope with boost.
ABA like the other 1984cc 82.5 x 92.8 gasser tall blocks (ABF 16v and 2E, AGG, ADY 8v) use a 159mm long rod and a 21mm pin.
Most of the gasser short blocks including 1595cc 81 x 77.4mm, 1781cc 81 x 86.4mm and 1984cc 82.5 x 92.8mm use a 144mm long rod with a 20mm pin. Some 1781cc 20vTs use a 144mm rod with a 19mm pin.
Earlier engines use a smaller bigend / crankpin journal.
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Does anyone got more information about this rod length?
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Nope
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My local garage just replaced a 3 cylinder TDI engine in a Polo. It looks like a shorter PD engine judging by the cam cover.
Apparently it had been run with a duff injector that eventually filled the sump with diesel till it went runaway and boom.
If the old engine does not need to go back as an exchange I will try to grab it for dissection.
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My local garage just replaced a 3 cylinder TDI engine in a Polo. It looks like a shorter PD engine judging by the cam cover.
Apparently it had been run with a duff injector that eventually filled the sump with diesel till it went runaway and boom.
If the old engine does not need to go back as an exchange I will try to grab it for dissection.
thats the 1.4 PD tdi , as you said looks like a cut down 1.9 , had the chance of a 1.4 tdi engine a good one to ,then looked at it and its a pd you can keep that junk .
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There is a 1.5 idi that's has been converted to a tdi with all factory vw parts.
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There is a 1.5 idi that's has been converted to a tdi with all factory vw parts.
Can we have more information on these conversion?