VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: mattmey on November 15, 2005, 12:42:22 pm
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Anyone have a good source for Garrett turbo parts. My wastegate (#7 in pic) has rotted away due to the winters in NY. and is now not functioning. This would be for an 83 Jetta TD.
(http://members.chello.nl/y.timmer1/vwtc01_b.JPG)
Thanks,
Matt
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I didn't even know that was possible
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I do carry rebuild, upgrade, and some replacement parts for VW Diesel turbochargers, but unfortunately the Garrett wastegate AFAIK is not available as a separate part.
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Jake,
What would you suggest?
I am going to add an intercooler so would it be worth it to just add a blow off valve and block off the wastegate? I think this motor has a blow-off valve in the intake manifold as well, but an aftermarket one is probably a lot more reliable.
Or I probably could band-aid the housing so it would work.
Thanks,
Matt
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Jake,
What would you suggest?
I am going to add an intercooler so would it be worth it to just add a blow off valve and block off the wastegate? I think this motor has a blow-off valve in the intake manifold as well, but an aftermarket one is probably a lot more reliable.
Or I probably could band-aid the housing so it would work.
Thanks,
Matt
I would buy a whole new (or used) turbo. Or, at the very least the turbine housing off of one. Diesels do not need blow-off valves. That factory pop valve is a safety feature for the engine, nothing else. I eliminated mine.
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That factory pop valve is a safety feature for the engine, nothing else. I eliminated mine.
I agree, Mike. Not only did I eliminate the waste gate, but I also removed the intake's blowoff valve. Maximum boost is set by fueling.
And before anyone has a heart attack, I took a look at my Ford and Cat diesels, and the Duramax of my buddy. None have WGs or BOVs. Good enough for them...good enough for me! :D
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how are you adjusting fueling?
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Matt - Replacing the turbo with a new, rebuilt, or good used one as VWMike suggests is probably your safest bet. You could bolt-on either a 1.6lTD KKK K24 turbo or a 1.6lTD Garrett directly. A good used one would be cheapest (and can be rebuilt by yourself with one of my kits.) Purchasing a brand new or a professionally rebuilt turbocharger are other options besides just a used one. Or maybe you could find a 1.6lTD Garrett turbo that died of a different cause, that you could get a wastegate off of for cheap and swap it onto yours.
The "custom" options are: adding an external wastegate (perhaps using a EGR equipped 1.6lTD exhaust manifold as a starting point), which would surely cost more than a good used turbo unless you do the fabrication work yourself, and I don't know how much better it would be (it would be novel though!) Or, if you feel up to fabricating a repair to your wastegate somehow to save some $, that may work well but it depends where it is broken and what kind of repair you are able to accomplish. If you do any of the custom stuff, take pics and share on the board how it goes. :)
If you feel like running lots of boost and either don't need this thing to be reliable or have $ to spend now to cool the engine down and keep tabs on its internal temperatures, you could get some extra power. You may be able to rig your broken wastegate shut (or you could always weld the wastegate valve head to it's seat to shut it. :twisted: ) Without an external wastegate, this would cause lots of boost pressure and cylinder pressure (which could be hard on head gaskets, especially if you let it boost before the engine is warmed up - metal head gaskets help), also extra backpressure (which could be hard on exhaust manifold gaskets), and high intake air and combustion chamber temperatures (an intercooler would help with both). Excessive internal engine temperatures can potentially cause very expensive internal engine damage. If you turned up the fueling and the boost without an intercooler and with the stock exhaust, you'd almost certainly have a reliability problem if the pistons didn't quickly melt down. I would advise being careful about jumping into this route, unless you have a lot of $ to dump a lot of performance parts needed to make it reliable, or just don't care if it breaks. If you do this a pyrometer is adviseable to keep tabs on the internal engine temperatures, stock 1.6lTD peak pre-tubine EGTs which I'd advise not exceeding if reliability is important, is 1500 deg F.