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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: 8v-of-fury on November 01, 2009, 08:50:35 am
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...since I've posted diesel related questions :P
I recently acquired an 81 Jetta Diesel from a fellow forum member, car runs pretty good for having just over 400k on it ;)
Now my questions are related to fuel lines. The clear OEM feed line from filter to pump had a big hole in two spots so i ripped it off and used some outboard boat lines for now (just temporary), However I believe they are still allowing air in.
Question is what size diameter tube needs to go there? also what size is used for the returns between each injector?
Thanks alot guys!
Pics for Kicks :P
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/HPIM1537.jpg)
You just gotta love the SHAG SEAT COVERS!! lmaooo
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Nice Car Man,
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For the return lines between the injectors the vw shop in my town gave me this very thick tubing with a cloth covering... It wasn't cheap either. Like $10/foot or something. 1/4 might work or you could try and ram 1/8 over it? but they get really hot which is the issue...
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I think the line for injector returns is 1.9mm ID.. I've used 3/16" clear vinyl tubing but it doesn't like the heat so much.. I got some chainsaw fuel line that was better at taking heat, but not real cheap..
I know the regular cloth covered stuff isn;t too terribly expensive ($1.10 / foot), but watch out for the cheap china crap as usual... If you need I went on a binge and bought a 20 meter roll of the Meyle injector return line.. It's gonna last me forever I think..
CHeck out this thread for your inlet line if you would like to keep it clear.. Otherwise a good quality fuel hose (rated for fuel injection), or better yet low pressure hydraulic line works dandy...
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Injector return line is 3mm. You can get it from the dealer fairly cheap, as you only need a couple of feet. Last time I went in and asked for it, the VW parts guy gave me a piece for free!
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Injector return line is 3mm.
Yes, that's it! The 1.9mm is for something else... (But if you want some of that I have tons of that too) And yes I've gotten it for free from the dealer and other vendors as well.. Generally helps though if you are buying something else at the time..
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;)
Thanks everyone! Hmm words or pics first? PICTURES!!
Runs pretty good with over 400,000KMS! ;p (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09kgQGoU8FA#)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091446.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091634.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091634a.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091634b.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091635.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1101091706.jpg)
(http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/mm307/J_holubek/1102091132.jpg)
OK SO! where to start? that one pic it is super smokey because I am running an ATF, 2 Stroke mixture :P at the time. Few questions off the top of the head.. when I had the car running of either the bottle of ATF or the Jerry can of diesel it ran fine and would sit there and run all day. As soon as i hooked it back up to the cars fuel lines it would only run if i kept priming the it myself while running with the little primer ball. If not it would stumble to a deathly low stutter and eventually shut down. This can be combated by keeping the engine at about 3/8ths throttle and not needing to pump the ball. I figured maybe it was the filter after the ball, so i took that out.. still does it. Either it is the ball itself providing a restriction at idle.. or the lines are gummed up..? When holding it in the higher revs it runs great.. not like it is sucking in any air or anything.. which is weird..
Also it has little bullet style fuses.. where in the hell do i get those!? The car had AC so it has that whole ac is selected on the slider and the rad fan comes on which i thought was really freaking cool! I replaced the fuse for the fan with another fuse from an unused spot because it was all melted looking.. and then the fan would be on regardless of selector position when the cabin fan was on. I don't think it was doing it today to be honest... (as in acting normal...)
The car seems to run reasonably well! I mean for having over 400k on the old girl.. its doing quite good! I was driving it up and down the road.. and I was definitely doing 65mph in 4th gear and it didn't sound like it was screaming too too badly.. this excites the CRAP out of me! What tall transmissions came in 81 diesel jetta's?!?
AND HONESTLY WHO THE HELL DOES AN ANTENNAE DELETE!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Tell me your guys thoughts :)
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Well, keep the shag covers. It gives it that uniqueness...lol
Glad it runs well. Looks great for a 28 year old car with all those Canadian winters. Didn't see a lot (if any) rust on it.
What's with the Cordoba? I had a 77 and loved it. Best riding car I ever drove.
Good luck with it.
Stay safe, stay well. Jimmy.
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Looks like canyon brown (LE8Y). Great color. I had a 1980 Caddy with the same color. I put a Callaway stage 2 turbo setup (gasoline) on it back in 1983 but I bet a TD or TDI setup could match the performance 'now a days'. I still have the tailgate from that pick-up. I have a 1982 Rabbit 1.6D (CR) with an early FN 5 speed (.75 5th?) and I get 68 MPH @ 3000 rpm. I have another (MF) 1.6TD with the later .71 5th gear and 3.89 gearbox attached that is supposed to be 73MPH @ 3000rpm. I need to install it soon. I found a 1985 Jetta instrument cluster with the Tach and installed/modified the wiring and connectors to the 82 rabbit. Might be a good swap for you if you need a tach. Look for a later car with a Diesel Tachometer and the alt with a 'W' terminal
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"The car seems to run reasonably well! I mean for having over 400k on the old girl.. its doing quite good! I was driving it up and down the road.. and I was definitely doing 65mph in 4th gear and it didn't sound like it was screaming too too badly.. this excites the CRAP out of me! What tall transmissions came in 81 diesel jetta's?!?"
bob gauff
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You should be able to find the Euro style fuses anywhere, ie Can-tire, Wal-mart, any autoparts store.
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I agree with fdnyguy, Keep the Hot Shag seat covers...I wish I had a set... ;D,
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Catlin, Stop being Jealous of everything you don't have! lol
What are your guys ideas on what to do about the antenna delete? Put a new one in the fender? keep it hidden? I like that idea.. how well will it work though is the question? lol The awesome tape deck works and the 80's pioneers sound pretty good blastin the Bee-Gee's lol
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OK SO! where to start? that one pic it is super smokey because I am running an ATF, 2 Stroke mixture :P at the time. Few questions off the top of the head.. when I had the car running of either the bottle of ATF or the Jerry can of diesel it ran fine and would sit there and run all day. As soon as i hooked it back up to the cars fuel lines it would only run if i kept priming the it myself while running with the little primer ball. If not it would stumble to a deathly low stutter and eventually shut down. This can be combated by keeping the engine at about 3/8ths throttle and not needing to pump the ball. I figured maybe it was the filter after the ball, so i took that out.. still does it. Either it is the ball itself providing a restriction at idle.. or the lines are gummed up..? When holding it in the higher revs it runs great.. not like it is sucking in any air or anything.. which is weird..
The fuel lines in these cars has no pressure until it gets into the injection pump. Otherwise the pump is sucking from the tank. Check the fuel lines for cracking or wet areas. The water separator under the car is know to cause problems in MK2's. I don't know if MK1's have them (they most likely do) but it's something to check. The common fix is to bypass it altogether. It should be near the passenger's side rear wheel.
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The water separator under the car is know to cause problems in MK2's. I don't know if MK1's have them (they most likely do) but it's something to check. The common fix is to bypass it altogether. It should be near the passenger's side rear wheel.
I don't think mk1's have the separator.. I've never found it on my bunny anyways..........
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I have not seen any Mk1's with them either.
I know there is no positive pressure on the fuel lines (Pushing), but there is negative pressure (Pulling) and I think the lines are clogged.. there is bad diesel, or a combo of the two. The car will not run properly when it is hooked up to the lines from the tank, but will run all day long on the bottle of newer diesel under the hood. SO either the lines are not allowing sufficient fueling.. or the fuel is gone to crap.
But why would keeping a manual prime on the primer ball keep the engine running correctly? if it were bad fuel or a clogged line? I mean how much pressure does the IP actually make while it is sucking from the tank? 3 psi? maybe? little enough to be clogged by a very small thing i'm sure? I was thinking of finding some cheap rubber fuel line to run from the tank forward for the supply.. and then utilize one of the hardlines for the return as to not raise the cost of this too much.
Anyone know where in Ontario they have the cheapest diesel safe rubber fuel lines? :)
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It could even just be crud in the tank gunking up the works.. Chances are, though, the rubber parts of your lines ain;t what they used to be either way...
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You could pull some fuel from the tank and run the engine off this fuel in a separate container. If it runs then you'll know the fuel is good.
I'd pull the fuel level sender from the tank and see if the screen is clogged. Disconnect the fuel lines from the pump and fuel tank and blow air in them. You'll know if they are clogged.
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So guys I was talking to the PO, and it turns out that the ODO stopped working like 10-12 years ago and that 410k is more like 700-750k! :o HOLY CRAP!!! Get this.. ALL ORIGINAL... EVERYTHING!!!
Explain this to me.. how does an engine that's this old and used run this well? i mean you get no run-on (or the diesel equivalent) after you kill the fuel solenoid the engine stops it doesn't turn over again or anything.. ITS TIGHT!
I am ordering a good set of parts for the girl tonight :)
Oil pressure sensor Seal Ring, Timing Belt and Tensioner, Mann Oil Filter, Valve Cover Gasket, Brake Shoe's, Brake hardware Kit, Injector Heat Shields, Duraterm Glow Plugs
Subtotal: $148.88
Shipping: FREE!
Order Total: $148.88
Getting it saftied shortly there after, and hopefully on the road as soon as possible! YESS AWESOME.
What should I look out for with an engine with this amount of mileage?!? lol
Anything else you can think of I may need before i send this order in?
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Check the oil pressure and compression. If it's good and it runs well then the engine is healthy. At 700k I'm be more worried about the 020 tranny crapping out than the engine :D :D
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Check the oil pressure and compression. If it's good and it runs well then the engine is healthy. At 700k I'm be more worried about the 020 tranny crapping out than the engine :D :D
Yeah really eh, I hope it doesn't crap out its an FF!! 3.89 final and .71 5th! lol I have two others.. but there an AWY and a 4K 3.94 final and .89 5th... :( lol
it runs extremely well for how many kms i now know are on it! lol
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Well that was weird...
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Well that was weird...
I agree lol
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what the hell..? lol
why was that even in this post?
where is it now? did u delete it tyler?
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I actually did an antenna delete on purpose. On my last vanagon some punks broke one off and on this one it was falling apart on it's own. I got tired of the wind noise and the visual distraction.
I got a solid one, bent it a little, and installed it across the top of the windshield inside under the visors.
I used a couple little sections of fuel line for bushings, plastic clips around those screwed into the stock holes of the sunvisor clips. The lead is black and dissapears next to the windscreen seal on the right side as it goes down to the corner of the dash.
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I might just do that Vanagoner, it sounds like a very nice and seamless install! do you have any pics by chance?
So i was working on the car last night (parts came in! :) ) and i tore it all down and started getting it ready.
I will be running my slightly leaking pump (Tyler I need a head o-ring, while i remember!.. ill pm you) from the 91 engine, as it has the fast idle when you have the cold start lever out and does not have shaft play. Which reminds me.. what can be done about pumps with side-to-side shaft play? are they garbage? or what?
while i had the pump out, i took the time to put my new gp's in and get them all wired up and lookin' pretty. got the new pump back in, just needs to have the new tensioner and belt, and be timed. For this being my first in-car timing.. how are you supposed to get the tensioner off the stud? only way i could do it , was to double nut the stud from the engine.. no biggy.. will make getting the new belt on like 6 million times easier as well.
I checked the timing before i removed the old pump to find that it was at 0.041" .. which surprised me because that is like 1.05mm.. i later found out that my cold start was out... IDIOT! so i presume that the timing was somewhere around 0.038" or 0.037" depending on how much the cold start advances the timing.. it ran really well at idle with the cold start valve out at the 0.041" setting. So I will probably re-time it back at 0.040"-0.041" as it seemed to like it there. The car started fairly well being set where it was with the cold start.. so i think a little more advance. maybe bring the timing up 3 degrees. 0.041" to keep the cold start advance at 0.043-4" see how it works.. if not tear it down.. redo. lol
I still have to change the oil, check the coolant, new air filter, back brakes, e brake cables, and.... Wire in the dash switch for the gp's and change some light-bulbs to get my signals working lol
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i had the same problem and unhooked the fuel line at the tank and at the filter and blew some low psi air through the line. it was amazing what came out. ran fine after that