VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: Hey on April 23, 2009, 11:51:44 am
-
I've build an electronic VNT controler and I've decided to share it with everyone on this part of the forum since it seems to be the most popular part.
The build is working on a dodge dakota m-tdi AND a in my car (m-tdi). Both engines run a VNT17. If you have a tdi, the circuit uses the #3 injector to calculate the quantity of injection and then adjust pressure accordingly. I can even calculate my consumption with the boost.
The build could also work with a td. In which case, a simpler PCB can be built (not tested though) or the same pcb can be built and some parts can be left unsolder. To use with a TD you will also need to buy a varying resistor to install on the throttle shaft of the pump. The bosch numbers are, accorgind to esitronic:
1 467 217 319 potentiometre,
1 460 326 400 ( potentiometre support)
Note that I haven't tested it for the tds, so the programming code might not work right away... but if someone builds it, I will help him make it work. Also, I don't have the potentiometre from bosch so I don't know what is the resistance value at WOT and at idle... that would be needed if someone knows it.
I will explain how to make the PCB, solder everything, etc. The only thing that I want to insist on is that I don't want anybody selling it. I've worked on this on my free time and I will take the time to explain it to everyone. I would like it to stay free for everyone. So if you want to build it for someone, please don't make a profit out of it... ask the person to buy the parts and do it or better... help him do it.
For this reason, I would like to know who is going to build it. I will give at the end of the procedure the code for programming the microcontroler. The program will limit the boost to 10psi. Contact me, and I will send you the code for ... as many psi as you want. I can also send the microcontroler already programed for those that don,t want to buy a programmer. I think the PIC costs about 20$/unit... add shipping, it should not be over 40$ in North America.
How does it control boost?
The circuit uses 2 AAZ vacuum valves. The ones that are installed besides the air box. One of these valve controls the idle when the engine is cold... I don't use it anymore. And the other one was to actuate the k03 turbo and I don't need it anymore. These valves are cheap so.. it should not be a problem to buy.
For the boost not to fluctuate too much, I modify the valves. There is a small cap that allows to air to get in/out when 0V is applied to the valves. I get rid of the cap and fill the hole with a screw+glue. This way the valves are one way only.
One the valve connects the vacuum to the VNT actuator. Then I installed a T connector on the hose going from the valve to the actuator and put the other valve there, with the exit at amosphere.
When valve #1 is ON and valve #2 OFF, the actuator is vacuumed! If the pressure is ok, valve #1 AND valve #2 are OFF. IF the pressure is too high, valve #1 is OFF AND valve #2 is ON.
-
Step 1: Buy the required hardware to make the PCB. You can find pretty much everything on an electronic.
1) The developper (to get rid of the UV rays photosensitive layer)
It is the bottle on the left
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/circuitimprim001.jpg)
Mix one part of developper with 10 parts of water in a bottle. The product becomes green when you use it but it's still good... reuse it.
2) The etching (to get rid of the cooper at the right places... where the UV didn't interacted)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/circuitimprim002.jpg)
You have 2 choices
#1) The products on the left of the picture are not expensive and easy to find. The leftmost product is muriatic acid or chloridric acid (HCL). You can buy that in an hardware store where the thinner, acetone, paints are. The other one is hydrogen peroxyde that you can buy in drug store.
Vous mix the acid AFTER in peroxyde. Always acid IN water, not the other way. In this case, it's not dangerous but... !! But twice as much peroxyde than HCL.
advantage:
-Cost less and doesn't stain clothes( and everything esle)
-You can but it on the sink (not stainless steal sink!!!) once finish (not poisonous)
disadvantage:
-will IMMEDIATELY eat stainless steal sink (don't do that in you sink)
#2) Ferric Chloride. Available in electronic store.
advantage: Might be a little faster and precise in perfect condition (bubbles+heat)
disadvantage:
-It stain everything
- $$
- need some heat
- Highly toxic at the end.. don,t put it on the toilet!
ALWAYS BE CAREFUL WORKING WITH THESE PRODUCTS. USE GLOVES, GLASSES AND A VERY WELL VENTED AREA.
3) UV rays to print the circuit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/circuitimprim003.jpg)
You will need :
-To print on an acetate. Printer in black and white with the highest quality set if the configuration. It must be VERY blanc so that the UV won,t go through the ink.
- A glass to have the acetate match the board perfectly. VERY higly IMPORTANT.
- A black light. The one I have is big. A smaller one should do just fine. With mine I wait 2min:15 sec before turning it off at about 20cm. A smaller one will required a little more time.
- A board with a presensitized single side copper layer sur un seul côté.
It's called a Presensitized copper clad board.
Electronic store only... in a black envelope!
- A small container for your PCB bath
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/circuitimprim004.jpg)
LAST THING: Buy 1 or 2 drill bit of a MAXIMUM of 60mil to drill the holes on the board. The electronic store will guide you.
-
I will continue tomorrow.. next lunch break!
French version
http://www.vwquebec.ca/forum/showthread.php?t=254418
-
Wow very nice writeup! I wish I had a VNT :P
Thanks for taking the time to share this! I'm sure there will be lots of people on here interested.
-
The mouvement is progressive because even if you put full vacuum, the actuator will move slowly.
-
Step 2 Building the PCB
Here is the PCB. In red, there is "roads" that you need to build using wires. Also, use this image to verify that you put the acetate on the right side.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/boost_control.png)
1) Using your printer with the highest black white quality (so the UV won't go through)
PRINT THIS on an acetate:
http://www.4shared.com/file/100291621/7a463eea/boost_control_tdi_MPMP2202.html
2) Using scissor cut the acetate
3) Cut a piece of the circuit presensitized board
4) Put the printed acetate over the side that has the white protective layer. VERIFY that the acetate is on the right side. The side of the acetate that has the ink should face the board. You can be sure by looking at the PCB shown above.
You will put the components on the other side. So if you etch the PCB on the wrong side you will have a mirror effect. Veryfiy with a chip that you are ok by comparing with the color board above.
5) Prepare the developper bath. (a sink is perfect.. this will not stain)
6) Rapidly, remove the protective layer and put the acetate over the board (on the right side), put the glass and ONLY THEN turn the UV light on for 2min15s.
7) Put your board in the developper bath until there is noting left but the printed circuit. Make it move on the bath without splashing water everywhere, but vigorously enough.
Everywhere where there is still some resine, the will be some copper left. When done... rince with fresh water.
9) Prepare the acid bath. you will need to agitate for about 20minutes. Watch out for the fumes. At the end, you should have a perfect PCB. If you put the PCB in front of a light (or sun) you should see through.
Go here to have some more details on the combo HCL/peroxide
http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=9451&highlight=acid+etchant
For the ferric chloride, don't heat over 45°C... the fumes will be toxic.
10) Once the PCB is done, use acetone (your wife varnis remover should do just fine with a q-tips) to get rid of the UV sensible resine. You won't need much.
11) Then you can use liquid flux to solder all the roads on the PCB. It'll be easier after that to solder the components and if there is a "cut" road you should see it right away.
If you decide to go over step 11, verify ALL the roads. Repair them if necessary.
12) Drill the holes s s s s s!!
-
Step 3 Soldering of components
It's where most mistakes are made. BE CAREFULL... it can take me a long while to debug a PCB and I design them, so...
-You should solder them one by one
-Don't bend the pins/wires.
- For the PIC 16F876A, buy a thin 28 pins support (PDIP-28 ) and solder this support instead of the microcontroler. This way you will be able to change the code if you like.
- For the pressure captor mpxm2202. It's a surface mount. YOU MUST absolutely solder the "roads" before you can solder the component. Then you heat up the roads without adding anymore tin/lead and bring the component.. not the other way around. IF YOU HEAT THE CAPTOR TOO MUCH YOU WILL RUIN IT.
Also, if you don't solder the roads before you will solder to "legs" of the captor and it,s difficult to get rid afterwards (you need a special wire to unsolder)
-For all components, DONT HEAT THEM UP TOO MUCH. Buy a nice and good iron with a sharp tip.
-Don't forget to solder the last 3 wires (in red in the PCB in color above)
Step 4Adjusting the PCB and installation
Resistance R7 and R3 need to be adjust (5k variable resistor)
-R3 resistor (adjust first), the red wire bringing the current to the pressure captor needs to carry at least 12V. The engine running (the alternator needs to be running) turn the screw to have as much as you can but not over 13V. (usually 12.5V)
-For the R7 resistor. Adjust it to 2.7k before you solder it. Then to fine tune it, you need to replace (for the fine tuning only) the injector #3 connector by a ~10k resistor (just put a 10k resistor instead of the #3 injector temporarily ) . When you put the resistor pin #1 of the IC4 components must change to 0V and stay at 0V until the resistor is pulled out. When you pull it out, the voltage should go back to 5V.
The best way to proceed is to look at the voltage on pin#2 of IC4. It should be around 2.5V. Then when you put the ~10k resistor, the voltage on pin #3 should vary of about 0.1V around this value (2.5V).
Exemple:
pin2 = 2.3V.
Resistor ON: pin3 = 2.4V.
Resistor OFF: pin3 = 2.2V
Always leave you voltmeter on pin #3.. don't get if off or you won't see the variation. (the voltmeter will act like the 10k resistor)
To know where is the pin1 or pin3 or pin2, you should know that the little "U" on one side of the chips represents the "UP" side. The pin # then starts at #1 on the left of the "U", just under you have #2, etc. The last number is always the one at the right of the "U".
-For Rtrim, adjust it BEFORE or you can use a standard 680ohm resistor. If you put LESS than 680ohm, you will have less boost at all regime/load. If you put MORE than 680ohm, you will have more boost at all regime/load.
Here is the list of materials:
Part Value Device Package Description
ALT_POW 14V instable AB9V AB9V 9-V BATTERY CLIP
C1 47nF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C2 1uF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C3 0.1uF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C4 0.1uF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C5 1uF C-EU025-024X044 C025-024X044 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C6 1uF C-EU102-043X133 C102-043X133 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C7 220uF CPOL-EUB45181A B45181A POLARIZED CAPACITOR, European symbol
C8 15pF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C9 15pF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C10 0.1uF C-EU075-032X103 C075-032X103 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C11 0.1uF C-EU025-024X044 C025-024X044 CAPACITOR, European symbol
D1 1N4148 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
D2 1N4148 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
D4 1N4007 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
D7 1N4007 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
IC2 LM317TS 317TS VOLTAGE REGULATOR
IC3 PIC16F876A PIC16F876A DIL28-3 MICROCONTROLLER
IC4 LM2903N LM2903N DIL08 COMPARATOR
IC5 78MXXS 78MXXS VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Q2 20MHz CRYSTALTC26H TC26H CRYSTAL
R3 5k R-TRIMM43P RTRIM43P Trimm resistor
R5 1k R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R6 1k R-EU_0207/5V 0207/5V RESISTOR, European symbol
R7 100k R-EU_0207/5V 0207/5V RESISTOR, European symbol
R8 100k R-EU_0207/10 0207/10 RESISTOR, European symbol
R9 3.8k R-EU_0207/10 0207/10 RESISTOR, European symbol
R10 3.5k R-TRIMM43P RTRIM43P Trimm resistor
R11 15k R-EU_0207/10 0207/10 RESISTOR, European symbol
R12 15k R-EU_0207/10 0207/10 RESISTOR, European symbol
R13 390 R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R16 10K R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R19 330ohm R-EU_0207/5V 0207/5V RESISTOR, European symbol
SL1 Con_ injecteur M02 02P AMP QUICK CONNECTOR
SL2 Selenoide2 M02 02P AMP QUICK CONNECTOR
SL3 Selenoide1 M02 02P AMP QUICK CONNECTOR
U$1 MPX4250A MPX4250A 867C-H
U$3 MC1413 MC1413 DIL-16
-
IDI PCB!(non tested)
The programming code is not done for this PCB, I will certainly ask for $ for the code as I don't have time to do it and I don't need it.
PCB print:
http://www.4shared.com/file/100299086/dff4179e/boost_control_AAZ.html (http://www.4shared.com/file/100299086/dff4179e/boost_control_AAZ.html)
PCB schematic
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v319/bareil76/boostcontrolAAZ.png)
List of material:
Part Value Device Package Description
ALT_POW 14V instable AB9V AB9V 9-V BATTERY CLIP
C4 0.1uF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C5 1uF C-EU025-024X044 C025-024X044 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C6 1uF C-EU102-043X133 C102-043X133 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C7 220uF CPOL-EUB45181A B45181A POLARIZED CAPACITOR, European symbol
C8 15pF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C9 15pF C-EU050-025X075 C050-025X075 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C10 0.1uF C-EU075-032X103 C075-032X103 CAPACITOR, European symbol
C11 0.1uF C-EU025-024X044 C025-024X044 CAPACITOR, European symbol
D2 1N4148 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
D3 1N4007 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
D4 1N4007 1N4148 DO35-10 DIODE
IC2 LM317TS 317TS VOLTAGE REGULATOR
IC3 PIC16876P PIC16876P DIL28-3 MICROCONTROLLER
IC5 78MXXS 78MXXS VOLTAGE REGULATOR
Q2 20MHz CRYSTALTC26H TC26H CRYSTAL
R3 5k R-TRIMM43P RTRIM43P Trimm resistor
R5 1k R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R13 390 R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R14 47k R-EU_0207/12 0207/12 RESISTOR, European symbol
R15 1k R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R16 10K R-EU_0207/2V 0207/2V RESISTOR, European symbol
R17 R-EU_0207/12 0207/12 RESISTOR, European symbol
SL2 Selenoide2 M02 02P AMP QUICK CONNECTOR
SL3 Selenoide1 M02 02P AMP QUICK CONNECTOR
SL4 Variable resistor M02 02P AMP QUICK CONNECTOR
U$1 MPXPAUL MPXPAUL 867C-H
U$3 MC1413 MC1413 DIL-16
you will need this to install on the pump (bosch part #)
1 467 217 319 potentiometer, 1 460 326 400 (potentiometer socket )
-
Step 5 The PIC programmation
I can send you an already programed pic, just add pic price+shipping, but it would be better if you could DIY.
If you need to buy a programer for the microcontroler you can look here:
http://www.winpic800.com/tienda/inde...emart&Itemid=8
or here
http://www.canakit.com/pic-programme...FSAgDQodm1OTGA
or here
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/co...rog/ck1708.htm
or on ebay
(be careful as some may need a power supply as extra cost) anything that can program a PIC 16F876A is good.
The code is a HEX file. you can rename it .hex (erase .txt) FOR TDI PCB ONLY.
:0600000000308A007C289C
:10000800F30003088301BA000A08BB008A017408D8
:10001800BE007508BD008B180B1E6F288B1083124D
:1000280003131014831601170130F4000030F50192
:100038008B180130F402031CF50375087404031DC2
:100048001828831210100F08A200A301A401A5010B
:100058002408A5002308A4002208A300A2010E0872
:10006800B600B701B801B901A2043708A3043808DB
:10007800A4043908A50410148B1083160113013049
:10008800F4000030F5018B180130F402031CF5036D
:1000980075087404031D4328831210100F08A60066
:1000A800A701A801A9012808A9002708A80026086F
:1000B800A700A6010E08B600B701B801B901A60449
:1000C8003708A7043808A8043908A9048B10A01415
:1000D8000C1820148B10031383123E08F4003D08FB
:1000E800F5003B088A003A088300F30E730E0900F6
:1000F800203084003A3086200A128A119829040692
:100108008001840A0406031D8328640000348401E6
:1001180083120313BC01FC01FD01FE01FF017808F5
:1001280079047A047B0403199C28C030BC05A728ED
:10013800F401F501F601F70113290310F80DF90D83
:10014800FA0DFB0DBC0AFB1FA128BC0A0310FC0D0D
:10015800FD0DFE0DFF0D7B087702031DBD287A08F3
:100168007602031DBD2879087502031DBD2878088D
:100178007402031CCF287C147808F4027908031C45
:10018800790FF5027A08031C7A0FF6027B08031C24
:100198007B0FF7020310FB0CFA0CF90CF80CBC03EC
:1001A8003C083F39031DAA283C1FE7280310FF30ED
:1001B800F407F409031CF507F509031CF607F6090B
:1001C800031CF707F7097408F8007508F9007608A2
:1001D800FA007708FB007C08F4007D08F5007E082B
:1001E800F6007F08F700BC1F13290310FF30F4073F
:1001F800F409031CF507F509031CF607F609031CA7
:10020800F707F70913290008F400840A0008F50025
:10021800840A0008F600840A0008F7008C2884087D
:10022800031900347708800084037608800084036B
:100238007508800084037408800000348301240852
:10024800A5002308A4002208A300A2012608F8009C
:100258002708F9002808FA002908FB002208F400FA
:100268002308F5002408F6002508F7000A128A1169
:100278008B200A128A117408AE007508AF00760840
:10028800B0007708B1000530F4000310AE0DAF0DD3
:10029800B00DB10DF40B49292F08F5002E08F40014
:1002A80008008E30831603139F00813083129F004D
:1002B8002830A10000000000A10B5E291F151F199E
:1002C80063291E08AA00AB01AC01AD012C08AD00E2
:1002D8002B08AC002A08AB00AA0183161E080313DA
:1002E8008312B200B301B401B501AA043308AB0408
:1002F8003408AC043508AD041F10080083018701D9
:100308008E3083169F00803083129F000130831641
:1003180086008701073081008C018D0180308B00B9
:100328003030831290000800822155212130AA071D
:1003380001300318AB070318AC070318AD070330E7
:10034800F4000310AA0DAB0DAC0DAD0DF40BA529EF
:100358000310AD0CAC0CAB0CAA0C0330F800F9017F
:10036800FA01FB012A30840083130A128A1107213B
:100378000A128A110530F400031083120313AD0C1E
:10038800AC0CAB0CAA0CF40BC0290530F40003101C
:10039800AA0DAB0DAC0DAD0DF40BCB298E018F0161
:1003A8008316011383122010A0100C100B168B1C3F
:1003B800A01CDB2922210530F4000310B10CB00C7D
:1003C800AF0CAE0CF40BE1290630F4000310AE0DAF
:1003D800AF0DB00DB10DF40BEA292D083102031D44
:1003E800FF292C083002031DFF292B082F02031DAB
:1003F800FF292A082E02031C132A00302D02031D90
:100408000F2A00302C02031D0F2A01302B02031D76
:100418000F2A5F302A020318132A201C162A0713F2
:100428008716071631082D02031D242A30082C02CE
:10043800031D242A2F082B02031D242A2E082A0212
:100448000318392A00302D02031D342A00302C02EB
:10045800031D342A01302B02031D342A5E302A0280
:100468000318392A87120712071731082D06031DAA
:10047800472A30082C06031D472A2F082B06031D80
:10048800472A2E082A06031D9929071387120716DB
:1004980099298301B2000430B300FA30A1000000AA
:1004A8000000A10B532A6400B30B512AB20B4F2A48
:1004B80008008301B2000430B300FA304D22640012
:1004C800B30B612AB20B5F2A080083013308B2001C
:1004D800752AB203FD30A10000000000A10B702AAC
:1004E80064000130320203186D2A3208A1000000AE
:1004F8000000A10B7B2A080004308301B200FA3007
:10050800A10000000000A10B852A6400B20B832A19
:10051800FF30B207031CB303330832040319080081
:10052800802A8301B2000430B300FA30A100000031
:100538000000A10B9B2AB30B992AB20B972A08003B
:02400E00723D01
:00000001FF
I don't want to build any PCB for anyone, my price would be 300$ if you force me to. So I think you better DIY... it a lot of fun! Remember not to breathe the fumes!
-
Hi,
I'm thinking of designing my own VNT controller. I was considering a rotary actuator with belden cables to the vane arm.
I can get an actuator with built in position pot for feedback.
What are you monitoring for VNT control?
I was considering a pot on the accelerator pedal for throttle position
A piezo pressure sensor for boost?
Do I need to account for revs as well - I can take a signal from the tacho if required.
-
uuuuuu
I like :D
you measure IQ, pedal position and ActualBoost and generate a PWM signal to get to DesiredBoost right?
if you wish send me the files and I'll put them on my personal FTP where they can be linked to this forum without limitations.
-
I have change the PCBs. I built a new version of the boost controler for tdi today and it's a little bit better.
An expensive part (10$) has been removed and the pressure captor is also better ... up to 36psi instead of 29psi.
The code and part list have been updated.
-
I have an electronic injector on my IDI (off a Ford Mondeo TD), this controller would work just fine on my setup controlling a VNT right?
-
Yes... it should work.. be sure to have a rising edge when fuel is injected... if it doesn't work, just invert the wires at the injector.
-
I have a few questions on the part descriptions
MPXPAUL = ???? actual part number
I know it is a motorola MPX series, and dual port but I can't figure out the pressure rating from the supplied part number.
also IC3 PIC16876P = ???
Again, it is a pic chip, but what is the actual part number?
I know they come in PIC16F**** and PIC16C***
I can find these PIC16F876 or PIC16F876A but that is as close as I can get.
Thanks for your help and for sharing this.
-
I have a few questions on the part descriptions
MPXPAUL = ???? actual part number
I know it is a motorola MPX series, and dual port but I can't figure out the pressure rating from the supplied part number.
also IC3 PIC16876P = ???
Again, it is a pic chip, but what is the actual part number?
I know they come in PIC16F**** and PIC16C***
I can find these PIC16F876 or PIC16F876A but that is as close as I can get.
Thanks for your help and for sharing this.
Thanks for asking.. because I didn't know that there where some mistakes on the part list. It was regerated automatically by the software and I some of the names where changed by me or the software. I will make the corrections.
the correct part # are:
PIC 16F876 or 16F876A is ok.
MPX4250A (last version between 2.9psi and 36psi) (PAUL is my name!!)
-
nice classic design on the input comparator for the 3rd injector :wink:
there's room for a lot of improvement on the controller, but the basic is all there :)
-
feel free to improve it if you like!
-
How much we talking to write the IDI code? Would this programmer work: http://www.k9spud.com/jdm/ (the above mentioned links for programmers are either dead or outside the US.)
VERY interested. I'm picking up the parts this week.
-
This is a really cool thread, Nice one for putting in all the work! ;D
May be interested in trying this for my AAZ 1749 Project, little daunted by building my own circuit boards tho! ???
-
This is a really cool thread, Nice one for putting in all the work! ;D
May be interested in trying this for my AAZ 1749 Project, little daunted by building my own circuit boards tho! ???
It's easy!
If I can do it, anyone can.
thankfully, my local electronics supply house carrys just about EVERYTHING needed.
-
Excellent work, ;D
Could I possibly get the schematic file of the TD circuit? I use ARES and ISIS as my design package but have access to others.
I would like to modify the circuit slightly for different sampling and control with maybe a tacho driver as well.
I have access to a PIC devolopment system but have no experience of HEX code, can you give me an idea of how your program works? does it contain a simple map?
Thank you.
-
Getting everything together for this sometime this week.
Which PIC programmer is everyone using? - Need something easily attainable in the US; the rest of the parts are easily found.
-
You can buy a pic programmer from the internet. You can also buy one that can reprogramm eeprom... if you ever think playing with TDi ECU, and make your own chip.
You are going to build one for idi?? What variable resistor are you going to use for the throttle pedal??
-
You can buy a pic programmer from the internet. You can also buy one that can reprogramm eeprom... if you ever think playing with TDi ECU, and make your own chip.
You are going to build one for idi?? What variable resistor are you going to use for the throttle pedal??
It's tough finding a usable, cheap programmer - hopefully one with a usb port.
IDI with a GT2256VNT. Variable resister mounted on the top of the ip, as you described earlier. Giles is also a Bosch supplier if I remember correctly, so when I order my IP and injectors - he should be able to take care of that.
I'm going a little different route with the PCB. I'll print the transfers on some transfer paper and iron it on and then etch. I have plenty of regular copper-clad PCB blanks, and the prototyping board is a little pricey.
You have any pics of your vac. setup on the manifold?
-
Links for the PCB traces are down.
what type of file are they? I would recommend a different hosting site.
-
I have an electronic injector on my IDI (off a Ford Mondeo TD), this controller would work just fine on my setup controlling a VNT right?
You mean electronic actuator? I am working on a project like this right now : http://superturbodiesel.com/std/garrett-vnt-hella-actuator-t-614.html
-
Hey,
on instructables there is a DIY for turning a laserjet printer into a PC board printer. It would save you the cost on caustic chemicals and all those wonderful smells associated with making your own boards.
http://www.instructables.com/id/5pcb/
-
I am also interested in this controller. Have a stupid question: Where do you get vacuum from? From brakes vacuum pump?
Quote from: "gigaz2 "
you measure IQ, pedal position and ActualBoost and generate a PWM signal to get to DesiredBoost right?
What is IQ?
-
Yes vacuum to control the Turbo is from the vacuum pump mounted on the engine
IQ stands for "Injection quantity"
-
How do you measure IQ?
-
On the "TDI" the third injector has a sensor built into it.
-
So how would we measure the IQ on TD engine? Any injector mod? or using TDI injector?
-
Hey,
on instructables there is a DIY for turning a laserjet printer into a PC board printer. It would save you the cost on caustic chemicals and all those wonderful smells associated with making your own boards.
http://www.instructables.com/id/5pcb/
you are still required to etch the board. They use ferric chloride, as listed on the front page.
-
easily in the top 5 most amazing and impressive threads i've seen on not only this forum but all of the internets.
hats off to you dude.
-
Hey,
on instructables there is a DIY for turning a laserjet printer into a PC board printer. It would save you the cost on caustic chemicals and all those wonderful smells associated with making your own boards.
http://www.instructables.com/id/5pcb/
you are still required to etch the board. They use ferric chloride, as listed on the front page.
Honestly I have never made my own board, and didn't really read it. I just saw it on my instructables email and thought it would be right up Hey's alley.
-
Excellent work, ;D
Could I possibly get the schematic file of the TD circuit? I use ARES and ISIS as my design package but have access to others.
I would like to modify the circuit slightly for different sampling and control with maybe a tacho driver as well.
I have access to a PIC devolopment system but have no experience of HEX code, can you give me an idea of how your program works? does it contain a simple map?
Thank you.
Hi,
I've roughed out a basic schematic for a TD controller, am hoping to drive a tacho but with bargraph for VNT position and a digital boost display.
I've downloaded MPLAB and disassembled your code (to no avail) I'm not intending to market anything, and any developments made on a TD version will be documented and freely distributed on this site and others. Any help you can offer regards reverse engineering would be excellent.
Yes Badboy - I'll make you one too!
-
how about an Arduino based controller?
I've just learned of this PIC replacement, and it's an all-in-one kit, I bet we could make it so no PCB's would have to be etched!
-
how about an Arduino based controller?
I've just learned of this PIC replacement, and it's an all-in-one kit, I bet we could make it so no PCB's would have to be etched!
An Arduino should more than do the trick. It might be considered overkill, but could also add some very interesting possible features, like a display and laptop connectivity. Change up your software, upload it via laptop and 'reboot' the car and you'd be ready to go. The dev environment is also really easy and that community is huge. Probably lots of help. Not that i've done more than blink a couple LED's with one but it would be a great alternative to a custom built board and offer loads of flexibility.
That said, what Hey is doing is REALLY COOL! I'm very excited about it.
-
Electronic VNT control DIY.
A glass to have the acetate match the board perfectly. VERY higly IMPORTANT.
-
So how would we measure the IQ on TD engine? Any injector mod? or using TDI injector?
Some idi engines had an injector measuring injector lift;
eg Peugeot 406 turbo diesel.
-
Has anyone built one of these recently? :)
-
Thanks for sharing. I might have to give this a try later in the summer. I wonder if a circuit can be drawn
with this conductive paint stuff.
http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/eb92/
-
Im surprised somebody smart doesn't sell kits for these turbos for dummies like me that just want to buy the parts, follow the directions and install. Because I don't understand the techie stuff :)
This is the reason I only have stock junk on my 1.6td, would love to buy a kit to install, then take it down to the exhaust shop to have a custom fit kit made. I hate the t3 turbo in my car :)
-
Im surprised somebody smart doesn't sell kits for these turbos for dummies like me that just want to buy the parts, follow the directions and install. Because I don't understand the techie stuff :)
This is the reason I only have stock junk on my 1.6td, would love to buy a kit to install, then take it down to the exhaust shop to have a custom fit kit made. I hate the t3 turbo in my car :)
Kinda where I am too. I could figure it out with the help of a few people I know, but I'm just not that motivated.
I would however spend money on a pre-figured solution. I'm sure it'll happen eventually.
-
Im surprised somebody smart doesn't sell kits for these turbos for dummies like me that just want to buy the parts, follow the directions and install. Because I don't understand the techie stuff :)
This is the reason I only have stock junk on my 1.6td, would love to buy a kit to install, then take it down to the exhaust shop to have a custom fit kit made. I hate the t3 turbo in my car :)
Kinda where I am too. I could figure it out with the help of a few people I know, but I'm just not that motivated.
I would however spend money on a pre-figured solution. I'm sure it'll happen eventually.
I found some solutions for around $600ish that the early Cummins guys are using - cool but out of my price range. There's a really sweet one I found for about $1300 but it has all kinds of animated displays and things - pretty much the anti of a VW mechanic diesel as far as I'm concerned.
The cheapest / least complicated while still needing fabrication solution is the Aurdrino setup. (sp?) It at least is a common platform so you aren't reliant on the brilliance of one individual who may get bored with it later in the future. Plus it uses mainly factory parts that are obtainable - key for any vehicle you intend to road trip with.
Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2