VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: SolarSteve on July 02, 2009, 01:06:48 pm
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I pulled the head off of my 1.6 N/A last night due to the stripped/broken #2 injector boss. Here are a few pictures of what the piston tops and head look like after 1 year and 14,000 miles of burning WVO.
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2128.jpg)
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2129.jpg)
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2130.jpg)
This is the crack/stripped boss
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2134_00.jpg)
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Doesn't look like those were the direct links to the pictures, as all I'm getting when I click them is the photobucket homepage.
Ah, wait... they're getting broken, 'cause of the length of the link. Are you using the "direct link" option under each picture?
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I honestly have no idea, everytime (other forums) I try to post pictures it fails.
I went to Photobucket and got my pictures on thier site. Then I right clicked each picture, got the drop down box, clicked properties and copied the HTTP, then I pasted the HTTP's into a thread on a differnt forum. For this forum, I went to the forum where I originally posted them and just copied the addresses and pasted them here.
What should I do to make this work?
BTW point of this thread is that the inside of the engine looks just as if I had been running D2 the whole time.
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Hi Steve:
Have you tried the instructions from the FAQ? If so, are you getting stuck some place? It looks like you're using the "web" link from Photobucket rather than the "image" link... ie the one that starts with IMG.
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I will check out the FAQ. I can't do much with the pictures until I get to my home computer, so I will try to fix this later this evening.
Thank you
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Vincent
As I was looking at the FAQ for posting pictures I came across a link. This link, like all the links I have tried on this site bring me to a TDI-IDI page that gives me this note inside of a box, center screen.
The new forum is online! www.vwdiesel.net/forum
What does this mean and why won't it bring me to the posted link?
Thank you
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Those links your seeing worked before the forum got upgraded, now they have to be changed to work with this one, the mods and the original poster of the dead links is the only ones that can fix 'em.
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Unfortunately, those links are all over the place. I'm sure the Mods don't have the time to fix all of them, there are a lot of them!
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Whats it look like? I got 16,000+ miles under my belt of WVO on my TD
BTW point of this thread is that the inside of the engine looks just as if I had been running D2 the whole time.
wvo=d2=everythings aok ;D
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Okay, rather than going to "properties" for each image, put your mouse over the picture in your album. Underneath it a menu pops up, with several options. The one on the bottom says "IMG Code" with a yellow box beside it. Copy and paste what's in that box into your post, and the picture will appear when you post.
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Whats it look like? I got 16,000+ miles under my belt of WVO on my TD
If you have ever pulled the head off of one that has only run D2, that is what it looks like. No gunk, no wads of carbon. It sorta looks like the piston tops and the combution chamber? on the head were sprayed with a very dry coat of flat black spray paint.
I will try to get the pictures fixed around midnight tonight.
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I gotta see if I kept the pics from my HG job a year ago.. 113,000 miles on WVO.. All looked good except the #1 Cyl which had a bad injector.. They were all rather overdue for a rebuild...
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OK guys, I got the pictures working!! Please scroll to the first post to see them.
Thank you all for your help and patients!!
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I soaked the coolant out with paper towels imeadiately after the pictures and sprayed WD-40 in the cylinders. Even though I changed the oil the day before this all went down, I will change it again before starting. Thanks for the tip on the T-stat. I really should change it while I am at it!
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Your motor is looking good. What method of heating/filtering do you use?
On an unrelated note, whenever anyone stumbles across a broken link, click the "report to moderater" button and the mods will get an email that links them right to that post. We can then quickly modify it to work
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Your motor is looking good. What method of heating/filtering do you use?
On an unrelated note, whenever anyone stumbles across a broken link, click the "report to moderater" button and the mods will get an email that links them right to that post. We can then quickly modify it to work
Thank you, I am in the process of putting it all back together right now and just logged on to check a question I posted about timing. When I have more time I will give you my filtering/dewatering process and how the system on the car works.
Thank you for the info on how to get the links fixed.
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Lookin very good!!! Did you happen to have the injectors checked to see how they are holding up???
I ran my first rabbit about 120K on WVO, I know the injectors were crap when I started, finally had them replaced at about 113K into it... My current Rabbit it just coming on 60K miles of burning WVO and used motor oil.. Been thinking of pulling the injectors to see how they'er doing... They were new when I started so I can better guage how they are holding up...
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I pulled the head off of my 1.6 N/A last night due to the stripped/broken #2 injector boss. Here are a few pictures of what the piston tops and head look like after 1 year and 14,000 miles of burning WVO.
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2128.jpg)
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2129.jpg)
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2130.jpg)
This is the crack/stripped boss
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2134_00.jpg)
Looks like you've got alot of coking. How hot are you getting the oil?
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Oh boy those pics make me feel like such a ricer with my clean engine... That's how a diesel is supposed to look!
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I pulled the head off of my 1.6 N/A last night due to the stripped/broken #2 injector boss. Here are a few pictures of what the piston tops and head look like after 1 year and 14,000 miles of burning WVO.
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2128.jpg)
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2129.jpg)
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2130.jpg)
This is the crack/stripped boss
(http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad76/Kroni92/100_2134_00.jpg)
Looks like you've got alot of coking. How hot are you getting the oil?
The system switches over to veg when the coolant temp reaches 170F. I don't have a VO temp gage set up, but the VO temp before the IP with coolant temps at 170F will be about 160-165F. The coolant temp will continue to rise to 194F set be the T-stat. At that point the VO will be around 185F or so before the IP, which is plenty hot for an IDI. I imagine the VO will pick up a little more heat in the IP, but I don't know exactly how much.
I don't think the combustion chamber or the piston tops look coked, thats the exact same way they looked while running D2, before I started running VO. The outside of the head looks like crap because the crack in the injector boss was allowing VO to leak out making a hell of a mess down the front of the head/block.
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Your motor is looking good. What method of heating/filtering do you use?
On an unrelated note, whenever anyone stumbles across a broken link, click the "report to moderater" button and the mods will get an email that links them right to that post. We can then quickly modify it to work
I'm sorry it has taken me so long to get back to this, after I got the engine back together I renovated my kitchen and forgot all about this thread!
Here is how I filter.
I collect VO in cubies and I place them in the attic of my pole barn for a minimum of 1 week. During that time they get pretty warm, mabey 90 to 100F in the summer and a lot of the crud settles to the bottom. Then I use a drill pump and suck to good oil off of the top. I stop about 1 inch from the separation line that is visible through the cubie. I then pour this into my cold upflow still/filter. The top of the upflow has a 75 micron barrel screen/filter. The output of the upflow goes through a whole house water filter with a 5 micron element and into an insulated barrel. When the insulated barrel is 90% full, I turn off the flow of oil from the upflow and plug in the 3500 watt 220 volt hot water heater element in to a 110 outlet reducing the output to about 875 watts, that is installed in the side of the barrel about 6" up from the bottom and heat the oil to 150F. It take about 4 hours to get it that hot.
Once it reaches 150F, I unplug the element and let the oil slowly cool and settle for 4 days. Next, I drain off about 5 gallons and test for water. It has always passed but if it didn't I would drain off more until it passes. Finally, I pump the oil from the insulated drum into a drum that is on a pedestal about 6 feet above the floor and it gravity feeds into a whole house water filter with a 2 micron element and then into 275 gallon tote for storage.
Using this system and taking EVERYTHING into consideration, it costs me 20 cents per gallon. I am in the (very slowly) process of building a centrifuge so I can eliminate the whole house filter as they are the most expensive part of this filter and my cost per gallon will drop to fractions of a cent per gallon.
Also, if you don't know what a cold upflow filter is, just ask, I will explain that too.
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Okay then: what's a cold upflow filter?
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tell me more about the centerfuge please. I do lots of biodiesel and have tried several types. I am also trying to make algae biofuel and will need a centerfuge for that too.
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Okay then: what's a cold upflow filter?
A cold upflow takes dirty "wet" VO and introduces it to the bottom of a drum via a tube attached at the top of the drum. The dirty oil, heavy with contaiminates stays on the bottom while the clean oil floats to the top. Particulates and water like to cling together, so the bottom gets dirtier and dirtier and as the contaminates clump it frees clean oil which is lighter and it floats up.
Here is how mine is assembled.
I have a 55 gallon drum on a 18" tall stand. Threaded into the 2" bung is a 4" long nipple with a pipe welded to the inside of the nipple. Once the nipple is threaded into the drum with the pipe on the inside, the pipe is about 6" from the bottom. On the other end of the nipple I threaded the top 1/3 of a 55 gallon drum to act like a large funnel. Inside the "funnel" is my 75 micron screen.
As I pour oil into the funnel it gets filter to 75 micron and enters the pipe and begins to fill the barrel. The 3/4" bung has a PVC elbow and is pipe to my WHWF (whole house water filter) and then into the next barrel. As the 1st drum fills, it pushes air out of the 3/4" bung until the drum is completely filled. At that point you stop adding oil for atleast 1 week.
After 1 week the oil should have settle fairly well, with the cleanest, driest oil on the top and as you add say 5 gallons of "dirty" oil, it is piped straight to the bottom and pushes the entire column of oil in the drum up, pushing 5 gallons of clean/dry out. The WHWF element creates resistance to the flow and keeps the flow slow. The slower the better as it gives the "junk" in the bottom oil that is getting pushed up time to settle to the very bottom. This will not only separate out food particle/sediment but it will also separate out fats and partially hydrogenated oil (PHO).
I have processed as much as 10 gallons in a 24 hour period, but don't recommend going faster than that as you may start to push dirty out out. The warmer the oil temp the faster the junk will settle out and the whole system stops once the temp drops below about 40F. I have installed a drain at the very bottom to drain out all of the sludge once a year.
This system works very well, but it does work slow so you will need to build up a supply of clean oil before you need it. And unless you build a warm upflow, like I said, it will "freeze" up in the winter. However, once your oil is clean and dry it will stay liquid below 0F. I know this because I pumped clean oil with a drill pump at -5F last winter.
I have at this moment a 275 gallon tote filled with clean dry WVO. I hope to process and fill 2 more 55 gallon drums by freeze up and that will get me through the winter. I still collect during the winter, I just have to wait for spring to start processing again.
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tell me more about the centerfuge please. I do lots of biodiesel and have tried several types. I am also trying to make algae biofuel and will need a centerfuge for that too.
There are many CF manufactures out there, but not all of them seem to work as advertised with VO, I don't know about BD. Many people use Diesel Crafts CF, but IIRC that CF was designed for large engines like those on locomotives and the crank oil is constanly being CF as the motor is running to reduce down time for oil changes. So people swear by them, but if read all of the posts it seems they all complain about them as well.
I found on a major Ford forum (I can access it at this computer and don't remember the name but someone else may remember it) a guy taking about a company called Simple Centrifuge. Theirs is a different design than the Diesel Craft. This guy was posting about copying the SC and building it himself. In the actual post he got someone from SC to give specs and pictures of the actual bowl that they sell! The SC kit comes with the centrifuge bowl, a motor and everything you need to get it up and running but it cost $1000. :o
So I just took down all of the info from the site and I know someone at a machine shop who says he can build the bowl. I will then fabricate everything else and use an electric motor that I have on hand. The 1st motor I have is a 1/4 HP 3450 RPM which should work well but I also have a Skil Saw motor that will spin at 5400 RPM. I don't know if the Skil Saw motor has the HP to get it going but the faster the better and I may just spin it by hand or rope to get it started!
I don't know exactly what you want to talk about with CF's, so if you want more, just ask more specific questions.
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Here's a pretty good idea for a centrifuge. ;D
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/1681017591
Start reading. A whole 18 pages worth. :o
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I pulled the head off of my 1.6 N/A last night due to the stripped/broken #2 injector boss. Here are a few pictures of what the piston tops and head look like after 1 year and 14,000 miles of burning WVO.
Looks like you've got alot of coking. How hot are you getting the oil?
I think you are confusing decoking with degreasing ::) ;D