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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: DieselMonkey on August 30, 2005, 02:14:16 pm
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Guys,
Thought I would post some images of my Golf project, re-spray was completed back in feb, since then its just been a steady job of building the car as i've always wanted a mk3. Minus the roof aerial, spoiler, rear wiper and plastic arch flares.
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/DieselMonkey/mk3project2.jpg)
Motor was a 1.9L D (1Y), since been fitted with a new Garrett GT15, mk3 TDi downpipe, mk3 TDi intercooler, AAZ pump with 1.6 GTD boost pin and adjust. lid :twisted: , 1.6L GTD injectors shimmed to 160 bar, 1Y injector lines (make fuel adjustments v. hard), new 1Y / AAZ crank sprocket and TDi bolt + high strength loctite. 1.6L GTD sump with drainback. EGR system deleted, EGT probe in place. Intake manifold - lower AAZ, top part from 1.6L GTD Golf mk2. New genuine VAG glow plugs, t'belt, tensioner, alt belt, PAS belt. MANN W940/25 and Mobil 1 Delvac 1. Self made boost controller, wastegate actuator bracket and EGT probe plate.
Was started for the first time in 6 months on sat afternoon :) , however, still no 100mm GTi driveshafts (hard to find a good pair) :( .
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/DieselMonkey/f5347f07.jpg)
Is this location for the EGT probe just as accurate as it would be before entering the turbo or is there going to be a considerable difference ?
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/DieselMonkey/EGTprobe22.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/DieselMonkey/6e071b0a.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/DieselMonkey/manifold3.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b137/DieselMonkey/5fb8760f.jpg)
Hope its of some interest. Regards, DM
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Man that's pretty. Nice work.
To regurgitate what I've read, the EGT guage is supposed to go before the turbo to ensure more consistent readings. If that's reasonably accurate, that's an easy way to do it!
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Man that's pretty. Nice work.
To regurgitate what I've read, the EGT guage is supposed to go before the turbo to ensure more consistent readings. If that's reasonably accurate, that's an easy way to do it!
Generally I've read/heard that it is supposed to be about 1" from the exhaust port, but I would think that so long as it is before the turbine it should be fairly accurate.
Here is mine -
(http://www.tdtuning.com/pictures/probe3.jpg)
(http://www.tdtuning.com/pictures/probe1.jpg)
(http://www.tdtuning.com/pictures/probe2.jpg)
I couldn't get it any closer to the port because of the length of the probe. That corner was where the most room was available.
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Perhaps for a more accurate average reading, the probe should be in the centre of the exhaust stream coming from all ports. The difference is probably neglible though.
Your whole car looks super clean!
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Usually #1 has the most cooling issues so the first sign of a problem should come from there. That was my reasoning.
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damn that looks good!
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Thanks for the commnets guys.
vwmike, i was always told that the rear most cylinder from the water pump was the hottest running, most problematic and the first to seize in an over heat situation.
The mk2 GTD i rebuilt, cylinders 2 & 3 where badly scored because the injectors where leaking before i bought it. I also have a 1.6L GTD block in the yard with the piston of cylinder 4 badly melted away, just where the combustion would reach the piston from the pre-chamber, dont know why only this piston melted and the bores where lightly scuffed too. probably injectors again.
It is quite a long probe isnt it. My probe looks to be the same as yours, i got mine from 42 Draft Designs in Maryland.
regards, DM
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I had an aba block with a melted #1 when my intercooler heat soaked (17 psi on 92 octane pump gas can catch up with you on the dyno). I had also heard #1 had the most cooling issues...either way it doesn't really matter. Anywhere in the manifold should probably be close enough and good enough for tuning purposes. My pyrometer is a VDO unit from summitracing.com
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Your engine setup looks a lot like mine 8) but a lot cleaner :shock:
The probe should be in the gasstream so your setup is clean and simple but not ideal.
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abcd
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The input heat is crucial for the turbo, temps above 850/900 deg C for an extended period of time can kill you turbo!
Leaks in the intake or exhaust can be spotted with your ears/fingers so I think pre-turbo is the best spot for the EGT probe ;)
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Don't worry about getting it perfect DM, unless you are racing the car a lot. What you have is (aside from commendable pride of ownership and workmanship!) will work fine for any normal driving. Keep the progress reports coming!
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looking Hot, few questions for my own edumication
what's the advantage of the mk3 TDI downpipe?
How are the 1.6td injectors better than the 1.9?
whats the adjutable lid on the fuel pump, how's that work, where do you get it?
are you going to intercool it? I have a mk3 tdi intercooler on my 93 1.9td and it works quite well
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Guys,
Sorry to reply only now, some reason I didnt receive an e-mail to say the topic had a new reply, but anyway....
Cheesetoast... the mk3 TDI down pipe was needed because the AAZ uses a KKK K03 (inc. several others) that are mounted above or at head level, rather than down the back of the block. It was either use a TDI (mk3) downpipe, or make one to suit.
I'm not sure why the 1.6GTD injectors are better than 1.9L 2 stage ones. They both crack at the same pressure (155 bar), mine are shimmed to 160 bar, but single stage. The 1.6GTD's give better low end power, and the 1.9's better top end power.
The adjustable lid was on the 1.6 GTD's. It allows for adjustment of the boost pin, by adjusting the 'torx' at the top of the lid. Its a pre-load device, so if you screw it down, the boost pin will always be fuelling slightly more up to the point of boost arrival. Without a lot of boost (+1.2 bar),... dont adjust too much, or you're just wasting fuel and creating a lot of smoke. You will get this lid, and the boost pin to match it, from many Bosch VE pumps. Renaults, Peutgoets, Fords, VWs, Audis, etc...
I have one from a 2.1L TD Renault, and the design of the boost pin is quite more extreme than the 1.6L GTD's. I have several boost pins, but only one lid. I could get you a matching lid this weekend if you need, let me know.
I'm using a std. MK3 Golf TDi intercooler, with my own manufactured 316 SS tubing. Should get the pipes made in the next few weeks.
Any pics of your motor ?
Regards, DM
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Hi DieselMonkey,
I live in the UK and have a 94 Vento with AAZ engine. I have managed to get my hands on a G60 Intercooler but am struggling to find somewhere that does or will make up some pipework for it? Where did you get your pipe work from? Have you any pics of the intercooler installed?
Good Luck with the project! It looks excellent :D
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(http://members.shaw.ca/adowler4/tdengine.JPG)
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Thanks for the pic Cheesetoast. The problem I have got with the G60 intercooler is that is more square/box shaped and there isn't the room like there is for a flat one. May have to rethink my ideas and plans. Will stick a pic on if I can get one.
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Vento,
I cant remember what a G60 intercooler looks like, but the standard mk3 TDi intercooler is behind the front bumper to the lower right, if looking straight on (on battery side).
Its not a bad intercooler, but not ideal. If i had the money, i would have had a custom one manufactured to go in front of the radiator. There is room for 2 different designs, but both would require custom pipe work.
If you can, post an image of the G60 intercooler. You might be able to use 1.9TDi piping or 1.6GTD pipes.
I personally prefer to buy stainless bends and straight pipe and weld it up myself. I dont own a Tig welder, but we have an excellent one in work that i use regularly for this sort of thing. You would be better having a custom set made to fit. An exhaust fabrication shop could do it also. Forget about getting it bent, those mandrel bending guys charge crazy money, in my part of the world anyway.
regards, DM
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Cheesetoast,
You've got a similar set up to mine I can see.
Did you buy the car like this, or build it yourself ?
I can see it has a K03, TDi intercooler and fabricated pipes, a boost controller which looks to be situated in the cabin, or somewhere around the firewall, the TDi alternator and tensioning system (dont think the mk3 1Y and AAZ engines had this setup), and a pump that i'm not really sure about (well; it is a 1994 - 1995 Bosch VE). Is it from a Peugeot ? never seen one quite like it before.
Is that part of a wastegate actuator custom fitted to the top lid for some reason ? What function does it carry out ?
Bet it runs like a clock, what numbers do you think its making ?
Regards, DM.
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I bought the car %100 stock, bought the intercooler with all the stock piping (this is important, mainly the piping from intercooler to up by the battery, hard to fabricate). Jsperformance (jsperformance.com) did the intercooler piping, the bracket to the intake manifold had to be changed to 1.6td one to fit correctly. Greddy profec II spec B boost controller on there, works well, going to be installed in my ashtray, but currently in the glove box. Didn't change the altenator or tensioning system, afaik it's stock. The pump is stock as well, not sure what you mean about the wastegate actuator, that on top of the pump where the boost pin goes? stock.
ran a 17.3 quarter at the track, that was with the boost controller adjusted for stock fueling, i forgot i had it set like this, probabyl will run slightly faster now. gtech said 113 torque and 100hp if i rememebr right, i'll have to check up on that.
One problem i have sometimes is if i'm flooring it, near the upper rpm in second or third it will sometimes have a hesitation, like you let off the gas or fuelign isn't getting through, does it for a second or so. keep it floored and it recovers, doesnt' make any weird noises, just loses some power for a second.
Cheesetoast,
You've got a similar set up to mine I can see.
Did you buy the car like this, or build it yourself ?
I can see it has a K03, TDi intercooler and fabricated pipes, a boost controller which looks to be situated in the cabin, or somewhere around the firewall, the TDi alternator and tensioning system (dont think the mk3 1Y and AAZ engines had this setup), and a pump that i'm not really sure about (well; it is a 1994 - 1995 Bosch VE). Is it from a Peugeot ? never seen one quite like it before.
Is that part of a wastegate actuator custom fitted to the top lid for some reason ? What function does it carry out ?
Bet it runs like a clock, what numbers do you think its making ?
Regards, DM.
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Cheesetoast,
I dont know if VW built Golf mk3's in the Belgium factory but maybe that has somthing to do with the pump. I've seen a lot of 1.9TD's and never come across that actuator device as bolted to the top lid of your pump (has a light red line running to it, possibly from the vacuum system). (could you tell me what its connected to, or appears to do?)
100 hp is good. How did you get to this figure ? Is it a stock AAZ motor with TDi intercooler and the Greddy boost controller ? Any extra fuelling ? What is smoke like ? peak boost pressure ?
That hesitation could be a few things. Slipping clutch (v. doubtful) but possibly a copper washer seal area drawing air, maybe a small leak back at the fuel filter (the plastic T peice - o ring - in the return line), lack of fuel, dirty fuel filter etc.... could even be a problem with the transfer (lift) pump in the injection pump.
I visited your website. A lot of good info there. Could you PM the part numbers for your front / rear bumpers and side markers some time if you get a chance and are able too. I'm thinking of fitting these, its a nice change to our Mk'3, i'd really appreciate it.
If you need a better boost pin (than stock AAZ) and, or, adjustable lid, I could get one sorted out for you.
Regards, DM
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Cheesetoast,
I think i know what the actuator on the top of the pump is for.
I'm pretty sure it automatically increases fuelling if the air con is switched on at idle, so it will stay at 1000 rpm. Its been a long time since i've seen a 1.9L IDI TD with aircon ! 8)
DM
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Fueling screw is turned up a bit, i get smoke if i bog it and floor it, otherwise i don't see any. Boost is 21psi peak.
Clutch isn't slipping, it's a brand new gti 8v clutch with 16v pressure plate and lightened 16v flywheel.
I recently replaced the plastic peice ontop of the fuel filter, washer as well. i had bubbles in the lines, they have since disappeared, new filter too.
Car has 260,000km on it so maybe the pump is getting a bit tired.
going to put the 1.6 gtd injector nozzles in, i'll let u guys know how that goes.
My front/rear bumpers are OEM smooth top, i sanded the tops with 400 grit and used truck bed liner to get the textured look, matches very well with the stock textured side molding.
Glad you can get some info from my site, i used to have my full car specs, but since it was stolen, i removed all that for security.
Already got the better boost pin, thx.
Cheesetoast,
I dont know if VW built Golf mk3's in the Belgium factory but maybe that has somthing to do with the pump. I've seen a lot of 1.9TD's and never come across that actuator device as bolted to the top lid of your pump (has a light red line running to it, possibly from the vacuum system). (could you tell me what its connected to, or appears to do?)
100 hp is good. How did you get to this figure ? Is it a stock AAZ motor with TDi intercooler and the Greddy boost controller ? Any extra fuelling ? What is smoke like ? peak boost pressure ?
That hesitation could be a few things. Slipping clutch (v. doubtful) but possibly a copper washer seal area drawing air, maybe a small leak back at the fuel filter (the plastic T peice - o ring - in the return line), lack of fuel, dirty fuel filter etc.... could even be a problem with the transfer (lift) pump in the injection pump.
I visited your website. A lot of good info there. Could you PM the part numbers for your front / rear bumpers and side markers some time if you get a chance and are able too. I'm thinking of fitting these, its a nice change to our Mk'3, i'd really appreciate it.
If you need a better boost pin (than stock AAZ) and, or, adjustable lid, I could get one sorted out for you.
Regards, DM
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A turbo wont run over speed if the wastegate is stuck open, and the only leak that could cause excessive temperatures would be an intake leak of charged air. To little air charge, not enought O2 to burn all the fuel and as a result, smoke and high exhaust temperatures.
Its unlikely that the VDO pyro will give quick enough results to make a difference anyway. There is a quicker reacting one, but the probe is known to fail much sooner.
DM