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Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: truckinwagen on March 28, 2009, 05:50:12 pm
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I just scored a buttload of parts from a guy getting rid of his diesel collection.
I got a bunch of water and oil pumps( I mean a bunch!) three blocks(two 1.6 and one 1.5) two spare cranks, a bunch of heads, two injection pumps, the list goes on and on.
my question is that the 1.5 block and the two spare cranks(no idea what they are from) have a strange sprocket end to them. the end of the cranks that the timing pulley would attach to look like the end of a intermediate shaft.
are all the 1.5 cranks like this(which would mean that the two extra cranks are 1.5)?
and what kind of timing pulley will fit on it?
it looks like a far superior way to mount a pulley compared to the 1.6 and even the TDI, but the pulley to stick on it might be an issue.
any ideas?
-Owen
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Early 1,6 had that crank end too, used one in my 1,7td. I like it better too.
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so where would I get a crank pulley to fit the crank?
I think if I can find the pulley I will use the crank with the different end as it looks like a much better setup.
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Ummm... What kind of failures? I havenīt heard any, but have seen/heard gazillion newer crank failures. Of course there is much more newer style cranks...
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I would say that the old style crank nose(like an intermediate shaft or gasser camshaft) would be far superior because it does not rely on the clamping force of the bolt to keep the pulley on the shaft.
because the pulley actually sleeves on the shaft and is held with a real woodruff key the bolt should only need 20 or so foot pounds of torque as all it needs to do is keep the pulley from sliding off the shaft.
anyway, I will see if I can find a pulley to fit the shaft and report back as to how strong it seems to be.
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regardless of the argument about its relative strength, I would like to try out one of these cranks for a project of mine, where can I find a pulley to fit one, or are they one of those parts that does not exist any more?
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thanks for the link, sweet site.
there is no info on the page you listed, and the crank pulleys I found on that site were unclear about if they were for a diesel or gas car, any idea on confirmation that that is a diesel part?
(not to be a jerk or anything, just wanted to make sure)
thanks again for the help,
-Owen
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cool thanks!
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The newer 1.6 style rarely fails unless the serpentine belt setup is used with it.
I've seen 1.6, 2 TDs with the crank key stripped out.
The newer style crank nose does make it easier to upgrade to the "D" sprocket.
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Ummm... What kind of failures?
Still intrested...
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I dont have any experience with the early style crank, but plenty with woodruff keyed sleeved shaft/pulley connections.
the only failure I have seen was either because there was excessive slop in the fit between the pulley and shaft, or there was so much force put on the connection that the shaft sheared.
I am hoping that the early style crank proves robust, but we will see after I install a G60 supercharger with a serp belt and a AC compressor along with the alt and WP on my new motor.
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on my 81 rabbit with ac and 11 mm head (meaning it has the early crank nose) i don't know what happened, but somehow the crank sprocket bolt loosened, either the woodruff key and channel for it loosened up and this is what loosened the crank bolt, or the loose bolt runined the key and channel. either way a new crank sprocket and key fixed it, the cranks keychannel wasn't too badly ruined, so a little jb weld was added, its half assed but it's been fine for almost a year now.
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yeah, if the key channels are tight and the fit between the pulley and shaft are good, I see no reason for this to fail at all.
now all I have to do is find out if my two spare cranks are 1.5 or 1.6 any one know what the distinguishing numbers are?
I am thinking about running the 1.5 crank with 1.6 rods and 1.9 pistons in a 1.6 block sleeved for 1.9 pistons.
this would theoretically rev better(due to the shorter stroke) and put me right back at 1600cc.
if the cranks end up being early 1.6 ones I will do the same to run a 1.7, but I think the 1.5 would be cooler(because I don't know of anyone who has done it)
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I just did an ETKA search and found this for the 1.5L diesel crank pulley part number:
028105263E
I searched the website you gave me and found a part listed under that number for $40 and one without the E suffix for $18, any idea what the difference is?
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thanks, I will try the one you linked.
I have little confidence in my ability to find part numbers properly, and at $15 it wont be too much of a waste if it tuns out to be the wrong part.
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well, I have two early 1.6 shortblocks which should have the crank sprocket I need, but I will know better after I get the damn things loose(impact had little effect)
so my possibilities are this, run the 1.5 crank with 1.9 pistons and rods(shave the piston top or get thicker gasket to make up for the 1.6mm that the pistons will stick up past the deck) and end up with a short stroke 1.6L
or run the 1.6 crank with 1.9 pistons and modify the 1.6 rods to accommodate the larger piston pin(don't really want to do this, I don't think the pin bushing really has enough meat to it to do this) and end up with a 1.7L motor.
the 1.6L variation is tempting because it would rev better, and the rod situation seems easier to deal with( I would rather take some off the top of the piston than ream the pin bushing out 2mm)
what do you guys think?
-Owen
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yeah, I would be re coating the pistons anyway(as the ones I am getting are older ones) and I would rather cut the pistons down than ream out the pin bushing 2mm.
but I will strip a block and mock up a few different setups to see what works best.
yeah, a short stroke 1.6 with long rods sounds like fun for revving the hell out of!