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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Smokey Eddy on August 04, 2009, 07:27:20 pm
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This is just how i do it :) this only took me an hour or so. I didn't really watch the time.
Grab your nozzles, heat shields and solvent! (i used lacquer thinner)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05828.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05829.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05833.jpg)
Take off the T-belt cover so you can loosen the bolts on the pump as to move the pump away from the injectors. This always helps me get the socket on that stubborn one behind the pump. But yours (8v) is NA isn't it :P so this step is rather pointless.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05830.jpg)
I have smashed my hands too many times not to gently tap the nuts loose on the hard lines with a rubber mallet.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05831.jpg)
Put them somewhere safe ;)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05832.jpg)
When you start to undo the injectors it is VITAL that you always apply the force toward the head. On my old 1.6 head someone had ripped an injector out of the boss and re-welded the threads back onto the head. It is also crucial to be very weary of the return nipples.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05834.jpg)
My socket complained that this clip was here so i took it off. just a reminder!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05836.jpg)
As i undo the injectors i like to hold a shop vac to the threads to ensure no hard carbon chunks get into the pre-cup. It also works really well do suck the heat shield out of the boss! =D
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05837.jpg)
Clean it up real good!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05839.jpg)
This was my leaking injector. Or more-over my excuse to by new nozzles.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05841.jpg)
Take this time to check your glow plugs! Always kill as many animals with your bare hands as you can. That's the figure of speech right?
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05842.jpg)
Get them apart by what ever means possible! a vice works the best but some time you have to compromise. All the bits have to stay with their host injector!!! This is when you lap the flat surfaces with high grit (i like 600) on a piece of glass + oil. I didn't do this here because i had recently lapped them and they were still scratch-less.
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05843.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05844.jpg)
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/DSC05845.jpg)
Do the reverse and there YA GO!
(http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/th_MOV05846.jpg) (http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f279/edmcclung/?action=view¤t=MOV05846.flv)
Excuse the lame music. I had the radio going. notice me finding there to be not enough soot existing the exhaust and promptly fixing it? Remember that's dual exhaust too :P
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Any reason why you seem to be using a torque wrench as a breaker bar? :o
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That isn't a breaker bar?
Weird :)
breaker bars don't usually click at 70nm though. I anti-sieze everything so i never need a breaker bar for anything except for lugs and the sprockets.
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What's wrong with using a torque wrench as a breaker bar anyway? I mean if it can do the 100ft.lb for lugs... why not?
use what you got right? (Nice wrench BTW Edna)
I thank-you for writing this all up for me, even though i don't need it yet :P i still gotta get a seal for my pump and fix that.. THEN GET IT IN MY CAR! LOL
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My torque wench goes to 250 ft.lbs and thats just what its RATED for! :P
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pretty sure its gonna provide all the breaking pressure you'd EVER need! lol
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Considering how easy it is to knock those suckers out of calibration, I treat them like they're made of glass... At $70 to recalibrate, plus the downtime of shipping if the shop's not local, it's worth using the right tools for the right job.
Besides, a breaker bar's cheap. And much easier to add extra pipe length to if I need to add to my leverage.
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my breaker bar is just a piece of steel pipe o put over my socket wrenches.. whats yourS?
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my breaker bar is just a piece of steel pipe o put over my socket wrenches.. whats yourS?
One of these: (http://www.outdoorpros.com/images/prod/6/Alltrade-Tools-643503-rw-52510-62773.jpg)
Cost me all of $35, plus the $7 3/4"->1/2" drive adapter, at my local Ace. Damn near indestructible, and the sliding nature of the handle means I can apply force to both sides, or reset myself after a half turn without removing the socket.
I bought it specifically for injectors. Those two, plus a 1/2" drive 27mm deep impact socket, are my injector removal toolset, and cost me all of $55. I've also used them for axle nuts, head-bolt removal, and the mongo 36mm axle nuts on a Super Beetle with no complaints. :D
[edit] I checked my records for the price of the bar. I was way off, but it's definitely been a very justifiable investment.
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I do have a breaker bar. But my "breaker bar" application wasn't really breakerbar application... torque values were required. And like i said, nothing was siezed :P those injectors were apart >10,000km ago and still had soft grey anti-sieze on em.
but your concern is MUCH appreciated! :D
for the record, you dont have to have your hands on the wrench for the wrench to act properly. Securely on the ground is a lot steadier than with my hand flailing around on it.
and sometimes, with these cars, when you can save $35 ... that's part of the reason for owning a vw.
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It's my understanding that you aren't suppose to use a torque wrench as a breaker bar for loosening anything because the sudden shock when it breaks loose messes up the calibration. And really an uncalibrated torque wrench is pretty useless.
Bosch would shoot you in the head if they heard you were using 600 grit sandpaper. You should use at least 2000 if you are going to sand them at all.
Your thread clearily illustrates one of the main reasons why I hate turbos. Too much extra crap in the way. Like that stupid LDA you had to deal with :P
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I do have a breaker bar. But my "breaker bar" application wasn't really breakerbar application... torque values were required. And like i said, nothing was siezed :P those injectors were apart >10,000km ago and still had soft grey anti-sieze on em
Torque values are only required on the installation end of things, when you're tightening, rather than when removing and disassembling.
Saving thirty five dollars while risking likely three times that much (I know how much my 10-150ft-lb torque wrench cost me, $130 or so) is one of those "penny wise, pound foolish" propositions.
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i cant believe that abs plastic is holding up as boost lines. i tried that on my car once. guess the VNT is just too hot for plastic pipes.
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One of my rebuilt injectors is leaking nicely, guess what I will be up to this weekend. ::)
The good news is I have five matching rebuilt injectors off fleabay for a song. The bad news? I have no idea what nozzles are fitted, or what car they were for. Should be fun seeing if they melt the prechambers. ;D
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Yeah the pipe works well with those clamps. No melting at all. but i don't race my car or anything ... just normal driving.
I don't see what the big jerking motion you speak of is? :P my injectors slid out like a knife through butter.
Does no one else use anti-seize on everything?
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man those franken motors really do sound angry... you should make some more videos of the exhaust note, maybe some in car and all that
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that's without being under load though :P !!!
it sounds WAY cooler at 25 psi and rising going 80km/hr in third with my foot to the floor.
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post it or i will be forced to assume you are a liar
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ok fine!!!
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ok fine!!!
Ok fine you are a liar or ok fine you will post a video? ???
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ok fine as in its my mother's birthday and im cooking her dinner instead of tearing around the neighbourhood for YOU guys' amusement!
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Yeah the pipe works well with those clamps. No melting at all. but i don't race my car or anything ... just normal driving.
I don't see what the big jerking motion you speak of is? :P my injectors slid out like a knife through butter.
Does no one else use anti-seize on everything?
yes, i use anti seize on alot of things, but one thing to remember, for aluminum, and general use use the silver anti seize. for high heat use like on turbos and that sort, use the copper high heat stuff. dont use copper never seize on bolts that are threaded into aluminum. since there dis-similar metals, the copper starts to eat away the aluminum. ive never actually seen a case of this, just what some old mechanics told me many moons ago.
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Good to know, good to know!
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Hey Ed so did you pop test or just hope it was good enough? :)
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Hey Ed so did you pop test or just hope it was good enough? :)
I literally got the nozzles in the day before and changed them in the next day in like an hour with just a 13mm socket&wrench. a 27mm deep socket & wrench. and that torque wrench. oh, and a crescent wrench and some lacquer thinner. and paper towel. Go through all the crap of making a pop tester? you gotta be kidding me!
its always good enough the way it is if it starts! People are too fussy on here :p .
For the record my build makes 55 mpg. My old mileage before i "abused" my car was 25mpg.
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Sounds good enough.....OR....maybe you "found" the optimum pop pressure for good mileage ;D haha
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how do you get 25mpg? the lowest ive ever seen from my car is 35. and that was with a pretty constant black cloud behind me too. and i wore a few thousand miles off my tires too.
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Bosch would shoot you in the head if they heard you were using 600 grit sandpaper. You should use at least 2000 if you are going to sand them at all.
What happens when you use such a rough grit??
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What happens when you use such a rough grit??
Global financial meltdown...
OR
It would leave gouges in the surface not alowing it to seal properly.. Sort of like if you sanded the cylinder head surface with 20 grit..
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What happens when you use such a rough grit??
Global financial meltdown...
OR
It would leave gouges in the surface not allowing it to seal properly.. Sort of like if you sanded the cylinder head surface with 20 grit..
Soo basically the difference between the two is Hiroshima and a Hand Grenade :P
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how do you get 25mpg? the lowest ive ever seen from my car is 35. and that was with a pretty constant black cloud behind me too. and i wore a few thousand miles off my tires too.
With absolutely no compression, that's how.
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What happens when you use such a rough grit??
Global financial meltdown...
OR
It would leave gouges in the surface not allowing it to seal properly.. Sort of like if you sanded the cylinder head surface with 20 grit..
Soo basically the difference between the two is Hiroshima and a Hand Grenade :P
well there must have been some sort of trans dimensional rift when i lapped my injector parts with 600 onto 1,000 because im now getting 5.5L/100km. Yeah i guess i "found" the right pop pressure?
you guys take this crap way too seriously :P or am i just lucky?
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Noo way man people just take it too seriously.. us youngens are just irresponsible :P and foolish. lol
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I'd be willing to bet that any sort of rebuild done by the book is probably gonna be more precise than it was from teh factory... I'm sure the VW factory builds things closer to tolerances than say Dodge, but with thousands of units passing though If they run half decent they go out the door...
And Eddy, now that you have found the magic pressure, rip those injectors out and check them so you can duplicate and share!!! ;D
For the record I been runnin VW diesels for close 10 years now.. Didn;t own or touch any of the timing tools till last year.. Easy starts, decent power, and crazy mileage on every one :P