VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => Non VW Group Diesel => Topic started by: dennis on November 05, 2009, 02:56:10 pm
-
Tried a can about 200 miles ago in the Volvo 245 D24. Still burning oil but smoother (I think). Gonna put more in next time the oil level drops. Just used enough for a 4 cylinder.
-
once they start burning oil, they dont stop. unless you rebuild them. does it burn a quart every 100 miles like my 2.0 TD?
-
Oil additives should never be used. They cause more harm than benefit, especially anything with PTFE (teflon). The oil you put in the engine is already nearly 1/2 additives to begin with.
-
Yeah I know about additives. Its just that I am milking this engine untill I get my Caddy on the road. Im planning a D24T for the Volvo. Shes showing over 230k right now with a re-build tag on the instrument cluster, (probably more) and I am commuting 180 miles a day round trip. I think I like Smoke be gone better. The tranny is making noise too. (Saw dust may help???) The body is great though. Think I'll keep it. I can make it better. ;D
-
once they start burning oil, they dont stop. unless you rebuild them. does it burn a quart every 100 miles like my 2.0 TD?
half a quart every 200. Some is just condensed blowby dripping out of my crankcase vent onto the intake. Takes a couple of shop towels to sopp it up.
-
thats not even that bad yet dude. im surprised my audi doesnt run away with how much oil it burns. it has such bad rings that if you rod on it, to about 4000 rpms, and then let off and hold it in gear, it will make the biggest cloud of white oil smoke you have ever seen.
-
Same here with the smoke. Seems worse some days than others. Think I'll do some work on my Caddy's down pipe today if I can getaway from the customer cars.
-
Anybody ever use engine restore oil in a bike with wet clutches? Im burning a little oil and dont have the cash to sping for new rings but i got 4 bucks for a can of this stuff. Just wondering if it will affect the clutches
-
If this stuff really worked like they say, it would still likely not "repair" the surface of your cylinder walls. The stuff gets mixed with your engine oil. Supposedly small particles get "pressed" into the grooves of your cylinder wall and restore compression.
-If the particles fill up gaps, your bearings should be the first thing that gets "restored". A small percentage of your oil hits the cylinder walls. Your piston rings act like scrapers, so I don't understand how exactly they turn into a tool to "press" the particles into the grooves.
-Most worn engines have extremely smooth cylinder walls. You see grooves once parts start to break and get between the piston/skirts and damage the cylinder walls. How does something in suspension in a can even begin to build up a coating over the entire cylinder wall? How does it compensate for out of round cylinder walls? Taper?
-The vendor focuses on "testimonials". "I put it in and I think it runs better". This is because they can't be sued or nailed for false advertising because they are just repeating what satisfied customers say.
-Note they also tell you to use at every oil change, which tends to contradict any expectation of a "repair".
I tried the product on a badly worn Ford (Mazda) 2.0 l engine. I checked compression prior to use, used as per instructions, ran for the specified length of time, and rechecked compression. No change.
I had a co-worker a few years ago who had a Cordoba that burned oil badly. He ran 50% mix of his normal motor oil and 85W-140 gear oil. The oil burning almost completely stopped. It didn't "repair' the engine though.
-
thicker oil is harder to suck past the rings and valve guides.
-
thicker oil is harder to suck past the rings and valve guides.
15w40 for my engine lol.. helps the engine to NOT puke from every orifice. lol
However I do believe Barhdals (sp?) to actually work. Oil consumption in my 90 went down almost completely. its a viscous liquid.. why not use it if it helps stop leaks? Obviously it isn't repairing the rings or valve seats.. who gives a crap though.. unless you NEED the engine to last the next 15 years.. why bother?
-
why not use it if it helps stop leaks?
Repair fixes leaks.
-
why not use it if it helps stop leaks?
Repair fixes leaks.
Repair is not usually a $4 bottle though. If the motor were new.. and i just invested several thousand in to it to last me.. i could understand repairing it.. and i would repair it if it was feasible.. but that $4 bottle that will lower my oil consumption over doing a bottom end.. ill take the bottle. IMHO, Time is money to me, time working on cars is time not making money at work. easier to use additives, and swap the engine when it pops. I follow the disposable way of life. lol
-
A $4 bottle won't fix leaks. If viscosity is your goal, use 15W50 or mix gear oil with it.
-
A $4 bottle won't fix leaks. If viscosity is your goal, use 15W50 or mix gear oil with it.
I will thank-you. :) How much gear oil would you say to mix with? and what weight gear oil?
-
I like Lucas Oil Stabilizer, up to 30% of the oil.
-
I like Lucas Oil Stabilizer, up to 30% of the oil.
I have used it in much smaller doses.. I will try it. Maybe 3 liters 15w40 oil, 1 liter Lucas stabilizer.
-
30% is the recommended maximum for the lucas stabilizer, I am running 50% right now in a 300,000 mile gasser right now to keep the oil in it.
seems to be doing alright, probably not the best for it, but the motor is on its last legs anyway, and I have a diesel freshly rebuilt to put into it in a month or so.
the lucas is good stuff, thickens the oil, and supposedly keeps the engine surfaces coated when the motor is shut down reducing wear on initial startup.
-
dont worry about it owen, my cousin used to have an S10, and it had MANY bad rod bearings. and it had been heatsiezed many times. the last 5 or 6 oil changes were PURE Lucas oil stabilizer. it ran like that untill the day he over revved it really bad and launched 3 rods through the side of the engine.
-
Lucas Oil Stabilizer
Pure Junk. If you use that you might as well pour gear oil in your crankcase, it would lubricate better than that molasses.
-
Lucas Oil Stabilizer
Pure Junk. If you use that you might as well pour gear oil in your crankcase, it would lubricate better than that molasses.
im not saying your statement is falce, but if it is such junk, why do they sell soo many bottles of it, and what makes it so bad? personal experience or something?
-
Lucas Oil Stabilizer
Pure Junk. If you use that you might as well pour gear oil in your crankcase, it would lubricate better than that molasses.
Pure Junk? Well maybe. Most of these products work as advertised. The proper use is to pour it in junk. My Volvo D24 benefits from the thicker products because they improve compression. I know this because I get less misfires. Runs smoother. My plan for the car is an overhauled D24T. In the mean time with the current engine it helps. To each his own though. If we could get someone to try molasses and it works I'll go for that. might be cheaper
-
I say its better than gear oil.
any car you put it in is burning oil, and will continue to do so.
a car that is burning gear oil smells like the bad and of a garbage truck, the lucas does not reek like gear oil.
worth the extra few bucks I think
-Owen
-
i actually run lucas in every oil change in my toyota pickup. its the only stock V6 i have ever seen that will spin up to 8 grand and live to see another day. im not saying lucas is the sole reason behind it spinning 8,000 rpms, but im sure it helps. and my engine is not hardly worn at all. it uses less than a quart in 5000 mi.
-
I use it liberally on each oil change and in between when it dips a tad on the dipstick.
It helps a lot with my oil burning 1.7 for sure :)
-
but if it is such junk, why do they sell soo many bottles of it, and what makes it so bad?
To put it politely, there are a LOT of gullible customers out there that fall for marketing and "testimonials". Intake swirlers, fuel line magnets and "hydrogen generators" have been proven not work at all (detrimental to MPG and performance in fact), yet countless numbers of them are sold every day.
i actually run lucas in every oil change in my toyota pickup. its the only stock V6 i have ever seen that will spin up to 8 grand and live to see another day.
My grandpa has a Toyota truck with over 250,000 miles and a "custom made" wood stake bed that he uses to haul and pull pretty much everything on his 90 acres. I lost count how many times we loaded that thing to the the axle travel stops and more. Its been running strong for the last 15 years with only regular 10w40 oil changes and two clutch swaps.
-
I will say again, lucas is better than gear oil because it does not make your car smell horrible when burned.
-
To put it politely, there are a LOT of gullible customers out there that fall for marketing and "testimonials". Intake swirlers, fuel line magnets and "hydrogen generators" have been proven not work at all (detrimental to MPG and performance in fact), yet countless numbers of them are sold every day.
This is not an intake swirler, magnet or hydro generator, it is simply thicker oil.
I use it and I do get slightly higher oil pressure.
I might have been gullible and fell for it the first time, but then I found that it helps so I use it and it's not called gullible anymore........you've made your point.
-
Oh My 617 reasons for an ignore button...to put it politely, could you wash the sand out of your labia? It seems you might be trying to help, but come across as abrasive in most every post. Please help me understand your method as I don't get it and am in no way the most polite person either. I bet you have lots to offer...
In all seriousness some people use Lucas and engine restore and it helps. They are additives and unless you are running crude oil, according to your sig line your using Mobil 1, all of todays oils are refined and have an additive package. Not all oils have the same additive package and even if they do not all have the same proportions. The Lucas and similar products are just another additive that may or may not help a certain car's performance, it all depends on what that car needs/wants from its oil.
Gear oil is too thick for most cars crankcase. In gasoline cars people have twisted dizzy gears and tweaked oil pump driveshafts running it in high concentrations similar to the Lucas product. In my opinion that would make the Lucas better than 90w and molassas.
-
This is not an intake swirler, magnet or hydro generator, it is simply thicker oil.
Then use thicker oil.
I use it and I do get slightly higher oil pressure.
Was there an issue in the first place?
Please help me understand your method as I don't get it and am in no way the most polite person either.
Reality isn't nice. I get right to the point without fluffy, happy, imagination-land screwing around bullspit padding.
The Lucas and similar products are just another additive that may or may not help a certain car's performance
Except, the additives used in your engine oil are designed to work with that specific oil. Lucas is like Microsoft's Windows; they must attempt to work with every brand, viscosity range and type of oil on the market as well as every engine model and operating condition with one single offering (Sounds exactly like the advertisements for those fuel line magnets and "hydrogen generators to me!). What you end up with is something that works, but not very well. That results in things like this: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm)
"Ah, but engines don't have gears like that test!"
You have oil squirting out of every orifice inside the engine. Bearings, valve lifters, piston jets, blowby and the crankshaft whipping around. All of which vaporize oil and whip up with air. Its the reason the CCV system needs an oil separator. Engine oil has additives specifically to prevent foaming, but as shown in the link above, Lucas can conflict with the oil's additives and counteract some very important features. Foaming is only something we can see, many other things like shear resistance and soot load capacity can be affected as well.
-
The Lucas and similar products are just another additive that may or may not help a certain car's performance, it all depends on what that car needs/wants from its oil.
If you read my post I didn't say it was a cure all for all oils. Certain engines may want more of certain additives. I know for a fact the Mobil 1 will foam with Lucas in it. That guys link looked like a schaffers oil add and didn't have proof of what was actually happening. He said air was being introduced and it may be, but he had nothing to show what was going on in a molecular level. Something happend but we have no idea what that was other than what the pics showed as a color change.
I have talked to a formulator for union 76 and he has said that the best idea for for oil would be to blend every oil together that is rated for your engine and use that. Why? He said since all oil companies use different additive packages to get all in one oil has tested the best. But his testing was only done at the 76 labratory and probably isn't as tech friendly as an electric motor with some gears and pics.
My point is your not cool. You could have said 50 different ways Lucas oil additive is not good, but you my friend took the high ground. By "getting right to the point" saying "pure junk might as well run gear oil..." you are being attacking not helping and a total anus in my opinion. That is why I was hoping you could get the sand out of your crack and contribute, I thought if I spoke your language you might understand...but you didn't.
I am done with reading anything you have to post and this thread.
-
why does there always have to be sand in someones vagina? it bothers me, why cant we just be happy and talk about going faster in our diesels.
-
Can't we all just get along? ???
-
Can't we all just get along? ???
What fun would that be?
-
Can't we all just get along? ???
What fun would that be?
True... ;)
-
it bothers me, why cant we just be happy and talk about going faster in our diesels.
Fantasy is exactly that.
-
I've been using Schaeffer's synthetic for the last 50,000 miles.
Pulled the injectors yesterday and did a compression test.
#1----540 psi
#2----500 psi
#3----450 psi
#4----550 psi
Engine warm, 20 engine revoultions.
I know #3's a little low, but I'm still happy with the results.
I will continue using their products.
Cheers,
-JB
-
I've been using Schaeffer's synthetic for the last 50,000 miles.
Pulled the injectors yesterday and did a compression test.
#1----540 psi
#2----500 psi
#3----450 psi
#4----550 psi
Engine warm, 20 engine revoultions.
I know #3's a little low, but I'm still happy with the results.
I will continue using their products.
Cheers,
-JB
How is your compression higher than a new engine is supposed to be? :o
-
I'm just tell'in ya that's what the gauge said. Fairly new tester used twice.
Schaffer Oil is one of the pioneers of Molybnemun technology.
The Facts
Moly E.P. Oil Treatment (#132) is a highly fortified extreme pressure engine oil treatment containing a highly specialized additive package. When used at the recommended treatment rate, this additive package provides the following performance benefits:
1. Increased compression through better ring seal.
2. A reduction in oil consumption.
3. Elimination of sticking valves and lifters.
4. Reduced blow-by.
5. Increased oil pressure.
6. A reduction in engine friction and wear.
7. Increased power.
8. Better viscosity control.
9. Extreme pressure protection of the engine bearings, valve train, and pistons and piston rings.
To complement this highly specialized additive package a proven frictional modifier, Micron MolyŽ is further blended into the oil treatment. Micron MolyŽ is a liquid soluble type of moly that plates to the metal surfaces of the engine. Once plated, the moly forms a long lasting lubricant film in which prevents the metal surfaces from coming into contact with each other. By preventing metal to metal contact, damaging frictional wear is eliminated, which leads to less downtime and longer equipment life.
Maybe my gauge is built be rockwell International ;D
-
How is your compression higher than a new engine is supposed to be? :o
Plugged rings?
The Facts
blah blah blah blah salesman crap
Those are the exact same claims of every single engine oil and additive maker.
-
How would I know if the rings are plugged?
I guess I bought into the "snake oil" that they're selling. Haven't seen a down side yet. It's in the same price range as Mobile One. I guess I'm the guinea pig, we'll see how it goes.
-
i've used wynn's stop oil burning stuff before. it worked for me and i was happy. engine was burning a lot of oil previously and was a bit low on power. the oil thickening stuff does just that... thickens the oil. i didn't even think of changing the oil for the cold season and got stuck when the temps hit -20C. i had to change the oil at my buddies to synthetic, and then she ran just fine after that and miraculously the oil burning went down a lot.
it's my own observation that people who cut down engine additives are the same ones who trash talk alternative energies and or free energies. all oil is the same right? no oil will help out your engine right? wrong... synthetic IS better than dino. SOME additives ARE better than others. just look at zinc! ZDDP additive is a great idea to add to your crankcase. i've tried wynn's metaloil and it did make a difference. i know most people demand numbers and factual evidence, but i can only say that my car started easier in the cold weather (judged by me by knowing what my car is like in the colder weather... how's that for a control?)
but i will agree that teflon has no place inside of an engine. that stuff is just terrible. however moly is good.
-
it's my own observation that people who cut down engine additives are the same ones who trash talk alternative energies and or free energies
Right, its known as "not being gullible".
ZDDP additive is a great idea to add to your crankcase.
No its not. Thats why you seek out oil hat has high levels of it from the start.
-
As in many other oil related items, zinc is not a hard and fast across the board "improvement". It was removed from oils for gasoline engines primarily for emissions issues (sensors). There have been some concerns raised about compatibility with aluminum components but I have seen statements from some oil reps that at the levels seen in diesel oil it is not an issue. Probably does not come with a money back guarantee though. The following is a statement from a diesel oil spec sheet: Because this product contains zinc additives, it should not be used in engines employing silver bearings. so that is one other possible issue.
http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/index.html (http://www.hotrod.com/pitstop/hrdp_0702_pitstop_zinc_oil_additive/index.html)
-
it's my own observation that people who cut down engine additives are the same ones who trash talk alternative energies and or free energies
Right, its known as "not being gullible".
You're gullible for believing the lies from the oil companies and the ones who run the world. Free energy is absolutely possible. The problem is that certain 'laws' created by MEN were meant to intentionally discredit devices that created more energy than was input. Of course there are those looking to scam people to make a quick buck, and they do a good job at tarnishing the reputation of the true free energy devices. Ever heard of the 300mpg car? That was a myth right? Wrong...
And as far as I'm concerned, you're no expert so your opinion is of little to no relevance to me. I hereby classify you in the same category as those deceived into thinking that the H1N1 shot is 'safe'. Don't like the truth? Tough!
If you're happy with the way things are and addicted to oil, then congrats. I myself am not content with oil and know that there are solutions hidden right under our noses, and that we were conditioned to believe that they are impossible to achieve. Unlike you, I'm doing something about my situation in this world and trying to contribute to society something worthwhile. You can't debunk free energy without first experimenting. Anyone can shoot off their mouths spewing disinformation about the truth, but it's another breed of person that actually tests things...
The secret for free energy is in utilizing permanent magnets, switches, and coils (Idea by the Tesla switch). By utilizing both poles of a permanent magnet and alternating them between two separate coils using a microprocessor controlling MOSFETs, allows electrons to flow in an alternating waveform, thereby creating a single phase output. The power that you can achieve is only limited by the size of both the permanent magnets, the length of the wire, and the size of the wire. Thanks to modern day circuitry, the MOSFET controller board consumes a fraction of the energy created by the device. I will link a video below that demonstrates the concept.
Permanent magnet generator with no relative motion between magnet and coil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HI5ERdvroec#)
Sorry for the off topic response, but just thought I would put OM in his place.
-
Let's try and keep the personal attacks out of the discussion please.