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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: kane66 on March 30, 2009, 09:57:40 pm
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So this weekend I will be swapping an engine out of a 1986 into a 1991 jetta, and I'm just wondering what tools I will need to accomplish this project.
Heres what I have.
A basic Stanley tool set, the largest socket being a 19mm deep well, but no 18 mm
two jacks
a set of jack stands
a 8mm 12point bit.
The Bentley Manual
anything else I will need. Anything that would make my life easier (that isn't going to cost me a arm and a leg). Im going with the remove the front and roll the engine out on a jack s method. Is this best or would a cherry picker be easier. Any experience would be appreciated as I want to get this done as quickly and painlessly as possible. Thanks in advance.
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You are missing the obvious....
A selection of hammers
A few random bits of wood
Beer.
:D
I've done motor swaps on my own, on the drive before. The way to do it is with a jack and taking the car off the engine.
Must buy an engine hoist one day....
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Of course the cherry picker makes it easier ! :) but it isn't too terrible without one. I called a neighbor for help and just unbolted the subframe to drop engine trans and subframe at once.
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I don't think I'd ever try and put an engine back in without an engine hoist. I've taken them out that way, but it's 1000 times easier with the hoist. Try and borrow one, or buy one from princess auto and then return it :lol:
You will need a 18mm socket.
Don't forget new gaskets/o-rings for the coolant flanges because you will need to swap them over as well.
Are you using the clutch that is already on the donor engine? If not, you will need a 12pt 9mm socker. A wrench will work in a pinch. You don't need the clutch alignment tool, you can line it up close enough by eye.
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only 4 things:
torch[to cut it all out]
2x4 [to yank it out]
welder[to attach it all back]
beer[ to high 5 yourself]
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i'd second the engine hoist making life a lot easier (especially since i was pulling the engine uphill after removal). I picked one up at harbor freight for about $100...but we have one right down the street.
Here are a few pics of removing mine after cutting out the front of the vehicle...this was a junker body, so I took a sawzall to the front support.
Before:
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/cmgreasecar/Caddy%20Project/IMG_0925-1.jpg)
After Pulling engine & trans:
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/cmgreasecar/Caddy%20Project/IMG_0927-1.jpg)
Waiting for install:
(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/cmgreasecar/Caddy%20Project/IMG_0928-1.jpg)
I had one of the inner cv joints stick to the trans and got destroyed during removal. So I ended up needing a 30mm deep impact socket for get the drive axles installed (as well as the 8mm 12pt & torque wrench). But like others have mentioned, when i installed the engine, i jacked up the front of the vehicle, slid the engine under, and then jaced the engine up into place.
...now if i could only get the exhaust and brakes done, i might actually have a running rabbit...
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.(http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj246/cmgreasecar/Caddy%20Project/IMG_0928-1.jpg)
I had one of the inner cv joints stick to the trans and got destroyed during removal. So I ended up needing a 30mm deep impact socket for get the drive axles installed (as well as the 8mm 12pt & torque wrench). But like others have mentioned, when i installed the engine, i jacked up the front of the vehicle, slid the engine under, and then jaced the engine up into place.
...now if i could only get the exhaust and brakes done, i might actually have a running rabbit...
Are those your Y-2-K gas cans? :-D I remember those days. I still have several extra propaine bottles my ex-wife insisted on.
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Are those your Y-2-K gas cans? :-D I remember those days. I still have several extra propaine bottles my ex-wife insisted on.
No, filled with vegetable oil (for converted 300cd)...i'd think that gas sitting for 9 years might not be in the best shape now.
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Yes, I would not risk it w/o a cherry picker. You risk not only damaging the engine, but also yourself. You'll also find a 1m pipe that is just big enough to fit over the end of your ratchet handle you use for the sockets. Does Stanly have a guarantee like Sears Craftsman? ;-)
Also, how many miles are on the engine's timing belt? Its a bit easier to R&R the belt and idler pulley when its sitting on the ground. If you don't know, change them. If they break, you'll break some metal when the piston slams into the valves.
( I didn't think you'd have the same gas for more than a year, but the reason for so many cans.)