VWDiesel.net The IDI, TDI, and mTDI source.
Engine Specific Info and Questions => IDI Engine => Topic started by: davidmccasland on March 19, 2009, 03:26:21 pm
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on VWdiesel.com i found a turbo kit for $400, i was curious if i could just put this on my car and tune up the pump a little bit to match the air increase, or would i have to get new pistons sleeves head studs injectors and all that other expensive stuff?
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I have a NA that came in my rabbit stock. I have a TD that im rebuilding for install for next fall after summer. I put the td's intake and exh. mani on, oil pan(for the oil return line off turbo) and the oil filter housing(for turbo oil feed line). It runs like a champ. I then turned up the IP a little and turned down the idle and it runs great. More power and mpg.
I also installed a boost gauge(running 8-10 psi) thought it would be safe to keep there since i dont want to do a head gasket on this engine and i also dont want to install a heavier clutch. Thats for the actual TD. Internals are fine as long as your egt don't go past 1200. Then melty mashy. I have an egt but it read extremly low but that could be because i still have to put on the 3" exhaust, but even then it should be pretty free flowing.
Hope this helps--Cheers
Kane
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hey thanks alot i am actually in the process of buying this car tomorrow i'm really excited, if everything works out i would like to be able to get the hp to 100 do you have any idea what you have going?
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well stock is i believe around 52 hp for the NA and around 70ft lbs of torque, TD is around 72-74- hp and around 100 ft lbs of torque i believe. Im probably a little shy of the stock TD because my IP isn't the TD IP and im lacking the boost enrichment device. MY car right now isn't for power, just to drive for the summer. My new TD will be pushing 120-130 HP im pushing. My plan on the new engine it.
-Rebuilt engine with port&polished head(might go to a 1.9 head been thinking latley) will have arp head stups might do rod studs as well
-Ported and polish intake mani.
-Intercooler
-3" exhaust straight pipe turbo back
-IP new seal kit and some slight modes
-bigger injectors
-bigger intake(already done)
-heftier clutch
-plan on pushing around 20 psi after break in.
These engine can take quite abit. I wouldn't suggest running alot of boost out of your NA unless you have a good or new head gasket and arp head studs or you might run into HG issues. Have free flowing exhaust to get your egt's and down. Don't run it like its stolen all the time and you should be fine to get up to 80-95 horse out of an NA and be fine as a daily.
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well stock is i believe around 52 hp for the NA and around 70ft lbs of torque, TD is around 72-74- hp and around 100 ft lbs of torque i believe.
Don't run it like its stolen all the time and you should be fine to get up to 80-95 horse out of an NA and be fine as a daily.
if a stock TD with LDA pushes out 72-74 hp, how will he reach 85-90 hp on an engine that doesn't have and LDA? without the the fuel enrichment the engine won't have adequate fueling to reach those numbers. It will have more power and better efficiency than a stock N/a but not more than a TD and not 90 hp :(
Unless i misread the post by far and missed that he said he was getting a "super pump"?
None-the-less yes the N/a engine will handle a turbo and even high boost numbers with a metal hg and studs. You gotta keep the heat down though :) But if your looking to run stock boost (10-11 psi) you should be good with a moderate jump in fueling.
so in to put it bluntly.. Yes you can buy that and slap it on! it will greatly increase the performance and economy of your n/a engine :) goodluck!
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right you are, i was meaning the block and head itself should be fine to run upwards of 90hp with out issues. Forgot to write in he will need a pump with LDA.
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right you are, i was meaning the block and head itself should be fine to run upwards of 90hp with out issues. Forgot to write in he will need a pump with LDA.
LOL it alll makes sense now :) Sorry bout that, we are both right :P
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NA pumps can produce the same power.
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NA pumps can produce the same power.
doesnt the fuel screw have to be all the way in? meaning until you made boost, you'd smoke like a bugger?
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it could do it but wouldn't be nearly as effiecent as a pump with the LDA.
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i was told that LDA pumps dont put out anymore fuel than a N/A pump with the fuel pin taken out and the fuel screw turned up. they are the same internals pretty much, from what i understand. and it makes sense. cause the LDA just limits the fuel when there is no boost. so you dont get the black smoke off idle and at low speeds like i do.
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i was told that LDA pumps dont put out anymore fuel than a N/A pump with the fuel pin taken out and the fuel screw turned up. they are the same internals pretty much, from what i understand. and it makes sense. cause the LDA just limits the fuel when there is no boost. so you dont get the black smoke off idle and at low speeds like i do.
that's true.. the LDA works in an automatic way of turning the fuel screw per say. It sees boost then raises fuel. On an n/a pump with the fuel up for good boost power, you'd have dick all before u made boost tho :( lol
They are the same internals as the heads with and without the LDA can be swapped from what I have read. meaning they have the ability to match each other in fuel pumping ability.
You can run an N/a pump and make yourself a very economical little car, or you can use the TD pump, make some good power and peddle your mileage away with your new found awesomeness :P
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hey if i dont have a radiator cap do i just fill the overflow tank with coolant and have it drain in?
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hey if i dont have a radiator cap do i just fill the overflow tank with coolant and have it drain in?
yes sir, that its theoretically your "rad cap" lol Im not sure if all diesels came with separate over flow tanks.. or just mk2's... i dunno. lol but yes. put it in the over flow tank.
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ive never seen a diesel without an overflow tank. i do own a radiator with an actual radiator cap tho, and it doesnt have a hook up for an overflow tank. but i love the overflow tank, easy way to glance down and see if you have coolant or not.
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hey if i dont have a radiator cap do i just fill the overflow tank with coolant and have it drain in?
I usually try to leave the cap off to make sure the air works its way out. Vince explained his method of taking the upper hose off and filling the engine through the hose, but I have always just filled the tank and let it run with no cap for a while.
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thats what i do too. just keep the tank full until it quits using coolant and bubbling..
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Vince explained his method of taking the upper hose off and filling the engine through the hose, but I have always just filled the tank and let it run with no cap for a while.
I like VW designs... for the most part... but having to disconnect the water pump and remove the power steering to get to a t-stat leak that you don't know if you've fixed until you bolt it all back together is nuts... as is the Dance of the Burping.
WRT to the Dance of the Burping, in case I've confused someone, my technique is to fill the *rad* with the upper hose... the idea being that it's not going to fill as easily on its own with the t-stat closed.
Having said that, many many people do just fine following the Bentley... fill it thru the coolant tank and keep adding while it runs.
Sigh. :wink: