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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Doakster on July 03, 2009, 05:18:11 pm
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Take a look and let me know what you think....I'm not pointing my finger at this causing my low mileage issue. I don't have a boost gauge so I can't give any boost number of what the car makes. But i will say that a used to be able to hear my turbo spool and can't anymore...also turbo spins freely and there is no end play in the shaft.
Picture of oil spot where oil is being splashed on the firewall heat shield....this tells me boost is leaking out and throwing the oil against the firewall. I've already checked all my hoses and clamps, there is no cuts and the clamps are very tight.
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x82/andydoaki/Jetta%20Diesel/IMG_0675.jpg)
Back side of compressor housing with oil on left and right side of housing.
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x82/andydoaki/Jetta%20Diesel/IMG_0676.jpg)
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x82/andydoaki/Jetta%20Diesel/IMG_0677.jpg)
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x82/andydoaki/Jetta%20Diesel/IMG_0687.jpg)
This is a K14 on an ECO, I'm thinking oil is leaking around the compressor housing, there is an O-ring that seals this correct? What do you guys think?
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Smart money is on the intake hose on the compressor outlet is leaking. The oil is from the crank vent.
I've had that elbow off probably a dozen times to inspect it....no cuts in it at all and the clamp is on TIGHT....just put everything back together before I did a mileage test today, with rebuilt injectors my mileage only jump up from 30-35.
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blocked oil return line?
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blocked oil return line?
I would think that would ruin the turbo completely pretty quickly. This one spins freely.
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Take the hose back off, clean it and the turbo thoroughly and apply a very slight smear of permatex rtv on the outside of the compressor outlet. Tighten it down and let it cure.
Andrew
I'll give it a try and see if it makes a difference. I seriously have the clamps on as tight as they can possibly get.
The odd thing is the oil on the bottom of the compressor housing, if it was the elbow I would think the oil would mostly be at the top of the housing.
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Take the hose back off, clean it and the turbo thoroughly and apply a very slight smear of permatex rtv on the outside of the compressor outlet. Tighten it down and let it cure.
Andrew
Did exactly that....rtv's the compressor outlet elbow at the turbo and the intake manifold, even RTV'd the inlet to the compressor.
Didn't change the mileage...but so far there are no oil on the compressor housing....still going to watch this...but I am still aggravated at the mileage.
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I'd start by cutting your cat out of there if you haven't done so already.
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Aside from the turbo not building boost or the fans rubbing the housing, the turbo doesn't usually impact mileage.
I'd focus on the SLEW of other significant mileage affecting possibilities.
The other frustrating this about this is all the other stuff that affects mileage has been replaced. Front and rear brakes are completely new, with all new wheel bearings installed at all 4 corners. Just to double check maybe tomorrow I'll jack up the corners and check for rotation of the wheels and see what I have. I would be shocked to find anything dragging.
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I'd start by cutting your cat out of there if you haven't done so already.
Already done, was removed previously not be me.
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Coke, one of the moderators at the vwdieselparts forum recently posted a 23.6% increase in fuel economy from 38 to 47 MPG(U.S.) by doing the FREE adjustment of the pump internal pressure regulator as outlined in this thread:
http://vwdieselparts.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5936
Andrew
Just finished reading the 13 pages....at a minimum I want to check my IP pressure, so my question is where can I get a spare pedestal like the one you modified to hook a pressure gauges onto?
(http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/libbybapa/Imag0232.jpg)
And since my car is an ECO is doesn't have a tach, so I just purchased a laser tack off ebay
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Most of the ECO pumps came with the "pedestal". Are you sure yours doesn't?
Sorry...I should have been more clear, yes it has a pedestal, but I'd like to modify a spare one to do the test.
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The pedestal serves no purpose that I have ever been able to decipher and most of the pumps did not come with one. Consider yourself lucky. You can simply remove it when you are done with the test and thread the return banjo directly into the pump.
Hmm interesting, so your saying that it's basically a spacer
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Still though just in case...where could i get one....a bosch dealer?
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blocked oil return line?
I would think that would ruin the turbo completely pretty quickly. This one spins freely.
Not true - the oil will blow by the shaft seals - some will go out the exhaust, some will be burned in the combustion. I agree the turbo is small potatoes for mpg. Do you have oil consumption ? Get a boost gauge because they are cool, and you'll know if your turbo is working :-)
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I think I have an idea why some pumps include a pedestal/spacer on the out bolt, or I could be completely out of it.
If you take a look at my pump, the pedestal gets the return line at just the right height so it can get over the cover of the timing belt. If it didn't have the spacer the line would probably hit my throttle assembly. Or i also could remove the spacer and install flexible return hose and remove the pedestal.
I ended up calling Giles and he's going to send me a spacer for around 5.00 plus shipping....not bad at all.
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x82/andydoaki/Jetta%20Diesel/IMG_1268.jpg)
Also since the pump plunger assembly has a two sided bolt, how do you go about removing it if you have to, make your own tool I assume, or can you get on it with a 12 point socket?
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I'd like to confirm a few things that I've read in the "checking IP pressure" thread, can you tell me if I'm on track with this.
-RPM of the pump should be checked at the drive gear, I'll be using a Laser/reflective tach to do this, RPM of the pump is 1/2 engine RPM
All RPMs I listed are pump RPMs
-IP Pressure @ 500 RPM should be 3 Bar (43.5 psi)
-IP Pressure @ 750 RPM should be 4.1 Bar (59.4 psi)
-IP Pressure @ 1000 RPM should be 5.2 Bar (75.4 psi)
-IP Pressure @ 2000 RPM should be 10.4 Bar (150 psi)
Only question that I can't seem to answer out of that thread is if it matter for a N/A, Turbo, Eco Pump
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The pressures listed are for pump rpm. It shouldn't matter if it is a n/a, TD or ECO pump. FWIW, I am convinced that you would actually get the best fuel economy with a larger diameter exhaust and a properly tuned TD pump. A N/A pump would be second and an ECO pump would come in last for economy.
From what I'm reading that seems to be the consensus. I'm contemplating getting one of Giles tuned TD pumps. Any idea where I can get a 2.5in down pipe?
I assume that most MK2 2.5in exhaust systems will work due to the same body style regardless of diesel/gas.