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General Information => General => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on November 04, 2009, 08:02:38 pm
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;)
So i just picked up an 81 with a lot of road under her belt :o 408,000kms to be exact
I was wondering, what are some good tips for winter reliability in starting a diesel?
I will most likely be swapping out the Glowplugs, and running a Big Battery (from my old F-350),I was thinking of even going as far as to have the starter rebuilt to ensure I have maximum cranking power! ( or is that over board !? ) lol
Now it has been a while since I delved in to the timing of an IP. I remember how and all, but I don't clearly remember what. More advanced makes for more power and more emissions.. Does retarding make for Easier starts? or was that also an advantage of advancing? Because the cold start lever "Advances" the pump manually right.. Oooh I just had a revelation! lol More advanced is pretty much good all around, screw the tree huggers lol.
If i Time it to the higher realms of N/a timing.. say 0.039" or 1.00mm would that suffice in helping me out all around? the car was owned by an older male who has done all the work on it since new.. and im sure it has been kept timed at the stock setting of an N/a 0.88mm :'(
Early Chassis: (1977-1983)
1.5l non-turbo 1977-1980 0.88 +/- 0.05 mm
1.5l non-turbo 1980 with yellow dot 1.15 +/- 0.05 mm
1.6l non-turbo 1981, 1982, and 1983 pickup 0.88 +/- 0.05 mm
1.6l non-turbo 1983 Rabbit and Jetta 0.95 +/- 0.05 mm
1.6l non-turbo 1983 Vanagon 0.90 +/- 0.05 mm
1.6l tubo diesel (1982-1983) 1.00 +/- 0.05 mm
Why on earth was a 1.5 N/a in 1980 factory timed to 1.15!? isnt that insanely advanced!? like even for performance turbo engines?
Would I be safe to advance my 81 1.6 to 1.05mm? or would that be too much advance and really not doing anything more than 1.00mm would? ???
Many performance tuners use the following:
- non-turbo pumps: 0.95mm to 1.00 mm (0.037" - 0.039")
- turbo pumps: 1.00mm to 1.05mm (0.039" - 0.041")
What other tips do you guys have for happy Dieseling during the winter months?
oh btw, where I live it will be winter from mid November-April.. I love Canada ;D ;D :D :D
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What other tips do you guys have for happy Dieseling during the winter months?
Buy a Prius..... :o
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I would run a nice synthetic oil at least for the winter months. It really helps with cranking speeds and saves wear on your engine during cold starts. 8)
Just beware if the engine is full of sludge or has been neglected...
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The issue I had with my jetta in the winter was the handling. Front of the car goes where you point it, but the rear end was all over the place.
The 88 F150 4x4 is my winter rig for that reason.
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Block heater, oil pan heater and your good to go :D
If the timing is too far advanced it'll crank slower due to injecting sooner. A nice big battery will help.
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Timing is also affected by stuff like pre-combustion chamber size, squish area, compression, compression ratio, etc. etc.
All good tips so far. If you are in an extremely cold area (regularly below -35C), you might also want to toss in a battery warmer. Make sure to pack a winter survival kit if you do a lot of secondary road commuting.
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I'm in Cambridge, only a little warmer than Orillia. I have done nothing the past couple years other than making sure I had good glowplugs, good battery (I'm partial to Interstate - don't use Exide) and use a good synthetic engine oil. No problems so far, but now that I've put it down in writing I'm sure that will change in short order.
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Take your starter out and regrease the inside. Also make sure the connections to the starter are tip top!
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move south ;)
mine starts everyday all winter no problem. Of course we get less than a week of below freezing days here. ;D
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I put a tarp on my work truck to keep the wind out of the engine bay and off the oil pan. That being said, I run a lighter oil in the winter, have a block heater, oil pan heater and a battery blanket. On really cold nights, I try to get the truck inside and if that isn't possible I make sure it is out of the wind, and that all the heaters are plugged in. Once at a bush camp I even had a coleman heater running under the block all night.
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move south ;)
mine starts everyday all winter no problem. Of course we get less than a week of below freezing days here. ;D
Dude, i would kill myself if I didn't get my fix of WINTER lol.. seriously I get like atleast 6 months of below freezing temps :)
I put a tarp on my work truck to keep the wind out of the engine bay and off the oil pan. That being said, I run a lighter oil in the winter, have a block heater, oil pan heater and a battery blanket. On really cold nights, I try to get the truck inside and if that isn't possible I make sure it is out of the wind, and that all the heaters are plugged in. Once at a bush camp I even had a coleman heater running under the block all night.
I have heard of crazy people (such as you T-bay'ers lol) running Colemans under their pans. I don't think I will get this car on the road before the snow flies :( the brakes just started to get soft, and go to the floor and not stop the car, ****! I haven't had a chance to get under and see what the dealio is yet.. but i assume a pin hole in a line.. as i got a few good drives out of it before this happened.. and it stopped good up until then.
I also dunno if I quite want the hassle this year or not of it not starting on me one morning when i need it too you know? I am pretty much undecided! I love diesel but.. argghh lol
WWJD?
I have a block heater, oil pan heater and a battery blanket.
Those sound nice :) I am not sure if this engine has a block heater or not.. I wasn't really looking.. but what diesel owner wouldn't have one from factory especially in CANADA!? Is a pan heater pretty much the exact same thing as a block heater? but instead it heats the oil up in the bottom of the pan for faster lubrication? Also a battery blanket, is this too also run from an outside power source?
I just thought of something! Take those three things, and even add in a small trickle charger that when plugged in provides the battery with like 1-2amp. Have all these four components (Block heater, Pan heater, Battery blanket, and Trickle charger) wired together so when you plug in the one plug hanging over your headlight (lol) it turns on all of them. Your engine will think it is 90F :) How does that sound? any flaws you can see to this? Oh also set it on a timer, 2-3 hours before you leave in the morning.. and then just leave it plugged in at work all day (because you don't pay for it there lol)
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While I do think it would work, and is a good idea, I think it is a bit of an overkill. I've always got my diesels going with nothing more than the block heater/coolant heater even in -45* weather. :)
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Those sound nice :) I am not sure if this engine has a block heater or not.. I wasn't really looking.. but what diesel owner wouldn't have one from factory especially in CANADA!? Is a pan heater pretty much the exact same thing as a block heater? but instead it heats the oil up in the bottom of the pan for faster lubrication? Also a battery blanket, is this too also run from an outside power source?
I just thought of something! Take those three things, and even add in a small trickle charger that when plugged in provides the battery with like 1-2amp. Have all these four components (Block heater, Pan heater, Battery blanket, and Trickle charger) wired together so when you plug in the one plug hanging over your headlight (lol) it turns on all of them. Your engine will think it is 90F :) How does that sound? any flaws you can see to this? Oh also set it on a timer, 2-3 hours before you leave in the morning.. and then just leave it plugged in at work all day (because you don't pay for it there lol)
A pan heater is a little pad that sticks to the bottom of the pan, a block heater goes in one of the frost plug holes.
I've heard battery blankets will shorten the life of the battery due to boiling, I would pick the trickle charger over the battery blanket......
I have mine setup so the oil pan heater and block heater connect to one cord and I use a timer. Works perty good, so far down to -54F. ;D
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starter starter starter... for the longest time i thought my battery was crap. turned out to be that the starter was on its way out (for about 2 years :D) it was almost night and day comparison!
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The trick with the battery blanket is to put a thin layer of insulation between the blanket and battery. I used some 1/4"plywood to shield the battery. Its also plugged into a timer, so it doesn't get used for long periods when its cold.
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Yo guys what up!?
Got a lot done this weekend.
Took the old pump off and checked the timing before I did so. Got a weird reading of 0.041".. which was weird for how it was running. I later found out the cold start was pulled out.. IDIOT!
While i had the old pump off i took the time to remove the old and burnt out looking Gp's and installed my nice new Bosch Duraterm's I wired them "Vince" style and it looks super clean, and works super well. Terminated the fuse bus on the driver side shock tower and have the solenoid located on the driver side frame rail. nice and discrete .
Speaking of the old pump.. I don't exactly know what is considered a lot of pump shaft play lol. I mean you can move the shaft back and forth.. but whats a lot? Some have suggested using it as a practice pump.. I mean i could do that.. but maybe there is a way to get some money out of it? what would it sell for?
Got the '91 pump on and timed to 0.040" Runs great! and nearly completely got rid of the smoke while running! I think I am now pro at putting on a t-belt and timing the engine now.. as i had to do it three times on the last engine before i got it right.. got it first try with this engine! I was sooo proud of myself . THIS THING RUNS LIKE A TOP!
The loud audible "CLUNK" of the solenoid can easily be heard from inside the cabin, which makes it good for knowing if the gp's are actually firing. Wired it up to a nice red toggle switch on the dash for some awesome after glow.. it really does help with cold running. started amazingly!
Started on the brakes today.. and the one thing i forgot to order, I NEED. Wheel cylinders.. I figured i could get away with the old ones... seals are toast and the bleeder screw broke off! DARNNIT. SO i will get them and some smaller tubing for the injector return lines (as the ones i have leak a little bit) and it will be good to go hopefully lol. Also need to do the pump head seal.. but at least it runs, and the pump only drips every 5 seconds.. lol And oddly enough it doesn't drip on the hoses lol it drips on the back pump bracket and drains down the block.. but that causes the engine to steam/smoke with the burning diesel lol .
I guess I will experiment with the old pump, maybe try out the Governor Mod. Try out replacing some seals so I can do it on the pump in the car later !
I HATE DOING BRAKE JOBS.
I need some good techniques for loosening the bleeder screws on the calipers..the brake fluid is black so i want to swap it out with some fresh Dot 4 stuff.
Ughh.. I also broke the rear brake line.. right at the connector for the wheel cylinder.. like WTH I think I will stick to engine work.. it ALWAYS works out for me! anything else never does.. lol What do i do? Can i just get new fittings and re-flare the old lines? I think that should work.. anyone know the size of the brake line fittings?
sorry FOR BLABBING. thanks guys lol.
Before:
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091634a-1.jpg)
After:
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1130091342.jpg)
notice my pretty GP wiring :P SCORE!
Have a nice night fella's lol
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Had I been thinking I should have shipped you one of my junk IP's when I sent the goodie box up that way.. I have several that have been sitting dry in the back of a parts car with no plugs in them... I'm pretty sure they are crap by now... Take your time, read up, they actually aren;t hideously bad to reseal.. I managed with only the diagram that you posted on vortex.. I didn;t properly mark the smoke screw, but with a bit of drive and tweek it was good...
I've pretty much gotten to the point that when I buy another VW it gets wheel cylinders right off.. Those tiny little bleeders take nothing to break off..
You may be better off getting a section of pre made brake line.. Carquest and Napa carries the stuff.. VW uses a "bubble flare" which takes either a special tool, or some finesse with a double flaring tool.. A fitting that fits the wheel cyl and 3/16" brake line will work.. Brokevw has a writeup on the flares here http://www.brokevw.com/flare.html (http://www.brokevw.com/flare.html)
Bleeder screws..
Soak the living crap outta them with PB Blaster or equivelant.. Find a six point socket that fits them well (I forget the size, 7mm??) If they round off, or are already rounded, get the vice grips.. Slightly turn the bleeder as if you were tightening it.. Don't go He-Man on the wrench, just slightly and gently.. This'll sometimes break the rust loose. Then give it a try, gently! If it feels like it's gonna twist off repeat above steps... Heat is an option, but a last resort.. Don't wanna nuke the piston seals.. And the bleeders are rather tiny.. Too much heat and they twist off rather quick..
Once you get them loose, screw them the whole way out and clean the threads on the bleeder screw.. If you have some never-seize go ahead and use it, just make sure you install the never-siezed bleeder before you do your final brake bleeding so as to make sure there is non of that stuff floating in the brake system...
Worse case scenario, drill and easy out.. But remember, drill bits and easy outs are brass.... ;D
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One other thing.. IF you have some means, suck the old fluid out of the master cyl.. Well, at least what you can.. That way you won;t be flushing all the crap in there though the system..
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So I opted against bleeding all the fluid out because it was a waste of time at the moment, and sure to raise things that would hinder my progress.
The brakes work and they work good.. but you gotta press like you got 4 wheel manual drums lol! I was bombing it around some logging roads for about three hours today.. fuel gauge barely moved.. I LOVE IT that woulda sucked alotta fuel in my gasser. I was doing quite a few Italian tune-ups lol
I think I will practice the governor mod on the old pump.. and try re-sealing some stuff see how that all goes. then try it on the other pump when i know what the hell im doin right lol
Sadly however the car is parked till spring. i didnt get it all done in time.. I mean I could very well be driving it.. but im not ready to give up my luxuries that are in my other mk1.. lol
mk2 seats, mk3 wiper motor, in trunk lights (super idea), stereo, subs, fog lights, rad fan switch... i mean i could switch it all over.. but then what happens when it doesnt start right.. ? I mean the gasser has never given me one problem.. so i guess ill go diesel in the spring lol.