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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: ryanp on August 16, 2009, 08:19:25 am
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I'm looking at building an engine to go into my Mk2 van, I'll have some time over the winter when being underneath a car outside is the last thing on my mind! I've put together a rough spec:
1Y N/A engine
15mm Block Girdle
Balanced and Turned down IM shaft with new bearings
Drilled and tapped oil return
TDI Crank
Hybrid Pump - 11mm head, Rover aneroid pin, Governer Mod
New GTD injector nozzles Balanced and pressure tested
Inline under bonnet lift pump
PD Fuel cooler
Gt2256 VNT Turbo with machanical linkage and Adjustable boost controller
2.5 down pipe with Flexi and Heat wrap
Stainless 2.5 straight through exhaust
1Y inlet (or PD150 LH/RH dependant on access)
large Front mount intercooler
2 Alloy boost hoses
Silicone hump hoses with stainless clamps
GTD Air Filter with cold air feed
2.0T Filler cap CCV
Blocked Elephant hose
Passat AFN Oil/Water Heat exchanger
TDI Clutched alternator
I'm also thinking of porting/Flowing the head as well as matching the manifolds. I'll need to uprate the head bolts, would standard PD150 12.9 grade bolts (shortened by 10mm i think) be up to the job or should i use ARP fasteners? (expensive!)
I might also have the whole engine dynamically balanced and selected coatings to keep it all in one peice?
Would the best upgrade just be a crank from an 1Z/AHU then without massive machining? or will something better fit?
I'm just looking at building a nice strong engine on a low-ish budget as i've never built an engine myself!
I already have a boost, EGT and EMP gauges in the car.
Heres the Pump Build topic: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=20845.msg160063#msg160063
Thanks for any help!
Ry
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everyone here runs stock cams. no need for anything better unless you are really building a fire breathing monster.
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I donīt think there is need to change stock crank. You can modify it to accept tdi timing pulley if you want, there is no other differences. Balancing is a good thing to do.
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i think you are overthinking this build. the stock parts are more than capable of what you want to do. if i were putting this in a van, i would want my powerband between like idle and 4000 or so. vans are big and heavy. and the way you are talkin about building this thing, its gonna be a top end machine with no guts. and why do you want a fuel cooler? you want diesel to be almost engine temp when burning it. and why all the weird parts? this is the biggest mix of ancient parts and modern parts ive ever heard of. lol
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I never said about changing the cam, but i wouldn't make the assumption that no-one uses anything other than stock.
I dont want a car that is gutless low down hence the VNT turbo, i also dont want 2000rpm peak torque as those small turbo TD/TDI's dont drive nicely on a spirited drive, I dont 'want' to rev to 7k really but a 1500-4500 powerband is boring
how can you over think a build?, no planning on a build like this will mean a poor final product, fail to prepare is to prepare to fail! I appriciate your input in both my topics but i dont think your TD goals are the same as mine. The fuel coolers seem a good idea on the TDI's but i've not seen anyone fit one to a TD, i'm just throwing 'new' ideas around instead of being a sheep!
I'm mix matching parts to bring together a decent spec TD, if i was going 100% modern i'd just fir a 16v TDI and have done with it, if i wanted an acient engine i'd just fit the old 1.5d.
Do you know what van i speak of? A mk2 golf van, no more weight than a normal mk2 golf.
Where are the wierd parts you speak of?
Please dont trash my thread for no aparent reason!
Ry
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Does van mean the same thing in the UK as in the states? Like as in a mini-van or is it more on the lines of a 4-door or wagon?
You have some very nice parts listed. As long as you can keep the rod / block flex under control from high torque at lower rpm levels (vnt), you should be good. You might want to consider a block girdle. Is the 1Y set up with oil squirters for piston cooling? Will the tdi crank fit, if so what advantages is going to give you? If you have the engine apart you should replace the IM shaft bearings as well as having the IM shaft turned / trued up. Coated pistons will certainly help. Balancing the rotating assemble will help any engine, a 4-cyl diesel will certainly benifit. Gasket matching is easy and will pick you up some free power. Doing the intake / exhaust ports etc correctly is a pretty involved job unless you are just talking about general casting cleanup.
If you have good clean flow in and free flow out, with that turbo and adequate fuel flow you should have plenty of power. The turbo is a bit on the large side and you will need to be careful about surge, but if you can get the engine rpms to spin up quickly and are careful about going WOT it should be a real powerhouse.
WHat transmission / clutch setup are you considering? 02A with lightened g60 flywheel?
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A golf mk2 van is just a car with no rear windows or seats:
(http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq352/ryan-pak/My%20Golf/SNV81028.jpg)
I actually have the CAD file for a block Girdle, I forgot to list it! Thanks!
The 1Y is basically an AAZ block (with oil jets for the pistons) and the prone to fail crank pulley, I'll just mod the crank whilst it's out if that's easier. I think i'll send the head and manifolds off to a specialist if it seems like too much of a job for me.
I did consider a GTB1756VK turbo for the job, around 220hp can be obtained with these on a TDi but with spool as quick as a VNT15!! I might fit the GTB2260VK which will spool much quicker than the frame size suggests and offers a very low restriction in the exhaust compared to most VNT's of that size. 280+hp with these on a TDI. They are good for 300hp on a 3,0audi as standard!
Like you say, I'll have to be careful and roll the throttle at low RPM's instead of stomping down on it!
For the transmission i'll be fitting a 02J from a mk4 with a peloquinn diff and maybe some cryo-treatment or shot peening. For the clutch i already have a Helix 4 paddle clutch capeable of 500 lb's/Ft i'll use that with a balanced 1Y flywheel (the same as a G60 really!)
Thanks for your help!
Ryan
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What car did the 1Y came from? If itīs from Passat, itīll have 215mm clutch and flywheel is slightly different than "G60". G60 pressureplate will not fit to 1Y fw directly. Also remember that tdi-horsepower is not same as idi-horsepower. In my experience with idi, youīll need a little bigger turbo to get same horsepower that with tdi.
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I'll get one from a golf, the one i have for my dad's is from a golf.
Yeah, I've noticed an IDI like alot more air than a TDi for the same power.
Cheers
Ry
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Hiya bud!
Want to split the cost of the girdle and get me one done as well? Either that or make a batch and cover all your costs?
How are you gonna control the VNT? I'm looking at an electronic controller and servo motor actuation of the VNT - that way you can map the boost against a multitude of engine conditions...
I'll have the manifold off you if you don't use it.
Any reason for starting with the 1Y and not a TDI?
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I dont know why i dont want a TDI TBH, I've got the whole setup here waiting to be fitted
I was going to use a mechanical linkage but you can PM me on what it would cost to sort out the electronic control, i've got a nice passat GT1749VA sat in my garage! I'm not too up on electrics/electronics but i'd like to learn!
If you think i could get shut of a few of the girdle's i'll have some made up, i was thinking waterjet cutting if its not mega money!
What manifold do you want?
Cheers
Ry
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what about those PD bolts?are those stronger than normal IDI?
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PD150 head bolts are 12.9 grade and are considered an upgrade for the PD130 10.9 bolts. Although loads of people fit them to the ALH Tdi's, they need shortening by 10mm due to the head differences.
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but comparing to the IDI ones?
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ANY bolts are better than IDI bolts..
but studs are way better than any bolts.
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Ryan,
Theres a post on caddy forum with a good source for ARP head studs
I would want the 1Y inlet manfold if you are not going to use it....
I also have a mechanical design for VNT control if you want that option.
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ANY bolts are better than IDI bolts..
but studs are way better than any bolts.
any specs on that?
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how many guys on here are running head bolts?
i know i still have stock bolts, but i dont have monster power.
if you build power and use bolts, you will blow the head off and mess up the block. ive done it.
USE HEAD STUDS!
if you look at the specs on ARP's page, they are way way tougher than stock bolts. and the nut that threads on the stud is really fine thread pitch, so it has greater clamping force. i bet the price difference between a new set of PD 150 bolts and 1.6 ARP's is only a few bucks.
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how many guys on here are running head bolts?
No problems with stock bolts&fiber gasket, had only 170hp/300nm at that time. But changed ARP studs and metal gasket to be sure.
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i had 35 psi of boost with stock 11mm bolts and a 5 notch gasket. ran it like that for almost a year. then i was racing a honda and forgot to pay attention to my gauges for just long enough to make way too much boost, then POP! if i would have had a way to bleed off excess boost, i think i could have ran 35psi alot longer.
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headbolts.com
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1.5 / 1.6 / 1.9 sohc 8 valve diesel turbo and non turbo (note arp lists this number for ford cosworth !)
12 pt nuts with under cut studs with 12mm threads arp part no: 251-4701