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General Information => General => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on February 02, 2010, 10:36:01 pm
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I pulled the diesel out of its winter hibernation early to get a jump start on some of the work needed to be done as it is super slow at work, and i have spent a few days on my butt. I slapped the plates from my car on it, and drove it around all day yesterday it did surprisingly well for 900k and 50hp. Just a few minor issues really..
When I parked it a few months ago the brakes were a little hard to push like manual brakes, i figured it was due to the to rust on the rotors for sittin for three years.. however yesterday when i pulled it out the brakes worked really well (still felt a little rusty rotor like) but not the same as needing to push your foot through the floor to stop it. They were fine for the first half of my trip and all was well, but after parking it for a few hours and returning to it for the drive home.. they were back to being solid as anything. On the drive home the first application of the brakes felt like there was vacuum there to power them, but the next push of them resulted in hard brakes again.. so i assume it is either the vacuum pump.. or.. the connection at the booster seems a little whack... I will try and see if I can't seal the booster or something.. I am sure it is the problem.
Lets talk power. It's peppy and has a great amount of low down torque.. but not much up top at all :( sadly. I made a pass on someone in 4th gear doing 55mph (just before governor) with a fully loaded car :P.. but she needs a little more Eh!? :) I was wondering about the governor mod, I have read all about it on mannnny forums across this introweb. However what I was wondering was this... Stock governor cuts fueling at 2800rpm right? so if you take out this "governorship" and allow the engine to have full fueling at and above 3000, would the engine be able to reach say 4500rpm in 5th gear? or would there simply be not enough torque in the engine to power it that far? because that would be 180km/h lol how about a more feasible engine speed? 3600rpm? would there be enough power after the governor mod, exhaust and intake work to achieve and sustain 36-3800rpm? because that would be 150km/h :P and as fast as I would EVER need to go.. I would think that 3700 should be very attainable wouldn't you say?
Also I have been trying to think of ways to do an intake setup.. I had a crazy idea in my mind, to do a littttle hood scoop right in front of the grills on the hood for the rain tray... and just run no front cover on my intake, and just have the filter there sucking fresh air in from the scoop? far fetched idea, but an idea nonetheless. I was also thinking of cutting out the center hole on the stock intake box and running a bigger 2.5-3" duct up beside the rad on the passenger side.. Has anyone actually looked on the inside of of an mk1 n/a intake? the air goes in right at the center and then has to go up to the top of the manifold to go back down and around the back of it.. what were they thinking? they really fixed that design with the mk2 ones that go in and straight down to the cylinders.. Not much upgrades for the intake really is there.. Other then slapping on a gasser one.
Now for the exhaust. I will definitely be going the hollowed out toilet bowl idea for sure, just I can't decide what size to go and then where to dump the exhaust.. more than likely go with a 2.25".. then I run in to the problem of where to dump it and what type of muffler system to use.. a normal restrictive muffler will kind of be redundant when your trying to reduce restrictions right? lol Maybe some sort of cherry bomb turbo or something.. Now to dump it right in front of the driver back wheel or go over the axle and dump it there? I drive a gasser 8v with a cherry bomb right off the down pipe and before the shifter and then it dumps before the tire.. So I am no stranger to the drone, and I think there will be less with a muffler that is not a glass pack lol. I guess I just really don't want the hastle of going over the axle really ;)
What are ya'll thoughts on these little quirks and quarks? :P
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Jeeeez look at how long that is! Starting to remind myself of Maxfax and his boring long-winded-ness ;)
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Thanks buddy!! :P Here's another dose of it!
As far as your brakes.. It does sound like a vacuumesq problem.. Do you have the rotary or diaphragm pump?? Rotary pumps typically last forever, the diaphragm not so much.. Make sure you got no leaks in the line bwteen the pump and booster.. There is also a check valve in the plumbing (on the pump for the rotary, in the line for the other) make sure that is working.. IF all looks good to this point, blame the booster next..
Now for power, governor mod is glorious! 4500 RPM is 5th is probably pushing it though, pretty much the simple lack of torque.. I can attain about 3900 in 5th -- eventually.. That's with an ACH trans and 185/70/13's ... And not a lot of extra weight in the car.. I have the modded toilet bowl with 2" pipe and a very short glass pack.. I have the opening on the air box opened up to about 3" with a tube going right beside the radiator and behind the grill..
I've also toyed with the idea of a hood scoop just in front of the rain tray and plumbed to the intake.. My biggest worry would be water/snow getting in there.. If you look at alot of the vintage hood scoops they had some means for the water to be caught and drained before hitting the filter... I'm not saying this can;t be done or won;t work, but you'll want to address that.. I opted to have the "Ram Air" (LOL) behind the grill.. It's lower than the intake and so far no water issues...
On to exhaust.. I had 2.25 on one of the rabbits with a turbo muffler.. And the current has 2" with a glass pack.. Power is identical between them.. THe one with the muffler is slightly quieter but still noisy when it's winding out.. The only reason I went with smaller pipe on my silver bunny was for additional clearance over the axle.. The glass pack was just me being cheap.. If I had to do it over I might opt for a turbo muffler on it...
Where you have it exit is totally up to you.. Going over the axle is a bit more challenging.. I opted to send it out the back for the additional ground clearance.. That and since I have a 4 door, exiting it out the side is too close the back window and pretty much a NO NO for the annual inspection..
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My jetta has the 5 speed and it isn't going yet, but the flat red bunny was a 4 speed. After I did the gov mod, had 2.5 inch exhaust, and the ram air intake on the rabbit it would pull until redline and bury the speedo... I think it will have the torque is what I am saying. I had the 175/70/13s on too.
No clue on brakes as I usually am trying to get it to go, not stop ;D
On my flat red rabbit when I did the ram air I put a really big woman's set of panty hose over the end and let it come back into the pipe about a foot or so. I never had any issues with bugs or water. It wouldn't have helped much if I had hit a bird like I did in the GTI though.
As long as I had a muffler, in most cases it was a cherry bomb, the intake was louder than the exhaust. After modding it got louder but different since it was in the grill, so it was a different tone and better.
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Haha! yes! I knew you'd comment Brett ;)
I have heard many a discussion on vacuum pumps, and have no clue how to decipher the two apart from each other.. lol Does it help if you know the engine is an 81? I know they are different between my 81 engine and the 91 engine, but i don't which is which, you know how it goes.. I hope it is just a leak in the line.. a simple easy fix would be nice eh? (when it is it ever simple though..) Without the check valve working in proper order.. does it mess things up?
The governor mod does sound super glorious. what about 4500 in 4th? then slipping in to 5th at 3400 and riding fifth from 90-100mph.. Pretty much as fast as i would ever need to go :P 160km/h.. not much use after that lol I guess it's not really top speed I'm too worried about.. more so the ability to go from 50-70mph to pass is what I'm really worried about. if its not doable.. no biggie.. this engine will have to wait for when i get it a turbo ;) Lucas, what did your speedo end at? I think mine goes up to 85-90 something like that..
Hood scoop is very far-fetched idea, and will most likely be sucking in all sorts of crap in and not really being that beneficial eh? I like the idea of boring out the intake box and running a 3" tube to beside the grill. With Lucas' setup of a pantyhose in there to catch some crud :P
I like the idea of having a 2" exhaust for ease and cheaper pipe.. and will most likely run a cheapo Canadian tire special cherry bomb turbo or the likes.. may even be a big spender and get it something nice lol. Yeah i was driving it the other day with out the front cover on and just the filter.. you could hear it in the cabin, sounded real nice until it hit the de-fueling point :( lool
I do not have to pass it by any sort of annual inspection, or anything like that after it passes a safety inspection.. it never has to be looked at ever again for the rest of its life. Gotta love Ontario eh LOL. I run a side exit now, and it does not exit from under the car so it is a bit droney.. i think if i actually made the exhaust with no leaks (lol) and exit from under the car it would sound delicious...
3" Intake, 2" Exhaust, Cherry Bomb Turbo/Glasspack, Governor Mod (w/close to solid shimmed Main spring), Spinning 4100rpm and doing 170km/h (on a closed course ;)), check vacuum line for leaks, investigate check valve for brake booster.
sounds FUN!
Oooh ALSO! the gear shifter is all over the place. 1st and 5th gear are near impossible to find unless you slam it to either side and up to kind of get momentum behind the shifter rods i guess.. I have never had to deal with this, ;D thumbs up for a new learning aspect to mk1 cars :P Is it a case of adjusting or replacing all the bushings? It's pretty bad lol there is no detent for 5th or 1st and 2nd gear.. just as much movement in neutral as in gear lol. What to do boys? lol
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as far as the shifter goes, get a rebuild kit with all the bushings and relay shafts.
pretty cheap, and will turn it into a new car for sure.
the vaccum pumps look totally different from one onother, the diaphragm ones have a hose that goes back to the block, and the vane ones do not.
usually however, when the diaphragm pumps quit, they just quit, no slowly getting worse, simply no vacuum.
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as far as the shifter goes, get a rebuild kit with all the bushings and relay shafts.
pretty cheap, and will turn it into a new car for sure.
the vaccum pumps look totally different from one onother, the diaphragm ones have a hose that goes back to the block, and the vane ones do not.
usually however, when the diaphragm pumps quit, they just quit, no slowly getting worse, simply no vacuum.
i bet your problem is your brake booster. mine used to work intermittently, and after about 4 vacuum pumps, and then taking all of them and building a KNOWN WORKING unit, and swapping it in with the same results. i finally swapped the brake booster. after that it would lift the ass end up off the ground on a good hard stop.
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after that it would lift the ass end up off the ground on a good hard stop.
Dear lord! I can only imagine what that would look like... lol!
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Yeah the speedo quit somewhere about 85mph, but would still wrap a little. That was the 4 speed. It didn't have much from 55-65, but right around 70 is when it would start to get with it.
The panty hose was a temp setup that I never upgraded. I am tight, so I never bought the outerwares for my 3" pvc. they are common in ATV/dirtbike dealers and there are generic companies as well. They do the same thing, but are designed for it and washable and tougher...but they are usually 20.00 so Pantyhose I went.
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after that it would lift the ass end up off the ground on a good hard stop.
Dear lord! I can only imagine what that would look like... lol!
im sure the people in the motor home pulling out in front of me thought it was the coolest thing they had ever seen, any other driver/car would have trashed the whole side of their brand new motor home. so it was either try and stop and risk locking up the brakes and totaling my car, or just total the car anyway from any of the other options i had on the road at the time.
it wasnt like my car was far off the ground tho, maybe a few inches, a foot at most. not like it was doing a hardcore nose wheelie or anything.
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as far as the shifter goes, get a rebuild kit with all the bushings and relay shafts.
pretty cheap, and will turn it into a new car for sure.
the vacuum pumps look totally different from one another, the diaphragm ones have a hose that goes back to the block, and the vane ones do not.
usually however, when the diaphragm pumps quit, they just quit, no slowly getting worse, simply no vacuum.
Is the rebuild kit for the shifter you speak of? $18 CDN not bad..
(http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/W01331632336.JPG)
Or this one from GAP for $18 USD.. also not bad, and comes with new rods as well.
(http://www.germanautoparts.com/images/7607a6e2030303839373137313/f)
The 81 engine in question has the vacuum pump that has a tube go back to the engine.. Anyone know if I can take the rotary one from the '91 engine and slap it in place instead? and just block of the port on the block from the diaphragm one?
i bet your problem is your brake booster. mine used to work intermittently, and after about 4 vacuum pumps, and then taking all of them and building a KNOWN WORKING unit, and swapping it in with the same results. i finally swapped the brake booster. after that it would lift the ass end up off the ground on a good hard stop.
It is very likely it is the booster that has crapped out, but it is also likely the diaphragm pump has crapped as well.. it is most likely the original one on the engine and has at least 500,000 miles on it (odo stopped at 435k 12 years ago).. and has been sitting the last three-four years.. it is very possible they are both gone. In which case! Where can I get another booster? Mk2's? or only mk1's?
after that it would lift the ass end up off the ground on a good hard stop.
Dear lord! I can only imagine what that would look like... lol!
Thanks for contributing Ed, Edd, and Eddy (did you ever watch that show? LMAO)
Yeah the speedo quit somewhere about 85mph, but would still wrap a little. That was the 4 speed. It didn't have much from 55-65, but right around 70 is when it would start to get with it.
The panty hose was a temp setup that I never upgraded. I am tight, so I never bought the outerwares for my 3" pvc. they are common in ATV/dirtbike dealers and there are generic companies as well. They do the same thing, but are designed for it and washable and tougher...but they are usually 20.00 so Pantyhose I went.
Lucas, I take it you had either the GP or GY 0.71 5th 4 spds? Or was it one of the GC's with a .91 or .97 (depending on date of manuf.) 5th? One of the .71 would have put you at 2700 at 70mph.. probably why it picked up and went :P 55mph was only 2100 :O Super Cruiser!
I think i like the idea of plumbing an intake to up beside the rad, maybe even put a cone on the end of it and do away with the paper filter in the box.. ?
it wasnt like my car was far off the ground tho, maybe a few inches, a foot at most. not like it was doing a hardcore nose wheelie or anything.
It helped that much eh Kev? wow, that's crazy where you get your booster?
Thanks guys! :D
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yep, the vane pump will swap right in.
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Oooooooo I want a shift kit! :D
If you shorten the lengths of those arms it's like putting on a short shift kit.
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yep, the vane pump will swap right in.
the oil pump might be the old style and have too short of a nose. take the vac pump out of your engine and make sure the one going in is the same style drive, and that the depth of the drive slot is the same. early and later motors have different length oil pump shafts. just make sure its the same before you swap it in and start it up and scatter the bottom end because the oil pump wasnt turning.
and about the brake booster, it came out of one of my parts rabbits. one with alot less miles on it. my blue(black) rabbit is also a 500k+ mi rig, and it had its fair share of problems when i got it. my gti also has a bad master cylinder, one circuit fades clear away if you hold the brake pedal down for more than a few seconds at a time.
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No No...you want this shifter stuff. I have had this link saved for about a year now...
http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ShiftLinkage.shtml (http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ShiftLinkage.shtml)
Alot to read there.
Also I never looked to se what I had for the 4 speed. It did have 1-4 on the knob, but that could have been swapped. It had decent power at 55 in forth but not like I wanted. I remember you "could" take 3rd to about 65-67 before it sounded like I had better shift before it scats. In 3rd at those speeds it was actually what I would consider fast. Better than the 83 GTI I have now at those speeds...the GTI can't do those speeds in 3rd though.
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What year was it Lucas? For the three different combination's you could have gotten in a Mk1, you could have been turning 3800, 4100, or 4700 doing 65mph in 3rd ;)
Thanks for the link by the way on the shifters. I was reading that like two weeks ago! and I never bookmarked it! VERY GOOD READ! However I cannot decipher what the hell I was reading at some parts.. very bad setup on his site ;) What exactly would I order from there?
Now what are my options for say... deleting power brakes? will it still be able to stop the jetta? I mean i have a 67 mercury with manual 4 wheel drums.. and it seems to stop that 3500lb car alright. I have heard something like needing to get a Bus master cylinder? Like how much vacuum is needed for it to properly run the power brakes?
Thanks for all the good info guys!
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it was an 84 and when you hit 70 in 3rd you could feel the vibrations in the pedal :o
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An 84 eh? They came with the GY (3+E 8/82-7/84) 4.17 3.45 1.75 1.06 0.71
70mph in 3rd gear with stock size tires (175-75-13), you would be turning 4500rpm! hot damn! lol
What do I need from that Missing Linkz site Lucas?
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IIRC the vac pump is supposed to pull minimally about 15 in/hg of vac (or whatever you metric people use) at 750 RPM.. With no vac in the system it should be able to pull this in under 15 seconds from startup... Upon shutdown it should not drop more than 5 in/hg within a minute..
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just got confirmation that the vacuum pumps will swap over without a problem. Some guy pulled up vacuum pump part numbers and it only listed two for the rotary style, 1980-1992 and then everything post-1992 for the other one. Good to know. Swap it over and hopefully that does away with the brake problems eh :P
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An 84 eh? They came with the GY (3+E 8/82-7/84) 4.17 3.45 1.75 1.06 0.71
70mph in 3rd gear with stock size tires (175-75-13), you would be turning 4500rpm! hot damn! lol
What do I need from that Missing Linkz site Lucas?
He has a bunch of different ones but I am going with the teflon ones that are supposed to be best. Since I have a 3" DP and it will be close I want it to be the most heat resistant...You could just buy one of everything he has. Oh I am also going with the weighted shifter rod thing. I could make a weight and hose clamp it, but his would probably be heavier and work better.
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His kits do look stupendous Lucas ;)
Got another idea I need your input on guys. The springs are rotten on the '81 and the rear has actually broken half to a full coil off on both springs :o however it still rides quite nicely lol. I am getting a set of good used springs from a buddy that he has laying from when he went to coils.. Yeah he's a Vortex guy through and through, he also runs like 155/45/13 wheels.. Looks good, but not my style really. pics for shiggles (shakes and wiggles, not **** and giggles lol)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/TIKI2001.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/TIKI2004.jpg)
As you can see he has less then half a beer bottle's height of ground clearance..
Anyway this is not about the Tiki-Taxi up there, this is about Doug (name for the gold 81??? :P) What I was planning on doing is cutting a few coils off each of the old springs and seeing how well it looks/rides. It's already running like a 175/75or80/13 tire.. so I'm not to terribly worried about the quality of the ride as the road vibrations shouldn't have that much affect with that thick of tire eh? plus if it rides like feces then i just throw on the good stock springs and be done with it. However just as I am writing this it has come to the front of my brain that the stock suspension is something retarded like 4" of suspension travel to begin with.. Will i be bouncing off the bump stops if i cut the springs? or will the shorter springs require more force to compress?
How many coils do you figure I would have to cut off to get between 1" and 1.5" drop out of it? any further and I think it would be too much don't you? or should i go further since I will be putting the other springs in anyway? 2" of drop safely? I guess the best bet is to measure how much ground clearance the oil pan has, and drop based on that.. I think i should be able to get away with 1.5-2" now that i think of it.. but that only leaves 2" of suspension play.. Will this affect it at all do you think? This is mainly for fun to be honest.. i would like to see how it looks and what it feels like and all that.. but most likely won't be staying on the car.. unless if rides better than i expect it too lol.
Any suggestions? What are the bump stops for? to prevent complete coil bind of the springs?
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No ideas on cutting the coils off eh guys? Coommmmeee oooonnnnnn ;)
Where are al you guys who are following this thread? you never cut springs before? I haven't so I eed to know LOL :P
I was checking alignment on my 84 tonight.. because it has been off ever since I did the drivers side tie-rod in the fall.. and i have been jsut rubbing off one tire ever so slightly i guess.. oh well :( I was wayyy off! ALMOST A FULL INCH OF TOE IN!!! Jesssusssss!! So now I have it to within a 1/16" between the measurement on the back of the tires and the front of the tires. I hope this puts it back to where it needs to be.. driving it on snow is SKETCH! Imagine going down a snow road, and the tires fighting for which one is gonna make the car go straight.. lets say the right one wins.. and the left one is left to have toe in and slip along the snow... the left tire hits pavement and suddenly shoots the car to the right because now the left tire has won the traction fight!! It has been a basket case to drive I tell you lol.
I was reading up on some exhaust ideas for a free flowing upgrade and some said that a 1 3/4 - 2" would be a good choice with a very free flowing muffler on there... would be lot cheaper to come by.. however, if I ever want to make any sort of real power.. im probably gonna want a bigger exhaust from the get go eh? I will probably go with a 2" minimum.. most likely a 2.25" ehhh? I have heard good things from people who use a 2.25" on a N/a.
Now here's a really juicy question, what would be the best car to scope out for a complete turbo setup. I was thinking if i could find a 1.6 in the junkyard with a full engine.. i could grab both manifolds, turbo, lines and maybe even oil pan.. What do you guys think of this? Will the 1.9 pan fit on the 1.6? What turbo's came on the AAZ? Pardon my ignorance, I have never delved in to the idea of turbo's yet.. this is where i think I will start looking in to the turboing of my Diesel.. Sounds like a good option to make its life easier.. Gonna run reasonable boost for the little guy and enough fuel to only reach 1000F tops for the EGT.. should make it really happy eh?
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No ideas on cutting the coils off eh guys? Coommmmeee oooonnnnnn ;)
Where are al you guys who are following this thread? you never cut springs before? I haven't so I eed to know LOL :P
I was checking alignment on my 84 tonight.. because it has been off ever since I did the drivers side tie-rod in the fall.. and i have been jsut rubbing off one tire ever so slightly i guess.. oh well :( I was wayyy off! ALMOST A FULL INCH OF TOE IN!!! Jesssusssss!! So now I have it to within a 1/16" between the measurement on the back of the tires and the front of the tires. I hope this puts it back to where it needs to be.. driving it on snow is SKETCH! Imagine going down a snow road, and the tires fighting for which one is gonna make the car go straight.. lets say the right one wins.. and the left one is left to have toe in and slip along the snow... the left tire hits pavement and suddenly shoots the car to the right because now the left tire has won the traction fight!! It has been a basket case to drive I tell you lol.
I was reading up on some exhaust ideas for a free flowing upgrade and some said that a 1 3/4 - 2" would be a good choice with a very free flowing muffler on there... would be lot cheaper to come by.. however, if I ever want to make any sort of real power.. im probably gonna want a bigger exhaust from the get go eh? I will probably go with a 2" minimum.. most likely a 2.25" ehhh? I have heard good things from people who use a 2.25" on a N/a.
Now here's a really juicy question, what would be the best car to scope out for a complete turbo setup. I was thinking if i could find a 1.6 in the junkyard with a full engine.. i could grab both manifolds, turbo, lines and maybe even oil pan.. What do you guys think of this? Will the 1.9 pan fit on the 1.6? What turbo's came on the AAZ? Pardon my ignorance, I have never delved in to the idea of turbo's yet.. this is where i think I will start looking in to the turboing of my Diesel.. Sounds like a good option to make its life easier.. Gonna run reasonable boost for the little guy and enough fuel to only reach 1000F tops for the EGT.. should make it really happy eh?
the snow thing with the worn out front end. been there done that. scarry as crap. alignment was off 5 inches on my toyota once. and wasnt ridiculously obvious. it was more obvious by how it drove, rather than how it sat and looked.
and if i were you, i would run 2.25 atleast, and run a glasspack behind the shifter for a resonator, and then some sort of a cheap welded muffler, not a cheap turbo muffler. turbo mufflers dont flow for crap. magna flow, borla, flowmaster, all those mufflers are good. magnaflows are about the cheapest name brand muff. i get all my flowmaster knock offs for around 30-40 bucks.
as for turbo, if you can find the whole car, and it runs, and you can afford it, just buy the whole engine and swap in. a 1.9 pan fits fine. K03's were the most common AAZ turbo. i think you could get them with T2s and maybe a couple other ones too tho. i would look for a 1.6 with a T3 or K24 on it. they seem pretty tough, but kinda laggy at the same time. but i dont mind lag. thats a part of turbo charging that you can never fully get rid of. and if you are only looking for 1000EGT, you can get that much fuel out of a stock n/a pump and injectors. turbo pump and injectors would make it way more fun.
and this topic kinda flows back into the exhaust paragraph. if you are going to put a turbo on it, you need to run at very minimum 2.25" pipe. i would run full 3" with a turbo tho. atleast 2.5"
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I fixed my alignment :) it worked.. and is straight as an arrow now! Score!
I think I will go with a 2.25" with a good muffler. Maybe some magnaflows... they sound awesome.
The only reason I would want to swap on a turbo setup, is honestly about the engine.. if it were some 150k mile motor, swap it in a heartbeat.. I want to put a turbo on whats in the car.. so I can say i drive a car with over 620k miles on the engine :) you know? Completely for nostalgia reasons ;)
a ko3, n/a pump, and injectors.. golden :) Low rpm boost is what I'm looking for I think.. in the 1500-3500 range really.. is it possible wit ha K03?
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Anyone on the cutting of springs?
Thinkin' of doin this on Friday.. What Would Jesus Do?
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I put mk2 jetta front springs on my rabbit and cut 1.5 coils off and got about a 2" drop, mk2 springs are tougher so that only got it down to stock mk1 height. Maybe you'll have to do some trial and error.
Remember that cutting coils off changes the rate and strength and all that so I thiiiink it would ride stiffer.
IMHO the bump stops are so the strut bodies don't bang into the strut tops when you hit potholes and stuff.
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Trial and Error seems the route to go. cut each 1 coil, see how it looks and feels.. lol I was thinking of the mk2 direction, but I have a friend giving me his old springs, so I figured.. take em there free, and these ones are broken lol.
I am looking for a stiffer more defined feeling ride, so this may just what I am looking for. I don't generally drive where I ever need a ton of ground clearance anyway.. this car will most likely not be subjected to the off roading the current one has been. I have been down some trails and parked up beside atv's and trucks with mud splattered on MY windshield ;)
It seems as though the bump stops could be smaller.. no? having them be so large is effectively reducing the amount of strut travel. Surely you would have to hit a majorly huge pot hole to ever bottom out the strut completely eh? Plus with increasing the tensile strength of the front springs by cutting them.. this would be even harder to achieve..
Could the bump stops be trimmed to allow another inch or two of strut travel? Or done away with completely? How many times have you ever hit your bump stops? maybe driving way to fast down some rough road? My current car hits hard on some hard ruts, but i blame most on the sachs struts, and some on the 185/60/14 tires...
This car will be running thick balloon tires, as I see no purpose in running low pro's or anything close to them :P. When i buy new rubbers for it they will most likely be a 165-175 tread width, 75-80 sidewall ratio, and 13" rim.. maybe 14..
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Cutting heavier than stock springs will stiffen it a lot and maybe keep it off the stops, but if you're cutting the stock spring then it'll just sit closer to the bump stops and probably hit it more. Shortening the stops will give more travel but won't let it absorb as much shock, gotta remember that on a good hit the weight of the car plus inertia is landing on the stops :P.
On sharpish corners that have frost heaves I've slammed into the stops a few times in quick succession and it feels terrible. I've never had GOOD struts though, I've had new sachs and napa ones but they're a waste of time, some high perf struts might fix that though.
Be sure you don't heat the springs too much during cutting ;D.
To add to that, the stock springs have a "flatter" coil on the bottom spreading the weight out so it doesn't stab a hole in the lower retainer with the spring end. Cutting them will get rid of that and the end will push rather hard on the retainer, I wonder if it'd be possible to somehow "flatted" the last half coil a bit without heating it and ruining it?
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Everyday I bottom out my GTI. There is always a pot hole I miss...and I look constantly. Sometimes the road doesn't look bad but after you hit 10 little bumps fast enough the suspension doesn't know which way to go and I bottom out. I don't have the bump stops either. They got bumped off after several hits and are just gone now. I recommend them. I swear to you I have replaced 2 wheel bearings that were perfect other than a little dimple that I believe was caused by hitting a hard bump and the little ball leaving its mark.
This is also the reason I started the suspension upgrade thread for me. I want the jetta to last when done.
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You make a good point lucas, I was lookin at it today while doin a severe$ PITA oil change and it doesn't have that much to drop.. maye if i lived in CALI or somewhere where road care is even on the list of what taxes go towards... Ontario is not for lowered cars ;)
I think I will go for a good suspension as well, what have you decided on?
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I dedeucted that the vacuum pump is probably to blame on the no brakes situation.. Pulling the line from the booster does not result in the "POP" from the vacuum in the booster. The vacuum in the line is not much at all when i put my finger over it while the engine is running.. Which kinda gives me hope that I will not have to replace the booster. lol ;) hopefully anyway.
As for suspension, stock height with some good struts and springs ought to do it up real nice eh? Bilsteins are a tad expensive at something like $200 a piece :o
Even if I were to cut springs, it would only be the old rotten ones that would be coming off anyway.. so for fun basically.. not to be driven around on lol :)
Maybe I will try and get my hands on some mk2 springs and cut them down to mk1 ride height so I can get some stiffer springs without sacrificing ride height, and risk slamming off the bump stops...
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Yeah the vac pump should pull a pretty good vacuum, although I had a problem once where the vac pump worked good but the brakes were a joke. I pulled the booster and looked in it and messed around blew it up to 120psi blabla and when I put it back together it worked fine ::).
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I had planned to do an oil change and a coolant flush the other day. I got one done as it was too cold to be messing around with fully flushing the coolant, and i didn't have any running water available to fill it back up with the flushing additive... ::) Never in my life have I had an oil change take so long and give me so many problems.. lol. First the filter was practically welded on to the flange.. and i couldn't find my filter wrench so I had to settle for a punch and a hammer. lol so after a nice long fight with that I went to get the drain plug out.. sure enough the PO striped the HELL out of it. GREAT! so i get out my vice-grips.. no luck, only making it worse! starting to go numb as I had already been outside prior to deciding to do this. what to do what to do? PIPE WRENCH! Fantastic invention! The harder you pull the tighter it wraps itself around whatever you have it around! LOVE IT. Got the bolt out, new MANN filter on, 4L of new 15w-40 oil in (some people i have heard say this is to thick) and 500ml of Bardahl Oil Treatment. let the oil settle and make its way back to the pan.. and then fired it up. Woohoo, no leaks. So happy at this point, as it was cold as crap out. Get in and get warmed up as i let it sit there and idle. Had it warmed up prior to doing the change, so the oil would flow easily.
I have a question, what is the temperature ranges for a 15w-40 (or was it 15w-50??) diesel motor oil? I think the little green book that came with the Jetta shows it as being used down to around -15 Celsius. It has not hurt starting in anyway, still cranks over very quickly and fires on the second chug of the starter.. Starts better then my 1.7 gasser :P so it seems to me that 15w is not to heavy for winter starting at -5 or -10 C. However what would be the best warm up routine, let it warm up for a few minutes with the high idle on (91 pump has this awesome feature), and then be on my way? keeping the revs low and not putting it under to much load? seems to be the quickest way to warm up my 1.7..
I will be pulling the vac pump off the 91 engine sometime this week and hopefully getting it in to the 81 engine fairly shortly so i can have some real brakes.. I've been driving it around the last couple days, just around the area.. small road in the middle of nowhere.. and even with absolutely no power brakes the car can still be stopped fairly well, with the gears of course lol.
Rabbitman you blew the booster up to 120psi?? what would this tell you? that it id for sure working ant not leaking? lol I am still not exactly sure how they work.. to be honest.. suck in a very small amount of air.. and all of the sudden braking is night and day? i do not get it..
I didn't go through with the cutting of the springs, as I was looking at them and they are definitely all shot. The two fronts coils sit very very close together.. meaning the springs barely have any lift on them anymore.. so new springs and struts all around are for sure.. Seeing as i will be adding new springs to the list.. Should I be getting new Mk1 springs for it? or new Mk2 springs and cut them down to begin with? or some good used mk2 springs.. from somebody who just went to coils and will be very likely to get rid of them for close to nothing? ;) Also I know Lucas (theman53) has a thread going about what struts to use to get a quality ride that isn't going to be shot after 15k :(
What are your thoughts and opinions Sirs. ;D
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I pumped the booster up thinking it was junk so it couldn't hurt anything anyways, and I don't know how they work so I figured "it might wiggle something it there and make it work" :P. The brakes have worked good ever since ;D.
It I was gonna buy new springs I'd get mk1 ones, cutting the mk2 springs isn't perfected so you might just end up wasting your money. I wish I knew what the rate/strength and all that was so I could see how close to stock mk1 they are.
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vac problems - check the hoses. they develop hairline cracks that are a little hard to distinguish... pray that it is not the vac pump itself. if it is, i would recommend just getting an electric one unless you can use a repair kit...
power issues - low torque means you're static timing is good. now you need to fiddle with the dynamic timing advance. joy!
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vac problems - check the hoses. they develop hairline cracks that are a little hard to distinguish... pray that it is not the vac pump itself. if it is, i would recommend just getting an electric one unless you can use a repair kit...
power issues - low torque means you're static timing is good. now you need to fiddle with the dynamic timing advance. joy!
Replacement diaphrams are easy to get, if it's the vane type a junkyard one would work fine ;D.
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I have a vane one from the 91 parts engine i have.. and from what i have read it "should" replace the diaphragm one in the 81 engine.. lets hope eh. An electric one? Do explain. Expensive? I can't imagine so really.. that would be kinda neat.. but if the vane one i have on the other engine will work.. why not right? lol
Dynamic timing advance.. oooh a term i have not yet delved in to! Please enlighten me on this Jon ;)
I will most likely just go with some good brand struts.. and fresh mk1 springs from a reputable name as well. Should make it ride like a million bucks :P
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I have the vane type in my 81 from an 86.. Fit right in.. I can't remember though if I used the tube to the booster from the 81 or the 86.. I feel it works better than the diaphragm one ever did, even when it was rebuilt.. Remember that you either need to swap the plate or plug the hose going into the side of the block..
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GUYS GUYS GUYS GUYS ;)
Ok so I sprang a leak!! I was running the car, getting it up to temp and just goofing around with it. Warmed it up with some short low rpm trips up and down the road.. good to go! Line it up and get the stopwatch out. Ready Set GO! 1st gear screaming fighting for traction on the wet road, 2nd gear roaring up the speedo, 3rd gear closing in on 60mph.. ride 3rd out to not loose shift times and have no power in 4th.. TWENTY ONE SECONDS... it felt a lot quicker.. ;) anyway i have it back in the driveway just farting around with some stuff inside, when i notice smoke coming from the engine bay.. Oh Dear! I pop the hood, and notice that (i have the crank vent hose just venting to atmosphere to prevent any possible way of this thing running away on its own oil..) there was a good amount of oil running down the back of the intake main, good thing i had it disconnected HUH!? Not only that, but the plug on the last injector had sprung a huge leak and was spraying diesel EVERYWHERE... right in to the open intake manifold (as i was somewhat foolishly not running a filter or cover.. yeah yeah i know lol)... two lucky lucky lucky incidents that could have been a runaway to destruction! SHIZZA!
SO, I have new questions :) what size are the lines in between the injectors? I wish to find some appropriate clear line to put in their spot.. but that raises the question.. how to plug the end one?
I have an idea as to why there was excessive oil residue from the crank case vent.. I noticed when running my parts engine on the stand.. that I had the vacuum line to the booster just sucking air (before knowing that excessive air in the crank will start to puke oil out of every orifice) and upon revving it up, it would puke oil out of the dipstick.. and probably a little bit in to the intake.. So what i am thinking is the "leak" that may be causing me to have zero braking assistance, may be in fact so bad that it is allowing a ton of blowby.. and oil to leave the valve cover. I have a cam baffle in there from the 91 engine, so the oil puking should be at minimum no?
Brett! Would a normal plug that one would use to block off a vacuum port on the intake or such similar things work? with a hose clamp on it? I would assume using the tube that is still on the 91 pump would be ok.. as it is already there.. and goes to the same location on the 91 anyhow.. Good to know it swaps in :) i have heard speculation that they do not swap due to different oil shafts.. or something?
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SO, I have new questions :) what size are the lines in between the injectors? I wish to find some appropriate clear line to put in their spot.. but that raises the question.. how to plug the end one?
I think 3.5 mm, someone will chime in for sure.. To plug the last one, cut a short piece of line, stick it on the injector.. Stick a BB in the line.. I've seen that from the factory on some non vw diesels...
Brett! Would a normal plug that one would use to block off a vacuum port on the intake or such similar things work? with a hose clamp on it? I would assume using the tube that is still on the 91 pump would be ok.. as it is already there.. and goes to the same location on the 91 anyhow.. Good to know it swaps in :) i have heard speculation that they do not swap due to different oil shafts.. or something?
I have heard speculations that the oil pump shafts changed in the early 90's.. possibly 92ish.. Could just be a difference between a 1.6 and an AAZ too.. Do a visual comparison to be sure...
A standard ole vac plug would probably work for a while, but most of them are not oil compatible, meaning eventually it'll deteriorate.. Swapping that little plate isn't too bad.. Or for the cheap and lazy such as myself I cut the old hose off and clamped a bolt in it...
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It sounds like you may have excessive return line pressure, worn injectors or just crappy old hoses if the injector line blew off. Maybe even all 3 ;D
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I think 3.5 mm, someone will chime in for sure.. To plug the last one, cut a short piece of line, stick it on the injector.. Stick a BB in the line.. I've seen that from the factory on some non vw diesels...
O RLY!?
(http://www.flashpointsocialmedia.com/Area51/Orion/Images/o_rly.jpg)
That sounds a tad on the pathetic side with the BB ;) 3.5mm does seem like it would be small enough for sure. What about T-ing that last injector back in to the return line? Would this mess with stuff? or is just not done because it does not need to be done?
I have heard speculations that the oil pump shafts changed in the early 90's.. possibly 92ish.. Could just be a difference between a 1.6 and an AAZ too.. Do a visual comparison to be sure...
A standard ole vac plug would probably work for a while, but most of them are not oil compatible, meaning eventually it'll deteriorate.. Swapping that little plate isn't too bad.. Or for the cheap and lazy such as myself I cut the old hose off and clamped a bolt in it...
Yeah someone looked it up for me, and they only saw two part numbers for the 1.6.. Rotary, and Diaphragm.. and the rotary superseded the diaphragm's part #.. soo Hopefully it works out ;) brakes are a thing most of us take for granted i think. lol
I like your way of doing it, cutting it off and bolting it closed works for a lot of other uses on cars with vacuum hoses! why not here right? Thanks
It sounds like you may have excessive return line pressure, worn injectors or just crappy old hoses if the injector line blew off. Maybe even all 3 ;D
Well it didn't so much as "blow off".. it had a pinhole-ish size hole in the side of the plug that was surprisingly shooting a thin stream of diesel right up in to my open intake manifold.. quite scary in fact.. ;D
I'm headed outside to pull (im an idiot for not seeing it sooner!) the return lines, vacuum pump and INJECTORS from the newer much less mile engine.. and put them in the other one! DOhh
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I think you mentioned about wanting to use something clear? 3/16" motorcycle/chainsaw fuel line works dandy for normal applications.. Hot WVO flowing though it tend to make it leak though.. The clear vinyl tubing sold at most hardwars works for a while but tends to get hard and not seal after a while.. It's much worse with hot wvo...
That sounds a tad on the pathetic side with the BB ;)
How about a check ball, or ball bearing then?? But one that is BB sized... ;D
One other thing to keep in mind.. Be careful with the connector on top of the rotary pump.. It's actually a check valve made of some now nicely aged plastic... And I sure you know how aged plastic like to go poof upon the slightest abuse..
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(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/0218001543.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/0218001544.jpg)
Rotary pump, removed and ready to be transplanted. Also removed the injectors and return lines ;) Does anybody have any good local places to get heat shields? I phoned VW and asked there parts guy.. I was astounded to hear him ring off 5 figures.......... :o
No freaking way, he musta had the wrong part.. everywhere else is like $1.. or around there. I dunno.. can't be what I'm looking for, if it is holy crap. I tried my local parts place, and no go sadly. Where to get them from?
3/16!? Damn I had some in my hand.. Snowmobile fuel line, with a reddish tinge.. looks kinda cool. Take that, put it on there, with a nice little red zip tie on each injector barb.. looks ok and is practical :) lol
Yes Sir! I know all to well what old plastic is like, lol.
I posted those pics with a tape measure.. in case somebody else had pics of the bottom of a Diaphragm pump ;) looks to be about 2.5" in depth in to the block from the mating surface,
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Should I be getting any oil coming from the CCV if I have a cam baffle in there? I would immediately point it to having a ton of blow-by.. and the rings being non existent... but it starts up so well, which means compression must still be good. 20F it started like it wasn't even cold out, and it had 15-40 oil in it! imagine how it would start with some super light synthetic? CRAZY
Anyway, if the diaphragm pump fails, does it begin to suck any air from atmosphere? or maybe there is a crack in the vacuum line.. and the crank is sucking in excessive pressure... i wonder i wonder
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Unplug the vac line at the booster and feel the vacuum, then unplug it at the vac pump and compare vacuums. I've never tried this but if you have a bad enough leak this will let you know.......
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Edit: Grab a snack and
a beverage Three Beverages of your choice.. this is a long post.
Ok, did some work, got some answers ;), messed around with some stuff, got some questions :D
Gonna lay it out paragraph style, because as anyone who has read pretty much any of my posts knows that I RAMBLE ON (also my favorite song lol) for quite some time.. and sometimes whatever it is that I am rambling about gets strewn all over the post, and no one knows what the hell is going on! :) (plus I just really love to write/talk)
Table of Contents:
Vacuum Pumps
Vacuum Lines for Air Vents
Relaying of the Fan Motor
Blow-By
Injectors
Ghetto Horn
Air Suspension
Cleansing/Shaving of the Bay
Vacuum Pumps
So I tore more parts of the 91 engine for the 81 engine.. gotta love having a good solid parts motor, i highly suggest you pick one up if you don't have one. I took the injector return lines, the injectors, and the vacuum pump itself. Now as you know I was trying to see if it were possible to fit a 91 rotary/vane style vacuum pump in to the place of an 81 diaphragm style vacuum pump. After pulling the old one out and laying them side by side.. a visual inspection told me they were nearly identical below the engine mating surface. I doubt you could tell the two apart if you didn't know which was which.. Love the Germans, they saved me some dough :)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010348.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010351.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010352.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010353.jpg)
As you can see the two pumps are practically identical side by side, with the same gear and the same depth, and the same insides of where the oil pump was engaged. I was giddier then a school girl when I pulled out the old one and saw that it was identical ;D. Now for the tube that went from the old pump to the block.. what was its purpose anyhow? Did it take air from the block? or did it put air in the block? the fitting from which the tube came had a lot of oil in it.. normal or not? possible reason for death of said pump?
The 91 pump (rotary) is a direct swap in to a 81 pump (diaphragm) from the two engines I had. Kevin tells me the 1.5 pump may be different, but i don't see why it would be if everything else is the same between the two engines right? Parts place only list three vacuum pumps ever. One diaphragm design for the 1.5/1.6's till a certain year, One rotary design for everything after the change until 1993.. when the AAZ came out, it also has a rotary pump.. and is the third design.
MAN DO THE BRAKES EVER WORK! EVEN WITH RUSTY ROTORS!! Slows this thing down like nobodies business!!!
Quick side question, the rear brakes in my 84 have practically become non existent.. to the point of not even sliding on snow (drifting), or holding the car on the slightest of incline... They are only a year old.. what do you figure is going on? I think i shall pull the drums tomorrow to see what is up in there... They can't be worn out already can they?
Vacuum Lines for Air Vents
So the genius PO decided he would remove the A/C and also the option to choose where the air comes out! (another one of his brilliant ideas, including deleting the antenna..) YES ::) Now I understand that they are vacuum actuated.. but i do not understand how.. does the vacuum lines go in to the cabin, and then are sent to where they need to go by the selection of the lever? (I like the fact that my 84 is cable driven :P) Really all I would want is Defrost, and Feet heat.. and I see the actuator for the feet heat.. soo how do i go about making this work.. take out the actuator and have it cable driven to a small switch on the dash? how would you do it? ;) I also notice that there is an actuator in the rain tray to close off the air box from fresh air, what would this do? is it for the recirculating of the A/C? so it is not sucking hot air from outside??? Seems this one can be left permanently open.
Relaying of the Fan Motor
I have the dash pulled apart, but everything still plugged in (4-ways, fan, lights, defrost) so it is functional and all that junk. The wiring for the fan gets too hot to touch! How does this not for one melt the plastic switch, and two how have any wires not caught on fire in the last twenty-nine years? I want to relay my fan motor, but am not sure about how to really go about it.. Do I have to run an individual relay for each speed setting of the fan? Power goes from battery, fuse box, fan switch.. where it is then broken up in to 3 or 4 paths depending on speed selection. Which ever speed you choose the power continues its path onwards to that part of the resistor on the fan motor.. correct? So how do you remedy this? or is it only necessary for the high setting? where max amps are being pulled? What are your trials and tribulations about this one?
Blow-By
Keeping on with the air theme of the previous paragraphs, lets talk about excessive blow-by. Last week prior to the vacuum pump change, I was driving the car a little hard.. beating on it through the gears, and just plain ol' laying in to the pedal a bit. after this run I noticed quite a bit of oil had dripped down the back of the intake (I have my crank case venting to atmosphere to prevent blow-by runaway.. luckily too) and was burning off on the exhaust manifold.. I thought to myself, crap has it been doing this all along? I couldn't remember, so I was worried for the health of the little guy. Instantly the thought of worn rings was in my mind, but worn enough rings to let that much blow-by through would also be enough to allow a significant drop in compression no? I would have looked here if the car didn't start so magnificently.. This morning I let go out and get in to the car, let the glows go for 13-15 seconds left them on, cranked it over, caught on the second turn. Pulled the cold start lever, and it evened out and was idling smooth with no smoke. 10 seconds and i blip the throttle to excite the alt. 20 more seconds go by (30 since cranking), turn the glows off and push in the advance lever. drops the idle back down to whatever it is at (900? stock setting on 91 pump) and it is running beautifully :). If the rings were bad, or compression was low, this wouldn't start so smoothly right? It starts like a TDI. TBH, thats how i feel about it. blip of the starter and its running, even after sitting for 2 weeks.. But anyhow back to the blow-by, i noticed the oil on the intake before I swapped out the vacuum pump. After the pump change, I decided to put a catch can under the crank vent tube.
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010373.jpg)
I took the car out for a hard drive (after warming it up sufficiently of course..) and to my surprise, not a drop of oil was in the can when i got back from my 4 mile ROMPING. Plenty of blow-by going in and out of the can.. but no oil drops.. good enough for me. Must have been the old vacuum pump pressurizing the crank case somehow.. and allowing it to puke oil out of its orifices lol.
Injectors
I pulled the injectors from the 91 engine as well, as I am going to assume that they are in a little better shape. It is impossible to tell really.. but there is zero sludge in the 91 with 300k and a fair amount in the 81 with 700k+.. the 91 owner took a little better care it seems ;) So i assume those injectors are either fresh, or at least if they are stock.. might have less miles on them. I want to get a set from Mr. Giles' Wonderful Emporium :D eventually along with a Super Pump built for modest power, and killer economy. Now FWIW, would it be worth my trouble (not much trouble at all) to change out the injectors? I mean pop the lines off, injectors out, injectors in, lines, and prime.. no biggy.. just.. would you do it? How do I tell visually if an Injector is better than another? anyway to do this? lol
Ghetto Horn
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010376.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010375.jpg)
Look at this thing? ITS CLASSIC! I LOVE IT! I haven't seen if it works or not yet, but I sure hope it does. Is this a VW piece ;D If it works all the better, but if not.. this thing is totally getting AIR HORNS!! oooooohhhhh yeahhhh. Wow I just a did a little search, and some people go all freaking out on the air horn thing.. TRAIN HORNS. 149db at 125ft away from the horn... :o :o :o You have got to be frigging kidding me!!!!!! THAT IS INSANE!!! I do not want Train horns on this thing, but I would like some smaller more car size air horn suggestions if you all have any that you have come across in your infinite travels among the interwebz..
$250 will get me this 115db (5ft from horn.. not 125ft like psycho horn up there) complete setup :D I LIKE IT. but seriously... small small small. lol
(http://s1.hornblasters.org/products/HK/S2/127/shocker-127dx-front_t.jpg)
Air Suspension
Just touch base on this one.. its 2 am and I'm super tired, to tired ot finish this post.. I wrote the rest hours ago when I was awake... lol If you were to do an air suspension.. would you even consider it? have you seen any cool posts outlining it? is it a buy a kit type thing? or is it more of a custom jobby? My 67 Cougar has rear air shocks.. and can be pumped up or let loose wit ha bicycle pump to desired stiffness/looseness... Would it be the same idea here? or no..? I cannot see why it wouldn't be similar.. Jeez, my brain is mush! It's not that I want to go low with the car.. in fact I do not want to change it's height at all. I am 6'3" and getting down in to my car is already low enough.. now if I were some pewny 5'8" guy I could understand it.. lmao
Cleansing/Shaving of the Bay
This thing is gonna need the harshest of all chemicals, that will be washed off in to a pan and disposed of properly don't you worry. I just want to get it clean.. It leaked oil for a long time and it is EVERYWHERE!! As can be seen from some engine bay shots:
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010374.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Diesel/Feb2010342.jpg)
What do you guys suggest short of Phosphoric Acid and Ammonia :D lol. I mean once again I am not looking for OMG sparkle.. clean, just clean. :) How about shaving.. not really much in there to begin with.. Probably just tuck a few wires in to some looms.. all i can really do. its a very empty bay to begin with lol.
For all that just read my Essay thank-you very much :) I hope you enjoyed it. WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK? Long winded or what? ;)
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WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK? Long winded or what?
I've done better...
Rotary pump FTW!! Couldn't believe the difference myself and a swapped from a healthy diaphragm pump.. The hose to the crank case is the exhaust from the vac pump.. It sucks on one side, it's gotta blow somewhere.. Since it depends on engine oil working it's way into it for lube, for environmental purposes they exhausted it to the crank case.. The rotary pump exhausts out the bottom near the drive gear...
AS far as the back brakes on the 84, what all have you done to them?? ;D I wear mine rather frequently, but I tend to umm "misuse" the parking brake alot.. I'm assuming you are referring to the service brake (pedal) and no the parking brake.. I believe they still use the little wedge type adjusters which don;t have much to fail, short of things falling apart which would be making some sort of noise I woudl think.... Does your car have the little proportioning valve in the rear that connects to the axle?? Not sure that I've seen on a Mk1 but I'm not sure.. Next on the list would be wheel cyls siezed or an ailing master cyl which typical gives funky pedal feel...
Air vent vac should have a small line connected to the big hose off the vac pump and running inside to the controls.. There might be a vac reservoir in the line somewhere.. Typically they are needed for gassers, so I dunno if the diesels had it or not.. The actuator in the rain tray is for recirc on the a/c.. No need for that as long as it's open... IF you can find some variety of vac switch that could be an option, but I believe 2 actuators need to be operated for the funtions you want..
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/VW/vwxps1.jpg)
The fan motor is typically relayed on the high speed setting by most manufacturers.. IF you wanted to relay it on every setting you would need a relay for each speed.. Wiring would be something like this...
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/VW/relayfan.jpg)
Looking at the ends of the nozzels you can sometimes see if there is errosion around the pintle.. Pop tester is still about your best injector option.. You'll only be our a few bucks for heat shields to swap and try, I'd say go for it if you feel the other ones are better...
Like the horn, I hope it works.. Sort of reminds me of some of the old Jeep horns or the 60's.. If you're looking for small air horns.. Check out JC WHintey or someone like that.. They used to have small electric jobbies.. They didn't store any air, the little compressor is activated by the horn button to make em blow.. Just remeber to give the compressor a drop of oil once in a while.. http://www.jcwhitney.com/XTREME_120dB_AIR_HORNS?ID=12;0;0;0;100001;ProductName;0;0;0;0;2008992;0;0 (http://www.jcwhitney.com/XTREME_120dB_AIR_HORNS?ID=12;0;0;0;100001;ProductName;0;0;0;0;2008992;0;0)
I'm not going to speak much about air suspension.. If you want adjustable ride height look into adjustable coil overs.. IMO air suspension just leaves too many things to cause problems.. I've made alot of money over the years converting factory air ride systems to good ole springs..
A steam cleaner is idea for cleaning the engine bay and engine, but I not always available I know.. I;ve used the "Engine Bright" stuff int he spray can, or Purple Power (same as Castrol super clean I think) and even Simple Green.. A good degreaser goes a long way.. If you can hook hot water to a sprayer or pressure washer the results are amazing...
Hmm this post was kinda short for me....
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How far do you have to pull the e-brake handle for the brakes to engage? you can adjust the cables as they do stretch a bit over time. one of my cables actually broke ::)
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Small post here, The brakes stop the car fine.. more or less.. its the e-brake that is retarded.. I think when i only replaced one drum, and all new shoes and hardware.. they were fine.. but as it has been wearing.. the old drum just is too worn and the brakes cannot physically grab enough. ALSO there was a spring missing in the hardware of the new drum. ALSO the old drum was loose when i took the wheel off, like wth!? the nut went atleast 3 full turns with finger pressure alone..... HOW DID IT GET SO LOOSE!? thats scary..
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/HPIM1655.jpg)
This was the missing spring.. the self adjuster thingy :P what is its purpose? how does it adjust? I found a new spring, but had to go to the bottom of the shoe, as going to the stock hole wasn't allowing enough pull on the spring.. I have to pull the handle all the way up, with the cables adjusted separately for each drum having different wear.. but the old drum needs to be adjusted all the way. New drums would fix it.. but this car isn't gonna be mine much longer.. so it will suffice.. i always park it in gear anyway.. went the first 6-7 months of owning it without a functioning parking brake at all lol
On a side note, check out my trunk lighting ;)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/HPIM1658.jpg)
Thanks Brett for all your thoughts lol ;D Thanks for the two diagrams, looks like it shouldn't be too hard at all to get the actuators working again. Did you draw the fan wiring one? loool. Are you 4 years old with a crayon? lmao "here daddy i drawed you dis picshure" haha only jkin, it doesn't have to be pretty i understand it.
I think i agree on the air susp.. a good strut/spring combo will be better in the long run i would think.
STEAM CLEANER! That's Genius. Hmm, I wonder where i can get one of those for like a day or whatever.. Or like you say.. hot water in a pressure washer and some good degreaser in the pressure washer as well should clean almost anything eh?
thanks guys.
Local Radio Rep, straight up. Classic Rock Masters lol
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/84%20Jetta/HPIM1656.jpg)
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The worn drum is probably the issue, it's amazing what new ebrake cables can do too.. I sprung for a set on the Rabbit.. WOW..
That spring pulls that little wedge downward between the brake strut and brake shoe.. AS things wear the brake shoes spread further apart and away from the strut allowing the spring to pull that little wedge down and take up the slack.. These are one of the nicest, simplest drum brake adjusters I've seen..
How'd your wheel bearings look?? IF there was a cotter pin in there to hold the nut, about the only way things are gonna work loose is bearing wear.. That or it just wasn;t tight enough to begin with.. I know I get a bit conservative when it comes to tightening those small wheel bearings.. A bad experience with a Festiva got me this way..
Nice trunk lighting indeed!! You need the lights like I have in the '99 Vic.. Since it's a Police Interceptor it has two big red lights that flash alternately when the trunk is open.. I should have told my mom how to shut those off when she borrowed it a while ago.. I guess she was kinda embarrassed at the grocery store.. ;D
I did indeed draw that wiring diagram.. Rather hastily using windows paint.. I was hoping that it would be at least somewhat clear.. I have software that makes really nice diagrams, but is a PITA to use.. I could probably do it with a t-square, triangle, template, and pencil faster... Just in case, here's a diagram of a relay that sort of explains what the correlation is between the number on the pins and their function..
(http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm124/maxfax3/relay.jpg)
FYI mopar products are a good source of relays at the junkyard.. Ford and GM seem to like using those mini relays which work fine, but I have yet to find terminals to fit them properly.... Yep, I'm that cheap...
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update on the 'ol girl :)
Went and put on about 60 miles today, listening to one of my dads mix tapes from the 80's, and just cruisin'.
It is about 5-10C out today, and I was driving with the window down just basking in the ambiance of diesel fumes and a tacky pine air freshener ;) The car did very well, up some steep grades, flat and down steep hills. Everything acted properly. BESIDES THE DAMN SHIFTER! Gaaaah getting in to first at stops was a bugger, i was on a hill, and turning on to a hill so i needed first! i couldn't grab it so i tried for second.. missed it too.. stalled it. fired it up got first! and got around the corner and then grabbed second except the engine was bucking and rattling something fierce. So i gave it a bit more pedal, it was speeding up so it was not that i was lugging the engine.. i got enough speed for third and the noise was gone as i let off the pedal and not there when i was light on the pedal in third.. but as soon as i got on it, it started makin the noise again.. pull over check everything, everything fine.. weird! I think i might have done in the rear motor mount now that i think of it... it didn't do it for the next 35 miles..
Pulled in to a truck stop on the highway and went to the only diesel pumps, where the rigs fill up! jeeez, this is gonna be embarrassing lol. I get funny looks from a few rigs as I'm filling up and one guy actually asks me if I know I'm puttin diesel in.. Are you serious? like I can't read or something. I mean i wasn't dressed in my sunday best, i was in my super dirty clothes.. i think i know whats goin on.
ALSO for anyone wanting to upgrade to much stronger brakes. PUT IN A ROTARY VACUUM PUMP! Holy cow does it stop amazing!!
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ALSO for anyone wanting to upgrade to much stronger brakes. PUT IN A ROTARY VACUUM PUMP! Holy cow does it stop amazing!!
x2!!
I love the fact that some people STILL look at you funny when you pull a car up to the diesel pump..
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Oh Yeahh THREE Mk1's :)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/Random/0306001626.jpg)
I was once told by many people over on the "hortex" that going to an N/a 1.6 will be like riding a slug around. I must say they were very wrong, or at least childishly misguided.
What the hell were they comparing too when they told me it was gonna be a slow vehicle? A 360 Ferrari Modena? Perhaps a Bugatti Veyron? They must have been comparing to something NO ONE has had the pleasure of driving themselves, because this car is far from slow. Completely stock everything (mind you I am running just the air filter.. no snorkel) this car gets up to 100kph (60mph) without any labour 'tall from the little 550k mile 1.6D.. I was passing cars and the sorts ;) Cruising at 135kph (85mph) (3200RPM) was no problem for it either.. and this is before the governor modifications...
THIS THING IS GONNA FLYYYY OMG
Which brings me to some hard decision making.. Money isn't tight but it isn't right either, so I can't be doing any frivolous spending right now.. No super pump, no EGT gauge, no stereo upgrade.. blah blah.. What I need to focus on is getting it road worthy. which is not much left, I just need to get the turn signals to work again.. and voila. perfect. I will be taking my deck, front speakers, rear speakers, amp and subs from my 84 to the 81 so that's covered. However heavy mods, such as ones needing a $100 EGT to make sure I don't start a metal forgery... a little out of the question at the moment. At least I know what westach stuff to order when the money comes in though. For now I will settle for a Cold/Ram air intake, and eventually a bigger (2.25") exhaust.
So what I need to know now is, Can I squeeze any power out of this little guy with the fuel screw alone.. without much change to over all EGT's? just a turn or two?
Lemme know what you guys think :)
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After driving a 19 foot Buick with a touch under 500ftlbs of torque for almost 10 years, just about every VW feels slow... But I'd much rather buy go juice for the VW... Generally people ragging on N/A's don't consider that the NA they have hasn't had any maintenance done in 200K.. Amazing what a bit of service, tweaking, and turning will do on them isn't it? I find the N/A's run just dandy with a delightful lack of something else to go wrong under the hood..
Judging by the ever so accurate butt dyno, I've never noticed any gains by turning the fuel screw, other than getting rid of mosquitoes.. Maybe considering general wear and tear, or if someone previously tinkered with it you might gain a little.. How smokey is the car now? The general rule of thumb I've always heard is a slight whisp of smoke at full load...